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DP Restoration Questions

TravisT

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2011
Messages
156
Location
NoVA
So after a long search, I finally picked up a drill press. A little more info here.

I'm trying to figure out just which direction I want to go with the restoration/rebuild. I've read a lot, but would like to get some specific advice.

1. Cleaning up the column. I've started the WD-40/white scotchbrite pad work. I'm considering the 1/2" drill press polishing lathe as well as getting some buffing pads for my bench grinder. Tips? Also, once it's all cleaned up, I've seen others use anything from paste wax to boiled linseed oil (BLO) to protect the metal. Is there an agreed best way to attack this?

2. Pulleys. The pulley's on both the head and the motor are in pretty bad shape. I'd like to restore them, but I think they are too far gone. Are these universal pulleys, or are they specific to the drill press. I haven't removed these yet to investigate further.

3. Paint. Is there a preferred paint/process for cast iron? I've always used VHT high temp paint when painting engine blocks, and it has come out pretty good.

Hopefully having answers to these questions all in one place will help more than just me.
 
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454ragtop

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Joined
Mar 24, 2008
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5,011
Location
Carver, MA
I usually use a wire wheel to clean up bare metal parts, can buff after if you want.
What's wrong with the pulleys? Be very careful with them, they're a matched set, so that you don't have to adjust the belt tension whenever you want to change speeds. They tend to be fragile, and replacements are usually very tough to come by, especially the spindle pulley which probably has splines cut to match the spindle. They can be tough to remove, many getting broken in the process, so again, BE CAREFUL, think before using a puller or prying on them. Motor pulleys, check for set screws on top of set screws, then soak with penetrating oil, and I find it usually works best to carefully tap them further on the motor shaft to loosen them up a little before trying to get them off.
As for paint, no need for high temp, I like PlastiCote if you can find it, they have a very nice blue/gray # T10, if you want to go that route.
HTH, Jim
 

pendragon1998

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Joined
Mar 24, 2012
Messages
3,733
Location
NE Georgia
1. I ended up improvising a cradle for my grinder pedestal column, then connected it to a drill and spun it, lathe style, while sanding it with fine grit to remove rust. A proper lathe would work better.

2. Can't help you.

3. What worked for me was to just clean and degrease well, hit with an etching primer, then a good enamel. Follow can directions to the letter and allow for a good long cure time. Unpainted bare cast iron and steel gets a coat of paste wax.
 

d.mcfarland

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Jun 18, 2012
Messages
6,596
Location
Western PA
For the pulleys, check eBay for people selling them. Might be easier than making, or repairing your own.
 

bmw57isetta

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Joined
Apr 27, 2010
Messages
268
Location
Austin, Texas
TravisT:

Nice score on the DP! I had to replace the motor pulley on my Duro due to it having fallen over when the previous owner moved it. The new one is made by Congress Drives out of Detroit and was a perfect fit. Got it from Electric Motor Warehouse online. Ran around $30 with shipping.

They sent me a sleeve so it would fit both 1/2" and 3/8" motor shafts. It uses a set screw, not a keyway, to secure it. As 454ragtop stated, make sure you match up the diameter, number of steps and height before you order. They make a metric ton of these things so you should be able to match it up.

The splined spindle (how's that for an anagram?) pulley is another story though. eBay might be the best alternative for that although I'd visit your local electric motor shop first. If they've been around for a long time like the main one we have here in Austin, you might be surprised to find what the've got out back just for the asking. Take your spindle with you if you go and make sure of what you're getting. I've seen them pop up on CL from time to time as well.

Keep us posted on your progress. And paint it any way you like. I doubt there's a wrong answer to that one. Just make sure you mask off the machined parts of the casting where the quill moves though, the column holes in both head and table8 and any other holes such as the head and table locks.
 
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T

TravisT

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Joined
Oct 22, 2011
Messages
156
Location
NoVA
The splined spindle appears to be the one that is the worst off, although not that bad. It is bent in a couple places, I'm sure from prying the belt off. I'll know more once I get to tearing that down more.

I'm hoping I won't have any issues getting everything apart. If taking the column out of the base is any indication, it should be easy. A little wd-40 and two taps of a rubber mallet and it came right out.


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sgs236

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Joined
Jan 8, 2013
Messages
602
Location
Fairmont, WV
I usually use a wire wheel to clean up bare metal parts, can buff after if you want.
What's wrong with the pulleys? Be very careful with them, they're a matched set, so that you don't have to adjust the belt tension whenever you want to change speeds. They tend to be fragile, and replacements are usually very tough to come by, especially the spindle pulley which probably has splines cut to match the spindle. They can be tough to remove, many getting broken in the process, so again, BE CAREFUL, think before using a puller or prying on them. Motor pulleys, check for set screws on top of set screws, then soak with penetrating oil, and I find it usually works best to carefully tap them further on the motor shaft to loosen them up a little before trying to get them off.
As for paint, no need for high temp, I like PlastiCote if you can find it, they have a very nice blue/gray # T10, if you want to go that route.
HTH, Jim

Thats a good tip right there.
 

tiggi

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Joined
Sep 12, 2014
Messages
253
Location
USA
1. Cleaning up the column. I've started the WD-40/white scotchbrite pad work. I'm considering the 1/2" drill press polishing lathe as well as getting some buffing pads for my bench grinder. Tips? Also, once it's all cleaned up, I've seen others use anything from paste wax to boiled linseed oil (BLO) to protect the metal. Is there an agreed best way to attack this?

For best and easiest result you would need to spin the column in the lathe. I usually use different grits of sand paper, anywhere starting from 60 all the way to 1500. It all depends on the condition. If you don't have a lathe you can rig it using a hand drill. I also do this for any part that can be spun, even the pulleys.
 
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TravisT

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Joined
Oct 22, 2011
Messages
156
Location
NoVA
I made good use of my kids training wheels that had been laying around. The column is looking much better already, but still has a long way to go.

What about pulley repair? Any easy way to true them up where they're bent?

Thanks for the tips so far.


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454ragtop

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Mar 24, 2008
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Location
Carver, MA
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TravisT

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Joined
Oct 22, 2011
Messages
156
Location
NoVA
I'll post some pictures of the pulleys as soon as I start working on the head. I'm going to work on the post first, then the base, and work my way up.

I guess I should start a build thread...
 
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TravisT

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Joined
Oct 22, 2011
Messages
156
Location
NoVA
And I was going to concrete the column into the ground...

(Kidding)


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