Down The Hatch...

[250]

Bibs- The compressor came to me 3ph, but I switched it over to a 5hp 1ph leeson. I don't remember (or maybe never knew for sure) what the starting amp was. I believe the inrush is something around 100A for a few milliseconds. Its wired up with 8g copper on a 40amp circuit. That was the 'safer' recommendation when I was digging around looking for numbers. 10g copper on 30amp circuit could be used if not far from the breaker box I believe, but the up sized wire wasn't much more.

Bret- Camaros, now we're talking. I brought a 71' off a single middle age lady back in highschool and put most of my after school work pennies into it. Life went another direction with the car, and the memories, are waiting for me in her barn... 3000 miles away.

Machine_Punk. Thanks, I'm glad you approve. When ever I find something dirty, greasy or otherwise entirely too heavy and the mrs asks why I got it, I just tell her this is the 'acquisition' phase. Thankfully she hasn't asked what that really means or how long it is. There's a list, somewhere, of the various machines I'd like to eventually have. Not even sure how I initially started down this 'old arn' path, probably the long winters and too much internet time.

Thanks to those who stopped by. This weekend was mostly consumed by initial yard maintenance and some work on the triumph. We'll see if we can get some shop progress here soon.

-david

 

[250]

Oh, I almost forgot, machine punk, where in the napa valley are you? I spent 5 years in that area and would love to get back over there.

 

[250]

I was able to get into the basement for a little bit this evening and tackled one specific problem with the jointer project. The cast had a growth coming out of one of the corners that was unslightly. If it had been the back I might have just left it alone, but its right in the front. It had to go.

At some point last week I looked into what is recommended for working with cast iron and came across these.

IMG_1993 by david koenig, on Flickr

There are a tungsten carbide burr head. Got them from amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017AR5I8Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Beginning...
IMG_1987 by david koenig, on Flickr

Mid...
IMG_1991 by david koenig, on Flickr

Finished...
IMG_1992 by david koenig, on Flickr

I tried all five heads and I'm pleasantly surprised at how well they worked. I wasn't thrilled about all the rung fu on it, but they worked well... I'm going to over look it. This whole process took about 20 minutes with an electric drill.

 

[250]

As usually happens when spring finally comes to new england, things slow a bit as other chores and projects crop up. I have been able to make a little progress on the jointer project and finally gotten things primed. Here are a couple pictures of the cabinet in the shape it started in. Ugly to say the least, good negotiating point for me.

IMG_0072 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_0073 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_0071 by david koenig, on Flickr

I can't begin to guess the thoughts that went through someones mind while selecting placement of equipment and processes that led to this poor thing getting covered in whatever this rubbery glue stuff is, but they managed not to get it on the beds. Go figure.

I like to clean the sheet metal with paint stripper. It is a little smelly if I dump a whole bunch out, but generally isn't bad to work with, and it doesn't spray paint dust everywhere. What I've found, with powermatic equipment at least, is the cast iron pieces don't seem to collect much rust but the 'sheet' metal parts often have quite a bit. This cabinet was no exception. Here we are with rust abatement complete.

IMG_1996 by david koenig, on Flickr

Cleaned up the corners with a file.
IMG_1976 by david koenig, on Flickr

Various cast parts ready for primer.
IMG_1997 by david koenig, on Flickr

 

[250]

This is the first project I've used Kem Bond primer. This is some thick stuff that starts to skim over pretty quick when brushing. This wasn't too much of a problem with a little piece but was going to be a real issue on the cabinet trying to keep a wet edge. My solution was to cut it down by 5% xylene and that worked well.

IMG_1998 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_1999 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2001 by david koenig, on Flickr

Let sit to dry. Close to getting some color back into this project.

-david

 

[bj383ss]

Man that looks fantastic!

 

[250]

Its been a while since I last posted an update. When the summer months come there are lots of things to do that aren't down the hatch. Yard work, vacations, spending time with the family now that the Mrs and I are +1.

IMG_1262 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_1397 by david koenig, on Flickr

I was also able to complete a personal goal of mine to do a one day Presidential traverse in the White Mountains of NH. That was a good workout for sure. 10 peaks, 21 miles, a little over 10,000ft of elevation gain/loss.

