Double Gang Box to Power Whip

[iced98lx]

I'm ready to wire up my little heater for the garage and the person who wired it pulled the 10/3 romex through a double gang new work box and left it hang:

IMG_20190926_172351 by Christopher Uthe, on Flickr

I have the heater wired to the proper power whip but cannot find any sort of plate to go over this that allows my power whip to connect (1/2 inch) through.

Thoughts, suggestions?

After some digging I'm tempted to grab a 2 gang single power plug and plate:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...-Mounted-Outlet-Black-R30-05207-S10/302480849

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...-Outlet-Wall-Plate-in-White-80530-W/301671001

and attach this wire to the heater:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-6-ft-10-3-3-Wire-Dryer-Cord-HD-627-833/100672782

but I am most interested in the proper way of doing it so I'm not redoing things when the inspector comes for final pass.

 

[Kevin Essiambre]

Is that box on the ceiling?

I'm not sure about NEC, but I know up here in Canada, we cannot have a straight place receptacle mounted on the ceiling (something about gravity).

If I were to install a receptacle on That, I would use a 14-30 twist lock.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

 

[Bert_]

2 gang metal cover and drill a hole for 1/2 inch conduit. Assuming you have flexible metal conduit to the heater or something similar. Otherwise the metal cover would be an issue since it's not grounded by the box.

 

[Norcal]

To add to Bert's post, a 1/2" conduit fitting takes a 7/8" hole, and the easiest way to do it is with a 7/8" holesaw, I am not fond of a conduit entry done with a holesaw but a KO punch is a lot more money & most people are not going to want to buy a tool for 1 time job, a step drill bit going up to 7/8" is another option & HF has them they are not as good as a Unibit, but HF is significantly cheaper.

 

[u2slow]

I would be using a blank metallic 2G cover, drill the 7/8" hole with a step drill. Metallic flex conduit. Heater ends up hard-wired just like a typical hot water tank.

EDIT: If it has to be cord-connected, likely has to be a NEMA 6-30P configuration.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-30-Amp-250-Volt-6-30R-Power-Receptacle-5700N/206469352

I despise twist locks. Witnessed too many failures. I seem to recall that limitation on straight-blade ceiling plugs being particular circuit types. Don't know where my Code book is...

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I would be using a blank metallic 2G cover, drill the 7/8" hole with a step drill. Metallic flex conduit. Heater ends up hard-wired just like a typical hot water tank.

EDIT: If it has to be cord-connected, likely has to be a NEMA 6-30P configuration.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-30-Amp-250-Volt-6-30R-Power-Receptacle-5700N/206469352

I despise twist locks. Witnessed too many failures. I seem to recall that limitation on straight-blade ceiling plugs being particular circuit types. Don't know where my Code book is...

You can get free access to the NEC on NFPA website

 

[u2slow]

You can get free access to the NEC on NFPA website

Thanks! CEC needs to follow suit.