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Double Flaring Tool set

SeisMec

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Aug 24, 2018
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Beryl, Utah
Does somebody make a reasonably priced double flaring tool for brake lines or do I have to go the tool truck route?

Just drove 40 miles to nearest town with more than a single auto parts store. Four total (Napa, Car Quest, O'Reilly's & Autozone) plus Harbor Freight.

Everybody's double flaring tool was a Chinese POS. Specifically the pins on the double flare dies were far too small a diameter. eg The pin on the 1/4" dies were about 1/8" in diameter - maybe even a shade less.
 
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2ndGearRubber

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Sur&r makes a decent kit. The OTC kits are also nice, with a positive locking system on the ram. The martercool hydraulic kit is the gold standard.

I'll give you some links when I get home.
 

Aeroman

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Aug 2, 2006
Messages
103
Does somebody make a reasonably priced double flaring tool for brake lines or do I have to go the tool truck route?



Just drove 40 miles to nearest town with more than a single auto parts store. Four total (Napa, Car Quest, O'Reilly's & Autozone) plus Harbor Freight.



Everybody's double flaring tool was a Chinese POS. Specifically the pins on the double flare dies were far too small a diameter. eg The pin on the 1/4" dies were about 1/8" in diameter - maybe even a shade less.
I purchased the MasterCool hydraulic flaring tool set to create double flare 45° and 37° single flare on stainless steel 3/16 brake tubing. Trust me...you will never want to go manual after using it. Worth every penny, especially on SS.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

Chevy-SS

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Feb 11, 2010
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Rhode Island
I purchased the MasterCool hydraulic flaring tool set to create double flare 45° and 37° single flare on stainless steel 3/16 brake tubing. Trust me...you will never want to go manual after using it. Worth every penny, especially on SS.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Ooooooh yeah, the Mastercool kits are absolutely awesome, and reasonably priced too. I have the kit in pic below. The best thing about this kit is the ability to splice a brake line in properly, by creating the industry-standard double flare while the line is still on the vehicle. And it creates a perfect flare every time, plus does many other types of lines and fittings. A really beautiful piece of kit.

I bought it directly from Mastercool. I called them with a question or two, and they offered me a great deal, so if you have any interest at all, call them directly.

mastercool1.jpg
 

lilredex

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Apr 29, 2006
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Location
Toronto
My go to, is my Imperial vintage set, none better for my old trucks.
 

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Toyo72

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Nov 27, 2009
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281
First, if you are doing brake lines, use NiCopp (nickel cooper line). It bends and flares so much better than steel !

theOldWizard is right on with this recommendation, too. Someone recommended to me the Cunifer lines from FedhillUSA, those were fantastic to work with, flared and bent beautifully.
 

2ndGearRubber

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Pittsburgh
Sur&r makes a decent kit. The OTC kits are also nice, with a positive locking system on the ram. The martercool hydraulic kit is the gold standard.

I'll give you some links when I get home.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JW2J8SC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Sur&r is a hidden gem IMO. Nice size to work in tight spaces.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0075XHDHI/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Oldschool style with a positive locking ram which helps stability.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCYKQSN/?tag=atomicindus08-20

A bit bulky, but you can use it in most areas on the car. Makes lots of other interesting fittings too.
 

Gutman

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Jan 10, 2019
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290
Location
ENC
Eastwood for the win. Best money spent and I don't think I've made a bad double flare yet.
 
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tibwd

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Aug 10, 2010
Messages
30
Only application for steel lines is if you need to install pre-bent/formed ones, and they already have flares. For anyone in the rustbelt states uncoated steel brake lines are at best , temporary. Using the nickel copper mixed lines not only gives you strength and longevity , it also makes most flaring tools work better,and bending them is a breeze! I am surprised noone has recommended the RIDGID flaring tool kit. Have used and owned many sets, and this tool is the best I have found , unless you are willing to spend 3-500$ dollars. Though pricey compared to the 20$ kits, at 100$ this kit is best in it's price range, and you won't be breaking/bending any bits with this kit. ymmv - good luck - Tom
 
OP
S

SeisMec

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Aug 24, 2018
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406
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Beryl, Utah
Thanks a bunch for all the replies.

I'm helping a buddy with a 1957 Chevy 6400 dump truck. This is going to be a single use tool. Probably going with this OTC kit.
 

IndyGarage

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Apr 29, 2010
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Indy
First, if you are doing brake lines, use NiCopp (nickel cooper line). It bends and flares so much better than steel !

Also, if you are just doing brake lines, this is by far the "best bang for is the buck" Titan 51535 3/16-Inch Double Flaring Tool (Eastwood sells the same tool under their name).

Bought this one a couple years ago when I had two projects to do, definitely worth it:
https://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

Not cheap, and not for use for lines still on the vehicle, but really nice tool. Definitely less than tool truck stuff though.
p25304-30005_1.jpg

I have both the eastwood and a Titan. The nice thing about the Titan is it can be used under the vehicle, which is very convenient.