IMG_2123 by david koenig, on Flickr

Looking south from Madison, Mt Washington is on the left.
IMG_2126 by david koenig, on Flickr

Hours later looking back at Mt Washington from Eisenhower.
IMG_2140 by david koenig, on Flickr

The following day we took the cog railway back to the top. What a difference a day makes.
IMG_2143 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_4029 by david koenig, on Flickr

 

[250]

Back to the jointer

Now, back to the jointer.

I've been using SW industrial enamel for my machine painting needs. The first two projects I finished I used non SW primer with reasonable results. However a problem I've run into is that the industrial enamel has two issues that cause me trouble. First is that its really challenging to brush on smooth. On cast iron items this generally isn't a big deal, but for the sheet metal base and the smoothed outer surface it turned out to be a real pain. Brush marks, sags, etc. So much so this will hopefully the last resto project that I exclusively brush.

The second issue is the industrial enamel is so soft once cured. I can easily mar paint that was applied a year and a half ago with my finger nail. The guy at the SW store didn't have a real good answer, suggesting I try using it with the Kem-Bond instead of a non SW primer. Probably just a pitch to get me to buy another can, but it worked. What hasn't changed is the behavior of the industrial enamel. So while I've gotten a satisfactory coat after hours of work on the jointer, this is the end for industrial enamel.

IMG_2010 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2011 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2088 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2089 by david koenig, on Flickr

 

[250]

material rack

One project that I was able to finish, and that desperately needed to be done, was somewhere to store materials. I was tired of constantly shuffling and then tripping over, only to shuffle again the various piles of wood in the basement. Something needed to be done.

Given that I'm working with concrete walls, hanging something off the wall requires a bit of effort so I try and not have to go back with a change in plans later if possible. I picked an area of the basement between the hatch and my main work area to store stuff because there was an old, ratty shelving unit there that I could evict and I didn't really see anything else in my plans going there.

Here's the spot cleaned out.
IMG_2056 by david koenig, on Flickr

I looked at some premade material storage racks, particularly some from HD but ultimately went with the 2x4 and EMT route because I had some of each already lying around. Holes for the EMT arms and holes for the mounting screws.

IMG_2059 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2065 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2060 by david koenig, on Flickr

Mount with tapcon screws.
IMG_2069 by david koenig, on Flickr

Gave the boards a quick wipe with a BLO solution that I was trying out for another project and got it finished off.
IMG_2070 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2073 by david koenig, on Flickr

 

[Bob275]

Looks good and it's done now, but wouldn't it have been easier to build a 2x4 wall in front of the concrete and secure that to the floor joists and floor?

 

[bj383ss]

Good to see an update from you. Lumber rack looks nice and sturdy. The jointer looks great as well. My grandpa always had me touching up his machinery with a brush. Have you thought about thinning it down and spraying it?

That is a nice collection of bandsaw blades.

Bret

 

[250]

Bob, that probably would have been easier, but didn’t even cross my mind. This is very much a learn as I go affair, so I’m going to pocket that idea for future reference.

Bret, thanks for stopping by again. I have thought quite a bit about spraying instead of brushing, especially after spraying a bunch of our interior doors and the kitchen cabinets. Problem 1 is I’m prone to paralysis by analysis, and there’s been a little bit of that. Problem 2, directly caused by problem 1, is that I’ve come to the conclusion that if I’m going to go to the effort to get these machines into good mechanical and good cosmetic condition, I want a paint that doesn’t show every mark from every little thing that bumps into it. I’m a little slow to try products when they come in gallons only, but at some point I’m just going to try something and move forward.

To all visiting, happy thanksgiving. I for one am very thankful for the friends and family that we can spend the day with, the relative peace and prosperity enjoyed by the citizens of this country, and the men and women that protect this country. Thank you.

-David

 

[bczygan]

Now that I have my basement cleared out from the flood, I'm thinking of using it for something other than a flood zone.

Bill

 

[250]

bczygan, basements have an appeal, they can be nice and cozy during a long winter. They can also be cold, damp and a real pain to get stuff into. Hoping yours is the former.

