Door opener question

[JamieK]

After seeing the 6 second video, I think I'm going to install a cross latch on my garage door or at least padlocks on the rails. But I know I will forget to release the locks some time and hit the opener. Whats going to happen? Does the opener have a clutch that will slip before anything breaks?

 

[nehog]

most (modern) openers have block sensors that monitor motor current and will stop the cycle if current is too high. This is done for the very reason you describe!

But, a properly installed opener should press the top of the door to the header *tight* so that it is virtually impossible to get anything in there.

 

[HemiRambler]

I thought about this today as well. What I came up with is to tap off the Opener's Light circuit and have that run a 120V solenoid that is spring loaded as a cross latch. I have to search the surplus place and see if I can find a solenoid now.

 

[Torque1st]

I thought about this today as well. What I came up with is to tap off the Opener's Light circuit and have that run a 120V solenoid that is spring loaded as a cross latch. I have to search the surplus place and see if I can find a solenoid now.

That is cheating!

 

[OSB]

Garage Monkey??

<embed id=VideoPlayback src=http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?docid=-2286857153166840371&hl=en&fs=true style=width:400px;height:326px allowFullScreen=true allowScriptAccess=always type=application/x-shockwave-flash> </embed>

 

[Schtauffer]

Many operators have an RPM sensor. The motor must run a little until it senses that something is wrong. What is likely to happen in the scenario you described is that the top panel of the garage door will bend some, the bracket attached to the top panel will want to come off the door, and things will just be very bad.

You can wire in an interlock switch if you are handy with electrical. This is a switch with paddle that mounts on the garage door track which activates a microswitch when the paddle is pushed over by a dead-bolt style garage door lock. Here is a link, IS-2 is the one you want: http://mmtcinc.com/interlock_switches.html

And use this 3" side lock: http://www.re-sourceind.com/index.php?p=content_scripted/catalog_data&data=I&page=2

For a residential operator, you would have to wire in this interlock with the wall station wire in a normally closed circuit. When the lock would be engaged it would break the circuit, making the wall button non-functional. Your remote control would still work; unless you have a piggyback radio receiver you probably won't have a way around that.

Good luck.

 

[nehog]

Many operators have an RPM sensor. The motor must run a little until it senses that something is wrong. What is likely to happen in the scenario you described is that the top panel of the garage door will bend some, the bracket attached to the top panel will want to come off the door, and things will just be very bad....

Reminds me of what happens when the door freezes to the floor in the winter. Yes, it does slightly bow the top panel (it will snap back OK). But, it does stop before permanent damage is done.

 

[tcianci]

I thought about this today as well. What I came up with is to tap off the Opener's Light circuit and have that run a 120V solenoid that is spring loaded as a cross latch. I have to search the surplus place and see if I can find a solenoid now.

Good concept but 1 caveat: In the set up that you envision, the door operator and the solenoid would engage at the same time so there is still a chance that the operator will be yanking against the solenoid operated slide latch and possibly even bind the latch. Nearly every modern opener has a current sensing circuit that stops the operator if it senses excessive current. On most operators that current level is adjustable and the adjustment is called opening force and closing force.

 

[HemiRambler]

I wondered if this might be a problem - my solution would be to simply make the hole a SLOT - problem solved.

Good concept but 1 caveat: In the set up that you envision, the door operator and the solenoid would engage at the same time so there is still a chance that the operator will be yanking against the solenoid operated slide latch and possibly even bind the latch. Nearly every modern opener has a current sensing circuit that stops the operator if it senses excessive current. On most operators that current level is adjustable and the adjustment is called opening force and closing force.

 

[evil_twin]

That switch idea sounds like a great idea. I wonder how well that would work.

 

[onewaydave]

Just pop the disconnect when you padlock the rail. That way when you hit the open button and nothing happens, you remember to go remove the padlock.

Damn theives. Make us circumvent the convenience engineered into todays products that make live so pleasant.

Like the garage monkey though.

Dave.