Does anyone make a 3/4" Drive Thin-wall, 17mm Deep Socket?

[DPDISXR4Ti]

The title says it all. Here's the back-story... My neighbor has some stuck lugs nuts that neither my 1/2" breaker bar nor 450 ft/lb impact gun will remove. I imagine my breaker bar will break if I use a cheater bar on it (I've done this before). My standard 17mm 3/4" drive socket is too thick to get into the lug nut recesses on the wheel. I have a lot more confidence in the strength of my 3/4" drive breaker bar. Using it with a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter to use my 1/2" drive 17mm socket is not an option as I'll instantly shear the adapter (I've done this before too).

 

[metaleltr]

looks like sunex does.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MPC5LO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Couldnt find a deep one that may fit in the wheel better. Unfortunately it is also 12 point. it might work but if you wreck the nut you have started a real nightmare.

I would consider one of the following

A better 3/4-1/2" adapter. Personally I would go proto- easily sourced online and industrial quality

A better 1/2" breaker bar. I have a pretty nice on from mac- little over 3'- should be up to the task nut kinda pricey

The cheap and dirty solution if you have a welder or a buddy with a welder.

Take this socket 1/2" thin wall 17mm

Find a 3/4" drive socket that will fit over the back of the 1/2" drive socket and weld them together, effectively manufacturing the socket that you need.

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

I'm not sure about using even Proto, I've broken them ,too. My son has had great luck with Princess Auto 1/2" breaker, long with great honking head. It has seen a lot of pipe time working on his 4x4. If PA has them, Harbor Fright should have them as well. I would worry more about the socket, a heavy Proto or SK, if they would fit in the hole.

 

[Shiftless]

Although you didn’t mention using it, I assume you have all ready shot in some penetrating oil. I have found Kroil to be the best aerosol.

Penetrating oil, wait a while, knock it with your impact gun, more oil, more impact. That should help.

If not, the other suggestions are good.

 

[Jagmandave]

And try tightening it first......

 

[4xdog]

+1 on Kroil. Definitely try a good penetrant like Kroil or PB Blaster and sufficient time -- a week or more if you have it, with a few impacts thrown in once in a while for good joss.

I recall having to change a tire on the 1971 Ford Torino I was using as a beater the summer of 1978 working in a paper mill. At the end of a double shift it was frustrating as hell not to be able to get the lug nuts off with the standard wrench. They'd been put on with an impact WAY too tight.

The millwrights came to my rescue, with a seriously heavy breaker bar (3/4" IRRC and about six feet of heavy pipe as a cheater bar. The nuts came off with that!

And I've made sure I or the shop torque the nuts properly ever since.

 

[Professional Tool User]

Time for an acetylene torch if those lug nuts are destroying breaker bars and adapters.

 

[finn]

Not sure how you are breaking tha adapters or breaker bars.

I always shear off the wheel stud in instances like this. Never broken a breaker bar, socket, or adapter removing a lug nut. The stud is always the weak link.

 

[bob15]

Make a thin walled socket with a grinding wheel.

Or, put a piece of pipe on your 1/2" breaker bar and go to town with it. Chances are, you will snap the wheel stud off before your breaker bar fails.

 

[M635_Guy]

I agree with the rest - some penetrating oil (night before and again morning of), tighten a bit and then use the breaker bar with a 3/4"-->1/2" adapter. Tightening a bit is a good idea too...

 

[patchap]

Put a 4' pipe on the breaker bar and try that first. If it breaks, it breaks.

 

[General Geoff]

When using your impact, did you have anything between the anvil and the socket? Extension, drive size adapter, u-joint? Does it run on air? If so, do you have adequate air to run it at full tilt?

 

[BolognaBlake]

It's been my experience that wheel stud will yield long before a decent breaker bar will.

 

[619DioFan]

Make a thin walled socket with a grinding wheel.

Or, put a piece of pipe on your 1/2" breaker bar and go to town with it. Chances are, you will snap the wheel stud off before your breaker bar fails.

I agree with grinding down a 3/4 inch drive socket to make it fit , or as another member posted " weld a 3/4 inch drive shallow socket to the end of a 1/2 drive deep 17mm socket "

 

[Shelbylex]

Try Koken. They have a lot of sockets
...will just take a while to get it

 

[epmills]

If you have a breaker bar you don't care too much about, have someone put some decent pressure on it (or even stand on it), while a second person smacks the end (like pounding a socket on) with a decent sized hammer.

 

[mcj115]

This may be stupid but what is the vehicle? Could they be right hand thread lugnuts?

 

[Macneil]

I wouldn’t use heat to go after a stuck lug nut. Wheel bearing and all..


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[General Geoff]

Try Koken. They have a lot of sockets
...will just take a while to get it

Order from amazon.jp, they'll arrive at your door in 3 business days. Unfortunately they don't seem to have that specific socket available

This is what you'd want.
https://www.uktools.com/17mm-34drive-deep-6pointhex-chrome-socket.html

26mm outer diameter on the fastener side. Check that against the diameter of your existing 3/4" 17mm socket.

 

[RedneckWelder]

I’ve used a grinder to thin wall and bevel cheap impact sockets for special applications...works well

If you have a lathe even better.

 

[G-Ram]

Weld the 17mm 1/2” drive socket to something with a 3/4” drive. Either another socket, or cut the drive end off an extension.


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[bob15]

This may be stupid but what is the vehicle? Could they be right hand thread lugnuts?

You mean left hand thread?

Most vehicles are right-hand thread.

 

[DavesGarage]

Find someone with a Milwaukee 1/2" 18 volt impact you can borrow . Sweet Jesus do I love mine. I work in construction and theres not many nuts and bolts it wont break loose. 1400 ft lbs of torque, something will give.

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

This is what you'd want.
https://www.uktools.com/17mm-34drive-deep-6pointhex-chrome-socket.html

Thank you. That's what I'm looking for.

Vehicle is a Mercedes E-Series with 14mm bolts (not studs).

Thanks for all the ideas.