Do you need 6 and 12 point sockets?

[signcrafter]

Looking at my options for different socket sets and seeing I really need 6 and 12 point sockets? I can't remember a time recently that it mattered. I have high tooth count ratchets for the most part so getting on a fastener isn't an issue. I know some specialty bolts are 12 point but for the most part most bolts are 6 point. Trying to decide between a few different sets and wondering if one that comes with 6 point is good enough or if a set that has 6 and 12 would be better.

 

[rmsg0040]

I dont own any 12pt sockets, never encountered a 12pt bolt, if I ever do I got regular wrenches or spline ratcheting wrenches at my disposal

 

[Rubiman14]

It's a necessity for me. I build a lot of engines that use 12pt stuff, specifically ARP head studs.

 

[Olafur]

If you have to ask you probably don't need 12 point sockets. I encounter 12 point fasteners inside engines, transmissions etc. Most people never see them. There are exceptions here and there, but few and far between and hardly require every DIY guy to have a full set of 12 points.

 

[CJM8515]

Ford driveshaft bolts..

 

[d.mcfarland]

It's a necessity for me. I build a lot of engines that use 12pt stuff, specifically ARP head studs.

Bingo. Only time I really encounter them. Without them there is no other option unfortunately.

 

[Hammer1963]

I use them. Certain tight situations require them where some hex fasteners are not aligned to where a 6 point socket can be applied. I also run into 12 point bolt and nuts on occasion. It all depends on what you are working with. An example is working under and in the dash or on trunk mounted items on many vehicles just don't play nice with 6 points

 

[mbshop]

Early in my career I had 12 point. But soon found they could not be used very well on rusted or very tight bolt situations. So I got 6 point sockets and basically retired my 12 point stuff. I would start with 6 point and get 12 point as needed.

 

[joop1987]

Only time I needed a 12 pt is on a 2000 Harley Sportster rocker cover bolts.

 

[unslow1]

It's a necessity for me. I build a lot of engines that use 12pt stuff, specifically ARP head studs.

Same here. I also have rust to deal with in IL so 6 pt helps avoid stripping the head.

 

[one9gt]

I use them as I maintain a fleet of mowers, excavators and tractors but only as impact sockets not chrome.


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[theoldwizard1]

I dont own any 12pt sockets, never encountered a 12pt bolt, if I ever do I got regular wrenches or spline ratcheting wrenches at my disposal

After about 50 years of shade tree wrench twisting, I report THE SAME !

 

[Codejack]

I run into a lot of clutch plate and flywheel bolts that are 12-point on Hondas and Nissans. Some axle nuts on newer imports. Various driveline stuff, especially on trucks. Harley motorcycles use a lot of them. VW/Audi/Porsche like them.

 

[Tonyuk]

I use 12 point all the time, unless a bolt looks suspicious or likely to round i'll go for a 12 point chrome, never rounded a bolt with a 12 point socket.

All my impacts are 6 point, they're more readily available and cheaper than 12 point impacts.

 

[steveo3002]

id get the 6 points then buy any 12 points as seperates if they come along

 

[DadsTools]

I usually am working on older stuff with worn and oxidized fasteners. For me, 6-point gives me more confidence while 12-point are sometimes a little quicker to use. But I sort of went about it the opposite way having all 12-point at first and then added 6-point later. If I had to buy tools all over again from scratch, I'd probably get all 6-point from a solid USA mfr like SK, Williams, Proto or Wright and get a mid-range 12-point chrome set in the Gearwrench neighborhood just to have on hand. I'd kind of feel naked without the 12-point only because I used them regularly for so many years. It's that confidence issue again--just comforting knowing they're there.

 

[Empty Pockets]

I have both, my "go to" sockets are always 6 point. I rarely have a situation that requires a 12 point, but I have them just in case.

 

[jgromada]

I think the 12 point are ONLY required for 12 point fasteners which seem to be primarily used inside engines & transmissions. I think using 12 point sockets for 6 point fasteners tends to round them off so I tend to avoid that. I just bought a set of sockets for automotive work and only bought 6 point.

 

[maxpower_hd]

I too occasionally need 12 point sockets for certain situations. But I typically use 6 point since the don't slip off stubborn bolts as easily as the 12 pt.

 

[bobcatdan]

In general I buy chrome in 12 point and impact in 6 point.

 

[Rileysan]

I think the 12 point are ONLY required for 12 point fasteners which seem to be primarily used inside engines & transmissions. I think using 12 point sockets for 6 point fasteners tends to round them off so I tend to avoid that. I just bought a set of sockets for automotive work and only bought 6 point.

Don't believe this for a second. It's a wives' tale.

Outside of misuse, abuse, or using a cheap socket, a 12-pt socket will serve you well. In 35+ years of wrenching (25+ professionally), I have never rounded off the head of a fastener because I used a 12-pt socket.

