Does my compressor setup make sense?

[gdocktor3]

I've decided to upgrade my air hoses and fittings in order to get the most out of my 3/4" Aircat impact wrench, but then I noticed something. I have an older 30 gallon 5 hp horizontal Craftsman compressor. Works really well. Its the biggest I can afford to fit right now. I plan on putting a 6 foot 1/2" hose threaded directly into the gun with a Chicago twist lock crow foot coupling on the other end. The kind you see on jackhammers and stuff with the cotter pin. That will connect to a 1/2" 50 footer that is threaded right into the shut off valve. However, the switch that comes off the tank has a 1/4" ****** that goes to the regulator, which then goes 3/8" ****** to filter, then another 3/8" ****** to 1/2" shut off valve. So am I really going to benefit from the 1/2" hose? That first blast will be strong, but after that, will the small fittings at the tank put out enough to keep that hose filled? The filter and regulator are 3/8" thread and can probably be upgraded to 1/2", but the switch off the tank will still be 1/4". I don't know, I was just wondering..

 

[woody6904]

Do you have another plug in the tank you can take out and put the 1/2 line on that? Come out of the tank with larger fittings and a ball valve and then a coupler. This will bypass the smaller fittings and the regulator.

 

[md21722]

Lower end compressors often have 1/4" NPT out of the tank through the pressure switch.

You don't need the jackhammer style fittings. You can use Milton V style or one of the other styles common on 1/2" line that are good for 70 CFM. But you are still limited by the flow of your regulator & even worse the pressure witch and its 1/4" NPT fittings which are typically rated no more than 40 CFM. If you have a second port on the tank that is 1/2"-3/4" NPT then you would want to use that. You could also look into getting an auxiliary tank with larger threaded fittings. 1/2" NPT air line is rated for about 100 CFM.

 

[Boilerhouse]

I am no expert on flow dynamics, .... while the set up is not ideal, the restriction is limited to a very short length. It may have minimal affect on the cfm at the tool.

 

[gdocktor3]

I know there is a large 1-1/4" or so plug in the end. I could put a bushing in it to reduce it to 1/2", but is that safe to do? I would obviously have to install a regulator, but will it be ok if the switch remains at the top? I guess the switch is just there to read tank pressure and determine when the motor should kick on, right? As long as I leave it connected up there and I install a bushing on the end with a regulator and run the hose out from there I'll be ok, right?

 

[jallyn]

Right. You can tap into the tank wherever you like. The pressure switch will still do its job as long as it is connected to the tank. (Pressure in the tank is the same throughout). Try your setup and see how you like the performance.

A secondary tank, especially if you can find one used, will be the cheapest way to lengthen the times between when the compressor kicks on again. You would use as large a pipe size as possible to connect the two and tap into either tank. For safety a secondary tank should have it's own safety pressure relief valve...probably comes with one anyway.

 

[gdocktor3]

Unfortunately I don't have room or a secondary tank. I would buy a bigger compressor in general if I had the room. One thing that ***** is I already bought the 6' hose with the crowfoot coupling and received it today. As I am looking at it I noticed the 3/8" threaded end has a larger inside diameter than the crowfoot coupling has and it is 1/2" hose. The reason I bought the crowfoot coupling was because I thought it had no restriction. I'm pretty disappointed. Here's a pic.

 

[gdocktor3]

Can you guys see the large pic in the reply or only the little thumbnail? Or neither

 

[8t6bronco]

Can you guys see the large pic in the reply or only the little thumbnail? Or neither

Thumbnail is working properly

 

[woody6904]

Im assuming this bigger hose setup is mainly just for your 3/4 in impact? If it is just take out that big plug in the end, reduce it down, add a ball valve and coupler, and skip the regulator.

And go with the Milton V's!

 

[goblue1998]

I have a similar craftsman 5hp compressor. I pulled the plug out of the end of the tank and put a bushing down to 3/4 not. Then a high flow regulator and a half inch hose. Only quick disconnect is at the end of the hose. Made a HUGE difference with my Chicago pneumatic impact.

One more thing. The only way I was able to get the plug out was to warm it up with an oxy acetylene torch. Wouldn't budge with a 6 foot cheater but came right out after the torch.

 

[md21722]

I have heard that torches are the way to get these plugs out.

Pressure switch can be anywhere connected to the tank. It's only purpose is to sense tank pressure to tell the compressor when to come on and off. Most higher flow compressors do not route the outlet through the regulator, favoring a 3/4 or 1/2 outlet elsewhere.

If you're running the compressor a ton, then you want the filter/water separator as close to the point of use as possible, generally no less than 25 feet from the compressor. The reason is that if the air cools past the regulator, the air will condense more and put water in the tool. With a 3/4" impact its probably not going to be an issue, but something to be aware of if you see it.

 

[sberry]

Using the bigger hose wi help some even with the 1/4.

 

[gdocktor3]

I plan on using the 1/2" hose for everything. The aircat will have a 1/2" 6' hose threaded into it that I will connect to the 50 footer. The rest of my tools currently have 3/8" body automotive couplers that connect to a 3/8" line and will use some type of fitting on the end to connect to the 1/2" 50 footer. That's what I planned on using the crowfoot couplings for, but I'm pretty upset at how small the inside diameter is on them and how big and bulky they are. It doesn't make sense. I'll either use a 1/2" Union to connect the two whips to the 50 footer or maybe go with 1/2" automotive plug and couplers. The unions are free from work. The air fittings are expensive once you get that big.

 

[aczr2k]

Why would you want to drag around and use the 1/2 hose for normal use? 1/4 or 3/8 hose is much more flexible and way nicer for everyday use and unless your using the 3/4 impact to its full extent the 1/2 hose is really not needed, and to fully utilize your 3/4 impact your air compressor needs an upgrade. Only time the 3/4 impact and 1/2 hose comes out on our farm is for truck tires and tractor tires.

 

[md21722]

Why would you want to drag around and use the 1/2 hose for normal use? 1/4 or 3/8 hose is much more flexible and way nicer for everyday use and unless your using the 3/4 impact to its full extent the 1/2 hose is really not needed, and to fully utilize your 3/4 impact your air compressor needs an upgrade. Only time the 3/4 impact and 1/2 hose comes out on our farm is for truck tires and tractor tires.

I am wondering the same thing. For most air tools, 3/8" air hose gets the job done perfectly fine. 1/2" air hose is for big impact wrenches, large angle grinders, and stuff like that. Basically anything that uses close to or more than 40 CFM.

 

[gdocktor3]

Sorry I made a mistake. I don't mean using it like that. The 1/2" hose will be on a reel that is connected to the compressor. Then I have a 3/8" 25' footer that will plug into it to run the smaller tools. So when using small tools I will only be using the 3/8", but it will still be plugged into the larger hose. That's what I meant when I said using it for everything. I won't actually be dragging it around as it will remain coiled up on the reel unless I need a few extra feet.