Do you prefer workbenches with a backsplash?

[NewShockerGuy]

I asked in an earlier thread about butcher block tops for my two base cabinets.

Went to ikea last sunday and picked one up.. very pleased with it and very heavy.

I will take a picture when I get home to show you but currently the laminate top is 73" wide and 20" deep. This pretty much shows an overhand of about one inch all the way around the base cabinets which looks fine to me.

The top is only screwed in from the bottom so I can easily remove it here in the next couple days once I decide what I want to do on the butcher block top.

The ikea BB top is 72" wide and 25" deep. So when I put it on the cabinets there is an over hand in the front of about 5 inches. I'm very undecided on how this looks and was thinking about taking my circular saw and cutting off 4" in depth from the back and then attaching that piece vertically onto the workbench top making it have a back splash or looking like this:

I was wondering to those that had a backsplash like that on workbenches do you like it or no? Is it worth doing? The overhand looks a bit odd to me because it hangs off the front too much ... but my wife said if I had a stool it might be better because i could have a little work area being seated and not hit my legs right off the cabinets.. my garage isn't that big to have a workshop like that I was mainly going to use the table to put things on and work on but nothing major... The backsplash might be good so things don't fall behind the cabinet?

Also my thoughts on doing this. Put butcher block good face down. Use the freud 40 tooth finishing blade in my circular saw cut the 4" strip. Drill pilot holes in both and then screw down after putting a bead of wood glue on it. This may sound cheap but I really just don't want to waste any of the butcher block for spending about $140 on wood I'd prefer to use all of it..hahah

But looking at what ya'll think or recommend. This is going to be UP against the back wall of my garage no in an open space or anything like that. The thickness is about 1.5-2" for the entire bb top. So I would be in theory losing an inch of workspace, but I was going to push it back against the wall since the cabinets base piece doesnt' sit flush to the wall.. if that makes sense. IE: Moving the table top back further so it hits the wal IE: 22" in depth compared to 20, and the back splash would make it the same working area as the stock laminent top that is currently on the cabinets..


I will post pictures tonight with what I am talking about to help.

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

[metalmagpie]

A front lip is a good thing. You can clamp to it easily, and you can put things straight down from the front lip without interference from drawer handles, etc. A backsplash needn't be very tall. It's main (essential!) purpose is to keep things from rolling off the back and vanishing forever.

just my two cents worth

metalmagpie

 

[Oldbear]

My back splash is also storage and such. I prefer them so I don't have to crawl under my bench to find that 1/8 bit again...

 

[rharman]

As stated, an overhang on the front (and sides if applicable) is a good thing for clamping. I, personally, prefer a backsplash. Your idea sounds OK to me.

You need to balance the overhang against any obstruction of drawers if you have them. 1" is not much surface to clamp to. I'd want a bit more.

Do you have a table saw? If not, just be careful to get a good straight/square edge when you slice it so the backsplash sits flush and square on the top.

You may just want to use screws. Be real sure before you glue it - no turning back after that.

 

[Old Moparz]

In the garage I added a 4" high strip to keep things from falling behind the bench. In my basement, I am in the planning stages of redoing the work area with a longer bench & cabinets. I'll have a combination of back splashes, one that goes from the bench to the overhead cabinet, & another like the one in the pic below.....

 

[Steevo]

Yes. For all of the above reasons, and then some:

 

[John in OH]

A front lip is a good thing. You can clamp to it easily, and you can put things straight down from the front lip without interference from drawer handles, etc. A backsplash needn't be very tall. It's main (essential!) purpose is to keep things from rolling off the back and vanishing forever.
metalmagpie

+1 to what Metalmagpie said !! I have a simple 1x6 as a backsplash on my main bench.

 

[rockchucker]

Definitely incorporate a Backsplash. The only reason I didn't with my Shop is because the Backsplash will be incorporated into the Stainless Counter Top. As will the Overhang.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I wanted a backsplash becuase I was going to have a white wall right above the bench. I figured it would get dirty as heck.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

As promised here are the pictures. I'm still trying to decide if I want to paint the entire thing white. Or paint the cabinets the same color gray that is behind it to match and blend in with the wall and paint the wood trim around it black? Anyone have any ideas or just leave it as is? The white has no flaws or flakes and is quite bright white, matches the top part of the walls/ceiling.

How it looks now: For being 25 years old it's in remarkably awesome shape, really just the top is worn in places and chipped. The actual cabinet itself is heavy and built.

