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Do these have any value?

Karl_B

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I picked up a bucket of tools mainly for a Duro-Chrome ratchet and I would like to see if there is any value in the some of the other items. I'm not the least bit inclined to work with wood, so I really have no clue if these are still tools that someone would use or just scrap.

The first three are some planes. One is a Keen Kutter, shown in the middle of the first picture, and the other two don't seem to have any markings. The wooden handle on the Keen Kutter is split.

The last picture is a couple of braces, one Stanely No. 923 on the right that looks to be usable if you have square bits and one with no manufacturer marks I can find and a chuck that is pretty bad. I'm not sure what it was supposed to grab onto.

I can take more pictures, if needed. I have no use for the planes, but I might try to put more modern chucks on the braces just for the heck of it. It might be handy for drilling pilot holes or as an oversized driver some sort.
 

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Uncle_Charlie

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They would be worth money to somebody. If it comes down to scrap, let me know. I would like to have some old "cordless" tools to learn how to use them.
 
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Karl_B

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There are also two old monkey wrenches I'm on the fence about. I would have to manage to flatten the faces on them, but I could see where I might actually use them if they weren't as mangled.
 

woody 73

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Karl B Hi, It is that old saying Condition, Condition, Condition...The Keen kutter is very collectable and prized by many myself included, but most want as near perfect as possible.
 
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Karl_B

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Woody, any idea what dollar value I should expect? I think the blades on all three planes are a bit off, but maybe I just don't know what I'm looking at. I have a dollar figure in my head that would make me happy, but no idea if it's realistic.

Assuming the blade is questionable and noting the split handle, what should the Keen Kutter be priced at? I would assume the others would be worth maybe half of that and then I would be able to decide what to do with these old tools.
 

PBCampbell

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You might consider parting the Keen Kutter out. I'd check out a couple woodworking forums to see if there's any interest. The other stuff I'd drop off at a goodwill type place if you don't know of anyone personally that would be interested in them.
 

rsanter

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They are worth something but not much
The planes are not old enough to be collectible but there are guys like me that still use them and buy them to use.

The braces are more of a collector item and are worth between $10 and $25 depending on how much someone wants one

Bob
 
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Karl_B

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I searched for some more info on the planes, but I'm coming up empty. I can't find model numbers or anything that will help. Maybe I should try $20 for the Keen Kutter, $5 for the tiny one, and $10 each for the other plane and braces?

Measuring at the longest points, I come with 10"x2.5" on the Keen Kutter, 9.5"x2.25" on the similar one, and 3.5"x1.25" on the tiny one. I think I might keep that one as decoration or a small paper weight.
 
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Karl_B

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It would seem that the tiny plane it most likely a Stanely 101. I really should stop researching these things. The more I learn, the more I want to keep them, even though I know I would never use them.
 

GarageWarrior

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I'd bring them to a local auction house and sell for whatever they sell for.

May not be much, but better than scrap. May be $20-$30 for the whole lot. Every auction I go to has a bunch of rusted old tools and they sell well - you don't get top dollars, but better than trying to **** around with ebay and shipping.
 
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Karl_B

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The unmarked one has the dimensions and look of the Stanley #4, but no marks to identify it. I assume it's some sort of copy.
 

exmaxima1

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I picked up a bucket of tools mainly for a Duro-Chrome ratchet and I would like to see if there is any value in the some of the other items. I'm not the least bit inclined to work with wood, so I really have no clue if these are still tools that someone would use or just scrap.

I used to do quite a bit of cabinet and furniture making, and have quite a few hand planes that I use. Mostly old Stanley and similar spanning from around 1880 to 1930, and all have been kept in good condition. I wouldn't even touch the planes you have, as they are all rusty and cruddy.

If you spend a few hours cleaning them, sharpening, painting, and truing up the soles you might find an interested buyer. But doubtful you 'd get more than $25 for the lot even after all your effort.
 
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PBCampbell

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10" x 2.5" puts that about a Stanley 5 1/2 which is a desirable size for a smoothing plane. The other one has a Miller's Falls look about it (as well as dimensions) but possibly their economy line if the cap doesn't have their stamp.
 
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Karl_B

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I found some markings on the one plane. No idea if that U in a circle is a logo or what, but at least I know it was made in the US.
 

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Karl_B

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The Union planes I looked up look pretty close. Now if I could identify that last brace, I would at least have my curiosity satisfied.

So the consensus seems to be I have a pile of near worthless tools. Oh well. At least I got a working Duro-Chrome ratchet in the deal, albeit in just as poor condition. I think I just bought a bucket of conversation pieces.
 

PBCampbell

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The brace should be stamped on the long part of the rod between the pad and the handle. Usually a model number on one side and maker on the other. It doesn't have a collector desirable chuck and like your other pieces cosmetics aren't the greatest. 2 jaw chuck? No big money but possibly still functional pieces and there are people who still use this stuff.
 