Over thanksgiving I got to stop by and check out Zeph's Army Air Force garage. He's got a pretty nice 'little' set up there and it was a real treat to see it in person. I took the munchkin with me and he saw more OD than he knew even existed! Thanks Zeph!

I've tried a few different methods of cleaning up cast iron tops with the different machines I've worked on. Elbow grease with scotchbrite pads or sand paper, razor blades and even a belt sander. My preferred method at this point for a 'light cleaning' is a scotchbrite pad smashed onto a wire cup. Quick, doesn't kill your arms and its pretty forgiving if you don't run it down onto the wires to bad.

IMG_2098 by david koenig, on Flickr

Below are some before and afters.

IMG_1966 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_1967 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2154 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2228 by david koenig, on Flickr

As you may note, there is still some fine pitting left over. I decided to not go hog wild in cleaning the cast iron this time, unlike on the tablesaw. There are a few deep gouges so without a regrind it isn't going to be perfect anyways. So I cleaned it up and waxed down.

-David

 

[250]

The new Buffalo 18

Basement time has been a little lacking as of late with the holiday season in full swing. My jointer project has been put on hold yet again while I await parts delivery. More on that later. In the mean time I started in on my latest acquisition.

I've been on the casual outlook for a full size floor standing drill press with a table raising mechanism. I was open to a variety of old American companies but I was hoping to find either an older powermatic 1200, (to be the big brother to the 1100 that I already have) or an older Buffalo Forge (just like the look). My first old 'arn' purchase was a bit of a frankenstein Buffalo Forge from a retired machinist that was probably from the 30's, and its grown on me.

About 3 months ago I found a Buffalo that met the criteria. It also had a belt cover that I'd only seen once before, but as far as I can tell is OEM. The catch was the price, and the seller wasn't interested in negotiating. So I sat on it, vacillating on what to do. Our indian summer passed and fall was in full force when I saw it posted again. I contacted him, said I was still interested and gave him an offer. A little back and forth and it was mine. I was too slow to pull down a picture from the CL listing, but here is the page from the Buffalo Forge Co. machine catalog showing it on the left.

Buffalo No. 18-D by david koenig, on Flickr

Unload was a bit challenging by myself, but I managed to not break anything. I knew that at roughly 420lbs I was going to have to break it down a bit before getting it down the hatch. I really wanted to get the table off, but could figure out what was holding it on I went after the next best option, the head.

IMG_2202 by david koenig, on Flickr

I attacked it daily with Kroil after scraping the paint out of the threads and seams as much as I could. Kroil is some good stuff.
IMG_2232 by david koenig, on Flickr

I used the chain fall in the garage to pull the head off.
IMG_2233 by david koenig, on Flickr

Next was the wheel the remaining assembly around the hatch and get it inside before our first real snow of the year. However I wasn't able to finish the job that day due to rain, and I've learned that the stairs down into the hatch are wicked slick when wet and I wasn't going to jeopardize myself or the press. What this ultimately meant is that I had to get it down after work in the dark. It wasn't wet, but it was cold so I worked fast, didn't take pictures, and beat the snow by a few hours. Here's the headless column ready for further work.

IMG_2240 by david koenig, on Flickr

I started looking around at to what was holding the table on. Yes, someone painted over the machine surfaces but I highly doubted that was the problem. Applied more Kroil, fiddled and picked at it, more Kroil and so on.

IMG_2242 by david koenig, on Flickr

Then I found this pin hidden under the top layer of paint.
IMG_2241 by david koenig, on Flickr

It drove out easily, then with some whacks on the back of the table to get things moving, I was able to pull it off.
IMG_2244 by david koenig, on Flickr

Another 15-20 minutes and the lifting mechanism was off, broken down and ready for cleaning. Nice to make a little progress.

-David

 

[bj383ss]

Very cool can't wait to see how this one turns out. There is just no comparison to old iron tools from yesterday versus all of our new **** now that is covered in plastic and cheap recycled metal.

