Double flaring tool recommended
- Thread starter J king
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BigEd
Well-known member
Look at Summit, Jegs, Speedway.
They all have flaring tools.
They all have flaring tools.
RacerX
Well-known member
I finally broke down and bought the master cool hydraulic set. Tired of the cheaper sets slipping and messing up the tube ends no matter how tight you had it.
Been happy with the quality of the flares and no more wasted tubing.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Been happy with the quality of the flares and no more wasted tubing.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Buckgnarly
Well-known member
Mastercool
Eastwood
Ridgid
In order of nicest, but almost most expensive!
Eastwood
Ridgid
In order of nicest, but almost most expensive!
WWheeler
Well-known member
Hands down Eastwood's bench and on-the-car flaring tools have worked best for us. For 'just a hobbyist' the latter will do the trick.
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jniolon
Well-known member
I got MasterCool also... cured all my bad flares... Rigid also makes a good one that doesn't slip and easy to use...
john
john
Eastwood sets are hands down the best... in quality and price...if you are just looking for flares.... the Mastercool set does more.
These days, you really needed a set that does bubble flares for brakes... even thought some people says you can do bubble flare from a double flare ... requires a lot of practice.....
Only thing I don't like about the Eastwood set is that it has to be mounted on a vise for it to be effective.... I think some one has cnc cut their own spanner to man handle it under the car...
If you are doing hydraulics it's a different sets... I think both eastwood and mastercool sells as extra add-on.
These days, you really needed a set that does bubble flares for brakes... even thought some people says you can do bubble flare from a double flare ... requires a lot of practice.....
Only thing I don't like about the Eastwood set is that it has to be mounted on a vise for it to be effective.... I think some one has cnc cut their own spanner to man handle it under the car...
If you are doing hydraulics it's a different sets... I think both eastwood and mastercool sells as extra add-on.
joe_padavano
Well-known member
That "Eastwood" tool isn't exclusive to Eastwood. Many vendors sell the exact same tool - just without the "Eastwood" sticker. I got mine from Inline Tube - I bought their display model at the Carlisle swap meet one year for a good savings. As others have said, I highly recommend this tool. You can't make a bad flare with it. Shop around, however, don't just look at Eastwood.
X3 or 4 on the mastercool, having different sets thru the years the mastercool works great.
When doing brakelines get the nickle copper way easeier to work with.
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sberry
Banned
I havnt used top machines but simple screw sets. I have a couple, central and blue point. I had Rigid of the same type that was about 30 for the basic plus a little for bits. If I was starting over it would be the set. I can use the tool and make good fittings and do use it on occasion. I can get by on it but stock some stuff. I got no problem with ready made and a union once in a while, I do it as easy as I can and make one when I got to.
If I used it once a day or even once a week an ultimate tool would be worth it but for one off simple works for me and I think one of them single flare 5/8 too.
If I used it once a day or even once a week an ultimate tool would be worth it but for one off simple works for me and I think one of them single flare 5/8 too.
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theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Here is a big tip. The type of brake line you are flaring makes a BIG difference ! Stainless should be left to the pros.
Regular steel requires a "good" set and the Eastwood bench flare tool is one of the best. So is MasterCool hydraulic flare set. Both are EXPENSIVE for a DIY who is going to use it only occasionally. The small Eastwood "on vehicle" tool looks very interesting and from the couple of videos I have seen, it works well (it has been available in EU for several years).
If you are using NiCopp brake line, even the cheap brake flare tools work pretty good !
Regular steel requires a "good" set and the Eastwood bench flare tool is one of the best. So is MasterCool hydraulic flare set. Both are EXPENSIVE for a DIY who is going to use it only occasionally. The small Eastwood "on vehicle" tool looks very interesting and from the couple of videos I have seen, it works well (it has been available in EU for several years).
If you are using NiCopp brake line, even the cheap brake flare tools work pretty good !
