Does anyone turn rotors and drums anymore?

[Wrench97]

With the wholesale cost of rotors today there are very few that are cost effective to turn.
Consider a Ammco combination lathe is close to $9000 and you pay a mechanic .5hrs so that's .5 he's not selling other parts, have to occasionally buy replacement bits and supplies it's just not worth it for 90% of the market.

 

[hotrod1968]

So the other night I started checking my dads truck (2005 GMC 2500) over for it's annual state inspection. Found a couple of bulbs out and the rear brakes were just over the state minimum requirement of 2/32". So I removed the calipers and rotors, cleaned the caliper brackets and the rotor mounting surfaces of any rust. Today at lunch I called around to local shops and asked if they could turn a set of rotors if I brought them down. I called twelve shops and the only place that would turn rotors was a parts store with a machine shop. The eleven other shops said that they don't turn rotors anymore and that it's just cheaper to replace them. These rotors are the OE parts that came on the truck, they have been on there for 14 years and 138K miles, they have a slight amount of rust on the outer edge. The OE GM rotors are over $200 a piece for this truck, aftermarket rotors are around $75. I have never had good luck with aftermarket brake rotors so I was not going to go there. When I was in the dealership we always turned rotors and never had any issues. Why would you throw away a perfectly good part when you can spend about 15 minutes of time while charging a customer an hour labor? So what everyone was telling me to do was to toss away a quality part and replace it with aftermarket piece of ****. I have been out of the auto business for six years now, have things changed that much since then? Sorry for the rant, it's just that I don't get it.

And hour labor??? Are you in kidding? I turned thousands when I had my parts store and machine shop and you get nowhere near a hours labor for a pair of rotors? Is your shop rate 25 or 30 a hour?
I would advocate for turning oem if within spec as they definitely are higher quality in most cases vs China ****..
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[2ndGearRubber]

And hour labor??? Are you in kidding? I turned thousands when I had my parts store and machine shop and you get nowhere near a hours labor for a pair of rotors? Is your shop rate 25 or 30 a hour?

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Our shop labor estimator (menu-pricing button) wants to charge $20 a rotor to cut them, which includes me removing them. If the car is not getting pads, that implies I get to clean the anchors, hardware, hubs, then cut 10thou of ******** off each side before I can even try to take a real pass. I charge an hour to remove them, then the $20 per; which is in line with the actual flat-rate labor time. I hold 100% of the liability for comebacks from used pads, and get to grind off all the rust and BS the last guy didn't.


It SHOULD be 1 hour of labor total as a minimum. RR pads per axle is typically 1 hour, .1 per rotor removed and replaced. At a shop, 1 hour is basic disassembly, and clean and reassemble. The cut is on top of that.



Honestly, I've spent an hour on rotors with 30+ thou of dish on each side. I grind off the worst with an die grinder, then take them on only slow passes no more than 2thou per pass. My stuff looks fresh out of the box when it's done. There's also a grey area of "cutting" a rotor. I go until they're flat (or under-spec). IDGAF how many passes that takes; if I'm dumb enough to sell a cut on a rotor that's been pad slapped 3 times, that's on me. The finished product must always be the same. I see some parts stores "cuts" that were maybe 6 thou per side tops, still with rust speckles and obviously with surface irregularities. IMO slamming through a cut taking 3thou+ per pass and not sanding or honing afterwards isn't really "cutting" them.


EDIT: My FAVORITE "cut" is when the rotor still has 20thou+ rust lips on the outside, only the braking surface actually got cut. Between this and infinte pad slaps, I've seen people go metal-on-metal with 4/32 of pad left. Backing plate of the pad just grinding away on the rust lip.

 

[wolf_from_wv]

It seems to be faster and less expensive around here (for what I drive) to just by new rotors.

 

[Aqua-Andy]

Honestly, I've spent an hour on rotors with 30+ thou of dish on each side. I grind off the worst with an die grinder, then take them on only slow passes no more than 2thou per pass. My stuff looks fresh out of the box when it's done. There's also a grey area of "cutting" a rotor. I go until they're flat (or under-spec). IDGAF how many passes that takes; if I'm dumb enough to sell a cut on a rotor that's been pad slapped 3 times, that's on me. The finished product must always be the same. I see some parts stores "cuts" that were maybe 6 thou per side tops, still with rust speckles and obviously with surface irregularities. IMO slamming through a cut taking 3thou+ per pass and not sanding or honing afterwards isn't really "cutting" them.