Bret

 

[250]

Buffalo 18 clean up, continued

I know there are mixed feelings out there about simple green, the objections mostly revolving around the flavor. I don't find it particularly obtrusive and it turns out, if you let old dirty parts soak for a bit, they clean up without a lot of elbow grease. So the last few days comprised of mostly the following.

Bolts and levers.
IMG_2258 by david koenig, on Flickr

The green tub.
IMG_2267 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2268 by david koenig, on Flickr

It also does a great job of softening up the superficial layers of paint.
IMG_2265 by david koenig, on Flickr

The gray seen here seems to be the factory original, and is considerably tougher. I will probably leave it alone if its in good shape.
IMG_2266 by david koenig, on Flickr

I also had a little discovery. During my initial 'kroiling' for disassembly I discovered that part of the table support mechanism was filled with something extra dry and extra caked in. Didn't give too much though to it and plopped the parts in the wash. You can see it in the picture below.
IMG_2242 by david koenig, on Flickr

Turns out it was a sponge. I wonder what the thought behind that was however many years ago.
IMG_2294 by david koenig, on Flickr

Its been a dirty job, but someone's got to do it.

-david

 

[yhprum]

That simple green works good, I do similar with drain cleaner crystals and water.

 

[1/2 Cup]

250, luv your work and attention to detail.

 

[250]

yhprum, thanks for stopping by. I wonder if I could even find drain cleaner crystals. There are a lot of things I can't find in Mass due to environmental regulations. But, I can drive down to rhode island and often find them.

Thanks 1/2 Cup. Some days the process is real love/hate. So far, it's been mostly love.

 

[250]

more cleaning

Nothing better to do when its -7f outside this morning than to slurp down some joe and get things clean. I picked up the Skat Blast box earlier this year and while it might sit for a bit between projects, its very handy to have around. After the simple green bath, it was off the the Skat Blast scrub.

IMG_2298 by david koenig, on Flickr

I guess the ol' girl was #9 in the chain link fence factory at some point.
IMG_2299 by david koenig, on Flickr

Because I use glass beads, some times I run into areas that don't clean well due to the consistency of the paint.
IMG_2300 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2301 by david koenig, on Flickr

Lots of parts ready to move on.

-david

 

[250]

This weeks auction

I participated in an online auction earlier this week and was really disappointed in the results. Given the fact that I have a career in a completely different field than anything that I putz around with on here, my employer expects me to be present and making them money during most days of the week. Thus I'm generally limited by the auctions that I can participate in to ones that are held online, and that have a pretty big pick up window.

This one held some promise and I'd picked out 9 lots to put "realistic" bids on. It was mostly what I'd call miscellaneous shop stuff. A tanker desk and table, shop cart, pallet jack, etc etc. Long story short is that being a new year, everyone's slush funds must be replenished and the bidding was out of control. There were several of the following type tables (which I couldn't bid on anyways because of their special clause for delayed pickup), which were going for $200-300 each!

111957303 by david koenig, on Flickr

I was bummed. There were come pieces with cool, old time "americana" feel to them that fit right in with my styling in machinery. Maybe someone that will appreciate them got them, but most likely some thumb that will just beat them to death. Can't save them all...

However, this one did follow me home.

111958077 by david koenig, on Flickr

Black and Decker 8in grinder with light shields and dunk cups. That's the picture from the auction, I haven't taken my own yet. When I was looking at it a week ago, I had a strong guess it was 3ph (it is) so that's probably the only reason I got it for a reasonable amount. There was a 8in delta of 50's vintage with same accessories that looked to be 1ph and I was winning that one for a long time but it wasn't meant to be.

Official first 'dirty thing' purchase for the year complete.

-david

 

[1/2 Cup]

250, that is one nice 8" grinder, you have done well..

 

[250]

I've found that some of the castings from however many decades ago can be pretty rough. I suppose the flip side of that some of those same castings are impressive in both weight and design. And I generally deal in very light industrial stuff. Some of the guys over on the OWWM website really know how to throw the weight around.

The last week or so I've been slowly working on getting this old girls base curves looking right. As you can see, there was room for improvement.

