I suspect you have old awning-style windows where 3 or 4 individual aluminum-framed glass panes are clipped together by a bar on either side of the window, One side is the hand-crank, and over time the pivot pins and the e-clips holding the pins in-place, to actuate the awnings open/closed together, begin to fail. If the pivot points haven't received periodic lubrication the oxidation on the window mechanism binds-up. The window opening/closing crank becomes harder to operate, and may-not perform without some additional persuasion. That typically would be someone on the outside, pressing on the bottoms of a couple 'known to be sticky' panes so that as you crank 'em from the inside, you can get them to close.
Let's say that you get them to close. That last half-turn on the crank handle is supposed to get the panes' frames aligned with the 'burglar pins,' about the middle of each pane frames' side pieces. A couple of downward-facing hooks on either side of each frame are supposed to 'capture' stationary pins to make it harder to pry-open the window. Florida awning windows which have not been regularly-serviced often refuse to retract enough in the 'closed' position to adequately-contact the pins. 'Regular servicing' can be nothing more than shots of a penetrant/lubricant at each point where there is a pin and an e-clip, and the short lever to the linked narrow flat bar which opens/closes the panes.
The only thing worse than awning windows which have been neglected are jalousie windows. Before AC, Florida homes all used jalousie windows, They leak like a colander, but drive through any older residential neighborhood in FL and you will spot jalousie windows in-use.
This being GJ, my suggestion is that you budget for replacement windows, assuming that this is your home. Replacement windows rated for HVHZ use (
high-velocity hurricane zone) come with
Miami-Dade County Product Approval. That means the product has been tested to meet the pressure per sq. ft. rating currently in-place for the location where you live.
When you go to the city of Boynton Beach on E. Ocean Ave. and try to get a permit for replacing your windows, you need to provide that
MDC Product Approval packet for each size of window you're replacing.
These are forms you will need:
The last one is the Notice of Commencement (NOC). This protects you against lawsuits, if a GC hires a sub-contractor who does work at your house, but doesn't pay them. If that's the case, and you have a properly-executed NOC then the sub-contractor cannot seek payment from you.
Modern windows and doors help contribute to energy efficiency. They reduce the s.p.l. of noise from outside your house. The tint reduces radiant heat from the sun, and can impede UV rays. Most-importantly, they provide protection from hurricane winds and whatever wind-borne debris may strike your home.
If all of that is too-much $ for you, then sometimes the hole for the sheet-metal pan-head screw becomes too-enlarged to hold, Buy the next size larger. Having an assortment of say, #6, #8 and #10 screws in 1/2" and 3/4" will save you a return trip to the hardware store.
If you remove the glass and putty from your old windows, you can scrap them at a local recycler. You might have enough to buy you a nice 10" sub at WaWa.
This screw is from a 70’s era aluminum awning window. Living near the water is taking its toll on them. Need to replace a few if I can get them out without breaking them. As well as replace the ones that have broken.