I have one like this -> https://www.ebay.com/itm/HAND-HELD-...200093?hash=item3d5a5f4cdd:g:ij4AAOSw2s1Utrln
(come in a multitude of brand names, but are the same thing)
Does Steel, copper and cupronickel without issue and on the car.
I actually have 2, one for SAE single and double flares and another for DIN bubble flares.
Recommended thoroughly and so easy to use once you read the instruction leaflet.
Essentially
Cut pipe back to sound metal
deburr and remove plastic coating
fit brake union
loosen 2 small bolts to allow pipe into tool
hand tighten 2 small bolts
screw in stop
tighten 2 small bolts with wrench
unscrew stop
grease op1 punch tool with supplied grease (looks like red mononuclear grease)
screw in op1 tool and snug down with wrench
undo op1
grease op2
screw in and snug down
undo op2
loosen 2 small bolts to allow now flared pipe to be femoved from tool
I really personally rate it, used it plenty of times on various brands of cars from Ford (Mazda) Ranger truck, Toyota Yaris/Echo, Saab 9-3 etc
Even my old man was impressed and he's notoriously hard to please.
(come in a multitude of brand names, but are the same thing)
Does Steel, copper and cupronickel without issue and on the car.
I actually have 2, one for SAE single and double flares and another for DIN bubble flares.
Recommended thoroughly and so easy to use once you read the instruction leaflet.
Essentially
Cut pipe back to sound metal
deburr and remove plastic coating
fit brake union
loosen 2 small bolts to allow pipe into tool
hand tighten 2 small bolts
screw in stop
tighten 2 small bolts with wrench
unscrew stop
grease op1 punch tool with supplied grease (looks like red mononuclear grease)
screw in op1 tool and snug down with wrench
undo op1
grease op2
screw in and snug down
undo op2
loosen 2 small bolts to allow now flared pipe to be femoved from tool
I really personally rate it, used it plenty of times on various brands of cars from Ford (Mazda) Ranger truck, Toyota Yaris/Echo, Saab 9-3 etc
Even my old man was impressed and he's notoriously hard to please.
sberry
Banned
Some of those prices are very reasonable.
+1
these ideal for home gamer and pro's too, for on car flaring hard beat .
does oem lines okay .
txvwnut
Well-known member
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vpd66
Well-known member
Another vote for the ATD master kit. The Master cool flaring tool is good but I just couldn't justify the cost. Eastwoods flaring tool is also a good tool but it only works in a vise and it is also spendy. The ATD master kit sells for around $75 and make perfect flares every time. It does US double flare and metric bubble flare. It can be used on the car. For years I've used the traditional style double flaring tool and had hit and miss results. Now with the ATD I get a perfect centered flare every time.
jonesg
Well-known member
I have the same one from Napa. Great design.
RPH
Well-known member
Mastercool for life and be done with flaring problems.
Eastwood is good, there is also another brand I came across, CTA Tools (also Made in USA), made for the tight spots (you can make the flare even with the line already installed), available on Amazon for about $50 per kit depending on type needed, SAE, Metric, or ISO
driz
Well-known member
Just remember if your flaring steel tubing like brakes has more to do with the technique and it does the quality of the tool, beveling the edges oiling and such. Double flare if you only do it a couple times a year is a royal pain in the neck.
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driz. Yep. I know. Been a while since I have done it. Building a hot rod and will need to do all the lines. Bought ni-copper line so should be easier than steel or stainless.
Still can’t decide on which one to get. I like the compact handheld but would probably be better off getting the multi capability set.. just makes more sense for once every five year deal. lol
Still can’t decide on which one to get. I like the compact handheld but would probably be better off getting the multi capability set.. just makes more sense for once every five year deal. lol
sberry
Banned
Most of it can be done with ready made lengths.
I will agree thatv technique is everything, fittup and care is what makes a good flare with common tools.
I will agree thatv technique is everything, fittup and care is what makes a good flare with common tools.