IMG_2302 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2303 by david koenig, on Flickr

I know this isn't everyone's cup of tea, and this is by no means a certain Index mill of great fame in Colorado, but its satisfying to take something with such a long history and give them new life. For the big, rough stuff I like using all-metal filler. Aluminum impregnated and a real pain to sand down it you leave a huge blob somewhere.

IMG_2304 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2332 by david koenig, on Flickr

-david

 

[250]

Finally some progress, part 1

The last few weeks down the hatch seems to be of the one step forward, two steps back. I felt like I was making zero progress no matter what I did. The projects had multiplied to a point where I could barely find a clean piece of horizontal real estate to start the next to do. About the only forward momentum seemed to be on the kitchen crown molding which I'd promised the Mrs would get done this winter. With the motivation level at an all time low in the shop, good as time as any to take three times as long as necessary to finish the kitchen project.

But this week we have progress, and its big progress. Last summer's project was the PM 60 jointer. Like most of these projects, it took much longer than anticipated for various reasons. The last major problem turned out to be a bad cutter head and unfortunately I don't have a metal lathe (yet) to turn down the shaft and put a sleeve on. I took the head to a couple different shops after work and the number seemed to be $300. Shoot, sounds like a good reason to upgrade to a shelix head for a few bucks more. I do my research and place my order. Could be a little back ordered, looking at probably 3-4 weeks. Ok, no problem.

As you can imagine I was pleasantly surprised when the head arrived early. Got my fresh bearings out and went to town... and that's where it all ground to a halt. Powermatic had (maybe still has, don't know) a bit of a habit of having multiple different bearing/cutting head combos on both their jointers and planers. For the PM 60, there were 3 listed with the oldest variant having 1 R12 and 1 6204. 'Bzzzz, wrong answer hanz!' My original head had two 2 R12's.

A long and sum what frustrating few weeks followed where I sent the head back to the manufacture to have the second bearing seat machined down to R12 specs. Finally it returned and I was able to get it mounted up for a test run.

IMG_2405 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2403 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2406 by david koenig, on Flickr

That was one of the happiest moments I've had down the hatch in a while. I still have to work on the badges for it, but I now have functioning jointer, roughly 18 months after picking her up.

 

[250]

Finally some progress, part 2

Around the same time I was getting the scoop on the original cutting head, Big Blue started acting up. She was making banging noises as tank pressure rose though the filling cycle. Banging isn't good...

These models are known to have the HP wrist pin go bad, so since I couldn't locate a strong source of the noise in the top end, the wrist pin seemed to be as likely culprit as any. I really didn't want to tear it apart, I'd never tackled anything of that nature before and I was more than a little concerned as to what I'd find and if I'd be able to get it back together. But I didn't really have much to loose, so open her up I did.

While I didn't find a bad wrist pin, I did find seized wrings on the HP side and according the expert GJ opinion, that appeared to be the only real issue based on the photos. I got myself a rebuild kit, and lots of good tech info, from Pacific Air Compressors, based on a plug I read on another thread here. I'd happily order from them again.

I got the cylinder block honed to break the glaze. Thankfully there wasn't any damage to the walls. I then worked on replacing the rings. No problem with the LP side, but the HP ones put up a fight to get out.

Old rings
IMG_2320 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2363 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2364 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2365 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2366 by david koenig, on Flickr

 

[250]

Finally some progress, part 3

With all parts refreshed and in hand, it was time to put her back together.

New rings
IMG_2369 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2370 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_2371 by david koenig, on Flickr

I used the chain fall to lower the cylinder block back down. Doesn't get tired of holding like my human assistant does.
IMG_2379 by david koenig, on Flickr

And got the rods connected with the matching end caps.
IMG_2380 by david koenig, on Flickr

Quincy uses these shims to take out any play in the crank. Instead of reinventing the wheel, I simply put the old shims back in, torqued it down and checked the play with a dial indicator. Within spec... perfect. I then rewired the motor up and gave it a quick test run and nothing sounded funny. Lastly the head and valves went back on, then filled the crank case with oil and called it a night.

The following evening after work I went down and fired it up. And immediately turning it off. There was a new and very loud bang bang bang... It actually turned out to be one of the LP intake valves wasn't tight, so while it made terrible noise it didn't damage anything. With all the valves retightened and everything I could thing of triple checked, I turned it one again.

