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Do you think this will work (pics)

jamestheron08

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Jan 17, 2010
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hey guys I'm lost here, i need to expand my door to fit my dually in the garage i need to go 5" higher and 3 feet wider and I'm going to build barn swing doors here are some pics any ideas

IMG_0749.jpg


IMG_0751.jpg


IMG_0754.jpg


IMG_0759.jpg


heres the truck
IMG_0760.jpg
 
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larry4406

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Should be pretty straight forward. The roof load is being shed to the side walls, so the header over the door is just spanning the opening and taking the gable end load. The end wall does help to prevent the side walls from spreading apart.

Put in temporary bracing to hold the two side walls from spreading (collar ties) then take out your existing header, replace, etc. You will obviously loose the window with a 3foot width increase.

Make the opening a standard size should someone want to put in a conventional door. Looks like new concrete too to match the opening.
 

Piper

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Nov 17, 2006
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Muskoka, Canada
the 5 inch higher may be your only small concern. I'd take the pictures to your local building supply store with dimensions on for what you have and need. I find most lumbar yards (not HD or Lowes) have people more than willing to help with span length, header size, fasteners etc. That header isn't supporting much, luckily your roof runs the way it does. A 90' turn in the roof alignment would be a different story.
 

Kevin54

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Yep, like Larry said. I'd take a come-a-long and pull both side walls together just so they don't spread, get a little bit of bracing, and basically rip out the complete front and rebuild it with new lumber. You won't have a lot of money into it. Check with a door company to see what size of door rough openings you will need and build it to a door that you know will be wide enough to get your truck through.
 
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jamestheron08

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Jan 17, 2010
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so looking at pic #2 if just cut them 2x4s that are running up and down on top of the header and remove the header can i take a 16ft 4x4 and put that on top of the 2 2x4 that are nailed together then tie in the 2x4s
 
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jamestheron08

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yeah i installed them last month its a v10 but I'm in the process of a cummins swap but i need a big garage opening first
 
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kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
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Instead of doing some complicated carpenrty I would think about lifting the whole building and putting a row of cememt blocks around the outside.
One row will get you 8 inchs, put you might decide to go 2 rows once you get it up.
A building that small would be pretty easy to lift.
 

timewarp

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Silverdale, WA
so looking at pic #2 if just cut them 2x4s that are running up and down on top of the header and remove the header can i take a 16ft 4x4 and put that on top of the 2 2x4 that are nailed together then tie in the 2x4s

No, a 4x4 will not be a large enough header, the standard I have always heard for headres is that for every foot of door opening you need an inch of header height, so lets say you are going to go with a 10' door opening you would need a 4x10 for the header and you would want it to be as long as you could fit across the front of the building to give it support, at the minimum it would need to be 10'9" so it could be supported by 2 2x's on the end with room for a 2x piece of trim.
You also should add some sheathing(plywood or OSB) on that end wall as there will be very little wall left on either side of the door to resist shearing.


But doing what kbs is suggesting and raising the whole building might be a better solution as that would give you the height to put in an overhead door in the future if you wished.
 
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tcianci

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Actually a 4x4 would do it but good luck finding one that length that won't twist like a propeller when it dries out! Looks like the existing header is more than 5 inches, so if if it works out for you ok heightwise, just cut back the gable studs, lay your new header in on top of the existing double plate, add in 2 jack studs on each end of the header so that the header load, (which by the way is minimal) will bear on the jacks THROUGH the double plate. Doing it this way negates the necessity of reinforcing the structure while you work on it and your existing door (or what's left of it) will remain functional until you want to cut out the un-needed sheathing and old header.

Be sure to hire a qualified electrician, getting the wiring and fixtures back in place to look exactly like the existing job won't be easy :)
 
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jamestheron08

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Actually a 4x4 would do it but good luck finding one that length that won't twist like a propeller when it dries out! Looks like the existing header is more than 5 inches, so if if it works out for you ok heightwise, just cut back the gable studs, lay your new header in on top of the existing double plate, add in 2 jack studs on each end of the header so that the header load, (which by the way is minimal) will bear on the jacks THROUGH the double plate. Doing it this way negates the necessity of reinforcing the structure while you work on it and your existing door (or what's left of it) will remain functional until you want to cut out the un-needed sheathing and old header.

Be sure to hire a qualified electrician, getting the wiring and fixtures back in place to look exactly like the existing job won't be easy :)




this is what i was thinking to but it was hard for me to explain it lol
so its safe to cut the gable studs with no reinforcement??
 

idunnosh#t

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Nov 14, 2009
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central ia
Seen this at Noon but didn't have time to comment. #11 poster has pretty much same idea as what I was thinking.I'd just build in-place a full length 2ply 2x12 +osb header(2x10 is fine for a10' r.o.) from rake to rake on top of existing double plate following basically his same procedure.Your Scallop siding detail will be compromised by your new door height,but you should have no problem finding same style.My eyes aren't great but It's looks like whats called Box car here but that varies by region.Good luck
 
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