Double flaring

[Mr.Nutcase]

Snap On TF5A
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1338&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog


I have the Craftsman one, it *****...... is the Snap On better?
On the Yoke Assembly on the Craftsman takes time to use..
In high school I used a Snap On set that allowed Yoke Assembly to be used easier,(it had channels on inside, locking to the bar.. )
Model# 47075
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...ble+flare+tool&prdNo=5&blockNo=5&blockType=G5

 

[atari]

I have a pile of these things and the best one is a china made westward branded unit. It is the one with the rotating clamp. I feel a little dirty using it but it was nearly free and it works better than the rest of them, even the 3 US made ones I have. However, I dont have the SO/Blue point tool so I cant speak for that one specifically.

 

[mrshaun]

i have never had a complaint about the blue point sets. so that means they work. my customers gripe if the thing *****.

 

[Merkava_4]

The guys working in aviation use the ones made by Imperial.

 

[mrshaun]

that does seem to be a popular brand on fort hood

 

[srmofo]

http://www.google.com/products/cata...S4n9K4j-NZW57eQK&sa=title&ved=0CAcQ8wIwADgA#p

once you use it, you'll never go back. If youre just a hobbist its probably not worth the money unless your doing an entire car up, but if you wrench for a living, its worth every penny. plus the master set does EVERYTHING. And they make an additional kit to do 37' fittings (AN)

EDIT I wrote a thread on it, a while back

 

[wreckercologist]

http://www.google.com/products/cata...S4n9K4j-NZW57eQK&sa=title&ved=0CAcQ8wIwADgA#p

once you use it, you'll never go back. If youre just a hobbist its probably not worth the money unless your doing an entire car up, but if you wrench for a living, its worth every penny. plus the master set does EVERYTHING. And they make an additional kit to do 37' fittings (AN)

EDIT I wrote a thread on it, a while back

While I agree that the Mastercool is the cat's *** (and a really good price in the link) they are pricey and not always easy to get into tight spaces. Still an excellent tool though, and the fuel line attachments are worth their weight in gold.

I've had a Mac branded Imperial for years and it works quite well too. I suspect the Blue Point in the OP's link is a rebranded Imperial as well? Anybody know? Either way, still looks like a good tool..........U.S. made for $50.05.

 

[nate379]

I have a Matco one that is the same as the Snap On one. Actually I had a Snap On one and I gave it away a while back.

 

[35mastr]

A++++++ on the hydralic unit from Mastercool. I will never go back to the others. That unit can do many different style lines.

 

[nate379]

I use the brake flaring deal a few times a year. Would be downright retarded to spend $300 on one when a $30 one does the job just fine!

 

[rodm1]

http://www.google.com/products/cata...S4n9K4j-NZW57eQK&sa=title&ved=0CAcQ8wIwADgA#p

once you use it, you'll never go back. If your just a hobbist its probably not worth the money unless your doing an entire car up, but if you wrench for a living, its worth every penny. plus the master set does EVERYTHING. And they make an additional kit to do 37' fittings (AN)

EDIT I wrote a thread on it, a while back

They are grate! But MasterCool don't give good instruction on how to really use it without recking the dies on the very first flare. I contacted tech support and they are not very helpful over the phone. After much research and several returns the below is how to use this tool without recking your dies even on Stainless.

1. Never use a pipe or tube cutter instead use a 32 pitch hacksaw blade or cut off wheel. (the most important step)
2. File square if needed after cutting
3. Deburr the end then clean out the shavings in tub with brake cleaner and some air. Use a drill bit the size of tube for the internal deburring of tube
4. Flare like normal don't squeeze overly hard or you will recking the dies.

If you don't do this you will work harden the tube and chip the forming edge of the dies. If you have to buy replacement dies order them from Snap-On they have a Lifetime warranty on them. You probable will need it.

The above works on Summit Racing's stainless steel tube I've been told.

 

[sberry]

I have the snappy one, I see its priced fair. Only issue was one of the bolts broke and I finally made new one, its ok but I like the rigid better at about 30$ and if needed it does 5/8. I also dont really use the cutter, die grinder most of the time.

 

[Shadowdog500]

I have a Matco one that is the same as the Snap On one. Actually I had a Snap On one and I gave it away a while back.

+1, I also have the same exact one that I bought in February on a Mac truck(FT158A shown below). A friend has the Snap On one and they are identical, even the instruction are the same exact printout. It was the same price as Snap on, so I would probably just get the snap on one, because it has more brand recognition than MAC.

The back of the case has made in Taiwan in the corner, which kind of bummed me out.

Chris

 

[Mr.Nutcase]

i have never had a complaint about the blue point sets. so that means they work. my customers gripe if the thing *****.

So which one was the one that the yoke has some channels to lock in the bar. I was wondering if Imperial makes the tubing cutter for snap on..

