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does anyone make a quality petcock/compressor drain?

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n8n

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Hi all,

subject pretty much summarizes my question.

Friend of mine bought a shop day before Xmas year before last. Came with big upright compressor, maybe 10 years old maybe more, don't really know. Had to use pliers to drain it. Finally handle started spinning on petcock. I've replaced it TWICE, one with one from HF, one from a local auto parts store (Dorman/Help I believe.) Neither replacement has lasted a full week, and I know his guys probably aren't even draining it every night like they should.

Where do you get a quality product?

Also, is there any auto-drain thing that works well and is reasonably affordable? I saw the one at HF and the reviews didn't really seem encouraging.

I bought a 1/4" ****** and ball valve from Lowe's, but I'm somewhat concerned as there was no max pressure rating on it. But I don't have any better ideas.
 
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n8n

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Brass close ****** OK? That's what I bought. Thanks guys I feel better now :)

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n8n

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The air brake thing looks good but how do you operate it on a vertical tank? Good idea though I wouldn't have thought of that.

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Bondo

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n8n said:
The air brake thing looks good but how do you operate it on a vertical tank? Good idea though I wouldn't have thought of that.

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Click to expand...

Ayuh,.... The one I've got has a cable tether, ya anchor the loose end where it's easy to reach, 'n just Pull the cable to drain the water,...
 
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n8n

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Bondo said:
Ayuh,.... The one I've got has a cable tether, ya anchor the loose end where it's easy to reach, 'n just Pull the cable to drain the water,...
Click to expand...

Makes sense, but it looks like it has to be pulled straight down... or did you use an elbow to turn it sideways below the tank, then tie off the other end of the cable?

Rookie2 said:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/petcocks?sortby=Default&sortorder=Ascending
Click to expand...

Pretty sure the first result is the second one that I bought! Is this yet another of those products that used to be something you didn't even think about but now you have to search out the very few that are still "made like they used to" to avoid getting complete junk?
 
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12ozd

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n8n said:
The air brake thing looks good but how do you operate it on a vertical tank? Good idea though I wouldn't have thought of that.
Click to expand...
Same as any other tank.
Screw it in the bottom, the cable is pulled to the side to release air.
When you let go, it automatically closes.
Check any truck dealer, or truck parts house.
Less than $8.00, NAPA has them also.


Like this
 
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nmcqueen469

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n8n

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nmcqueen469 said:
Bingo. I have one of those and it works great.

I have the end of the cable hanging on one of outlets on the compressor. I give it a yank right as I walk out of the shop each night. Piece of cake.
Click to expand...

Oh, I think I get it now. Never having seen one of those in person, I was assuming that it looked like a pressure relief valve, but I'm guessing you pull the stem to a side rather than straight out of the valve?

I've never messed with a truck with air brakes, is why it probably sounds like I'm asking dumb questions.
 
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GYPSY400

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12ozd said:
Same as any other tank.

Screw it in the bottom, the cable is pulled to the side to release air.

When you let go, it automatically closes.

Check any truck dealer, or truck parts house.

Less than $8.00, NAPA has them also.





Like this
Click to expand...


This is what I'm doing when I get my compressor installed.. Easy breezie


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Matt M PA

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I too used an elbow, some pipe and 1/4 turn ball valve. Then, I hooked up a cheap coiled airhose and blow gun. I open the ball valve...take the hose outside...and spray with the blow gun. Sure beats all that draining on the floor.
 
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911mike

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tlmartin84 said:
Ball valve guy here too........

Anyone have an auto drain on there tank?
Click to expand...

I put a 10ft coil of 3/8" copper tubing and then a auto drain and it works great. The tubing holds about 7 ounces of water so the tank is always dry. The auto drain opens for 1 second every hour. Not sure of the brand of drain but it was $120 at Grainger.
 
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MScott

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nmcqueen469

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n8n said:
Oh, I think I get it now. Never having seen one of those in person, I was assuming that it looked like a pressure relief valve, but I'm guessing you pull the stem to a side rather than straight out of the valve?

I've never messed with a truck with air brakes, is why it probably sounds like I'm asking dumb questions.
Click to expand...

Yep, you're exactly right.

The valve swivels rather than moving in/out, so all it takes is a little tug on the string/lanyard/cable to release it. No bending over, no reaching around under the compressor. Honestly, an auto-drain is the only thing that's easier.
 
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taumac

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balddave

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I just walked down this path for my fathers portable construction grade compressor. Bought a ball valve and fittings, but before I had the change to install, I happened down the walmart tool aisle of all places, and there it was, a 5$ bosch brand ball valve specifically for draining tanks, didn't need any additional fittings, and already had thread sealant on. So far it's worked great!

I don't have any experience with the air brake drains, but those do seem like the ticket for a stationary setup...

As for the Harbor Freight auto drain, I had purchased that for my garage compressor and it only lasted a few months at best...


-Dave
 
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Angelfire

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Regarding the air brake drains, it doesn't appear they have a provision for connecting any tubing/pipe to them to direct the water elsewhere so I'm assuming they just blow it out on the floor. With that in mind, I'd probably look to put a catch pan underneath. Not sure if that would work very well though. What I do now is release all the pressure from the tank and drain...only have to do this every now and again as we don't have much humidity. Do these brake drains work if there's no pressure behind them?
 
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James_B

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I was considering using one of these pneumatic solenoids for an home brew automatic drain system that was controlled by a plug in timer (or a remote controlled outlet).

I already have a smaller 100psi rated solenoid valve that I use to control the air feed to my LASER engraver. When I turn the remote fume extraction fan on, the solenoid activates and the airflow to the LASER head begins.
 
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n8n

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This is f'ing retarded. "American Valve" ball valves are GARBAGE. Yes, it's already broken. Went to bend handle for clearance and the stem snapped right off. Made of brass, and not particularly strong brass either. FAIL. Not buying any more valves from Lowes, lesson learned.

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coljar

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Stainless steel quarter turn Swagelok valves works great for this. Also planning on using an auto drain and using the Swagelok as the bypass around the auto drain.
 
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n8n

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Yeah I should have gone to plumbing supply. I know this now. Now do I get another better ball valve or go with the air brake tank drain is the question. I didn't realize box store quality was so bad

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b-body-bob

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n8n said:
This is f'ing retarded. "American Valve" ball valves are GARBAGE. Yes, it's already broken. Went to bend handle for clearance and the stem snapped right off. Made of brass, and not particularly strong brass either. FAIL. Not buying any more valves from Lowes, lesson learned.

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Click to expand...

The stem shouldn't have broken but it isn't meant to handle force like that either.

Next time take the handle off and bend it in a vise. You'll get a better bend and it'll look better too.
 
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n8n

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b-body-bob said:
The stem shouldn't have broken but it isn't meant to handle force like that either.

Next time take the handle off and bend it in a vise. You'll get a better bend and it'll look better too.
Click to expand...

I see that... but I've done it myself and seen plumbers do it too many times before for residential plumbing applications... I won't do it again now. Wasn't really worried about appearance when you can't even see it underneath the compressor...
 
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