Double Bypass hanging barn doors

[Salmonkiller78]

I’m looking at having a metal-carport built on my property.
The building will be fully enclosed, both the sides and the back.
Size will be 24’ wide x 36’ long x 12’ tall walls.
My plan is to add two 12’ wide by 12’ tall hanging barn doors on a double track system. The doors will be able to slide behind one another so I can access either side of the building.
I plan to frame the doors out of wood or have the fabricated out of metal. I will use the same sheet metal siding to sheet the hanging doors.
Has anyone done a project like this with using double track system?

Thanks for your help.

 

[Partsguy57]

I’m looking at having a metal-carport built on my property.

The building will be fully enclosed, both the sides and the back.

Size will be 24’ wide x 36’ long x 12’ tall walls.

My plan is to add two 12’ wide by 12’ tall hanging barn doors on a double track system. The doors will be able to slide behind one another so I can access either side of the building.

I plan to frame the doors out of wood or have the fabricated out of metal. I will use the same sheet metal siding to sheet the hanging doors.

Has anyone done a project like this with using double track system?



Thanks for your help.

Sold my last house a short time ago. ( with a very large shop)New house has a small shop I remodeled (24x36 12 foot ceiling) until I build a new much larger shop. The shop had the doors you describe.... I hated them. First thing I did was tear them off. I went with a single door 16 foot insulated with a very nice lift motor. I would not recommend at all. Might be okay for a barn, but for a shop no way in my opinion. ( you can sort of see the new door I installed in the pic)

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[Salmonkiller78]

Sold my last house a short time ago. ( with a very large shop)New house has a small shop I remodeled (24x36 12 foot ceiling) until I build a new much larger shop. The shop had the doors you describe.... I hated them. First thing I did was tear them off. I went with a single door 16 foot insulated with a very nice lift motor. I would not recommend at all. Might be okay for a barn, but for a shop no way in my opinion. ( you can sort of see the new door I installed in the pic)

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It's more of a storage barn for my boat and RV than a shop.. it would have a separate single man door also. The height needs to be 12' A roll up door would not allow me to get my RV into the building (clearance issue),

 

[Partsguy57]

It's more of a storage barn for my boat and RV that a shop.. it would have a separate single man door also. The height needs to be 12' A roll up door would not allow me to get my RV into the building (clearance issue),

Unless you extend the rail past the shop you will only have a "half door" open. If it were me I'd go 14 ft ceiling and a traditional door. My last shop was 14 foot ceiling and worked well...next shop will be 16 foot ceilings though. You never know what the future my hold, you may have a different need. Spend a little more and get far more bang for the buck. ( my last shop, new will be similar with one more stall)

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[LXCam]

Solely based off that picture.

Your biggest issue with be supporting the weight. Because of the span and the fact that framing system won't support a couple extra hundred pounds at the center point plus you not wanting to reduce the head height you're pretty much limited to a lightweight door, basically 1-1/2" x 1/8" angle iron frame with some flat bar diagonals and metal siding. You could use unistrut as the roller channel and their roller system. It'd be pretty easy to make if you have a welder but you could always bolt it together with some corner pieces of 6" x 1/8" plate cut on 45 degree diagonal.


One other piece of advice. If this system looks like a winner I'd make sure to use 20ft sticks of the 3-1/4" channel centered in the opening and splice the wings, this will make a huge difference mitigating sag at the center point.

 

[Salmonkiller78]

Your biggest issue with be supporting the weight. Because of the span and the fact that framing system won't support a couple extra hundred pounds at the center point

I have thought about this too... I was thinking i could add a support post in the middle if needed.

 

[LXCam]

I have thought about this too... I was thinking i could add a support post in the middle if needed.

You could and it'd sure make all the difference in the world for your door construction.

Btw, I forgot to add the link so here ya go if you aren't familiar with it

 

[LXCam]

Rethinking this and if you wanted to eliminate a center post and if you had no plans on cabinets or work benches for the sides. You could throw some time and money at something like this.

 

[86turbodsl]

Those side type doors are popular in the UK. They don't work worth a darn in the north with snow though.

 

[kbs2244]

I had them for years for the DDs
They do not seal real well

No way to hook up openers.
But the kids were younger then.

For storage they will be fine.
Even with a center post.

Be sure you secure the hardware well.
Doors can be surprisingly heavy

 

[Partsguy57]

I still stand by my original post... they ****... go 14 foot ceiling and put in a traditional door.. a little more money much better in the long run as far as useable building if things change. Another negative is they don't seal well which means mice rats squirrels etc which is a big problem here in southern oregon. Cheers

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The

 

[wrenchguy]

I’m looking at having a metal-carport built on my property.
The building will be fully enclosed, both the sides and the back.
Size will be 24’ wide x 36’ long x 12’ tall walls.
My plan is to add two 12’ wide by 12’ tall hanging barn doors on a double track system. The doors will be able to slide behind one another so I can access either side of the building.
I plan to frame the doors out of wood or have the fabricated out of metal. I will use the same sheet metal siding to sheet the hanging doors.
Has anyone done a project like this with using double track system?

Thanks for your help.

yes, i have the exact setup right outside now, built it 25 years ago. works perfect 4 me.

there are comments here that apply, especially the end truss taking the added weight.

doors like this are used often on aircraft hangers with the tracks sticking out the ends of the building.

 

[LifeLongWNYer]

I have an "lean-to" type storage area on the side of my garage, about 24' long, by 8' front the open edge to the garage wall. It is divided into 1/3rd's with a two 6x6's in the open side, and arched openings, attempting to give it an old carriage house look. I became sick of having to clean snow and leaves out of it, so I made two doors to close up two sections of it. When I open either one, or both, of the doors in front of the closed section, they slide over the normally open third section.

I framed the doors, each 8' x 8', of 2x4's, and covered with them with plywood, then trimmed with 1x3" pine to frame each door, so it looks like it is two.

I bought barn door track from Central Tractor, now called Tractor Supply, but it was made by National Hardware, and is available in other place.

It all went together, but as you might suspect, the doors are heavy, and I had quite a time standing them up, then lifting them while I finished installing the rollers on the leaves.

The track ( and the doors ) have worked out well, it all is about 5 years old, and no problems have surfaced. The doors roll easily, although when you start moving them, you are aware that they are heavy.

PS: If anyone is interested, and sends me instructions on how to get pictures into a posting on here, I'll put a couple of pictures up.



.

 

[Salmonkiller78]

yes, i have the exact setup right outside now, built it 25 years ago. works perfect 4 me.

there are comments here that apply, especially the end truss taking the added weight.

doors like this are used often on aircraft hangers with the tracks sticking out the ends of the building.

This is exactly what i have been envisioning !! Thanks WrenchGuy !