 

[Shadowdog500]

I never used one of these Rigid 345DL double flaring tools before, but people on th web seem to like them. They do cost more than the Blue Point one. Eventually I may try one of these.

Chris

 

[Stephenw]

I like the Ridgid brand flaring tool.

You can read my treatise on double flaring here...

<a href="http://www.shopngarage.com/forum/index.php?topic=145.0">Double Flaring</a>

 

[srmofo]

They are grate! But MasterCool don't give good instruction on how to really use it without recking the dies on the very first flare. .

Really? Ive had mine for over 2 years now, and I havent had a problem yet. I know what your saying about using a hacksaw blade so it doesnt clog the hole up. Although I still use the tubing cutter, then debur it, then a quick round in the wire wheel. Final prep is to brake clean then blow it out. Just take your time and make sure the dies are engaging the line right. You'll wreck dies on a regular flare tool if you hit it wrong also, its just easier with the hydraulic tool because it makes so much pressure.

The only other thing I can add is to pump the ram a little bit while in storage. Mine leaks a little bit If I dont

 

[srmofo]

If I had to go back I would use the rigid without a doubt. It clamps in a similar fasion to the mastercool and you get a much better crimp if the tools not trying to twist around.

 

[Brad54]

I had a Mastercool flare tool... I couldn't get good flares with it.

I have the snap-on kit you show; actually, the one with the tubing cutter included. Worth every single penny. I've NEVER had a bad flare with it. I really enjoy bending and flaring lines, and that kit is a big part of the reason.

You MUST have a quality tubing cutter. I lost the cutter that came with my kit, and went through a couple cheap ones before spending the money on the correct replacement from Snap On.

No offense to the guys that make their money with Snap On, but I don't think there are many tools in their catalog that justify their high prices.
That snap-on flaring kit IS worth every single penny. And if I remember correctly, the one with the cutter is only $135.

-Brad

 

[Mr.Nutcase]

I had a Mastercool flare tool... I couldn't get good flares with it.

I have the snap-on kit you show; actually, the one with the tubing cutter included. Worth every single penny. I've NEVER had a bad flare with it. I really enjoy bending and flaring lines, and that kit is a big part of the reason.

You MUST have a quality tubing cutter. I lost the cutter that came with my kit, and went through a couple cheap ones before spending the money on the correct replacement from Snap On.

No offense to the guys that make their money with Snap On, but I don't think there are many tools in their catalog that justify their high prices.
That snap-on flaring kit IS worth every single penny. And if I remember correctly, the one with the cutter is only $135.

-Brad

I got a good cutter....

 

[Mr.Nutcase]

I have decided to buy the Snap on after the Craftsman 3/16 adpater broke......
Here is a tip, if you need a flaring set, skip Craftsman!.. and buy a good brand like Snap On...
Craftsman made so easy for me... because that I have decided to buy snap on....

 

[walrus]

I've got the Snap On Double flaring set w/ cutter. Its a nice set. I also have a heavy Rigid flare tool like the one previously pictured but it won't dbl flare. It does soft copper like a dream though.

 

[Shadowdog500]

I've got the Snap On Double flaring set w/ cutter. Its a nice set. I also have a heavy Rigid flare tool like the one previously pictured but it won't dbl flare. It does soft copper like a dream though.

Are you saying it doesn't double flair because you don't have the double flair adapters?
Or are you saying that you do have the double flair adapters, but the double flairs don't come out well?

The photo I posted above was just a 345 single flair model. Here is a photo of the 345-DL double flair model. You can get the adapters separately for just over $7 a piece to double flair on the single flair model..

Chris

 

[E Gap]

The guys working in aviation use the ones made by Imperial.

FYI

Aircraft AN fitting flare angle is 37°, not 45°. Possibly explaining the use of Imperial Eastman tubing tools in the aviation field. They seem to be the only manufacture of 37° flaring tools.

 

[walrus]

Are you saying it doesn't double flair because you don't have the double flair adapters?
Or are you saying that you do have the double flair adapters, but the double flairs don't come out well?

The photo I posted above was just a 345 single flair model. Here is a photo of the 345-DL double flair model. You can get the adapters separately for just over $7 a piece to double flair on the single flair model..

Chris

Mine is really old, it has a clutch on the top handle so as to not overtighten and I guess squish the flare?? There isn't enough room to get the double flare adapter in between the block and the top press part. It makes the best flare I've ever seen in copper.

 

[CrushMonday]

The bar set and the adapters are made here in the states, the yoke center screw and handle are made in taiwan.

 

[29Sedanman]

I have a few flaring kits. I have not used any of the others since buying an Imperial Eastman set from Sears a couple projects ago. This kit seems to give the most consistant easy to form flares.

Something I have learned is allot of problems people have with flaring tools are operator induced. A little oil on the dies and not overtightening the yoke seem to be key.