Doyle?? Best Cheap Rivet Nut/Nutsert Tool?

[CloudsRest]

I need a rivnut tool soon to mount a custom roof rack to a Tacoma and some rock sliders to the subframe on an XJ. Normally I’m all about quality tools, but dropping $300 on a pro grade rivnut tool isn’t an option at the moment. There are cheap ones on Amazon (Amjoy) that go up to 3/8”/M10 for about $50, and Doyle at Harbor Freight for $40 with a coupon that goes up to 5/16”/M8. Initially I was thinking of using 3/8 bolts, but 5/16 would probably work...I just like to overbuild things. The roof rack is for a solar panel and traction boards, and the subframe slider mounts just stabilize the sliders, they don’t hold the weight put on them.

I’ve read good things about Doyle, to the point that it’s a solid mid-grade brand from…dun dun dun…Harbor Freight. The Doyle rivnut tool is made in china and not Taiwan though. Is it going to be a better piece of equipment than a cheap generic Amazon special or will both be junk?

 

[quickfarms]

They make quality wrench rivet nut setters

I have a decent quality pop rivet style tool and several of the wrench rivet nut setters

McMaster Carr sells so decent ones

 

[rsanter]

I have the harbor freight one.
It has worked well for the 6 times I have used it

 

[no704]

Get the Astro tools one that goes in a cordless drill!

 

[lilredex]

Bolt and nut is the cheapest. That's what i used when I had roof racks to mount.

 

[timgunn1962]

Very limited experience here: I may have pulled a couple of thousand rivnuts over the last 35 years: an average of maybe one a week?

Bolt and nut works well and is cheap. It also handles steel and stainless Rivnuts in any size you can get nuts and bolts for. It doesn't really mind whether you are in thin material that is easy to dent/deform when using the lever type.

Lever type is quick and great when you have good access and a strong/stiff enough structure to tolerate the forces that you'll put into it when you pull the rivnut. The Ratchet tools are excellent, but are essentially just a fancy nut and bolt.

In the shop, I use the lever type occasionally up to M8 in Aluminium and M6 in steel or stainless. For M8 steel and up to M12, I use a ratchet tool because I have it (bought for a site job where Risk Assessments and Method Statements were needed and the nut and bolt method wasn't going to be smiled upon).

For most of my site work, where there are only a small number of rivnuts needed. The nut-and-bolt method usually involves less effort than getting the "correct" tool to the job, so is the one that gets used.

Whatever you go with, buy plenty of the rivnuts and practice first. In your shoes, I'd get the rivnuts and try the nut-and-bolt method on some scrap, then decide whether a purpose-designed tool is needed.

 

[CloudsRest]

Very limited experience here: I may have pulled a couple of thousand rivnuts over the last 35 years: an average of maybe one a week?

Bolt and nut works well and is cheap. It also handles steel and stainless Rivnuts in any size you can get nuts and bolts for. It doesn't really mind whether you are in thin material that is easy to dent/deform when using the lever type.

Lever type is quick and great when you have good access and a strong/stiff enough structure to tolerate the forces that you'll put into it when you pull the rivnut. The Ratchet tools are excellent, but are essentially just a fancy nut and bolt.

In the shop, I use the lever type occasionally up to M8 in Aluminium and M6 in steel or stainless. For M8 steel and up to M12, I use a ratchet tool because I have it (bought for a site job where Risk Assessments and Method Statements were needed and the nut and bolt method wasn't going to be smiled upon).

For most of my site work, where there are only a small number of rivnuts needed. The nut-and-bolt method usually involves less effort than getting the "correct" tool to the job, so is the one that gets used.

Whatever you go with, buy plenty of the rivnuts and practice first. In your shoes, I'd get the rivnuts and try the nut-and-bolt method on some scrap, then decide whether a purpose-designed tool is needed.

Thanks! This is really helpful. I just watched a video on the nut and bolt method and feel kinda silly for not thinking of it myself. I’ll go that route.

 

[MarineScott]

Get the Astro tools one that goes in a cordless drill!

Picture or part # ?

 

[Wrench97]

Picture or part # ?

ADN14 > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JBO58FM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[MarineScott]

ADN14 > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JBO58FM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Thank you! didn't know there is such a thing. I have the hand tool version.

 

[finn]

The Astro with the 13” handles works for me.

I previously has a pop rivet style import knockoff that I disguarded after the mandrill failed on the second use.

Haven’t had much luck with HF knockoffs over the years, but some like them so perhaps quality has improved .

 

[Komet]

I've been very pleased with my Astro Pneumatic rivnut gear.

 

[Jazz1]

Our local paint and body supply shop rents out the RIVNUT tool for $5,,I've rented it twice the past 20 years. Once for installing roof racks on 4Runner, and once for installing RIVNUTS in aluminum boat

 

[JJ99SS]

Astro was what I got to mount a-track rails in my '04 taco bed for movable tie downs. I put in four 4' sections on the floor, tailgate and the rail on the front of the bed. Worked great, but I had room to work too...

I use those to secure gear and my cooler when I go to Moab to wheel and camp. All my stuff would bounce and shift w/o it being tied down.

***Side note, I highly recommend using transfer punches when possible and or appropriate when drilling the holes for the rivnuts. Especially if you are having to have them be spot on for mounting things w/ multiple holes and alignment is critical. Spellmaco make a nice set (amazon). They will insure you find the center of almost any mounting hole for marking and punching your center point for your drill bit so it doesn't wonder off and mess up your bolt alignment/rivnut placement.

Trust me, drilling holes, mounting rivnuts and then going to install your whatever and the bolts don't line up is...the worst feeling. Because once you drill the hole there is almost no way to undo it for a second go, for most of us there is NO way. IF you are lucky you can make due w/o one bolt but that isn't ideal either. Mark all your holes carefully, use a center punch at the very least if you don't get transfer punches, and check them 10 times before you drill.

 

[ZRX61]

I have this version from Amazon... no issues. It was about $70-$80

 

[Under_Pressure]

They make quality wrench rivet nut setters

I have a decent quality pop rivet style tool and several of the wrench rivet nut setters

McMaster Carr sells so decent ones

Yeah, I bought a nice Marson heavy duty nut setter, but honestly pretty much every time I've actually had to use rivet nuts since they have been in a location such that I've had to buy a wrench type tool of the appropriate size to get the job done.

 

[tarbellb]

Astro was what I got to mount a-track rails in my '04 taco bed for movable tie downs. I put in four 4' sections on the floor, tailgate and the rail on the front of the bed. Worked great, but I had room to work too...

I use those to secure gear and my cooler when I go to Moab to wheel and camp. All my stuff would bounce and shift w/o it being tied down.

***Side note, I highly recommend using transfer punches when possible and or appropriate when drilling the holes for the rivnuts. Especially if you are having to have them be spot on for mounting things w/ multiple holes and alignment is critical. Spellmaco make a nice set (amazon). They will insure you find the center of almost any mounting hole for marking and punching your center point for your drill bit so it doesn't wonder off and mess up your bolt alignment/rivnut placement.

Trust me, drilling holes, mounting rivnuts and then going to install your whatever and the bolts don't line up is...the worst feeling. Because once you drill the hole there is almost no way to undo it for a second go, for most of us there is NO way. IF you are lucky you can make due w/o one bolt but that isn't ideal either. Mark all your holes carefully, use a center punch at the very least if you don't get transfer punches, and check them 10 times before you drill.

Couple of great solutions to look into:

centering transfer punch-

self centering drill bits (typically for wood doors/hinges) -