Downsizing a garage door

[BK777]

Hi all. First post here. I've searched around for some info on my situation but haven't had much luck. Currently I have a detached garage/shop with a door between the garage and shop. For a number of reasons, I'd like to remove this door. But if I do, the only way to get into the garage will be to open the 7x16 lift door. For convenience sake, keeping the elements out, etc., I'd like to install a regular door as well.

However... there is no space in the front of the building for this door. My first thought was to replace or modify the lift door with a pass-through door. Long story short, after reading a few helpful threads on this site and elsewhere, I decided against that. I priced a new commercial type garage door w/ pass-through and it was going to be $3500. I'm passing on that as well...

Next option is to remove the existing door and cut it down by 4 feet. Then do some re-framing and reinstall the garage door along with a 32 inch door. I've seen some videos on modifying metal/foam style garage doors (also dealing with springs) and it sounds fairly do-able.

So my main concern is with the framing. That's what I'm looking for some advice on. Here's a drawing of the garage door with frame detail as it currently stands.

Here is my proposal for the new framing. Note the cripple studs will continue across the top. I just drew the first few.

So, I see two potential issues.

1 -- The new king studs will terminate at the rather massive header, not at the top plate. I don't know enough about code to determine whether this would be OK.

2 -- The wall between doors will be minimal, about 12 inches. I know it is very important to anchor the sill plate securely to the concrete floor. Would 2 or 3 wedge anchors be sufficient?

Any thoughts or suggestions on this plan? Or is it out in left field? I don't have a lot of experience with garage door framing but I know there are some big forces at play. I want to make sure the wall is at least as strong as it is now. Thanks!!!

 

[larry4406]

Welcome to the forum.

1. Your new "king" studs (jacks) do not need to go all the way to the to plate. Toe nail to the header and move on. The header still spans its original distance.

2. Yes on wedge anchors or shoot concrete nails

 

[matt_i]

I don't think you need all of the "beef" at the new edge of the garage door. I think double jacks would be sufficient.

Personally I like epoxy anchors (epoxied threaded rods), a little more work but they impart no stress in the concrete other than the bolt torque/clampload. Especially for a situation where they are very close to each other. If the concrete cracks there due to the double wedge-load, the anchors loosen up....

Also, another personal preference is that I don't toenail. Instead, I use the Kreg Jig and put deck screws thru it. I think they make a setup for 2x framing lumber, I just have the old jig for 3/4" cabinet frame work.

 

[DCarr2]

Looks like a solid design to me...

However, have you considered going with a 36" door vs a 32" door instead?

 

[6768rogues]

The opening should already be adequately framed with the existing header and jack studs. You don't need to add support. All you need is enough framing to support the doors and sheathing with no additional load carrying members needed. I would use a double stud at each side of the filled in area simply to have more support and fastening surface for the doors, not for support of the header.
I also noticed that your overhead door is 7 feet tall. If you want a 7 foot tall walk in prehung door, the opening is not tall enough. If you want a 6 foot 8 inch door, the opening is too tall. Not a big deal to throw in another member at the top of the door opening to bring it down.

 

[BK777]

Thanks everyone, this is encouraging.

@matt_i I'll look into the epoxy anchors. I don't really know anything about how this slab was constructed. There is in fact a crack right about where the sill plate would be.

As an fan of over-engineering things , I've never been too confident in toe nailing either -- especially in a more stress intensive area. The Kreg sounds like a good idea.

@DCarr2 I could go 36" but I figured a little more space in the frame would be a good thing. It probably wouldn't matter much either way. This door will mainly be used for convenience i.e. popping in to grab a tool or whatever. The wife thinks it's overkill but I know she'll appreciate it once it's there -- just like that utility sink in the house...

 

[6768rogues]

You will appreciate the walk in door if a lightning strike takes out your overhead door operator and the door is closed.
After thinking it was rare, one summer a few years ago I was made aware of 4 garage door openers that got lightning strikes. Interestingly all 4 opened the door and then fried for good. The people came home to find a dead operator and an open door. That is why I turn off the circuit breakers for my doors when I go away for vacation, so the door cannot open.

