I'm wanting to install automatic closet lighting in my house (existing construction) with the preferred method being which ever method would be the easiest. This is a 3 level split with all 5 closets on the same level within roughly a 16 to 20 ft radius as far as accessing the framing foot print of all of them. Coming down from the attic into each closet would probably be the easiest access but access from below is a possibility. As far as wiring it the 120v route I'm totally up to that task but I know incorporating those hidden 120v switches in the door jambs is going to be a major pain I would prefer to avoid. I'm not familiar with low voltage equipment or all this modern smart home technology and with that said I haven't been able to find much info at all on what I need if I go the low voltage route. My first concern is sourcing what I need as far as quality components and proper wiring so if you guys would be so kind could you point me in the right direction Please and Thank you? I'm hoping I can run all these closets off the same transformer because that would make things simpler and cheaper maybe? As in all circuits watts and distance comes into play as far as what I'm hoping to accomplish so let me down easy if low voltage is going to cost more than it's worth. Thanks in advance.
Door Activated Closet Lighting 120v vs Low Voltage Options
- Thread starter i4ni
- Start date
sparky 1971
Well-known member
It's not clear. Do you already have closet lighting and want to make it automatic or are you needing to add lighting and while you're at it make it automatic? Either way, I think the easiest is going to be putting motion sensors in the closet whether it's replacing an existing switch or putting it in the ceiling or on the fixture depending on what you have or will get. Those door jamb switches are a ***** and if the door doesn't get closed (kids, wife), the light doesn't shut off.
No lighting at all. I've kinda considered motion sensors but the closets are about a foot wider inside than the doors on each side so i wondered if placement might be an issue. they would have to be mounted well above the height of the hanger bar because the closets aren't deep enough to mount them lower. I guess as long as the field of view was un-obstructed they should work, right? I'll have to think that option though. Thanks
sparky 1971
Well-known member
This is just the first thing that came up with a "ceiling mounted motion sensor" google search. I'm sure there are others for more or less money, but Intermatic is a good brand.
360 Deg. Dual-Tech Occupancy Sensor - Passive Infrared (PIR) and Ultrasonic
Why pay more for Intermatic's IOS-CMP-DT-U line voltage occupancy sensor when you can shop at 1000Bulbs.com for less? Visit our website for exclusive offers!
I kinda got hung up on the door switch setup and didn't think the motion sensor through but I'm glad you brought that up. Originally I was thinking of coming from below so I thought of wall mounting the light but coming down from the attic and using the motion sensor will be much easier. I have adhd so I bounce from one idea to the next allmost non stop so staying focused very long is not exactly my superpower lol. I can probably find a Levington or something similar for $20 or $30. Thanks againThis is just the first thing that came up with a "ceiling mounted motion sensor" google search. I'm sure there are others for more or less money, but Intermatic is a good brand.
360 Deg. Dual-Tech Occupancy Sensor - Passive Infrared (PIR) and Ultrasonic
Why pay more for Intermatic's IOS-CMP-DT-U line voltage occupancy sensor when you can shop at 1000Bulbs.com for less? Visit our website for exclusive offers!www.1000bulbs.com
tons of led strips with motion sensors out there:
I just did this in our coat closet; 12V LED pluggable strips.
Everything came from Superbrightleds.com:
Motion detector switch:
www.superbrightleds.com
(2) @ 39 inches, and (1) @ 24 inches :
https://www.superbrightleds.com/aluminum-led-light-bar-fixture-low-profile-surface-mount
Power supply:
www.superbrightleds.com
And a couple male & female wire-to-plug adapters
www.superbrightleds.com
www.superbrightleds.com
Last, I needed a few feet of 22 ga. wire.
Also, I tapped off an outlet on the other side of the wall from the closet, and put in a duplex box for the power supply.
Mounted the strips on the inside wall of the closet, one on each side and one above the door (the 24" strip), and the switch is on the latch side of the frame, up in the corner, facing down. Wired up power supply, (which comes with a coaxial plug) to the detector, then daisy chained the lights. Set the off delay for 10 seconds.
Wife loves it. Absolutely. I also did the same thing in a lazy susan corner cabinet in the kitchen. Winner, winner, you can see what you're using to make dinner.
Everything came from Superbrightleds.com:
Motion detector switch:
Mini PIR Motion Sensor Switch with Built In Timer - 12-24 VDC - 6 Amps - Mini PIR switch
This Mini PIR Sensor automatically powers on connected 12 VDC or 24 VDC LED lights when human motion is detected. The sensors will power on lights at night or during the day, and an adjustable dial allows your lights to remain on for 1, 3, 5, 8, or 10 minutes. Motion detection range is with in 8...
(2) @ 39 inches, and (1) @ 24 inches :
https://www.superbrightleds.com/aluminum-led-light-bar-fixture-low-profile-surface-mount
Power supply:
DiodeDrive® Desktop AC Power Adapter - 12 VDC Switching Power Supply - 60W-120W
CPS series Power Adaptor from DiodeDrive provides power for 12 VDC systems, in either 60 or 120-watts. The reliable Class II device has a fully enclosed plastic case and protection against short circuit and overload. 2-pin 120 VAC input. 5.5-mm barrel connector for easy powering.
And a couple male & female wire-to-plug adapters
CPS-x2ST Standard Barrel Connector to Screw Terminal Adapter - Female Standard 5mm Connector to Screw Terminal Adapter
CPS-x2ST standard 5.5mm male or female barrel connector to screw terminal adapter. CPS-F2ST adapter allows products with pigtail power connections to be powered by CPS series power supplies.
CPS-x2ST Standard Barrel Connector to Screw Terminal Adapter - Male Standard 5mm Connector to Screw Terminal Adapter
CPS-x2ST standard 5.5mm male or female barrel connector to screw terminal adapter. CPS-F2ST adapter allows products with pigtail power connections to be powered by CPS series power supplies.
Last, I needed a few feet of 22 ga. wire.
Also, I tapped off an outlet on the other side of the wall from the closet, and put in a duplex box for the power supply.
Mounted the strips on the inside wall of the closet, one on each side and one above the door (the 24" strip), and the switch is on the latch side of the frame, up in the corner, facing down. Wired up power supply, (which comes with a coaxial plug) to the detector, then daisy chained the lights. Set the off delay for 10 seconds.
Wife loves it. Absolutely. I also did the same thing in a lazy susan corner cabinet in the kitchen. Winner, winner, you can see what you're using to make dinner.
nickelTwin
Well-known member
nickelTwin
Well-known member
I used an led shop light with a built in motion sensor.
works great
works great
nickelTwin
Well-known member
It's super bright and turns it self off after about a minute with no motion.
you can always look up "occupancy sensors" or "overhead occupancy sensors".... or "motion sensor bulbs". I have some thing from costco that have motion sensing, color changing and even a wireless remote. Install just like a regular fixture. $20 then, not sure if they still sells them since Costco stuff is seasonal sometimes.
dave*99
Well-known member
I saw a pantry closet that has a receptacle to charge a cordless vacuum. The closet was the typical 2' deep type with lots of shelves. It had this with a LED bulb. It was mounted at the top of the door frame in the center. Ugly but effective.
