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DoAll ML bandsaw

Todd.Brock

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I just purchased this saw yesterday. It is a DoAll ML. There are some oddities about it such as not having a power feed option, missing a pulley to connect the air pump, the transmission is not engaging(seems like a linkage issue) what is really odd is the saw is spec'd for 110v. It has been repainted. I seem to have found my self with a bit of a project! The saw does run, but I need to figure out why it isn't going into gear, find a needle for the tachometer , find a nozzle for the air pump, reconnect the air pump to the pullies, figure out what I have, need and want. The blade welder I will leave alone.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1374849593.920849.jpg
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Todd.Brock

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Here is the transmission linkage. The small pulley off to the right seems to be for the tachometer, which has no needle!!ImageUploadedByTapatalk1374850557.520067.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1374850618.487430.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1374850641.721460.jpg

Original looking breaker
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1374850674.073410.jpg

Well, that's about all I have to show. My goal is to get it running and usable. I know very little about these saws. I registered at Practical Machinist and will have to reread AP_Mechs re-creation thread. If you have any insight, advice, or comments, I would love to hear. Thanks for looking!
 
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zkling

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You bought that? :drool: O I hate you Todd. :lol_hitti :beer: :thumbup:

I saw it, but ya know.

1.) Didn't need it
2.) Didn't have the spare cash
3.) Wrong side of town
4.) No way to transport it.

How is the overall all condition?

Don't worry about the air pump. Not needed for proper operation. Why type of transmission is on it? The few I have used were a bit tricky to get into gear. They were more of a get it there and leave it there type.

AGAIN you ****. :lol_hitti :beer:
 
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Todd.Brock

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Thanks zkling, It was on the way home. I paid $375 and he delivered with a lift gate truck. He fired it up last night and I saw it run. He said it wouldnt go in gear. The linkage was really loose and looked like it needed adjusted. I was taking it all in, so i didnt hone in on the where the sound was coming from. Here is a quick video of it running. I put it in low so it would allow the gears to be engaged. It seems to pop in and out of gear as well as re machining it self. The fluid was a little bit low, but pretty black. I will be replacing the ****** fluid, but know there is more going on than just that.
Ridiculous doesn't even describe parts costs. If you buy a new circlip, they throw in a new saw for free!!
 
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A_Pmech

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Looks like a good deal! :thumbup:

The transmission uses a dog clutch between high and low range. To shift gears run the variable drive down to the lowest speed and shift between high and low while the machine is running. It will slip right into gear unless there's a linkage / clutch problem.
 

zkling

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Thanks zkling, It was on the way home. I paid $375 and he delivered with a lift gate truck. He fired it up last night and I saw it run. He said it wouldnt go in gear. The linkage was really loose and looked like it needed adjusted. I was taking it all in, so i didnt hone in on the where the sound was coming from. Here is a quick video of it running. I put it in low so it would allow the gears to be engaged. It seems to pop in and out of gear.
Ridiculous doesn't even describe parts costs. If you buy a new circlip, they throw in a new saw for free!!

Dang that seems like a deal. I wonder if he would have delivered it to me? :lol_hitti I saw the asking price but didn't realize it didn't run properly.
Yea I have heard DoAll parts are ridiculous. Becareful running it if it keeps poping in and out of gear. If you destroy that gear box you are going to be in a deep hole. :shocking: Did you try cutting anything with it? Des it still jump gear when there is load on the output of the gear box caused by the cutting action?

I would check the linkage over real well like AP said above, he's the master of those saws. A drain and fill on the gearbox would probably be a sound idea. Hopefully no metal surprises come out along with the oil.

So is this the replacement for the WT? Whats the plans for the WT? :headscrat:D
 
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Todd.Brock

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AP, I have been reading your thread most if the day! I saw how the lockout works to keep it from shifting in anything but the slowest speed. It doesn't want to really go in and out of gear. It's like it's stuck in neutral, if you will. Moving it into gear and just rotating it by hand, it allows the wheel to spin backwards a ways, but will catch moving forward.

Zkling , I didn't run it anymore than that video. That bearing , self machining part, whatever the noise is, seems like its coming from the ****** and has me a little nervous. I will drain the fluid and replace with new 40 wt.

God willing and the creek don't rise, the WT will go on the auction block to fund a few parts for the DoAll.
 
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Doug Arthurs

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Sounds rough. Take all the belts off and spin things by hand to see if there is a bad bearing. If nothing shows up try it with low tension on the belt. That will show if a bearing is failing under load.
 
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Todd.Brock

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I tried the grinder and it works great. I also pulled the lever on the band saw welder just to see if sparks would fly. It made a humming noise, I didn't actually have a blade in it. A transmission tear down is coming soon !! Thank for looking.
 
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bsg

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Here is the transmission linkage. The small pulley off to the right seems to be for the tachometer, which has no needle!!ImageUploadedByTapatalk1374850557.520067.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1374850618.487430.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1374850641.721460.jpg

Original looking breaker
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1374850674.073410.jpg

Well, that's about all I have to show. My goal is to get it running and usable. I know very little about these saws. I registered at Practical Machinist and will have to reread AP_Mechs re-creation thread. If you have any insight, advice, or comments, I would love to hear. Thanks for looking!

You do know in the second picture the linkage for the gearbox is disconnected!

A lot of the parts in the gearbox you can source from any bearing house, only the gears you would have to buy from Do-All.

The high low gears are problematic if you have idiots shifting it without turning the Variable speed down.

I would not run the saw anymore until you diagnose the noise.
I would say more than likely the input and output shafts are your source for the noise and it took out the rear bearing in the process.

I have repaired several of these gear boxes, if you can get a parts diagram and look at the input and output shaft where they go together, if I remember correctly where the input shaft goes into the output shaft, the bore gets wore out in the output shaft, you can machine the bore and sleeve it to repair as long as the gear teeth are still good.

I have some replacement parts I can post pictures of so you can see what your getting into.

Also I would pull the variable speed belt off first and check the varidrive over real good, that's another source for problems, you can run the machine without the belt to see if the noise goes away, I have had belts in the past have a flat spot from not being used and that will also create havoc in the system.

These machines are built like tanks and if taken care of will last decades with just basic maintenance, your saw is living proof considering it is probably around seventy years old!

Good luck, please post pic's of your tear down and let us know what you find.

Kevin
 
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Todd.Brock

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You are correct about the linkage, I flipped it down to get a picture. On the collar that prevents it from being shifted in low gear, there is some evidence of being forced. I have not run the saw since the video. I plugged in the saw and tested the grinder without running the saw. Thanks for all your feedback!
 

gus1962

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What blades are you using by the way? Get good quality bi metal blades. I have 601 Haltbar blades, even better than the Lenox blade I used and it's inexpensive.
 

bsg

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