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Karl_B

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The only stamping I found on that brace was "MADE IN USA" on the last bit of the rod before the chuck. The Stanley one was stamped where you described. This little selection of tools has been a decent distraction and learning experience. Now I know a lot more about braces and planes.
 
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Karl_B

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With a little cleaning and oil, the Stanley brace works pretty well now. Even the ratcheting mechanism is in good shape. That unidentified one turns and ratchets, as well, but the chuck has no hope of holding onto anything. And I'm having way too much fun messing with this stuff.
 

PBCampbell

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That one also reminds me of a Miller's Falls but the "collar" behind the chuck grip seems off. 10" swing on both I presume which was the most usual. The one on the left would be the eldest with what resembles a "Fray" style chuck. I still keep a brace for use with a pipe reamer and I know there are custom furniture makers who use them for specific tasks, particularly Windsor chair makers. I don't think any braces bring really big money but a few are worth some bucks such as (descending order) Miller's Falls Parson's Brace (almost always 10"), North Brothers Yankee (2 model numbers but not any distinction between them, different sizes available but i don't recall any Whimble styles), P.S.&W.(Pexto, Stow, & Wilcox) Samson (great variety of sizes including Whimbles), and Miller's Falls Lion (2 style of chucks, one had a hex to accept a wrench to get it extra tight and a great variety of sizes including Whimbles).
Whimble style braces were longer in the arm between the handle and pad than they were between the handle and chuck. These were used where more muscle was needed for bigger bits. Short swing braces are more desired by chairmakers.
The only other braces I can think of that have monetary worth are the "joist braces" that have the handle perpendicular to the chuck. I've only seen these with "universal" style chucks and I don't believe brand has any bearing on worth. These are very useful though.

These are just the steel ones however. If you stumble across a wood/brass reinforced one then you may be into some serious money.
 
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Karl_B

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This unknown manufacturer's brace is still puzzling me. No markings even after cleaning up the thing. It does have ball bearings in the pad, and that spins nicely after oiling. If I can puzzle out how to remove the chuck, I might be able to put something more useful on it. I suppose it wouldn't hurt anything if I ruined the chuck more. It's not usable anyway. The jaws don't come out, or I could try to find some sort of replacement. They are what is mangled.

The Stanley could be used as is right now, but I have no bits that fit that chuck. It did hold a round file halfway well, but I don't see how that would ever be a good idea.
 

PBCampbell

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The "V" notches were for holding round rods but getting a good grip is difficult. Having tooling with the proper tapered square is best. I haven't had a brace chuck apart in a few years but i recall it being an exploratory process. Is there a large slotted screw head behind the elbow? I have a Miller's Falls with a universal chuck someplace. I'll see if I can dig it out tomorrow and possibly help you out. The only things I recall to watch out for during disassembly were loose ball bearings and one way lock rings (internal circlips without ears).
 
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Karl_B

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No ball bearings that I have seen in the chuck. The outer body with the knurling just turned until it came off. The jaws are inside and held together with a small steel spring rod, keeping them forming a "V" shape. I can't even tell what shape the ends of the jaws started as.

It appears that as you tighten the outer part, the back of the jaws are forced into a round recess and that causes them to close. Where the Stanley had a screw head on the back of the whole thing, this just looks like the fastener is peened over. It's an interesting little puzzle, at least.

I should add that the jaws would probably come out, but part of the damage is that the jaws have been crushed around the spring that holds them together.
 
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PBCampbell

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I stand corrected. I was thinking of the ratcheting mechanism. I couldn't find the brace I was thinking of but took the tightening sleeve off a couple others and the jaws just slip out. I didn't see a way to separate the jaws from their spring so I think this would have come as a complete assembly. I did find a couple links although I'm not sure if they'll provide any help to you. The ones I took apart appear to work this way - the fore part of the jaws is tapered (to a point) and the sleeve is tapered to the front. As you tighten the jaws the sleeve compresses the fore part of the jaws around the drill rod to give hold. A proper brace bit with a tapered square "tang", the tang would be inserted past the forward portion of the jaws. One of these links has clickable highlights with illustrations of some different jaw types. I'm sorry I couldn't provide more help but I'm glad to see that you seem to be enjoying learning about these archaic tools
http://oldtoolheaven.com/brace/FeaturedBraces.htm#Lion
http://www.sydnassloot.com/brace.htm
 
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David Jackson

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I've got an old brace similar to the ones you are talking about. Mine has no markings of any kind, flaking plating (chrome I suppose) and it still works OK. I have about 6 or 7 bits which fit in it. I remember being taught to drill into wood using something similar in woodshop in about 1955 (does that date me?). I guess the only thing mine has going for it is that it is cordless and does not need a battery.
 
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Karl_B

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I'll keep browsing the interwebs until I see something that gives me an idea on how to remove the threaded part of the chuck. I still can't tell exactly how it's attached to the brace body.

For now, I just put that mangled one up on a top shelf. I'll sort out what to do with the other tools eventually. I think I'll focus on cleaning up the monkey wrenches next. It would interesting to see if they have any marks on them.
 
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