Who taught you to machine rotors? Why only .002" per pass? That is the minimum recommended amount to take off. What happens is there is not enough of the bit contacting the material so the bit overheats and dulls. Another reason for the .002" minimum is the bit needs to get under the material to cut it, with under .002" it wants to skim across the surface. I used to have no issue taking .030" off each side if needed and then a .002 or .003 finish cut, and they always came out looking good. Why sit there and watch the lath take off miniscule amounts? These things are meant to cut not hone the surface. Another thing is you need to get under the rust to good material on the first pass. Once again you have the bit overheating issue. Rust is actually harder than the base material plus as you are turning through the rust you have no transfer of heat from the bit to the material being turned. I'm sorry if this comes across as disrespectful, that's not how it is meant to be.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Who taught you to machine rotors? Why only .002" per pass? That is the minimum recommended amount to take off. What happens is there is not enough of the bit contacting the material so the bit overheats and dulls. Another reason for the .002" minimum is the bit needs to get under the material to cut it, with under .002" it wants to skim across the surface. I used to have no issue taking .030" off each side if needed and then a .002 or .003 finish cut, and they always came out looking good. Why sit there and watch the lath take off miniscule amounts? These things are meant to cut not hone the surface. Another thing is you need to get under the rust to good material on the first pass. Once again you have the bit overheating issue. Rust is actually harder than the base material plus as you are turning through the rust you have no transfer of heat from the bit to the material being turned. I'm sorry if this comes across as disrespectful, that's not how it is meant to be.

30 thou? In a single pass? 1 cut, 30thou deep? Our circuit breaker would pop, IDK how any machine could cut that deep right off the bat. If I want to pull 30 off, I'm grabbing an angle grinder. I was thought about 10 years ago by a gentleman with about 40 years of experience at the time. I've never heard ANYONE ever consider more than 4 thou on a clean-up pass right off the bat. Perhaps we're speaking in different measurements, because 30 thousandths of an inch is not getting cut off any rotor with a machine I've ever seen or used. Hell 5thou on a fast cut leaves grooves like a record. You can feel the high/low ridges.


3thou is the max clean-up pass I'll do. I'm not sitting there watching, I keep an ear towards the lathe and do other work. Usually it's 3 passes, each 2thou deep. Zero comebacks, no complaints, pads bed in great, tips last a LONG time so long as I keep the goobers away from the machine. I sand pretty aggressively before install, and wash thoroughly after cutting. I've always felt the sanding is the most important part to a quality finish.

 

[57JoeFoMoPar]

I do.

I drive a ton of miles for work as does my wife. We both do about 30-40K on our daily drivers per year, which doesn't factor in the miles I drive in my classics. Brakes are obviously a major wear item and rotors are the biggest expense of a basic brake job. I always keep my eyes peeled on FB marketplace and Craigsist for equipment, and I happened across an Ammco 4000 brake lathe.
https://scontent-lga3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/28377859_10104432434647344_165807470800295609_n.jpg?_nc_cat=101&_nc_oc=AQmAK6wPJ--d8ZG_YxvmPkWF_AhjfQVWiiVw_lW5dBlZf-2mFjc9iJs2TYs6v3ZJrRu6OjNu1Usplz-6R12o1fFe&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.**&oh=52b758f713c4ae5f6224c94eae03e7aa&oe=5E2582C8
It had all of the attachments for different size rotors and drums, an xtra set of carbide cutters, and the boring bar for drums. It was in perfect working condition, and I bought it for $100.

It has paid for itself at least 3 fold to date. I cut the rotors for my mom's Jeep Liberty, my Ford Escape, and my GMC Sierra. I'll also cut them for my BMW when the time comes. I've found that I can get at least another 40K miles out of a cut rotor before the chatter starts to piss me off. It sits in the corner of the shop and comes out when I need it.

 

[Aqua-Andy]

30 thou? In a single pass? 1 cut, 30thou deep? Our circuit breaker would pop, IDK how any machine could cut that deep right off the bat. If I want to pull 30 off, I'm grabbing an angle grinder. I was thought about 10 years ago by a gentleman with about 40 years of experience at the time. I've never heard ANYONE ever consider more than 4 thou on a clean-up pass right off the bat. Perhaps we're speaking in different measurements, because 30 thousandths of an inch is not getting cut off any rotor with a machine I've ever seen or used. Hell 5thou on a fast cut leaves grooves like a record. You can feel the high/low ridges.