It came with shelves, but I took them out to move it and air it out:

What it looks like with the stock little over hang:

With the laminant top and butcherblock top on top of it... notice the overhang: Just looks a bit odd to me?

My plan was to move the butcher block back an inch so it sits up against the wall compared to the laminant top and then putting the cut piece of butcher block on top as the backsplash.

Me pretending the cardboard is the back splash. It's about an inch or two taller than it needs to be but that's all I had.

Also question on cutting the butcher block. You can see in some of the pictures there are the pieces that are glued together length wise that forms the seams (it's smooth)... do I want to cut where the two pieces of wood are glued togther or do I want to cut in BETWEEN where two pieces are joined. IE: Cut right at the seam of the two pieces of wood? I figured two things would happen. Cut where the pieces are joined and it would be an easier cut, or that cut would cause the pieces to break and I would then have a sloppy piece of butcher block that is cut and the sloppy jagged backsplash from the same piece that is cut? Is any of this true? If I cut between the pieces together I would really be cutting just one pieces in half if that makes sense...

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

[santagary]

+1 to what Metalmagpie said !! I have a simple 1x6 as a backsplash on my main bench.

How about keeping the overhang and adding a backsplash with another similar piece of wood instead of risking the cutoff. I'm with your wife on this one and keeping the "knee" room.

 

[Steevo]

Keep the front overhang and add a backsplash using a piece of 1x6 hardwood.

 

[santagary]

Keep the front overhang and add a backsplash using a piece of 1x6 hardwood.

As I suggested X 2 Steevo

 

[NUTTSGT]

Keep the front overhang and add a backsplash using a piece of 1x6 hardwood.

I'd agree and becareful with the over hang. Don't be pounding on anything or it might decide to spilt where it's not supported.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Oh wow, so many like the over hang..lol

Dang, it just really looks odd sticking out that much to me? I don't plan on pounding really anything on it as this is going to be more of putting stuff on it and not really a "work" bench that is going to see a beating at all honstly. I have a little wilton 4" and a 1750 but was planning on mounting the smaller vise up on this since the bigger one is in my gun/modding room.

-Nigel

 

[pattenp]

I'm with you on the overhang, a bit too much. As far as cutting the butcher block, it doesn't make any difference where you cut it. Cut it wherever your measurements put the cut.

Edit: I assume you're removing the old top.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Yes sir removing the old top. Only put it on top because it would take too much time removing it and taking pictures then putting the bb top on..etc. I'm going to use the old top as a template for the bb top and then improvise a little bit on how to mount it. I also have to waterlox it as well since that just came in the mail yesterday.

-Nigel

 

[Brad54]

I've got a work counter in the shop that is very similar in design to the gray one you posted the picture of... it's actually a Pitney-Bowes mail room cabinet. Has two doors and a top that is about even with the doors. You can NOT work at it sitting on a stool. It's very annoying.
It has a back-splash on it--I wouldn't ever have a bench or work counter without a back splash--stuff rolls or falls down behind it, and you're screwed.

If it were mine, I'd keep the overhang. And not only would I keep the overhang, I'd put a 2x4 frame between the cabinets and the new top, and mount a power strip to it, under the top. It's much more convenient to have power tools plugged into the front of the bench, than the cord running across the bench to the wall.

For a back-stop, I piece of painted sheetmetal running the length would look nice.

-Brad

 

[5lima30]

Yes, without one I would lose small pieces into the black hole behind the bench!

 

[pendragon1998]

I would add a new piece of wood for the backsplash, but also move the bench forward an inch or two so there is a bit of overhang in the rear (where it will not get pounded on) and a little less overhang in the front (seems like a little too much, currently).

 

[Oldbear]

My back slpash is also a ledge to "collect" **** - until the real storage gets done. We had a small error in our window order - I have 2x4 walls in the shop but got a 2x6 window. I've hide it with a deeper shelf and some displays. The back splash houses some of my parts bins, a power strip and keeps things from falling behind. There will be pegboard as the back for the side bench (the small piece is there to plan hinge placement).

Even my old bench got one added after I had to pull it and those speakers out...

 

[akdiesel]

I agree with a couple of comments on moving the cabinets forward.
Use some 2x4 for frame work and a way to secure the cabinets to the wall. This should give about 2" of overhang on the top.
I also agree on using a back splash. Finishes off the bench and keep small items from falling behind since most walls are not perfectly flat or square.

