Double wall chimney pipe question

[Bill_Brasky]

I bought a Heatilator wood burning fireplace off from a guy on craigslist last night. Amongst other things, it came with two 36" double wall chimney sections. He kept the chimney cap, flashing, and last section of chimney pipe since he doesn't want to repair the hole that would be left in his roof right now.

I will need to buy the flashing, chimney cap, firestop, and at least one section of chimney pipe.

My question is this: Are stainless steel double wall chimney pipes universal, or specific to the fireplace or stove manufacturer? In other words, would one brand of pipe and/or cap connect to another brand?

I'm not sure who the manufacturer is of the stovepipe that came with the fireplace. Menards has Fmi brand and has a "chimney pack" in stock that comes with cap, flashing, firestop, and storm collar, but would have to special order additional sections of pipe. The closest Heatilator dealer is hours away.

 

[HVAC Phil]

No, all manufactures have a different connection. You must match brands. Pipe should be marked with brand name.

 

[Bill_Brasky]

Thanks

How about the connection at the fireplace? Since it is a Heatilator fireplace, would that mean that the stovepipe I have is Heatilator and I would need a Heatilator chimney cap, firestop etc.?

 

[HVAC Phil]

The fireplace connection "should" go right into the chimney pipe.

 

[Highbeam]

The pipe manufacturer does not need to be the same as the stove manufacturer. I don't know of any stove makers that also make pipe.

All you have is the interior double wall. Unless you can and want to match the rest of the system to this same brand then you may as well trash it and buy all new.

Flues are kind of important to do right.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The double wall pipe should have labels on them showing who made them and the part number.

I installed a Lanair waste oil furnace and it came with Simpson brand flue pipe and double wall class A, wall thimble, etc.

If it is Simpson (edit: its now DuraVent div of M&G), download the appropriate catalog and spend some time looking at the various installations and bits and pieces and what they are used for. You actually will need lots of stuff to do the job right.

http://www.northlineexpress.com/dura-tech-help.asp

http://www.duravent.com/Index.aspx

http://www.duravent.com/ProductDocumentSearch.aspx

If it starts with Dura, it the DuraVent lines, DuraTech, DuraBlack, DuraPlus, DuraChimney

Charles

 

[Highbeam]

I used simpson for my last stove install. All brands of chimney end up being very expensive by teh time you're done. Expect to spend more than 2000$ in parts to get the chimney together.

Kinda makes that craigslist special stove seem expensive.

 

[Oldtymeflyr]

We recently went through this exercise in our cabin.

You will find little compatible. You will need figure out how to get from the stove to the first piece of pipe, that will require more than likely a stove collar. From the stove collar you need to connect to the ceiling collar. Then to the roof collar, then out the roof to the cap.

We found a collar that fit this stove, a little heavier metal. Then went with Dura vent, with a sliding piece pipe, that with a 36" piece pipe went to the ceiling collar and the old chimney system that was in good shape.

The sliding piece of pipe was great, we had a 45 degree bend,and it worked out well using Duravent.

A whole chimney system could easily cost $1500. The parts we did buy cost about $500.00. It adds up in a hurry.

Get a set of crimper pliers. I was able to borrow a set and they saved a lot of time.

Good Luck!

Rick

 

[brewchief]

With factory built fireplaces you must use only what the manufacturer specifies, nothing else. They are designed for a specific vent and any other pipe could cause a fire hazard.

Go to heatilators website and download the install manual and then follow it exactly.

Do not substitute any other pipe, doing so will void any ratings and might give an insurance company a reason not to pay out if you ever have a fire.

 

[Bill_Brasky]

It's got the collar that connects the stovepipe to the fireplace. The pipe that is included is branded Heatilator and P/N is SL336. This is the stovepipe that Heatilator specifies in the installation manual. It came with (2) of these 3' sections.

My chimney will be a straight shot up thru the ceiling and roof - no bends, 2nd floors, vaulted ceilings, or anything out of the ordinary. I haven't measured to my roof yet to know exacly how much pipe I'll need. I've read the installation manual and according to that it appears I need:

-13' minimum pipe (as measured from bottom of fireplace)
-firestop spacer (where pipe passes thru ceiling)
-flashing
-chimney cap
-storm collar

Is there anything missing?

I haven't priced out the recommended Heatilator brand, but Menard's Fmi Comfort Flame brand would run appx $300 for everything depending on how tall I need to be. But, I know this brand will not work because the 8" ID pipe is 12.375" OD whereas the Heatilator brand is 10.5" OD. I haven't found a good online source for Heatilator chimney parts yet. If anybody knows of one, that would be great. Or maybe the Heatilator brand pipe is actually manufactured by someone else and could be found under a different name elsewhere?

 

[river111]

The fireplace connection "should" go right into the chimney pipe.

I think so.

 

[Jackfre]

I represented Dura-Vent and Selkirk for about 20yrs. Most fireplace manuf had a pipe brand so they got the complete sale. Heatilator as you have found did so. It must be a complete Heatilator system. I consider the Heatilator chimney to be not as good as the selkirk or Dura-vent systems I sold. They built it to vent their fp and it was tested, but anyone in the business would not consider it an equal. Just my opinion, but there it is! Before you spend penny one check that fp out from stem to stern. Heatilator was a "competitive" brand and if you bought one of their "builder boxes" I would say you wasted your money. Be sure to notify your insurance company that you are adding a wood heating appliance to your coverage.

If anything on this unit does not pass the smell test, keep in mind that this is the time of year when deals begin to come up on solid fuel appliances and you may want to consider some hard shopping for a new unit. Be aware that the Heatilator chimney you are about to buy will not work on any other appliance but a Heatilator, so re-sell may be more difficult. Just the idea that you cannot find a good source for this material should tell you that it is no longer a preferred brand. They did massive business in the building boom and that was their focus, cheap boxes!

You may want to check out hearth.com

 

[theoldwizard1]

It's got the collar that connects the stovepipe to the fireplace. The pipe that is included is branded Heatilator and P/N is SL336. This is the stovepipe that Heatilator specifies in the installation manual. It came with (2) of these 3' sections.

According to a Heatilator installation manual, the SL336 is just a standard 48" chimney section (page 8). This manual also lists all of compatible chimney parts.

 

[rajyog]

I agree with the previous post. I would be really skeptical of a used Heatilator. Any used heating appliance other than a free standing wood stove, I would check with a microscope.
I don't know your situation obviously, but make sure you are saving a whole lot of money, cause the cost if it goes bad is too much to pay.
When you have a chimney fire, it puts tremendous pressure on the chimney. It can get over 2200 degrees Fahrenheit in less than a minute. That can melt steel and turn mortar into lava.
If the pipes are not joined, secured, and clearanced properly, it can get very nasty. I knew a guy who had a chimney fire in a brick chimney, and afterward he was able to grab each brick and just lift it right off the chimney. It made the chimney expand so fast, it broke the bonds between the bricks and mortar. The chimney was still standing, but it was a pile of loose bricks. Cost a fortune to rebuild.
This is one area where you better really get it right.