3thou is the max clean-up pass I'll do. I'm not sitting there watching, I keep an ear towards the lathe and do other work. Usually it's 3 passes, each 2thou deep. Zero comebacks, no complaints, pads bed in great, tips last a LONG time so long as I keep the goobers away from the machine. I sand pretty aggressively before install, and wash thoroughly after cutting. I've always felt the sanding is the most important part to a quality finish.

Yup .030" off each side for .060" total if needed. Ammco 4000 can do it with ease. The Accuturn really a clone of the old FMC lathe at my last dealership could also do it. What you said about sanding and cleaning is unfortunately what 99 percent of techs don't do. I always sand with 80 grit on a sanding block and then wash with soap and water.

 

[Aqua-Andy]

I do.

I drive a ton of miles for work as does my wife. We both do about 30-40K on our daily drivers per year, which doesn't factor in the miles I drive in my classics. Brakes are obviously a major wear item and rotors are the biggest expense of a basic brake job. I always keep my eyes peeled on FB marketplace and Craigsist for equipment, and I happened across an Ammco 4000 brake lathe.
https://scontent-lga3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/28377859_10104432434647344_165807470800295609_n.jpg?_nc_cat=101&_nc_oc=AQmAK6wPJ--d8ZG_YxvmPkWF_AhjfQVWiiVw_lW5dBlZf-2mFjc9iJs2TYs6v3ZJrRu6OjNu1Usplz-6R12o1fFe&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.**&oh=52b758f713c4ae5f6224c94eae03e7aa&oe=5E2582C8
It had all of the attachments for different size rotors and drums, an xtra set of carbide cutters, and the boring bar for drums. It was in perfect working condition, and I bought it for $100.

It has paid for itself at least 3 fold to date. I cut the rotors for my mom's Jeep Liberty, my Ford Escape, and my GMC Sierra. I'll also cut them for my BMW when the time comes. I've found that I can get at least another 40K miles out of a cut rotor before the chatter starts to piss me off. It sits in the corner of the shop and comes out when I need it.

Wow awesome score! That has to be the best brake lathe ever made. You can still purchase that lathe new. Ammco had a great design and they did not screw it up trying to improve it, the thing just works. The only other tool that comes to mind that the manufacturer didn't screw up is the Ridgid pipe threaders.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Yup .030" off each side for .060" total if needed. Ammco 4000 can do it with ease. The Accuturn really a clone of the old FMC lathe at my last dealership could also do it. What you said about sanding and cleaning is unfortunately what 99 percent of techs don't do. I always sand with 80 grit on a sanding block and then wash with soap and water.

Hell if you've got something that'll pull 30thou off in one pass, I'd be cutting more rotors too. The current AAMCO at the shop is probably 30+yo. Like most shops, the electrical system has been patched and repaired by techs over the years. This has been occurring since at least the 50s, when the building was a small dealership. It would blow a breaker even thinking about 30thou. The phone company spent an 8 hour day trying to fix our phones, then threw in the towel and said they need to gut everything and re-run everything from the pole-forward. The electrical system is in similar condition.

The machine I learned on was 110v powered IIRC. That and my current setup are probably the reason for my light cuts.

To each their own.

 

[DGersic]

Ya know, this is a good post ^^^^^. I used to turn a lot of rotors and drums back in the 70's, and we seemed to have good luck with them. I honestly cannot ever recall a customer coming back with brake shudder complaints. But I must say, we were very careful to set the machine (and parts) up properly, so that the cutting was true.



I sold my service equipment many decades ago, and since then, I have farmed out a few rotors and drums for turning .... with HORRIBLE results. Maybe it's the guys doing the work, or I just don't know what it is. But I am totally done with turning rotors and drums. It's new parts from now on.

Rotors and drums in the 70s were huge, thick things that could be turned several times and still be well within spec. Rotors and drums now are tiny, thin things that are barely in spec when new.

First time I did brakes on my wife’s Toyota I couldn’t believe how tiny the rotors were. I was used to the rotors on my 73 Buick.




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[alexb2000]

Yup .030" off each side for .060" total if needed. Ammco 4000 can do it with ease. The Accuturn really a clone of the old FMC lathe at my last dealership could also do it. What you said about sanding and cleaning is unfortunately what 99 percent of techs don't do. I always sand with 80 grit on a sanding block and then wash with soap and water.

