Doorbell wiring

[Reit38]

So our house has 2 doorbells. The front one was hooked up to a camera that functioned correctly. Tonight I tried hooking up one one the rear door. Some how I managed to knock out the power to the front door and now I have no power to either door. Any quick help on which wires would go where on the transformer? I've never dealt with doorbells before. The 2 wires that are still hooked up were always hooked up. Just cant figure out all the others

 

[dogdog]

You might need a bigger transformer, I can’t tel L what voltage it is other than 20va and it have 3 voltage outputs At 24v 16v and 8v the C is common for those 3 voltages.

20va is pretty weak at 16v it’s barely 1.25amp , probably won’t power up 2 camera and door bells.

Find out what total voltage amp requirements for your camera and door bell needs and over size it by at least 20% and get a new transformer.

I used a 24v one from hvac @40va off eBay for $10. but ymmv you know you and you do you situation.

If you need to test your current transformer.

Get a multimeter put in ac voltage mode, one probe to the C terminal and verify the corresponding terminal output the correct voltage.


Yes you have a chance of burning up a transformer by overloading. ( should clarify this, it should read your transformer could have go bad from overloading as well, troubleshooting starts with testing voltage output.)

 

[dcg9381]

Having just done a house with 2 separate residences: You need a signal tracer.
I found that our "apartment" wiring got slices somewhere after drywall. There was no continuity between the control unit and transformer. I had continuity between the transformer and button, so I just killed the LED in the button and added a battery pack.

My alternative was pulling the stair railing, pulling the drywall, having it all re-textured, having it all repainted, and then "hoping" all these trades did it right..

 

[Innovate1]

First test that the transformer has output voltage - you may have damaged it by overloading. Although that doesn't really matter as it looks like you need a larger transformer. Here's a Ring page on wiring for various setups - other brands should be very similar. It recommends 30VA for 2 cameras. Bigger is better so going to 40VA would be fine. 16 V is common for doorbell setups. Before going to 24V I would check that the cameras can take it. I would stick with 16V with larger VA if you want to keep the existing bell.
https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/a...ng-Diagrams-for-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Pro-Setup

That's a lot of wires! Was the rear push button working the bell properly before trying the camera? If so you should be able to just use the same connections. If not you need to figure out what wires go where. You could, with the transformer disconnected, short the wires at one end of the runs and use an ohmmeter to measure resistance at the other ends. With multiple tests you should be able to figure out which wires go where.

 

[Reit38]

Here's the specs for the doorbell cameras

 

[slimpickins]

Your transformer is barely big enough. It's rated 20VA which would mean you're drawing 100% of it's rated power to run 2 cameras that are rated at 10VA each. Get a bigger transformer as has been suggested or get a separate transformer for the second doorbell. Then follow the advice above to trace your wires with an ohmmeter.
SP

 

[dogdog]

Yes that and just remember transformers are not 100% efficient especially door bell ones.

also forgot to mention the voltage drops... on thinner smaller wires. So, as long as your wiring are in good shape, going 24Vac might be a good idea anyways.

 

[Reit38]

I went ahead and ordered this transformer.

so I just hook one of the 2 wire to each post for each camera. Does it matter which one goes to which post

 

[dogdog]

should be decent, it says Class3 transformer.. if it is really a Class3... unless it hums , when you first install it, and it hums I mean, then go and return it. Huming too loud, not a little hum indicated de-laminated transformer... also bad quality.

As far as which wire is which goes where, not really it's AC. and supposed to be isolated from high voltage. but just so you don't confuse with other in a birds nest of wires, you should really define a C ( common ) and H or R ( for the hot wire) you designated it, so you won't short them ... and a small fuse maybe on the high voltage side... There is already a marking... C and R there....

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