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Door casing height from floor question

TT_Vert

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I've framed a basement and am getting ready for carpet. I've done research on baseboard before/after carpet and to risk getting new carpet dirty i'm going to install the base before. From what I've read, 3/8" above the floor is what I want. Should I install the door casing before carpet as well and should that gap also be 3/8"?
Thanks guys


Dave
 
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TT_Vert

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yes to both. but keep in mind that the casing may split when they tuck the carpet etc . especially if it's thin flimsy etc. baseboard up 3/8 too

How would the casing split? The action of tucking it under bends it or is it because the installer is careless and hits it?


Dave
 

The Cobbler

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careless? I don't know. maybe,but because casing tends to be thinner with not alot of strength it can easily split on the end with some force. I imagine if you sure to have a few nails near the bottom edge it would reduce the chance too . sometimes when they tuck the carpet there's a fair bit of force needed
 
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TT_Vert

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I currently have the door jamb to the floor, i was hoping the carpet installers would undercut it. Is that normally part of what they do? If not, I can undercut the to 3/8"


Dave
 
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yeldogt

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With a basement I normally do the door casing and jam almost to the floor. Baseboard a tad higher. If it's on a slab -- make sure to paint the ends of the casing and jam. You don't want any moisture to wick into the jam or casing as it can affect the finish. Since basement carpet is normally thin I take a thick ruler or even better a piece of vinyl tile to keep the jam and casing just off the slab when it's being attached. The baseboard can be a bit higher ... say 3/8 inch .. no point in hiding it. Typically, pre-hung doors have some extra length on the jam for this adjustment. Basement carpet -- industrial that I use has the backing/pad attached. If you raise the jam the door may have too big a gap --

Now -- if it's really thick carpet/pad. Raise the baseboard a bit more. My apartment in the city has thick padding and wool carpet. Everything was based on the height of the pad -- The doors were custom so we had the jams made longer to fit the padding.

A good builder factors all of these things ... I can't tell you how many times I have encountered new apartments in the city with doors that had to be cut to fit thick flooring products. Standard pre-hung jams don't always have enough length if the carpet is thick. They have to be raised.

In either case ... If standard baseboard is used .. it's not very wide to begin with .. if you don't raise it up the base looks like a thin strip on the floor.

Another thing to consider is if you are doing any other floor covering -- vinyl tile or even thin manufactured flooring you don't want a gap on the jam if you set it up for carpet and they meet.
 

wrenchguy

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I have an oscillating saw so I can probably use some 3/8" ply as a template for height.
Dave
Not now, leave it bear to floor. U should've put 1/2" under hinge jamb when installing. Capet guys don't tuck under hinge jamb if door frame is install right. Other side prolly not either. Ur door is gonna drag carpet. Not code here!:lol_hitti
 
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TT_Vert

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I would call the carpet guys and see what they have to say.

I have tried but it seems they are out due to this corona virus BS. I'm hoping to get this trim done this weekend.

With a basement I normally do the door casing and jam almost to the floor. Baseboard a tad higher. If it's on a slab -- make sure to paint the ends of the casing and jam. You don't want any moisture to wick into the jam or casing as it can affect the finish. Since basement carpet is normally thin I take a thick ruler or even better a piece of vinyl tile to keep the jam and casing just off the slab when it's being attached. The baseboard can be a bit higher ... say 3/8 inch .. no point in hiding it. Typically, pre-hung doors have some extra length on the jam for this adjustment. Basement carpet -- industrial that I use has the backing/pad attached. If you raise the jam the door may have too big a gap --

Now -- if it's really thick carpet/pad. Raise the baseboard a bit more. My apartment in the city has thick padding and wool carpet. Everything was based on the height of the pad -- The doors were custom so we had the jams made longer to fit the padding.

A good builder factors all of these things ... I can't tell you how many times I have encountered new apartments in the city with doors that had to be cut to fit thick flooring products. Standard pre-hung jams don't always have enough length if the carpet is thick. They have to be raised.