I have a 4000 and do .030 passes if needed on fast feed and the finish isn't that bad either. Most rotors I see need much less, usually a .015 fast cut followed by a 3-5 thousands slow finish cut. The only real challenge is making sure you have ALL the tooling for the 4000 so you can turn anything. Toyota Tundra rotors or duallys are a good one to test how well tooled up you are.

If we are talking about truck/van/suv rotors and drums I don't see why a person couldn't get a vehicle lifetime of use out of the OE parts as long as they don't let them get to metal on metal (outside of the rust belt of course).

 

[ScottsGT]

This thread had me looking up prices for OEM rotors and pads for my 2015 Mustang GT. Looks like I'm going to have to take out a second mortgage when time comes.
Rotors are MSRP $325 ea and pad sets are the same. Might have to start shopping and stock up early.

 

[M6erfan]

When my dad had a 5 series bimmer, dealer said you can't turn the rotors cause if you do they will be under the minimum recommended thickness since that vehicle's tolerances were tight. Need to replace rotors every brake job. Now I could understand if some new cars are made that way but I never did bother to check if that was BS or not. He's had em turned before (by the shop he goes to) & we don't own that car anymore.

Yeah, BMW rotors are relatively thin to begin with. I've done lots of BMW brake jobs and I used to check rotor thickness. Every single one I checked was below or at best very near minimum thickness. By the time the pads start squealing or the dash's brake light triggers the rotors are usually past it, along with the pads. I stopped checking thickness and now I just replace the rotors. The O.E. German made Zimmerman's are only about $40-$45 ea.

 

[Phantomd]

Rockauto has the GM OEM rotors for $82 front and $65 rear. There at the bottom of the rather large list.

 

[Aaron_W]

I was in a garage in town yesterday. We got to talking about older machinery because he knows I like to do refurb on them. He pointed to the brake lathe on one side of the bay and made the comment that he had not used it in the last 5 years, so there’s that.

I've been seeing a lot of brake lathes on Craigslist lately.

Rotors and drums in the 70s were huge, thick things that could be turned several times and still be well within spec. Rotors and drums now are tiny, thin things that are barely in spec when new.

First time I did brakes on my wife’s Toyota I couldn’t believe how tiny the rotors were. I was used to the rotors on my 73 Buick.




Sent from my iPad using The Garage Journal mobile app

I've started taking autoshop classes at the local college so I can do better working on my own vehicles. As I mentioned above I've been seeing quite a few brake lathes turning up on Craigslist.

I asked my instructor about that, wondering what the deal is. He basically said what you said, On many newer cars the rotors / drums are so thin to start with that there isn't enough meat on them to turn. If they are bad, just replace.

It kind of makes sense, cars are lighter because they try and save weight (and cost) everywhere they can. Sure thin brake rotors probably only saves maybe a pound (combined), but do that with every component and it adds up to a significant amount of weight.

Same with cost savings, saving $1 per car is a lot of money when you sell 500,000 cars per year.

 

[Tonyuk]

Haven't turned a rotor in years, since around the early 90's.

No point to it these days in a modern dealership.

Thinner rotors allow them to be wider for the same given weight, increasing stopping power.

Lighter, smaller rotors decrease unsprung weight, increasing fuel efficiency.

Why would you want a thick heavy rotor for a standard road car???

 

[m96ag]

I guess the problem I have with all the aftermarket rotors that I have tried is that the metal falls apart within a couple of years, joys of living in the rust belt. They are just not the same quality as an OE part. Aftermarket rotors are cheap now because they are cheap, the quality is just ****. Back maybe 10 or 12 years ago GM came out with a less expensive brake products line under the AC Delco brand (they were just relabeled Raybestos blue box) . These brake parts were about half the retail cost of the genuine GM parts. This move did make the dealership more competitive in the market but at the cost of quality. We had nothing but problems with this line of products. I'm impressed that you go through the work of checking runout when mounting rotors. Very few techs do that these days, most of the other techs I worked with thought I was wasting my time checking runout.

Have you tried buying coated rotors?

 

[Parrothead]

This thread had me looking up prices for OEM rotors and pads for my 2015 Mustang GT. Looks like I'm going to have to take out a second mortgage when time comes.
Rotors are MSRP $325 ea and pad sets are the same. Might have to start shopping and stock up early.

Where are you shopping? The most expensive rotors I could find on Rockauto were $118 each, so that comes out to $236, and the pads were $219 for the most expensive pads (SVT package). Again, that’s the MOST expensive I could find. What I would deem a good performance pad would be around $70, and the rotors under $100 each.