 

[BK777]

If you want a 7 foot tall walk in prehung door, the opening is not tall enough. If you want a 6 foot 8 inch door, the opening is too tall. Not a big deal to throw in another member at the top of the door opening to bring it down.

I hadn't quite worked out the details on that but figured I could always drop the top a little (and/or opt for a higher threshold to help keep the weather out).

 

[kbs2244]

You are not doing anything structural.
Your plan is fine.

But I do think you will be happier with a 36 inch door.
That is the standard size for outside doors.
32 inches is for inside.

 

[firebirdparts]

Great advice all around. Beware that little short walls are difficult to hold still at the floor. You need the bottom plate to be accessible (not covered with studs) for two anchors that are "far enough" apart to hold it still. Out on the very edge of that stuff you'll be hanging a swinging weight, so that has an impact on what "far enough" looks like.

 

[BK777]

The short wall was one of my main concerns. I've been looking into epoxy anchor options. I figured I could anchor the PT sill plate (2 anchors), then attach a second plate (drilling out space for the anchors if necessary). That should work, no? Then I'd have a "blank slate" to attach the studs. And I probably will use GRK screws to assemble this tiny wall.

 

[BK777]

In addition to the previous question (about securing the short wall), I had another thought. How do I protect the siding on the other side from rain & snow? The rest of the building has a short concrete "wall" to accomplish this (see the drawing). So the siding ends about 12" from the ground.

Are there any threads on this? I could lay a course of concrete blocks there & then place the sill plate on top to raise everything up -- but then I'd have more points of failure when it comes to anchoring it all down.

Seems this makes things a little more complicated.

 

[ard]

You sure there isn't 36-42 inches of wall you could put a door into??? Cutting down that little concrete stem wall would seem easier that hacking up a functioning garage door, tracks, etc,etc

In terms of that wall that goes to the ground now: It's like any other wall, use pressure treated, seal that plate as well as the door threshold down to the concrete with sealant, use proper waterproofing on the wall, integrate that into the door frame flashing, etc, etc.

You have a walking path to the door AND a driveway. Snow will not be piled up there.

If you WERE going to c

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

2 points. Can you swing the door the other way, taking the hinge stress off the short wall? You can use cement board on the bottom of the wall and parge it. It will blend in after it ages a little. Basically you need to pin the bottom and that could be 2 re-bar drilled into the concrete and then drilled into a 4x4 as a bottom plate. Stud up from there and pad the opening for the garage door with 2x6, that will help tie plates and studs all together. Hope this helps.

 

[Beemie]

There probably is a code requirement on how close your wood construction is to the finish grade, which would be your driveway in this case.
Around here it's 8".
You'll probably need, and want, to raise the base of the new wall with a concrete curb wall.
If you don't you'll get rot in no time.

 

[Beemie]

It seems to me that I have seen overhead doors with built in pass doors.
I think some call them walk through garage doors.

 

[BK777]

@ard Believe me I've looked. The only options would be around the far side or rear of the building (which defeats the purpose), or that little space next to the existing garage door shown in the drawing. There's a partition wall right there too. I seriously doubt I could put a door in that space without considerably weakening the framing -- It would have to be a really narrow door & I'd have to cut that stem wall, probably all of it, then re-frame that whole section.

This is why I seriously considered the pass-thru door first.

@Hot Rod Grampa Actually I did decide to reverse the door. So that makes for less demand on the wall.

I think I get the parging idea -- I had to look it up. Something along the lines of Hardibacker in place of the siding up to about 12 inches, then wood siding overlapping that (I assume I'd have to place some kind of shim behind the siding to allow for the overlap)? I'll have to do some research on the parging process. I'm hung up on where the hardi meets the concrete. I guess I could just caulk that, then parge over the whole thing, right to the ground? Sorry, more questions...

I was looking into building some forms and making a little 13"L x 7"W x 12"H foundation wall (pinned to the floor with rebar) just to match the rest of the building and avoid the whole weather proofing issue. Also a massive pain.

 

[6768rogues]

Around here 32" exterior doors are common, as are 36". Our code requires at least one 36" door. Interestingly, most old houses here have a 36" living room door because they used to have funerals in the home and they needed a 36" door to get the casket through.
All that said, I have a 36" door in my outbuilding and I am pleased with it.