DP-600

[Nmhuntr]

Just picked up this used rough DP-600. Think it is from about mid 40’s. I have been told it has a Morse taper chuck but I don’t really understand what that means. Can someone here provide an explanation? I am going to break it all down clean and paint it and of course put a proper switch on it. Also, I don’t know where to find an actual model number if anyone can help me out there as well.

Thanks a lot

 

[Davefr]

Just picked up this used rough DP-600. Think it is from about mid 40’s. I have been told it has a Morse taper chuck but I don’t really understand what that means. Can someone here provide an explanation? I am going to break it all down clean and paint it and of course put a proper switch on it. Also, I don’t know where to find an actual model number if anyone can help me out there as well.

Thanks a lot

The arbor has two tapered male ends. The socket on the spindle is Morse MT2. The chuck to arbor taper can vary. JT33 is pretty common.

Model number is 17-600. The serial number is likely 17-XXXX.

Those are fabulous machines and rewarding to restore. Make sure you replace or service all 4 bearings + motor bearings. Consider converting it to 3 phase with VFD. (a VFD on a DP is a marriage made in heaven)

Rebuilding the spindle/quill can be a little tricky but there's videos and how to's.

How do you plan to strip it?

 

[Nmhuntr]

Not sure on stripping it. I’ll break it down first and probably use different approaches. I rebuild vises and soak them in simple green a few days to help remove paint. A friend of mine has a tumbler I may use for the heavy pieces and maybe some sand blast for the top cover. Here is the SN. Very worn but appears to be “46-7295”. No idea what to make of it. Thanks a lot for the response. Any ideas are appreciated

 

[Davefr]

Not sure on stripping it. I’ll break it down first and probably use different approaches. I rebuild vises and soak them in simple green a few days to help remove paint. A friend of mine has a tumbler I may use for the heavy pieces and maybe some sand blast for the top cover. Here is the SN. Very worn but appears to be “46-7295”. No idea what to make of it. Thanks a lot for the response. Any ideas are appreciated

I'm mistaken. The serial number doesn't correlate to the model number. The way to date your machine
is to go to vintagemachinery.org's database and look for similar serial number prefixes and see the approx. year. I don't know of any chart showing S.N. prefix vs date.

 

[Whitworth]

Serial would make it 1946.
I'd keep it single phase, with the step pulley you get several speeds and with minimal tuning that is a very smooth running drill press. It should purr like a kitten when all is done.

 

[yhprum]

If you google Morse taper chuck, you will see there is a tapered shaft attached to the drill chuck. This fits inside the drill press shaft. Usually a tap pr two with a mallet will seat it. Some drills will have a rectangular slot in the drill press shaft. You use this with a tapered wedge to unseat the chuck assembly.
Like this:

 

[Packard V8]

Agree, the DP600 17" Delta is one of the best of home shop/light industrial DPs.

For heavy repetitive drilling, there are #2 Morse Taper shank bits in sizes 1/2" to 3/4". There is a #2 to #1 sleeve adapter which accepts #1 MT bits from 1/2" to 1/4".

Using a chuck on an adapter into the #2 MT spindle is a bit of a kluge which puts the drill point a long way from the spindle bearings and lessens the accuracy. Best which can be said for it is it sorta works.

If a chuck is to be used all the time instead of MT shank bits, it's much better to change the spindle to the JT33 taper which mounts the chuck directly under the bearings.

jack vines