If you’re running a normal GT setup under $300 is reasonable to me.

 

[mbshop]

If the rotors have little wear, gave no previous issues, i would not turn them. Just replace the pads. I do champfer the edges of the pads. Thats it. Over 35 years of doing this with no real issues.

 

[ScottsGT]

Where are you shopping? The most expensive rotors I could find on Rockauto were $118 each, so that comes out to $236, and the pads were $219 for the most expensive pads (SVT package). Again, that’s the MOST expensive I could find. What I would deem a good performance pad would be around $70, and the rotors under $100 each.

If you’re running a normal GT setup under $300 is reasonable to me.

I just did a quick Google search. No where needing them now, but curiosity had me looking. I've got standard GT, not Perf. Pack. And this is where it gets confusing picking out the right parts. My GT brakes are the Performance Pack brakes on the Ecoboost cars, but I cannot remember if they were advertised as "Brembo" on the Ecoboost. Folks are saying that the base and premium "unbranded" brakes are Brembo as well, just not written on the calipers. And this adds another level of confusion when shopping parts.
When I get serious, I'll find a website and enter my VIN and search it that way. I'd like some slotted rotors anyway, but past experience with them was not that good. Hoping by the time I need them, some quality ones are available.

I couldn't find any on Rock Auto just now listed as OEM, but did see Motorcraft. I did find one dealership selling them for $119 each. OEM pads through Ford apparently just went up from $200 to $260, but also a quick read, looks like there are better non-OEM pads out there for less.

 

[Tonyuk]

I can get 2 front rotors for my car for £120.00 total. Thats genuine ATE parts, which is the VAG OEM manufacturer.

Pads for the front are £62, thats ATE again, including the built in wear sensor.

Skim a rotor to save £80? no thank you.

 

[Mr_John]

First of all, just read that OP got 14 years out of set of rear rotors! And you're thinking about reusing them!? The OE rotors on my GTI were high quality, but they wore out before the front rotors in that vehicle (and yes, even though only approx 40% braking is attributed to rear brakes). If you got over 100K miles and over a decade out of rear rotors - it's time to retire them. Just the amount of rust that builds up, not to mention how much of the metal has worn after 138K miles. Also, this is on a large pickup truck, that is often used to haul heavy loads... meaning there is even extra demands placed on those rear rotors. Actually, unless your dad purchased that truck new, I find it hard to believe the original got 138K mile on them.

The above said, I bought my rotors from FCP Euro, a fairly large European parts store out of CT. They have a lifetime guarantee on ALL of their parts... yes ALL, even oil filters, brake pads, and rotors. The rotors were Made in Germany by Zimmerman, and were only $43 a piece - so about $87 for the pair, and free shipping over $50 (unlike Rock Auto, that charges quite a bit to ship rotors). Made in German w/ a lifetime warranty (all I'd have to do to get credit is ship them back - so maybe $20 via USPS to warranty them... well worth it). That said, especially after the hassle of getting to the rotors in the first place... it's just no worth it for me to bother with refinishing old rotors when I can get new ones (Made in Germany) for only $43 a piece.

I know the basic rotors they sell you at Advance tend to be junk... but with a bit of searching online (or even moving to Advance's better rotors - they have a 25% coupon now), I'm sure you can find something high quality that would be a much better choice than turning rusty rotors that have over 100K miles on them and are over a decade old.

 

[alexb2000]

First of all, just read that OP got 14 years out of set of rear rotors! And you're thinking about reusing them!? The OE rotors on my GTI were high quality, but they wore out before the front rotors in that vehicle (and yes, even though only approx 40% braking is attributed to rear brakes). If you got over 100K miles and over a decade out of rear rotors - it's time to retire them. Just the amount of rust that builds up, not to mention how much of the metal has worn after 138K miles. Also, this is on a large pickup truck, that is often used to haul heavy loads... meaning there is even extra demands placed on those rear rotors. Actually, unless your dad purchased that truck new, I find it hard to believe the original got 138K mile on them.

The above said, I bought my rotors from FCP Euro, a fairly large European parts store out of CT. They have a lifetime guarantee on ALL of their parts... yes ALL, even oil filters, brake pads, and rotors. The rotors were Made in Germany by Zimmerman, and were only $43 a piece - so about $87 for the pair, and free shipping over $50 (unlike Rock Auto, that charges quite a bit to ship rotors). Made in German w/ a lifetime warranty (all I'd have to do to get credit is ship them back - so maybe $20 via USPS to warranty them... well worth it). That said, especially after the hassle of getting to the rotors in the first place... it's just no worth it for me to bother with refinishing old rotors when I can get new ones (Made in Germany) for only $43 a piece.