In either case ... If standard baseboard is used .. it's not very wide to begin with .. if you don't raise it up the base looks like a thin strip on the floor.

Another thing to consider is if you are doing any other floor covering -- vinyl tile or even thin manufactured flooring you don't want a gap on the jam if you set it up for carpet and they meet.

The carpet is not thin carpet, it's regular height carpet. The pad is 3/8" I believe. I went w/ Luna carpet (Illinois carpet installer) and they only sell one type of padding. I have the bottom of the doors 1 1/4" off the slab to compensate for padding and carpet and leaving a slight gap. I can always cut the bottom of the door a tad if it comes down to it.

I am doing no other floor covering. I have on large room w 5 doors. Each of those doors enter rooms that will remain slab. 1 is for my service panel, 1 for the sump, 1 for a closet and 2 for either side of a storage room.

Not now, leave it bear to floor. U should've put 1/2" under hinge jamb when installing. Capet guys don't tuck under hinge jamb if door frame is install right. Other side prolly not either. Ur door is gonna drag carpet. Not code here!:lol_hitti

I can easily undercut the jambs if they need to be. I'm not a carpet installer so I wasn't sure if they needed that and quite honestly I hadn't thought about it when installing. All doors are 7/8" off the slab which should be fine once the padding and carpet are down. What do you mean carpet guys don't tuck under hinge jamb if door frame is installed right? They just **** right up to the jamb?
 
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wrenchguy

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yep because the hinge jamb should bear(weight) to floor. 99.9% done too both jams, only time my guess tucked under is when strike jamb is way up. remember tacstrip is about a 1/2" +- away from trim. If ur doors swing into not carpeted areas leave jambs on the floor.
 
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TT_Vert

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Any other opinions? I'm going to hopefully do this tomorrow. What is everyone opinion on tucking carpet under jambs vs. not doing so? I always thought you undercut jambs for the carpet but perhaps not?

Thanks
Dave
 
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wrenchguy

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Not. Ur over engineering it. Ur installers will say it don't matter, 2me "builder correct" trumps carpet installers. I'm surprised they aren't any rug layers here.
You haven't mentioned ur door swing. Theres a specific reason i ask this.
 
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TT_Vert

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All doors will swing over carpet. Which is why I have them 1.5" above floor level. I just went ahead and installed the base today 3/8" above the concrete floor. I did not undercut the jambs as I'm not sure if this is something I need to do or not.

Dave
 

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TT_Vert

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you don't need to undercut the jambs. nice space there

Excellent, thank you. Yeah it's a very large space. Wifey wants to use it for a game room so I had to teach myself to frame a wall and then do the rest. With the help of youtube everything came out square and plumb. Learned a ton doing this project.

Dave
 
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TT_Vert

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Since I"m asking questions, I have one more. I have one more piece of trim I will have to put up. I have it cut but i'm unsure what the carpet guys will need for clearance. They are going to wrap the stair to the concrete. They will also be carpeting all the way to the edge of the landing you see here on both sides. I just don't know If I should leave my trim as it is (all the way to the landing riser) or if i should cut it back some for them to allow the carpet to run along the wall w/o having my trim in the way. What do you guys think?

Thanks
Dave
 

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TT_Vert

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I sort of assumed they'd be coming in at an angle from the top step down to the base of the concrete no? Or do they wrap it tight to the edge of the stair and the riser?

Dave
 

The Cobbler

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depends on what you ask for /what they do. both ways are common, but I think it looks better to wrap the nosing , then come down the riser than to come straight off the nosing on an angle ( it is less work to do than wrap)
 
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TT_Vert

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I agree, I'll just ask them to do that. When they do that, do they use separate pieces for each stair?
Dave
 
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TT_Vert

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Ok, I Just don't want to put myself in a situation where the installer says tear out the base. Nobody is returning my calls from the place so I have to assume they are closed for now.
 
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