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bczygan
Well-known member
I got this one, but good flares can be made if you go slow and pay attention.
Bill
Bill
Ah, that looks very similar to the CTA Tools brand
Also, its highly recommended to use a high quality deburring tool to ensure the fittings and lines are in contact properly,
The Eastwood option serves well,
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-tubing-deburring-tool.html
Also, its highly recommended to use a high quality deburring tool to ensure the fittings and lines are in contact properly,
The Eastwood option serves well,
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-tubing-deburring-tool.html
I got this one, but good flares can be made if you go slow and pay attention.
Bill
sberry
Banned
I usually use a cut off wheel. Then give it a couple file strokes to make sure it's square and take off a little heated steel.
jacobsautomotive
New member
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2021
- Messages
- 1
I've had pretty good luck with this flaring tool https://4lifetimelines.com/products/universal-hydraulic-tube-flaring-set. Plus it's backed by a life time warranty - can't lose!
IndyGarage
Well-known member
I have the Eastwood kit. It works great, but it has a couple problems - first you have to flare the lines away from the car in a vise.
The second problem is that mine had weakness in the blue clamp that holds the die. It's made out of some kind of cast powder metal. I broke mine - ended up spending a bunch of time on the milling machine remaking a stronger part out of steel.
A mechanic friend taught me the easiest way to make brake lines is literally to flare them in-place under the car, so then you don't have to pull them out and take them to your bench vise to flare them.
I found that one of the handheld type tools are much cheaper and can be done while you are under the car. Last job I did this was what I used. Not quite as fast and simple as the Eastwood type, but they work good, especially on Nicop brake line. The problem is you have to buy a separate tool for each brake line size.
The second problem is that mine had weakness in the blue clamp that holds the die. It's made out of some kind of cast powder metal. I broke mine - ended up spending a bunch of time on the milling machine remaking a stronger part out of steel.
A mechanic friend taught me the easiest way to make brake lines is literally to flare them in-place under the car, so then you don't have to pull them out and take them to your bench vise to flare them.
I found that one of the handheld type tools are much cheaper and can be done while you are under the car. Last job I did this was what I used. Not quite as fast and simple as the Eastwood type, but they work good, especially on Nicop brake line. The problem is you have to buy a separate tool for each brake line size.
I have the same in Titan branding... also highly recommend that style.
Lisle makes a combo kit of both 3/16 and 1/4 that I would have bought but was out of stock then
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B082P2483D
Lisle makes a combo kit of both 3/16 and 1/4 that I would have bought but was out of stock then
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B082P2483D
This is by far the best flaring tool for automotive applications. https://surrauto.com/kits/pft409/
It is available from Amazon and Ebay under $250 at times. BTW, I have used the Mastercool flaring set for years as a professional mechanic and the SUR & R kit is better in every aspect.
It is available from Amazon and Ebay under $250 at times. BTW, I have used the Mastercool flaring set for years as a professional mechanic and the SUR & R kit is better in every aspect.
I have a Buick that needs new brake lines. I've been eyeing the Eastwood kit for several years, and the Mastercool after joining here, still haven't pulled the trigger on either. Didn't hear about SUR&R until now.
Money is not a factor in this decision, either way, I'll be saving a ton on labor, and will keep the tool for future jobs.
I plan to use CuNi lines. I also own Ford trucks, so I'd like versatility.
I've done tons of DIY brake jobs over the years, and have replaced brake lines on countless cars, trucks and an RV I own. I'm tired of the hit-or-miss results of the cheap tool sets.
But, I can't wrap my head around doing a flare on a line installed in a vehicle. Why would you do that, other than to replace only part of a line (which seems like a bad idea for several reasons)?
So, what specific reasons do any of you prefer one brand / type over another?
Thanks in advance!
Mike
Money is not a factor in this decision, either way, I'll be saving a ton on labor, and will keep the tool for future jobs.