I know the basic rotors they sell you at Advance tend to be junk... but with a bit of searching online (or even moving to Advance's better rotors - they have a 25% coupon now), I'm sure you can find something high quality that would be a much better choice than turning rusty rotors that have over 100K miles on them and are over a decade old.

Some of your post I don't understand. If rust isn't an issue, I would say an old quality rotor is better than a new one assuming you are well above min thickness when you turn it. The reason I say that is the old rotor has been through many heat cycles and has moved all it is going to move so warpage shouldn't be a factor once turned true. I've tested this theory by putting a dial gauge on a new rotor driving the vehicle enough to get the brakes good and hot and then indicating them again. On cheap (and some more expensive) rotors I have seen .003-.005" runout after the first drive cycle when they ran <.0015 before being used. Also, while small car brake components (like a GTI) may be disposable items, truck/van brakes can easily go 100K miles and the rotors can last several hundred thousand miles.

 

[VinceG]

When I went to get the parts to rebuild a stuck Caliper on the wife's mini-van the parts had to be ordered and would have been $15 more than the rebuilt one they had on the shelf. I've worked as a diesel mechanic for 25+ years now we just replace parts not rebuild them. Toss it out and get new one seems to be how it works. new Techs cant rebuild Starters,Alternators,Transmissions, Steering gear boxes. we just toss in a new part sometimes we use a reman trans but if it under warranty we get a factory one.

 

[Mr_John]

Some of your post I don't understand. If rust isn't an issue, I would say an old quality rotor is better than a new one assuming you are well above min thickness when you turn it. The reason I say that is the old rotor has been through many heat cycles and has moved all it is going to move so warpage shouldn't be a factor once turned true. I've tested this theory by putting a dial gauge on a new rotor driving the vehicle enough to get the brakes good and hot and then indicating them again. On cheap (and some more expensive) rotors I have seen .003-.005" runout after the first drive cycle when they ran <.0015 before being used. Also, while small car brake components (like a GTI) may be disposable items, truck/van brakes can easily go 100K miles and the rotors can last several hundred thousand miles.

Well, a tornado wouldn't be so bad if it wasn't for all that wind... yes, min thickness and rust are considerations on a 138K mile rotor that's almost old enough to graduate high school. I'm not sure where you're getting these 200K mile rotors from on trucks, as if trucks use some much higher end steel that you're not finding on a sports car, for example. I'm not arguing for cheap rotors, as I agree, some of the budget stuff out there is straight ****... the ones I purchased for around $43 a piece, were not even coated in oil, because they have a high end finish, that does not rust in the box, so they don't even need the coating. In addition, as I mentioned, many trucks rotors/brakes are exposed to higher stopping stresses due to all the extra weight some pickups haul (ie - work trucks, and people that haul boats, for ex).

So, my point is still the same - it is absolutely not worth it to turn a decade + old rotor with 138K miles on it. Not only that - even if you do it, you got to take both rotors off at the same time and then run them to whatever shop will actually turn the rotors while you're in the middle of a brake job. That's a total bust!

 

[Aqua-Andy]

First of all, just read that OP got 14 years out of set of rear rotors! And you're thinking about reusing them!? The OE rotors on my GTI were high quality, but they wore out before the front rotors in that vehicle (and yes, even though only approx 40% braking is attributed to rear brakes). If you got over 100K miles and over a decade out of rear rotors - it's time to retire them. Just the amount of rust that builds up, not to mention how much of the metal has worn after 138K miles. Also, this is on a large pickup truck, that is often used to haul heavy loads... meaning there is even extra demands placed on those rear rotors. Yes this truck hauls heavy loads but only in trailer form. This truck hauls a 13K pound fifth wheel at least 6K miles a year and a 6K pound boat around 400 miles a year. The thing is both these trailers are self sustaining when it comes to stopping. Actually, unless your dad purchased that truck new, I find it hard to believe the original got 138K mile on them. You do have a point there, the truck was purchased used with 6K miles on it. But they have never been replaced while he has had the truck (I would have known because I'm the only person that has ever set hands on it in regards to repairs in the time that he has owned it). I also removed the OEm retaining clips from the studs so that I could remove the rotors.



