Drawer slide not removable

[ronaldSwanson]

I picked up a new project box tonight (KRA4107/4114 combo) and as usual, began by removing all the drawers and slides but found that I am unable to remove the top slides in the top box (KRA 4114). I seems as if the slides are too close to one another as well as too close to the underside of inside.

Has anyone else seen this before and if so, what's the process for getting these slides out?

 

[Aquamoose]

No two ways about it. Gotta still out the rivets. The proper size bit can be determined by the similar holes beneath it. Usually it’s 3/16”.


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[ronaldSwanson]

No two ways about it. Gotta still out the rivets. The proper size bit can be determined by the similar holes beneath it. Usually it’s 3/16”.

If you are referring to the holes in the middle of the slides, those are actually threaded holes for a small screw to hold the slides and not rivets. The top slide had a screw there but I had already removed it.


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[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

I picked up a new project box tonight (KRA4107/4114 combo) and as usual, began by removing all the drawers and slides but found that I am unable to remove the top slides in the top box (KRA 4114). I seems as if the slides are too close to one another as well as too close to the underside of inside.

Has anyone else seen this before and if so, what's the process for getting these slides out?

Yes, on the KR 637. I could remove some but not all the slides.

I don't know what the solution is. If they really don't need to be removed, I wouldn't worry about it.

If you are referring to the holes in the middle of the slides, those are actually threaded holes for a small screw to hold the slides and not rivets. The top slide had a screw there but I had already removed it.

On the older 637s, the slides were riveted in. Then they changed to the threaded screws, which was much better.

 

[MJO]

I have this box (you'll see I changed the drawer configuration), they come out, they have a "detent" that clicks in, use a 90 angle screw driver to pry the slide away from the side, twist and push up and then pull forward, you'll have to start with the top one.

 

[ronaldSwanson]

That is how I got the rest out but if you look closely at the photo with the slides, the top slide is touching the indent at the top already so it can not go up as usual. Any chance you have photos of your slides with the drawer out from when you switched them around?

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

Yes, photos would help a lot. I don't have to change out the top two ball bearing slides on my box, but I'd like to.

 

[MJO]

That is how I got the rest out but if you look closely at the photo with the slides, the top slide is touching the indent at the top already so it can not go up as usual. Any chance you have photos of your slides with the drawer out from when you switched them around?

You might have to bend that part up or remove it (don't think mine has that), I can't see any reason it's needed. Mine was real tight so I twisted at the top enough to pull it out while cursing the idiot that engineered it. You just have to move it enough to get the front clip out. I would definitely move the thin drawers below the double drawer one, put that at the top and it'll never be a problem again (I moved all mine to the bottom box, I'd like to find 2 or 4 thin drawers for the top).

 

[Wamsutta]

Some of those Snap-on slides will have a claw welded to the slide that snaps into one of those windows; and I don't mean the bayonets either. The best way to find the location of the claw is to slide a credit card between the slide and the wall. When you find the location of the claw, pry as close to it as possible. If you have to pry too hard and the metal is flexing, STOP.

 

[MJO]

I looked t mine this morning and I don't have that little piece that's bent down, I'd just remove it, put it back after the slides are removed if you think it's needed. After that's out of the way the slides will come out, it'll still be a pain in the backside.

 

[ronaldSwanson]

Upon further inspection, I was able to get the slides out. It seems that the engineers designed the top cutouts in the box in such a way that you have to pull the entire slide forward before it can be rotated and removed as normal. Here’s a pic of the top cutout showing the difference.





After roughly 6-7 hrs of elbow grease, I was able to get all the spray paint and years of grime off the cabinet and do a further assessment. It will need touched up in a handful of spots and a good cut/polish but should turn out decent when finished.

Still need to clean the drawers and slides to see what they need.

 

[81turbota]

Fantastic progress!

 

[MJO]

Not sure what the original configuration is but on the bottom box if the skinny drawer is on the top I'd move it down and put a larger drawer at the top you'll get much better access to the back of the skinny drawer, not a problem on the top box other than getting the slides out. The locks will work no matter where you put the drawers.

 

[ronaldSwanson]

Started cleaning the drawers and slides today and found that the previous owner at some point had used foam in the drawers to outline his tools, but instead of cutting it outside the box, he simply cut around the tools in the drawer which left down to metal scratches in the bottom of alot of drawers.

He also seemed to have glued his foam to the drawer using some serious glue as I have yet to get it all off.

Out of all the slides, only 4 sets were salvageable as well.