Secondly, someone else said that all their impact sockets are 6-pt. No kidding?!? I have never heard of, or seen a 12-pt impact socket.

12-pt sockets are not just for 12-pt fasteners. They are also for tight areas where you can only reach with your ratchet and there's no room for you to twist the socket to fit the fastener. If I was told I could only own one set of sockets, it would be a 12-pt set.

Brian

 

[unslow1]

I have Cornwell 12pt impact sockets.

 

[Rubiman14]

Don't believe this for a second. It's a wives' tale.

Outside of misuse, abuse, or using a cheap socket, a 12-pt socket will serve you well. In 35+ years of wrenching (25+ professionally), I have never rounded off the head of a fastener because I used a 12-pt socket.

Secondly, someone else said that all their impact sockets are 6-pt. No kidding?!? I have never heard of, or seen a 12-pt impact socket.

12-pt sockets are not just for 12-pt fasteners. They are also for tight areas where you can only reach with your ratchet and there's no room for you to twist the socket to fit the fastener. If I was told I could only own one set of sockets, it would be a 12-pt set.

Brian

I have a complete set of SO 1/2" 12pt deep impact sockets. They're not cheap, but I got tired of tearing down engines and rear diffs using a ratchet.

When I started out I did exactly what was mentioned, 12pt chrome and 6pt impact. Nothing wrong with that at all! As time goes on, you'll run into scenarios where the wall thickness of an impact socket becomes a problem. Just look at the bright side, that's how you achieve those awesome top drawers full of sockets . I've never ran into an issue with rounding off a hex because I grabbed a 12pt socket.

 

[velillen01]

I don't use them often but have used 12 points. Seems common in engine and transmission work. I have nicer 6 point then just some tekton 12 points which hold up just fine

 

[JohnDeere1]

In 3/8 my 6pt are all snap on and 12pt is Facom that i bought cheap and ive never used them.

 

[Moosefire66]

12 point sockets are also good for a square headed bolt, sometimes found on fences and such

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[67King]

Critical fasteners* when building an engine. That's it. Oh yeah, and BMW spark plugs, which require a special tool, anyway.

* Buts on head studs, main studs, and rod bolts

 

[Dave455]

Well, in the U.K. we call them 'hexagonal' and 'bi-hexagonal'. I know these are big words, but they tell you a lot more about the socket!

Hexagonal have one hexagon, and need to be turned through 60 degrees to re position.

Bi-hexagon have two hexagons superimposed, so you only need to turn the socket through 30 degrees to re engage. Note that they are designed to turn hexagonal fasteners. They had been around for decades before anyone thought of a 12 point fastener!

So what's the point of a bi-hex? Well, when socket spanners / wrenches were first introduced, which was actually in the 19th century (so sorry Snap On, you didn't invent them) ratchets were expensive, and not always very durable, so a lot of turning was done with a Sliding T, Breaker bar, or simply an 'L' handle. With these handles a bi-hex socket makes a lot more sense.

Up till the late 80's, I don't think I'd ever seen a 'modern' hex socket. The only ones around were ancient things. My Dad certainly didn't own any, or my Grandfather. Bi-hex worked fine.

What changed, was the introduction of crappy fasteners using soft metal. In the U.K. I think Ford were the first to start using these. I remember trying to switch a radiator on a Mondeo in the early 90's. The bolts were well crusty and also the new soft ones. I rounded two before admitting defeat and buying some hex sockets.

So, it all depends on what you work on. Modern stuff with ****** fasteners, you're going to need hex. Older stuff, or stuff with decent fasteners, bi hex will do fine. Of course, if you find 12 point fasteners then bi-hex sockets are a must. Personally, I only own hex sockets in metric sizes. If I work on something in AF sizes (to use British terminology, SAE to most here) it's usually a classic British vehicle or an aerospace component and the fasteners are decent. Ditto if I need Whitworth, mostly machine tools with even harder fasteners!

Not that 'bi-hex' is different from 'Tri-square' (the angles of the corners are different) despite both having 12 points) so no, a bi-hex is no good for square nuts. Snap On sell some very nice 'bi-square' sockets for that purpose.

 

[hangfirew8]

Don't believe this for a second. It's a wives' tale.

Outside of misuse, abuse, or using a cheap socket, a 12-pt socket will serve you well. In 35+ years of wrenching (25+ professionally), I have never rounded off the head of a fastener because I used a 12-pt socket.

Ah, another 6-point non-believer, that does not hail from the rust belt.

I have. Many.

Of course the bolts and nuts were rusted-up messes, but I've had 12 points round them off. And even 6 points, when they're really bad. Muffer U-clamps for example. Sometimes they still come apart, for example when I've installed them and the threads have anti-sieze. Or sometimes they don't, when I haven't. But I have to try, before I get the grinder out.