The above said, I bought my rotors from FCP Euro, a fairly large European parts store out of CT. They have a lifetime guarantee on ALL of their parts... yes ALL, even oil filters, brake pads, and rotors. The rotors were Made in Germany by Zimmerman, and were only $43 a piece - so about $87 for the pair, and free shipping over $50 (unlike Rock Auto, that charges quite a bit to ship rotors). Made in German w/ a lifetime warranty (all I'd have to do to get credit is ship them back - so maybe $20 via USPS to warranty them... well worth it). That said, especially after the hassle of getting to the rotors in the first place... it's just no worth it for me to bother with refinishing old rotors when I can get new ones (Made in Germany) for only $43 a piece.

I know the basic rotors they sell you at Advance tend to be junk... but with a bit of searching online (or even moving to Advance's better rotors - they have a 25% coupon now), I'm sure you can find something high quality that would be a much better choice than turning rusty rotors that have over 100K miles on them and are over a decade old.

Well, a tornado wouldn't be so bad if it wasn't for all that wind... yes, min thickness and rust are considerations on a 138K mile rotor that's almost old enough to graduate high school. I'm not sure where you're getting these 200K mile rotors from on trucks, as if trucks use some much higher end steel that you might find on a sports car, for example. I'm not arguing for cheap rotors, as I agree, some of the budget stuff out there is straight ****... the ones I purchased for around $43 a piece, were not even coated in oil, because they have a high end finish, that does not rust in the box, so they don't even need the coating. In addition, as I mentioned, many trucks rotors/brakes are exposed to higher stopping stresses due to all the extra weight some pickups haul (ie - work trucks, and people that haul boats, for ex).

So, my point is still the same - it is absolutely not worth it to turn a decade + old rotor with 138K miles on it. Not only that - even if you do it, you got to take both rotors off at the same time and then run them to whatever shop will actually turn the rotors while you're in the middle of a brake job. That's a total bust!

So I brought the rotors down to one of the more reputable parts stores in the area while I was picking up the pads. I dropped the rotors off and also had to order a t-case output shaft seal. The next day my wife was going into town anyway so she picked up the rotors and the seal that I had already paid for. They charged $38 to turn both the rotors and there was no rust left on the breaking surface. When I measured them they were both still around .030" over the min thick speck that is stamped on the rotor. So I saved at least $400 over purchasing new OEM rotors and still have a perfectly serviceable parts that will last for years to come. That is very worth it to me. Just when do you consider a part to be worn out and needing replacement? Do you replace an entire rear axle at a given mileage? Replace the engine because it has lasted long enough? I have no issues replacing a part if it is worn and needs to be retired but I don't see the issue replacing parts that are within manufacturers specs and are working fine. This same truck is still on the original front brakes, they are only about 1/3 worn and the rotors are original. Should I be replacing the fronts just because they are 14 years old? My commuter vehicle is a 2003 Toyota Corolla. A few years ago I stopped at the library of the town that we moved into so that I could get a library card. When I was leaving I went to start my car and it would not start. I took out the lug wrench and tapped on the starter, it started on the next try. When I got home I removed the starter and disassembled it. The brushes were wiped out. I ordered a set of brushes and a solenoid off Amazon (around $20 total) and received the parts two days later. I turned the commutator (ran it in a drill with emery cloth on the com) and reassembled with the new parts. Was it worth it to rebuild a 120K mile starter? To me yes it was. I have never had any luck with aftermarket rebuilt starters or alternators. When I was fixing vehicles professionally it got to the point where I flat out refused to install aftermarket electrical parts, the failure rate is horrendous. There is a reason these always come with a lifetime warranty, it's because you need it (they really should come with roadside assistance). So yes I would rather repair/ rebuild a part of known origin and quality than gamble on the aftermarket junk that is sold these days.

