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Does Rustoleum Pro aerosil ever dry?

6PTsocket

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After looking at my old, dead Ajax J139, 1 1/4 ton jack, for years, I finally completed the repairs and rebuild. The paint was in pretty good shape except the handle, that was repurposed as my cheater bar. I sanded off all the rust, used Evaporust and to be doubly sure, hit it with a little Eastwood rust remover (phosphoric acid). A coat of red Rustoleum rattle can Pro primer followed by a coat of the Rusto Pro rattle can safety yellow. I realized the paint was too thin in spots. They recommend recoating within an hr or wait at least 48. I waited more like 60. I laid on a good coat and it looks great. Over a week later I still smell solvent. It was in the basement and now it is sitting on the jack, in the garage. I don't want to mess it up checking for hardness. The air circulation is probably not that great in there and the humidity outside is not low but it will be in the 90s today. How long for this stuff to fully cure and reach maximum hardness? If I can smell it, I suspect I am not there yet. Thanks

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6PTsocket

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Thanks, guys. I'll give it a shot.

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Ign

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Rustoleum rattle cans are one that has to be shaken really, really well before use. How long did you shake after the ball started rattling?
 

cjarvis

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I’ve found that all rustoleum top coats take an inordinately long time to dry. As others have said - set it in the sun for a few days. It will cure eventually...
 

tym

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Yeah, I've found rattle can topcoats take about a week to cure fully.
 
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6PTsocket

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Rustoleum rattle cans are one that has to be shaken really, really well before use. How long did you shake after the ball started rattling?
A minute or better, like they suggest. I shook as hard as I could. It set up and feels dry but I am still smelling fresh paint. It is out in the sun for the next few days. It is supposed to hit 100° tomorrow and was in the high 90s today but no breeze. I hope the sun doesn't fade the color. UV is powerful stuff. I just want to get it as hard as it is going to get. Jack handles get banged around.

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Wamsutta

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After looking at my old, dead Ajax J139, 1 1/4 ton jack, for years, I finally completed the repairs and rebuild. The paint was in pretty good shape except the handle, that was repurposed as my cheater bar. I sanded off all the rust, used Evaporust and to be doubly sure, hit it with a little Eastwood rust remover (phosphoric acid). A coat of red Rustoleum rattle can Pro primer followed by a coat of the Rusto Pro rattle can safety yellow. I realized the paint was too thin in spots. They recommend recoating within an hr or wait at least 48. I waited more like 60. I laid on a good coat and it looks great. Over a week later I still smell solvent. It was in the basement and now it is sitting on the jack, in the garage. I don't want to mess it up checking for hardness. The air circulation is probably not that great in there and the humidity outside is not low but it will be in the 90s today. How long for this stuff to fully cure and reach maximum hardness? If I can smell it, I suspect I am not there yet. Thanks

That's your problem right there. The Evaporust and phosphoric acid is still in the metal upsetting the chemical composition/reaction of the paint. I found that out one day when I wiped something down with rubbing alcohol before painting; the paint didn't like it and gave me fisheyes. You must wipe it down with lacquer thinner before painting and nothing else.
 
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doublearon98

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Phosphoric acid doesn't dry; it stays in the metal forever unless it's neutralized.
What I meant by dry is the reaction of phosphoric acid converting iron oxide to iron sulfate. After this reaction has finished it makes the surface "dry". Scrap the white stuff off with a wire brush and it should be fine. If bubbling occurs it will need to be redone

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Skin

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I've had terrible luck with spray paint surfaces being durable unless they're baked. Just my experience.
 

DadsTools

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Yeah, I've found rattle can topcoats take about a week to cure fully.
This. In my experience, anything top-coated with spray paint takes a long time to cure. Duplicolor suggests a week for some of their topcoats for a true 'cure'. I'd say in some instances I've encountered, that's not even long enough. My rule of thumb is when you can't smell the paint anymore, so you know all the solvents have evaporated. I've seen that take several weeks. If the painted finish is going to be handled, plan on having the item sidelined for some time. But eventually it will dry.
 

mike93lx

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i redid my trailer with Rustoleum pro cans last year and it dried quite quickly and has held up great. I didn't encounter any of the issues people here are mentioning.

wire wheeled the rust, hit it with rusty metal primer and then top coated 2x.
 

Negen

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Since I live in Seattle now and we only get two days a year of sun shine give or take I put rattle can projects under those lights that turtle keepers use for heat. Seems good after two or three days.

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rlitman

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I’ve found that all rustoleum top coats take an inordinately long time to dry. As others have said - set it in the sun for a few days. It will cure eventually...

Regular Rustoleum takes much longer to dry than the Pro version. That's the main difference between the two. The Pro dries to the touch about as fast as Krylon, whereas the regular takes hours to dry to the touch.

Both are reasonably hard within a week, but it can take MONTHS for either to reach full hardness. Letting it bake in the sun will help a lot. Don't worry about the UV. It won't fade with just a few days exposure.

Since I live in Seattle now and we only get two days a year of sun shine give or take I put rattle can projects under those lights that turtle keepers use for heat. Seems good after two or three days.

Yep, it's the heat that does it.
 
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6PTsocket

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What I meant by dry is the reaction of phosphoric acid converting iron oxide to iron sulfate. After this reaction has finished it makes the surface "dry". Scrap the white stuff off with a wire brush and it should be fine. If bubbling occurs it will need to be redone

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Phosphoric acid converts porus iron oxide (rust) to less porus iron phosphate, which is black. There is no need to remove iron phosphate. It is the active ingredient in conversion coatings and self etching primers. I wiped the whole thing down with acetone before painting and it was bone dry before I primed. All acids etch good steel a little which can only improve adhesion. I took the advice I got here and put it in outside in the sun and the smell is definitely dissipating. I was only looking for a time frame to put it back in service without scratching off half the paint I know it will stop giving off VOCs eventually.

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doublearon98

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Phosphoric acid converts porus iron oxide (rust) to less porus iron phosphate, which is black. There is no need to remove iron phosphate. It is the active ingredient in conversion coatings and self etching primers. I wiped the whole thing down with acetone before painting and it was bone dry before I primed. All acids etch good steel a little which can only improve adhesion. I took the advice I got here and put it in outside in the sun and the smell is definitely dissipating. I was only looking for a time frame to put it back in service without scratching off half the paint I know it will stop giving off VOCs eventually.

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Ah iron phosphate, iron sulfate is fertilizer [emoji23]. Sometimes I get confused.

Anywho the rustoleum pro is awesome stuff. We did the frame on a 1950 chevy, holding up well so far to rocks and such (and brake fluid).

Only reason I mentioned brushing it off is some things we've done it has left some build up, doesn't affect anything but looks. And there is some white spots or at least there was on mine.

3 or so days and the sun and maybe a little light use a couple more days after and it should be hard.

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