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Do they make a tool like this?

expatriated

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(If you saw my other thread, I'm trying to get some very heavy rust out of an old motorcycle tank. I'm making progress but slowly.)

What would really be useful would be something like a long flexible bit/metal hose that a steel wire brush could be attached to the end, preferably in the shape of a ball.

That way, I could attach that to the drill, shove the brush end way down in the tank until it reached the back and pull the trigger. That would make me :bounce:
 
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crewchief888

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NW indiana
i was always told to use the "nut and bolt" method to knock the heavy stuff loose,
then use this stuff

Kreem tank sealer

www.jpcycles.com

PN 720-469


sorry tried to insert the link, but i'm an idiot:tard:

i used it in a new aftermarket tank i put on my bike in '94, not a speck of rust anywhere

:beer:
 

Packard V8

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Or fill it 1/4 full with coarse sand and small rocks. Bolt it to a piece of tubing, chuck the tubing in a big lathe, a BBQ spit, or any other rotisserie you can devise, turn her on, have a few beers and it will be shiny inside.

jack vines
 
OP
E

expatriated

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Ok, I threw a box of drywall screws in there with CLR and got a LOT of it out. but down in the corners, there's still some stuff I'd like to get a brush on. Now, it's full of vinegar, soaking overnight.

Probably not going to find a tank for this thing. It's a 1990 Suzuki VX800. They only imported them for 3 years. The outside of the tank is in pristine condition. The paint looks beautiful. I don't want to do anything that might damage the paint. No way I want to have it repainted.

How does the boiling technique work? Does that damage the paint? I'm unfamiliar with that.

I'm planning on trying out this POR-15. I hear that it is good.
 
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Stuart in MN

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You don't want to boil the tank if you can help it - they drop the whole thing in a tank, and when you get it back besides all the rust, the paint will also be gone.
 

Ditchdigger

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A quart of boiling water and a quart of muriatic acid (under $3 a gallon at home depot). Pour them into the tank and turn it over now and then for 20 to 30 minutes and pour out. You will be left with shiny clean steel ready for whatever sealer you choose. I went with the POR-15 kit and am pleased.
 
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Bruce Lancaster

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Another tech, used for cleaning out in water passages of old engines:

Get a dead speedometer cable and thoroughly fray the end into protruding wires. Cut a sutable length, chuck in drill.

Speedo cables are about the lightest stuff for this and should not damage the good metal. You can move up from here into increasing sizes of cable/wire rope to the limits of your metal and your drill motor.
 

mrholeshot

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78Bird

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I'd fill it with vineagar now that the big crud is out, that should eat the rust out after a few days... Once clean, rinse it REAL well then use some kind of tank sealer kit on it.
 

spongerich

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You can also try electrolysis. Fill the tank with washing soda and water.
Get some long steel rods (rebar works), wrap them in some nylon window screen to prevent the metal from shorting to the tank and hookup a battery charger or other low voltage power supply. It'll electrolytically remove any and all rust inside the tank and won't damage the paint at all. Unlike acid, you can leave it for 6 months and it won't remove any metal.

At that point, you can coat the inside with some epoxy like POR15 or if it's in decent shape, just spray some light oil or even some PB blaster inside to prevent flash rusting until you're ready to fill it with gas.
 
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