 

[Modifieddriver]

I'd be concerned about the lamination coming loose on the overhang, especially where the vise will be mounted.

I'd reinforce the ends with angle iron attached with countersunk flathead screws from the bottom and edge. Shim as needed to get the angle flush with the top surface.

 

[bczygan]

Backsplash?

Depends on how you use the bench. If it's on casters and you roll it around the room...no.
For dismemberment...yes...you don't want to get the wall spattered.

 

[Oldbear]

Backsplash?

Depends on how you use the bench. If it's on casters and you roll it around the room...no.
For dismemberment...yes...you don't want to get the wall spattered.

My mobile bench doesn't have a back splash as I use all four sides. Just the fixed "J" benched.

 

[Blk88GT]

I'd cut it.

 

[st@rk]

Just made new bench tops and included a 100mm high back. The original 'temporary' ones didn't have a back and the difference is massive!

The overhang depends on what other work surfaces you have in your workshop; I don't have cabinets below my bench so can clamp to the frame without an overhang, but can see why you'd want it with your cupboards below. Personally I wouldn't have it.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Figured I'd update.

I cut the butcher block down and used the same piece as the backsplash. I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out and I didn't waste any materials which was the goal.

I think I have 8 coats of waterlox on it... I like wood working this was very fun to me. I hope to get some wood working tools now and start figuring out how and what to do with certain things. This is the first time I've counter sunk holes in wood before.


Backsplash attached

Just placed it on top... nothing screwed down yet:

Still undecided if I should paint then entire cabinet white?

I do like some overhand honestly but in the garage that is not that deep I choose to not really have tons of overhang like in the first picture with the butcher block not cut up. I still want to mount a vice on it but now I don't want to drill into the wood.. it looks too nice..hahah! So I opted to have about a 2-3" overhang in front which is fine because it still looks good to me and I still have an area to put things and store things where as before I had nothing but a partical board worktop.. which was ****.. thanks black and decker.. *shakes head.


-Nigel

 

[James E]

If you are counting votes, I am in favor of the overhang and a backsplash.

The overhang allows you to work more comfortably both standing up and sitting on a stool.

The backsplash keeps **** off of your wall and from getting stuck in the corner between the wall and countertop. The backsplash doesn't need to be anything more than a strip of quarter-round, if you don't like the look of a traditional backsplash. Just something to keep tiny parts and liquids from getting as far as the wall.

If you're really anti-backsplash, you might want to consider a strip of that L-shaped grout/weatherstrip that are self-adhesive on the backsides. They sell it at home stores for edging shower enclosures and other wet locations.

I love that wood top, by the way.

Edit: Damn, I somehow missed that this was an update. I think it turned out well.

 

[bob_s2]

Neither of my workbenches have a backsplash, but i could see where it would be useful. What i find really useful is to throw the rubber floor mat on the bench when I'm working with small stuff. That way parts don't roll.
--Bob

 

[Kevin54]

If a bench is up against the wall, then I would want a back splash. If you don't have one, before long the wall will be grungy and possibly dug up. But if the bench is out in the open, I want a flat top with no back splash.

 

[SD_R/T]

Still undecided if I should paint then entire cabinet white?

Turned out great! I'd vote for painting the cabinet white. The wood on the cabinet just competes with the nice new top you put on it. Very cool. Did I miss how much you paid for that Ikea top?

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Turned out great! I'd vote for painting the cabinet white. The wood on the cabinet just competes with the nice new top you put on it. Very cool. Did I miss how much you paid for that Ikea top?

Yea that's what I'm thinking as well. Guess I'll have to paint it here shortly..lol

I paid around $120-130 for the ikea butcher block top. It's very heavy and it's actually really nice/awesome for the price in my opinion. I have the sevelle (sp?)work bench from Sam's club and the maple butcher block top is EXTREMELY soft. I use tow of them downstairs in my basement for my gun/modding room where things aren't going to be slammed down on it... if I used it as an actual workbench it would look like *** really quick. But the Ikea one is very hard and I'm very pleased with it. Solid wood too!

-Nigel

 

[Falcon67]

Looks great! I like a back splash and have one on just about all the benches. The main bench uses a 2x4 frame with a 2x6 on the wall side. The top is a total of 1 5/16 which leaves a lip in the back of about 3/4". Just enough to keep some little spring or check ball from rolling away to hide.

 

[akdiesel]

Nice finish work on the top. As for the vice you could make a stand or bracket that attaches to the wall as well as the side of the bench to keep the bench top clean.