I plan to use CuNi lines. I also own Ford trucks, so I'd like versatility.
I've done tons of DIY brake jobs over the years, and have replaced brake lines on countless cars, trucks and an RV I own. I'm tired of the hit-or-miss results of the cheap tool sets.
But, I can't wrap my head around doing a flare on a line installed in a vehicle. Why would you do that, other than to replace only part of a line (which seems like a bad idea for several reasons)?
So, what specific reasons do any of you prefer one brand / type over another?
Thanks in advance!
Mike
Firebrick43
Well-known member
I needed to flare my trans cooler lines on the vehicle because it wasn't running, parked on gravel, and I needed better under car access if I was going to remove them from the transmission side. The previous owner chopped the lines off, then just hose clamped some rubber lines to them. It leaked, obviously. The SUR&R was tempting, but didn't come with metric (from what I gathered) to do my brake lines as well, so I bought the Mastercool set.
I had to redo one of the flares once because I didn't clamp it tight enough, but these are my 2nd and 4th attempts to make flares ever, and they don't leak.
I had to redo one of the flares once because I didn't clamp it tight enough, but these are my 2nd and 4th attempts to make flares ever, and they don't leak.
Attachments
I have a kit by ABN. Does double and bubble, SAE and metric.
ABN Double/Bubble Flare kit
Not fancy compared to others I'm seeing on this thread, but it does work. No splits, all my flares have been equal and centered, and no leaks. About $60.
I've done brake lines and double flares on 1/2" copper.
I'd never done doubles before, so I did a few practice ones before going at it. I'm a hobbyist and it works well for me.
ABN Double/Bubble Flare kit
Not fancy compared to others I'm seeing on this thread, but it does work. No splits, all my flares have been equal and centered, and no leaks. About $60.
I've done brake lines and double flares on 1/2" copper.
I'd never done doubles before, so I did a few practice ones before going at it. I'm a hobbyist and it works well for me.
Could you please elaborate more specifically on how the SUR&R is better than the Mastercool?
Isn't that going to be a problem with ANY of the hydraulic sets, regardless of manufacturer? Can they be serviced?
If the hydraulic units are not worth it (vs the Eastwood style mechanical type), that would be good to know.
It's been about 6 years since I did the lines on the RV. At the time, CuNi was only available locally as a bare roll. Prior to that, I'd bought steel lines with pre-formed flares, after getting frustrated with DIY flares.
The DIY flares that I made with the CuNi were irritating as well (was using a cheap manual kit, and the flares kept coming out asymmetrically).
I see that CuNi lines are now available with pre-formed ends, that might be the way to go?
I also see that full pre-bent tubing sets are available for this car (in steel or stainless). That's certainly appealing (although not cheap).
Mike
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
For a DIYer, check out the Eastwood "on vehicle" flair tool. I don't know the original manufacturer, but other places sell the same tool.
Pros should only consider the Master cool set or the Eastwood bench mount. Master cool has dies that allow you to make a proper flair so that you can convert steel fuel line to plastic/nylon. Fastest way to repair rotted fuel lines.
Pros should only consider the Master cool set or the Eastwood bench mount. Master cool has dies that allow you to make a proper flair so that you can convert steel fuel line to plastic/nylon. Fastest way to repair rotted fuel lines.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Yes, it is. I am not saying that the mastercool isn't a good set. It is. I have two friends with them that use them professionally and they really like them. I have borrowed one to do a quick connect fuel line once. They have both had the pump fail from approximately a decade of use. If I was a pro working of vehicles, I wouldn't bat an eye on buying one. I have the eastwood (sykes pickavent) knock off and its excellent. I to had issues with off center flares in CuNI (all i use now) but have not with the eastwood. And there is little chance that it will ever fail. I have done a lot of brake lines with it and find it a wonderful tool. I have considered getting the AN/JIC flaring turret and dies for it but have a ridgid roll flaring tool that does 37 degree flares wonderfully so I have not done so yet.