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Door latch catching on wall

DavidMCO

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Feb 13, 2018
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8
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Upstate NY
In trying to insulate and frame my basement, my sheetrock sticks out a bit too far and is being hit by my door latch.

What're my options for trying to resolve this? Somehow recess the area? Add a large strike plate?

IMG_1132.jpeg
 
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CJ7VFR

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Central New Jersey
How big is the gap between the door and the frame at the side where the lockset/door knob is when the door is closed? It appears that the door latch is not only hitting the new drywall, but has also been hitting the blue/gray part of the door frame as well.

It sounds like the door might be too close to the frame on the lockset/door knob side. If the door is tight on the lockset side, then maybe you can adjust the gap and move the door more towards the hinge side by recessing the hinges in either the door or the door frame.

Can you post a picture of the door when it is closed so we can see the gap?

Jim
 

toolmiser

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La Crosse, WI
Maybe not the best solution, but you could install a "dummy knob" that doesn't use a striker, and use a couple magnets to hold the door shut. If it is a bathroom, you will have to find some sort of "lock".
 

kwschumm

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Olympia, WA
Does the door side have one of those stupid drive-in retainers around the throw bolt? Those things should be banned, they inch their way out and damage the mating side.
 

finn

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The UP, God's country
Rip out the 1/2” Sheetrock and replace it with 3/8”. That may give you enough clearance.

Is there any slop in the bore such that the knob could be cheated towards the hinge side?
 

slowTA

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Mar 18, 2009
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Morris County, NJ
I would section the sheet rock in that area. Cut out a 1" tall strip and spackle so that it looks like a long ramp leading to the door frame. Sand it smooth and it will look like you meant for it to be there.
 
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DavidMCO

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Feb 13, 2018
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Location
Upstate NY
Maybe not the best solution, but you could install a "dummy knob" that doesn't use a striker, and use a couple magnets to hold the door shut. If it is a bathroom, you will have to find some sort of "lock".

That's a great idea I hadn't thought of—had one in my previous house that was actually nice, especially with full-hands.
 

CJ7VFR

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Central New Jersey
Attached.

IMG_1142.jpg

The gap looks good in the picture.

Others have given you some good things to look at and try. If you don't want to go ripping everything out and redoing stuff.

I like the idea of just getting a longer strike plate, or making one of your own out of a piece of brass sheet or something.

Jim
 
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DavidMCO

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Feb 13, 2018
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Upstate NY
Not much of a gap on the hinge-side, and the hinges are already decently recessed so I don't think I can get much more room.

Yeah certainly hoping to not tear anything out, especially since it's already been all prepped for paint. Will probably go with the magnetic latch or a strike plate.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Northern Central Ohio
Not much of a gap on the hinge-side, and the hinges are already decently recessed so I don't think I can get much more room.

Yeah certainly hoping to not tear anything out, especially since it's already been all prepped for paint. Will probably go with the magnetic latch or a strike plate.

Prepped for paint but you still need to fix that drywall where the striker/bolt has hit it. You might as well do it right and fix it properly.
 

73fxe

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Jun 11, 2016
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SW. Michigan
If it is a 36" door find a 34" door and frame. If You don't fix it right you will regret it later.
 

jetnow1

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Jun 27, 2016
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CT.
Rip out the 1/2” Sheetrock and replace it with 3/8”. That may give you enough clearance.

Is there any slop in the bore such that the knob could be cheated towards the hinge side?

Might be a problem to do this if wall needs fire protection. I would just spackel
the damage, then put a piece of brass over it to protect it.
 

bmwpowere36m3

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Nov 8, 2012
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It simply framed incorrectly... why is the finished wall basically flush with the jamb? Move the wall return over or the door is the right solution.
 

joes99

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Jun 17, 2017
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Location
Smyrna, GA
I have added a 2" strap of flat steel to drywall in a basement that was built with 8" granite stone and the opening couldn't be easily opened up. The latch will slide along the steel to the strike plate easily
 

Tractorsellr

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Oct 25, 2016
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Tx
I would remove the lockset and replace it with a deadbolt lock. Install a pull above the lock. If you want the door to stay shut install a light duty door closer. If that latch bolt continues to impact the drywall it will fail, the dead latch on the bolt with get wore out and then a credit card can open the door easily. Other choice would be to attach a thin plate and replace the lockset with a Grade 1 lock that will hold up from striking the plate before it enters the strike plate.
 

Kenta

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Jan 12, 2013
Messages
53
The OP said it's in a finished basement, so if it's an interior door, how about switching to a double action door hinge? Would be handy to push through the door in either direction with your hands full and will auto close. Could probably put a metal plate to cover up the hole from the handle on either side.
 

Marctrees

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Mar 5, 2015
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TX/LA border - Toledo Bend
I have added a 2" strap of flat steel to drywall in a basement that was built with 8" granite stone and the opening couldn't be easily opened up. The latch will slide along the steel to the strike plate easily


Yup, easiest and just fine solution.

Could be brushed stainless maybe free from a fabricator's dumpster. or whatever.

Marc
 

Pate

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Oct 16, 2007
Messages
731
Location
New York
I know we sell Don Jo brand strike plates that have an extended lip for just this issue.
 
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