 

[Rubiman14]

Ah, another 6-point non-believer, that does not hail from the rust belt.

I have. Many.

Of course the bolts and nuts were rusted-up messes, but I've had 12 points round them off. And even 6 points, when they're really bad. Muffer U-clamps for example. Sometimes they still come apart, for example when I've installed them and the threads have anti-sieze. Or sometimes they don't, when I haven't. But I have to try, before I get the grinder out.

Been swinging wrenches in the Metro Detroit area since I started. Never had an issue removing a rusty bolt, that could be removed with a socket/ratchet to begin with, when using quality 12pt sockets.

That said, in those cases I do try to grab a 6pt socket. But if it's already on my ratchet I'm still giving it hell

 

[dnschmidt]

You can go to Harbor Freight and their standard length sockets are 12pt and they cost $10 a set and are made in Taiwan and guaranteed for life. You seem to be way over thinking this.

 

[Ratchet.]

Mostly i use 6 point/.. but i have a ton of 12 point stuff.. mainly sae/vintage ones though.

However I do need 3/8" and 1/2" 12 point sockets, as the company whose machinery i fix use 12 point heads on propshaft uj bolts, for reasons known only to them.

 

[HanShotFirst]

I have a mix of both, but that's mostly because I started buying sockets over 30 years ago; back when a 40t ratchets was a "fine tooth" ratchet. 12 point makes less and less sense with today's fine tooth ratchets.

That said, I have no "issue" per-se with 12 point sockets, 99.9% of the time they serve me just as well as 6 points. I just don't much think about, or care about which socket it is until I encounter something really stubborn.

 

[Al Borland]

Bigger nuts/bolts, 6 point isn't all that important, but smaller nuts/bolts, 6 points all the way.
Oh, and on rusty, heat cycled bolts that haven't been turned in 50 years, 6 point with the biggest drive size and longest breaker I can get to fit.

 

[Rileysan]

Ah, another 6-point non-believer, that does not hail from the rust belt.

I have. Many.

Of course the bolts and nuts were rusted-up messes, but I've had 12 points round them off. And even 6 points, when they're really bad. Muffer U-clamps for example. Sometimes they still come apart, for example when I've installed them and the threads have anti-sieze. Or sometimes they don't, when I haven't. But I have to try, before I get the grinder out.

One doesn't have to hail from the rust belt to know how difficult it is to remove exhaust manifold and flange bolts!

This is a good example of when a 6-pt socket might be appropriate (Use the right tool for the job is a great motto), but most of the time a 12-pt socket will work just as well as a 6-pt socket. And I stand my my statement that "using 12-pt sockets will round the heads off hexagonal fasteners" is a wives' tale. As a rule, it just isn't true.


If your budget allows for only one set, I think the advantages of 12-pt sockets outweigh the disadvantages.

Brian

 

[jeejay]

I figure that if there was a demand for both, then most stores would sell both, but they don't. I had a hard time finding 6-point sockets around here, but ended up with those, and 12-point wrenches, which I like as such (wouldn't want to reverse them).

 

[md21722]

Depending on what you're working on you do need 12 point. The Jeeps I work one have several 12 points, and some aftermarket parts come with 12 point fasteners. I have a cheap set of Craftsman 12 points that cover all sizes, and for sizes I use more, I get something better. I have a 13mm 12 point universal impact for hub bolts, for example.

 

[General Geoff]

And I stand my my statement that "using 12-pt sockets will round the heads off hexagonal fasteners" is a wives' tale. As a rule, it just isn't true.

It's only a problem on small (>10mm or 3/8") fasteners that are either made of softer metals like brass or aluminum, OR with small fasteners that have corroded so badly that chunks of the head flake off while turning with a wrench/socket.

Never had or seen an issue with larger fasteners though.

 

[Rileysan]

It's only a problem on small (>10mm or 3/8") fasteners that are either made of softer metals like brass or aluminum, OR with small fasteners that have corroded so badly that chunks of the head flake off while turning with a wrench/socket.

Never had or seen an issue with larger fasteners though.

Excellent point. This makes sense if a high percentage of small fasteners were made of soft metals like brass.

I collect vintage American made socket sets and this would explain why many of my 1/4" drive socket sets only contain a couple of 6-pt sockets (always the smallest sockets in the set) although I have a couple of sets that are an exception; my wartime Snap-on socket set contains all 6-pt & 8-pt sockets. I also have a 70s Craftsman set that is all 6-pt, but I believe that was sold as an option rather than as a standard.

The vast majority of my vintage 3/8" drive socket sets were exclusively 12-pt.

Brian

 

[Codejack]

You can go to Harbor Freight and their standard length sockets are 12pt and they cost $10 a set and are made in Taiwan and guaranteed for life. You seem to be way over thinking this.

That's my plan.