The Eastwood makes flares much easier and I really like it, but must be held in a bench vise. I did have a problem with my Eastwood - the light blue clamp bar broke around one of the pins when I clamped too tight. I think it's made from powder metal, it's not really strong enough. I didn't try to weld it but it would be difficult.

I finally got around to making a new one out of steel on my milling machine.

I also bought the die kit to flare for AN fittings as well.
 

rsanter

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Dec 22, 2007
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visalia ca
I have a decent used manual set I can sell,you.
I upgraded to the mastercool set as I want to do stainless lines
 

joe_padavano

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Feb 26, 2011
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Northern VA
Bought this one a couple years ago when I had two projects to do, definitely worth it:
https://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

Not cheap, and not for use for lines still on the vehicle, but really nice tool. Definitely less than tool truck stuff though.
p25304-30005_1.jpg

^^^THIS! I've had one of these for years now. Best flaring tool I've ever owned. The downside is that you have to mount it in a vice, so you can't use it to flare a line on the car. Does stainless as well as mild steel. Never made a bad flare with it, and I use it a lot. FYI, there are a LOT of these on the market, and they all appear to be identical except for the logo decal. I got mine from Inline Tube at the Carlisle swap meet - got the display model discount, so not a bad price. I've seen at least a dozen different vendors selling them, with prices all over the map. Shop around.

I'll also suggest that the deburring tool that Eastwood and others sell now is a very handy thing to use in conjunction with this flaring tool.

30448_infoimage640.jpg
 

nelstomlinson

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Jul 27, 2009
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649
Location
Interior Alaska
I recently got a Lisle 56150 set used from fleabay. It's made in USA, and looks as if it's going to be the bee's knees. It does single, double and bubble flares. Got it to do bubble flares on my Mercedes.
 

sberry

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Jun 18, 2005
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Brethren, Michigan
The pins on the little bits are the RIGHT size, they are sposed to be small. Wouldn't work if they were tight. I havnt watched pricing, for part timers simple is good especially with the newer line. The Rigid set plus dies is good, maybe off too, don't know but the parts stores got ready made on the shelf.
I stock some, stock some roll too but use ready when I can and make one when I have to. Have never used or made a stainless line.
 

Luciferi

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Mar 24, 2013
Messages
219
I have the mastercool. It works great on stainless. Mine was on permanent loan to a friend shop for years. They now have the Eastwood and love it.
 

setfocus

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Jan 15, 2020
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413
Location
rust belt
I've got a bluepoint kit like the OTC posted above. Never had a flare leak on me with copper line and that kit. My ISO bubble kit is the same style but matco, also no issues. There have been a few times I didn't like how it looked, cut off and reflared. It's all in the prep work and knowing what you're doing

Remember to slide the nut on before you flare. I still F that up occantionally

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Mr.N

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Jul 13, 2005
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Location
Mpls, MN
^^^THIS! I've had one of these for years now. Best flaring tool I've ever owned.. FYI, there are a LOT of these on the market, and they all appear to be identical except for the logo decal. I got mine from Inline Tube at the Carlisle swap meet - got the display model discount, so not a bad price. I've seen at least a dozen different vendors selling them, with prices all over the map. Shop around.
Thank for the advice, just bought one after have several old schools one and tired of them being off set. Plus this way I got to add a 37 degree flare to the mix.
 

Mr.N

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Jul 13, 2005
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Mpls, MN
I purchased the Maddox set from harbor freight. Made in taiwan. Supposedly the same set as the OTC. Seems to work pretty decent.
Make sure your cuts are square, you tighten the tool as much as you can (I usually hold it in vice) and use plenty of lube for the threads. I must have 4-5 kits like this one and they can work well. Using the button for a double flare has its challenges...
 

housewolf

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Feb 3, 2021
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East Texas
I know OP has gone with something else but who knows when someone will see this thread in the future with the same question.

In a sense, I drew the short straw when none of the guys I race with had a flaring tool. I bought the Mastercool. We’ve done a half dozen cars with it and I believe it’s paid for itself with just that work. You can also buy dies for fuel and trans lines. AFAIK; it’s never made a bad flare. It really ***** to spend 30 minutes bending 6 bends in a piece of tubing then have to toss it because the flare is bad.
 

joel_400

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Oct 16, 2022
Messages
405
Location
Nw ohio
I've got a blue point set I've had for 20 years and a masterclass set I've had for 21...had to buy the blue point set because the mastercool set did not like 3/8 steel line. May work ok with the copper alloy line available today though. It would just push the 3/8 steel right through though. Recently I used a buddies harbor freight set. I noticed it was a bit on the sloppy side but as long as you made sure the two sides were squared up it worked great. He said he never made flares as nice as the ones I did with it...but I'm thinking that was due to the slop and not squaring it up well. But for cheap as long as you do that it works fine.
Joel
 
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