Do you tape your nuts?

[Interex]

As in wire nuts. I always see installation instructions for electrical items specify taping the open ends of wire nuts. I assume it's just a CYA on the manufactures part but do any of you (amateurs or professionals) actually do this?

 

[brewchief]

No, anytime I run across taped wire nuts it just says DIY to me.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2

 

[djjsr]

No tape on my nuts.

I don't trust regular electrical tape for anything permanent. It doesn't hold up over time.

 

[rlitman]

I've never seen that in manufacturer's instructions. That would be VERY disturbing, because manufacturer's instructions are the law when it comes to installations.

 

[2Big2Ride]

No tape on wire nuts. I will wrap tape around a device when installed in a metal box.

 

[Mickey O]

I thought this thread was going to be about something else, but as far as wire nuts sometimes I do on the older style wire nut and on the newer ones I don't. Just put two wire nuts on a disposal R&R last evening, no tape.

 

[youshouldatappd]

I'm curious what your referring to when you say "wire nuts", either of these?
I actually had to google these, I don't know these by that name. In Australia we would call these bp connectors and I usually use these sort.
The other sort are usually only seen on cheaper Chinese products. When replacing them with Bo connectors, I would usually solder the wires together, terminate them in the bp connector and then wrap it in tape covering the entrance hole to the connector. That's then usually enclosed in a junction box. But Im an electrician so I do this all the time.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I'm curious what your referring to when you say "wire nuts", either of these?

These are commonly call "split bolts" in the US and are typically not used for smaller than 10 gauge wire.

They should be wrapped with "friction tape", which is a cloth based tape rubber-based adhesive, not plastic electrical tape, Friction tape stay tacky for a long, Long time !

 

[Mickey O]

These are wire nuts out here, no tape required.

Those are called split bolt connectors out here and are used on larger wires when connecting, then you wrap them with a rubber mastic tape and then regular electrical tape.

 

[jerryd68]

I have installed the split bolt connectors on many larger frame motors, usually 50 hp and up. I normally wrap with a fiberglass tape first so that they will come apart the next time a bit easier, then a generous amount of linerless rubber tape, covered with vinyl electrical tape.

 

[porschedude996TT]

Nope, only saw that done once and it was not pretty inside.

Another question about installation is "Do you twist before you put your nut on?"

 

[Mickey O]

"Do you twist before you put your nut on?"

Never, if only to piss off the old union guy I apprenticed under.

 

[jontar]

As an industrial electrician when we use marrettes (wirenuts) we tape them, otherwise they fall off because of vibration in the plant, resi/comm electricians typically don't theres really no need.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Nope, only saw that done once and it was not pretty inside.

Another question about installation is "Do you twist before you put your nut on?"

Other brands may have different instructions, but this is from the 3M datasheet:

1. Strip wire insulation: 22–16 AWG = 5/8" 14–12 AWG = 1/2"
2. Firmly grasp wires, making sure insulation ends are even and tightly bundled. (Wires may be twisted or untwisted.) Lead stranded wires slightly. Slip the connector over wire tips.
3. Turn connector onto wires in clockwise direction until secure.
4. To remove, turn connector counter-clockwise.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?TTTTTTB_LdgTmwUTfwUTTTXYJDnp5uL&-

 

[Rtw5150]

It used to be code around here to twist the wires before you put a wire nut on, they changed it around '98 if I remember right. All the hacks were excited they didn't have to spend the extra 30 seconds actually making a proper splice, problem is if you take the the wire nut off a neutral on a multiwire circuit and the splice comes loose you actually make one big 240v series circuit instead of 2 120v parallel circuits. Proper splicing yes, taping no. As another poster stated always tape devices, and use good tape when you do it Scotch 33 or better. That cheap Jap wrap falls off in a week. And alway level your devices trim plates and make sure the screws face the same way, other wise it just looks hacky.

On another note we call split bolts Burndys around here

 

[porschedude996TT]

Ever since I found a red wire nut that turned brown because of resistance inside the nut. My thoughts on the matter are that if twisted, there is more surface contact on the stripped portion of the wires.

 

[PT Doc]

I always twist then nut it. No tape. If properly seated it would require vice grips to rip a properly seated wire nut off.

I did read somewhere that tape was recommended if vibration is part of the system. But it seems like folks don't even tape the nuts in an e motors j box.

 

[djjsr]

Stranded wires get twisted together before the wire nut is installed. Solid wires get twisted when the wire nut is being tightened.

If you have to rely on tape to keep a wire nut from falling off, you shouldn't be using wire nuts in that application. Find a connector that will handle vibration.

I am not an electrician.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I have installed the split bolt connectors on many larger frame motors, usually 50 hp and up. I normally wrap with a fiberglass tape first so that they will come apart the next time a bit easier, then a generous amount of linerless rubber tape, covered with vinyl electrical tape.

Why ? My experience (admittedly not much) is that the adhesive on vinyl tape fails over time. "Linerless" (I believe it is also called self-fusing) does not.

Old school, friction tape stays sticky forever and it costs a lot less than linerless.

 

[rlitman]

As an industrial electrician when we use marrettes (wirenuts) we tape them, otherwise they fall off because of vibration in the plant, resi/comm electricians typically don't theres really no need.

That's crazy. You need to learn how and when to use crimped connections.