'chug chug chug'

Success! Two projects wrapped up in less than a day, and most of the table space is clear once again.

-david

 

[bj383ss]

250 awesome news on both projects done. I love seeing a freshly honed cylinder wall. I have used the metal to metal filler on my 64 on all the places I welded in patches. It is also waterproof unlike most plastic fillers. It is a little tricky to mix up though since the activator is clear and you can't really tell when it is all mixed up. The stuff I use is not hard to sand though.

The stuff you have my dad use to use. He had a can left he was going to give me but it was all dried up so I bought this one off of Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P72HG8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Man you are the second person in the last couple of days to post a shelix cutter upgrade. Would really love one of those for my planer but he cutterhead cost more than my planer did.

Bret

 

[250]

Bret, Thanks for the suggestion. I'm pretty sure I've seen that Everclear product before. I'll have to give it a try when I run out of the current stuff.

Granted I didn't get to try the jointer with traditional knives, but the shelix is smoooooth. And I never have to set the knives. While not the original plan, as the project developed it seemed the 'logical' choice. But you're right. Planer heads are really up there, they seem disproportionately than those for jointers.

-david

 

[yhprum]

Looks good there David. I grew up in Mass just across the border from Woonsocket. I remember how much fun it was bringing heavy stuff down the stairs just like yours.

 

[250]

yhprum- thanks for stopping by. My apologies for the late replay, things sometimes have away of getting away from me. Must be quite a story how you ended up in the land down under from new england...

 

[250]

Flash Back Friday

I've been making slow progress on the Buffalo. Spring has finally arrived so that typically brings on a whole pile of work, but I've managed to actually get some projects finished! Just not the drill press...

During one of my sessions of mindless sanding or digging or something, I started thinking about some of the events before the official start of the thread, and that I could make a couple updates out of it.

My first machine resto was the Powermatic 65 table saw that has been seen kicking around in the background. In some ways its the table saw that got me started down this slippery slope. That and the 'no more motorcycles' conversation. In the fall of '15 I wasn't looking specifically for a PM, in fact I didn't really like Powermatic's at first, and for no real good reason. Its not like I'd ever actually used one to form an informed opinion on the matter. A couple weeks before I'd had a guy sell a Unisaw out from under me while I was driving to pick it up. I was wicked torqued on the way home, bombing up I-84 with my empty uhaul trailer bouncing along behind. It wasn't a bad looking saw (still sitting there while the guy mulled over other stuff for sale) but the PM 65 that came a long a little later turned out to be a better candidate for my plans.

Here she is after getting her back home. The one and only arn pickup my wife has gone on.
IMG_1507 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_1508 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_1513 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_1516 by david koenig, on Flickr

It had seen a few miles, and at least some of those miles were probably in a school given that a brett guard had been mounted. It came with a whole box of blades (which are collecting dust somewhere to eventually get tossed), the six foot rail to go with the six foot CI table, two miter gauges, and the OEM wrench.

So that was the starting canvas and I went to work. Cleaning, scraping, stripping, etc etc etc that comes with this. I found and purchased some parts from Joe, the late owner of plaza machinery up in New Hampshire. Real nice guy, had a real wealth of stuff in his inventory and its a true shame that he passes only a few months after doing business with him.

Here are the finished photos. If someone wants to see the longer resto and more pictures, here's the link to the OWWM site.
http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=167638

IMG_1625 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_1626 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_1627 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_1628 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_1629 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_1596 by david koenig, on Flickr

IMG_1630 by david koenig, on Flickr
Born 1963.

One of the items I purchased from Joe was a shorter rail set. Don't really know why I did, maybe he talked me into it, maybe I had some plan that is now long gone when we were talking. Either way, I've come to realize that in my current setup, that is with no permanent outfeed table, I don't need the full width of the CI table. All it was doing was collecting clutter... shocking I know. So one of my projects this spring was to take out the middle expansion section of the table and put on the shorter rails. I haven't spent much time in the shop since I did that, so we'll see how it works out in the future.

-david

 

[royce]

Great thread and fine workmanship

Royce