 

[Mr_John]

So I brought the rotors down to one of the more reputable parts stores in the area while I was picking up the pads. I dropped the rotors off and also had to order a t-case output shaft seal. The next day my wife was going into town anyway so she picked up the rotors and the seal that I had already paid for. They charged $38 to turn both the rotors and there was no rust left on the breaking surface. When I measured them they were both still around .030" over the min thick speck that is stamped on the rotor. So I saved at least $400 over purchasing new OEM rotors and still have a perfectly serviceable parts that will last for years to come. That is very worth it to me. Just when do you consider a part to be worn out and needing replacement? Do you replace an entire rear axle at a given mileage? Replace the engine because it has lasted long enough? I have no issues replacing a part if it is worn and needs to be retired but I don't see the issue replacing parts that are within manufacturers specs and are working fine. This same truck is still on the original front brakes, they are only about 1/3 worn and the rotors are original. Should I be replacing the fronts just because they are 14 years old? My commuter vehicle is a 2003 Toyota Corolla. A few years ago I stopped at the library of the town that we moved into so that I could get a library card. When I was leaving I went to start my car and it would not start. I took out the lug wrench and tapped on the starter, it started on the next try. When I got home I removed the starter and disassembled it. The brushes were wiped out. I ordered a set of brushes and a solenoid off Amazon (around $20 total) and received the parts two days later. I turned the commutator (ran it in a drill with emery cloth on the com) and reassembled with the new parts. Was it worth it to rebuild a 120K mile starter? To me yes it was. I have never had any luck with aftermarket rebuilt starters or alternators. When I was fixing vehicles professionally it got to the point where I flat out refused to install aftermarket electrical parts, the failure rate is horrendous. There is a reason these always come with a lifetime warranty, it's because you need it (they really should come with roadside assistance). So yes I would rather repair/ rebuild a part of known origin and quality than gamble on the aftermarket junk that is sold these days.

I do a lot of preventive maintenance. I don't always wait for parts to fail. Also, as an example, I replaced the Diverter Valve on my GTI. It had failed, but the part I replaced it with was a German made Pierburg DV that was something like Revision IV with a reliable piston, vs the unreliable Rev 1 or 2 that used a rubber diaphragm. Some parts swaps increase performance and reliability. I don't mess with rotors anymore, especially when I have the option of a free replacement. A rear brake job changing out rotors takes me a couple hours, so, it's just not worth it, esp given rotors propensity to warp over time, and especially as the metal becomes thinner and thinner, the chance of them warping becomes even higher.

Finally, $400 for rear rotors? Where did you get that quote from, the dealer?

 

[Aqua-Andy]

Finally, $400 for rear rotors? Where did you get that quote from, the dealer?

Yup, where else would you purchase GM OE rotors? Please don't say Rockauto, they sell AC Delco rotors not GM OE rotors. If you read some of my first posts you will see how I have pointed out the difference between the two products, no they are not the same. I have also pointed out how I have never had good luck with aftermarket rotors, and this is installing them on many hundreds of customers vehicles not just on my own fleet.

 

[Mr_John]

Yup, where else would you purchase GM OE rotors? Please don't say Rockauto, they sell AC Delco rotors not GM OE rotors. If you read some of my first posts you will see how I have pointed out the difference between the two products, no they are not the same. I have also pointed out how I have never had good luck with aftermarket rotors, and this is installing them on many hundreds of customers vehicles not just on my own fleet.

Welp, that's not always the case. As you know, GM does not make rotors, they source them from a supplier, place a GM Part # on them, mark them up, and call them "Genuine GM," but they may have been made by Brembo, for example, and Bremo is the OE supplier. That Pierburg DV valve I bought is relabeled VW/VAG and sold as Genuine VW, but it is a Pierburg part, most likely sold with a Pierburg label (at 2 - 3 times the price).

Another example, my BMW seems to eat ABS Wheel Sensors. I originally bought an Airtex Wells from Rock Auto for $70 +. I also bought a ATE (Germany) that was sold on FCP for less than $40. The Airtex Wells turns out to be nothing but a reboxed ATE, as I was able to compare them - and the BMW wheel sensors I removed from my car were ATE as well... didn't even have a BMW stamping on it.

As a separate aside, you can buy dealer parts from places like FCP and other online dealer website for often much lower prices than your local dealer, as well. That aside, who is the OE supplier for rotors on your GM truck? Once you know that, we can then just look them up on Rock Auto, Advance, or some other third party website and get a reasonable price - not $200 a rotor, which is crazy money for rear rotors.

 

[Wrench97]

OEM suppliers change over time as well, this years supplier may not supply service parts in the future.

 

[454ragtop]

I have both an old drum only lathe, and an Ammco 4000 setup in my shipping container. I replace a lot of rotors, but once in a while inexpensive rotors aren't available and I turn them. Probably cut more drums than rotors, lots of drums aren't cheap. Paid $25. for the drum lathe, and $700. for the Ammco many years ago, they've more than paid for themselves.