 

[jerryd68]

Crimping is not always the answer, I have used different crimp connectors and some are good and others not so much. One of the connectors that we have been using a lot lately especially on control circuits etc.. is http://www.wago.us/2631.htm
they are very handy if your connecting to a live circuit.

 

[mattdwelder]

i always do , to prevent corrosion caused by moisture

 

[Socophreak]

Depends.

In an environment where vibration is an issue, yes. If heat is an issue I use fibreglass tape and porcelain marretes. I always grab each wire and test pull to see if they will pop out.

If I'm dealing with solid wire, I twist and nip the end to make parallel. Stranded I line it up and let the strands grab in to the marrete.

The problem with those lever action 'wire-nuts' (at least for us) is we deal with a wide varitey of wire sizes and types. Little bit easier to have a few marretes to cover all of the stuff we work on than to need a "3 - terminal" and only have a two.

 

[Norcal]

i always do , to prevent corrosion caused by moisture

Not doing a bit of good tape is not going to seal out moisture if that is the issue then use a epoxy kit.

 

[Roots]

Why ? My experience (admittedly not much) is that the adhesive on vinyl tape fails over time. "Linerless" (I believe it is also called self-fusing) does not.

Old school, friction tape stays sticky forever and it costs a lot less than linerless.

The splicing tape (such as 130C) helps prevent any of the edges from wearing through the insulation. The vinyl electric tape (such as 33+) protects the splicing tape.

High quality vinyl tape (not exposed to UV) lasts an exceptionally long time. I rarely found it starting to fail, even when dissecting 30-40 year old terminations. With time and heat, it may even need to be cut or chiseled off versus being unwrapped.

 

[bdamico]

I tend to be more of a tucker than a taper

 

[fury9]

No tape on the nuts but a quick wrap or two around the receptacle , yep, yes, we use metal boxes round here

 

[Kevin C]

No tape on my nuts.

Same here... Tape tends to leave a sticky residue that's hard to remove.

 

[foolishpride]

On another note we call split bolts Burndys around here

I grew up calling them Kerneys. That's what I was taught growing up in the trade.

 

[foolishpride]

The splicing tape (such as 130C) helps prevent any of the edges from wearing through the insulation. The vinyl electric tape (such as 33+) protects the splicing tape.

High quality vinyl tape (not exposed to UV) lasts an exceptionally long time. I rarely found it starting to fail, even when dissecting 30-40 year old terminations. With time and heat, it may even need to be cut or chiseled off versus being unwrapped.

^^^^^THIS!^^^^^

Scotch 130C and 33+ are the some of the best tapes you can use. Tape the 130C with the sticky side up, then single layer 33+ on the splice. This then will come off easily with a razor knife when needed.

 

[Kevin C]

I remember seeing the instructions to the wrap the wires with electrical tape in the data sheet I got from Hampton Bay lamps I bought at the Home Peephole. To me it seems to be related to hooking 18 to 24 gauge stranded to to solid with a wire compression fitting.

Right or wrong, its in some outdoor lamp installation instructions (see attached). Normally all I do is make sure the nut got a good bite and dress the wires so that the open part of the wire nut faces downward. That way if the fixture ever does leak, the wire nuts don't act like little water reservoirs.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/37/37bc0faa-789b-41b1-83f2-a2581e055ab7.pdf

 

[djjsr]

If there is a concern about moisture, there are weatherproof wirenuts available that will do a better job than tape. They come with a sealant contained inside and work very well.

 

[rabidsquirrel]

Why ? My experience (admittedly not much) is that the adhesive on vinyl tape fails over time. "Linerless" (I believe it is also called self-fusing) does not.

Old school, friction tape stays sticky forever and it costs a lot less than linerless.

I usually use vinyl tape as the final few wraps in the phase of the wire. The only vinyl tape I've seen fall off is the cheap ****.

 

[aar0s]

As an industrial electrician when we use marrettes (wirenuts) we tape them, otherwise they fall off because of vibration in the plant, resi/comm electricians typically don't theres really no need.

FIL was an electrician boss at a coal mine for years, puts a quick wrap around the wires and nut just to make sure.

 

[Thedroid]

I prefer to tape my connections.

 

[Speedy Petey]

FIL was an electrician boss at a coal mine for years, puts a quick wrap around the wires and nut just to make sure.

Just to make sure of what???

Tape WILL NOT keep on a wire nut. A properly installed wire nut will stay on forever without any help.
Tape WILL NOT keep out water and moisture. In fact, it can keep it in.

Tape on a wire nut has ONE purpose. To make the installer feel better. That's it!

 

[theoldwizard1]

Just to make sure of what???

Tape WILL NOT keep on a wire nut. A properly installed wire nut will stay on forever without any help.
Tape WILL NOT keep out water and moisture. In fact, it can keep it in.

Tape on a wire nut has ONE purpose. To make the installer feel better. That's it!

You forgot the most important reason to tape your nuts.

IN ORDER TO SELL MORE TAPE !!

 

[Aceman]

We tape the wirenuts in motors or other equipment with vibration.

 

[Roots]

As to the original question. I personally see no need to tape wire nuts, when properly installed. Some people are overly cautious though, and want that extra feel good magic that only tape can provide! As Speedy Petey mentioned.

If vibration is a significant concern, Ideal makes wire nuts designed for those situations, or you can just use something more suitable for vibration such as a terminal block.

 

[Norcal]

In most cases but not all, taped wire nuts are a warning of poorly made up connections, because if done correctly they are not coming off on their own.