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doing my own concrete polishing......

Michael10

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Feb 11, 2011
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I built an attached garage last year (actually the contractors built it but you know what I mean). I have not been able to find a contractor to polish the floor for less tha 13 per foot, so I was getting ready to put down porcelain tile.....

Until I discovered that the local ABC Rental place just bought a concrete polisher/grinder!!! It's so new in their system that they weren't able to quote me a price. I will call back in a couple of weeks to see how much. If it is $500 or under I will rent it. If it is a disaster I can always tile over the evidence.

I will post pics as this project unfolds.

If anybody has any suggestions as to technique with the grinder or anything else with polishing please let me know.......


Mike
 
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LegacyIndustrial

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Mike:

Grinding and Polishing is a methodical and lengthy process that is not mastered in an afternoon. Depending on what level of gloss you are shooting for, you will be changing heads/discs frequently.

You will also need to densify the floor at certain points to "close down" the surface.

Do your homework, ask the questions...

Dry or wet process?
Dust mitigation?
Do they supply all the discs/heads?
Are they included in the rental?
Is your concrete hard or soft?
How much grinding is required if any, prior to actual polishing?
How will you handle edging?
Will they give you a demonstration?

It is a great alternative to coatings but it needs to be done right to look good and last.

Good luck.
 

thegarageguy

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Polishing is a multi step process... First you need to figure out what your hardness level is to know what type of metal diamonds you start with. So let's figure, 6 grit metal diamonds, vac and clean, 25 grit metals, vac and clean, 100 grit, vac and clean, 150 metals, auto scrub...then go to your resin bonds...start on your 30 grit resin, auto scrub, 50 grit, auto sub, 100 grit, auto scrub, 200 grit, auto scrub and densify, 400 grit, auto scrub, 800 grit, auto scrub, 1500 grit, auto scrub, 3000 grit, auto scrub, apply guard and burnish.

So there you go, 24 steps if you count cleaning, 25 if you add color. Just so you know, a full set of diamonds run from $2500 to $5000, depending on machine and diamond manufacturer. BTW, there is a proper method to polishing in order not to get a wavy or uneven floor.

If you don't have the right machines, tools and proper training, you are throwing your money out the window.
 

tncatadjuster

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Memphis, TN
Polishing is a multi step process... First you need to figure out what your hardness level is to know what type of metal diamonds you start with. So let's figure, 6 grit metal diamonds, vac and clean, 25 grit metals, vac and clean, 100 grit, vac and clean, 150 metals, auto scrub...then go to your resin bonds...start on your 30 grit resin, auto scrub, 50 grit, auto sub, 100 grit, auto scrub, 200 grit, auto scrub and densify, 400 grit, auto scrub, 800 grit, auto scrub, 1500 grit, auto scrub, 3000 grit, auto scrub, apply guard and burnish.

So there you go, 24 steps if you count cleaning, 25 if you add color. Just so you know, a full set of diamonds run from $2500 to $5000, depending on machine and diamond manufacturer. BTW, there is a proper method to polishing in order not to get a wavy or uneven floor.

If you don't have the right machines, tools and proper training, you are throwing your money out the window.

Sounds like you're justifying pricing.:deadhorse :)
 
OP
M

Michael10

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Feb 11, 2011
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Thanks guys! Scotty, I will make sure to ask all those questions at the rental place. I am not sure how to test for concrete hardness, though -is there a tool for that?

Edger, thanks for the links. That gives me a good idea of how to do it, and thegarageguy gives me a good idea of how much work it will be! I hope I am not getting in over my head. The first sign of trouble ahead is when I think, before beginning the job, "How hard can it be?"
 
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thegarageguy

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Sounds like you're justifying pricing.:deadhorse :)

I didn't even mention a price...just trying to relay the original poster and anyone who reads this thread of the actual process. It's called positively contributing my friend...you should try it sometime ;)
 
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JamieK

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Winston-Salem, NC
Is this the process that Lowes/Home Depot has done to thir floors? Surely, they didn't pay that much and do something so labor intensive?
 

thegarageguy

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Most of there floors are power troweled, then topically polished, meaning high speed burnished with impregnated diamond pads.

The others are brought to a 400 grit, then burnished

Remember that there is a big difference between a well troweled, flat concrete and some typical garage floor that was poured with little care for finish.

I think they are paying 50 cents to 75 cents for a topical polish and $2 to $3 per sqft for a mechanical, but they are usually contracting 100,000 sqft plus
 

armstrr

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Apr 24, 2007
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Thanks guys! Scotty, I will make sure to ask all those questions at the rental place. I am not sure how to test for concrete hardness, though -is there a tool for that?

Edger, thanks for the links. That gives me a good idea of how to do it, and thegarageguy gives me a good idea of how much work it will be! I hope I am not getting in over my head. The first sign of trouble ahead is when I think, before beginning the job, "How hard can it be?"

so, i'm guessing you didn't go through with it...
 

venom50svt

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Mar 1, 2010
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Upstate Ny
I had an addition put on a slab, the contractor did the block and the floor. I wasn't there when he got done with the floor but it was a smooth as glass.
I suspect he used one of those concrete polishers as the final step... The slab was 16x24 so he couldn't of just used a 2x4 to float the top...
I also put 2" Dow board and a plastic vapor barrier beneath before he poured.
That Dow board really helped with the coldness in the floor...
 

Jagmandave

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Overland Park, Ks.
A fellow who's patient and knows how to run a power trowel can get a really smooth, polished looking surface - I've seen it done. But it takes a prefect storm of concrete mix, cure time, weather, temp, humidity and the above guy to really get good results.

It sounds to me like what the OP really is trying to do is knock off the high spots and smooth the floor out some, I think he should just tile over it as it sounds like a lot of work and questionable results otherwise, based on the expert's replies.
 
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