Dream Becomes Reality (32x40x12)

[stngfever]

Been lurking for awhile gathering ideas and information. Hired a contractor this past summer to build the base building. Ground breaking took place on 7/22.

Basic plan is for a 32'x40'x12' Pole Barn structure, 3-9'x8' overhead doors with highrise, 4" cement slab (6" 6'x15' for 2 post lift), 4 floor drains (one for each bay and one for sink), 6x13 room for air compressor and storage (4.5' height in Loft above for furnace and additional storage).



View from back deck prior to ground breaking:



Advantage of having an excavator live next door:




Augering Holes: (First glitch in the build, so much natural sand caused most of the holes to collapse during this process, attempted to fill holes a few days with water, eventually required the use of sonet tubes)



Holes finally done with sonet tubes, pole footings completed:

 

[Cemoto]

Great size.

I was going to go 30x40 but ended up 32x36 with apron pads on both ends.

Welcome!

.

 

[stngfever]

Self explanatory build PICS:

 

[stngfever]

 

[stngfever]

 

[GroverDill]

very nice.

 

[stngfever]

At this stage the contractor had the base building completed and building inspection done. Inspection was important to get done prior to the slab so that electrical, gas, water, and low voltage can be trenched/installed prior to the poor. Dad has a Kabota with backhoe attachment that helped out tremendously to complete the 2 trenches (water trench was ~ 110' with minimum depth of 42"). Gas, Electrical, and low voltage trench was ~130'
Electrical trench from the side of the house:





Dad helping with the water trench:





Electrical on right side, yellow is gas, left side silver conduit is for low voltage:



Lines running into building:



Water line trench complete:

 

[CNGsaves]

Did you put all three conduits in same trench at bottom (gas, electric & low voltage)??

 

[stngfever]

Did you put all three conduits in same trench at bottom (gas, electric & low voltage)??

Yes all 3 in the same trench. Hard to tell in the pic's however, the trench is at least a foot wide and at least 18" depth. Gas and electrical remained separated by at least a foot the whole length. The low voltage conduit was laid on the same side as the gas line.

 

[Xander]

Nice setup, I did the lift a bit further forward from the parking spot and it is working out real nice.

x...

 

[stngfever]

Xander, nice catch on the lift placement. Plan is to place lift forward in the bay such that a vehicle can still be in the bay without being hindered by the lift, yet placed on the lift and provide enough room in front.

Latest round of Pics shows the trenches after fill-in, floor being leveled, compacted, 6" depth section, floor drains, location of frost free hydrant, electrical panel, etc...

Note that from the 6" section back is level the width of the garage (easiest way for contractor to keep the 6" pad level for lift post placement). With front portion sloping to drains.

 

[stngfever]

Next came the cement trucks!

 

[Ray Kelly]

That is one nice build there. I love the setting out in the trees. You'll love working out there. I can see that right now. Good luck.

 

[Diesel Dan]

Looking good!
I would much rather deal with western MI sand than the clay we have around here.

 

[stngfever]

Thanks for all the great comments.

It certainly is going to be GREAT to finally have a "shop" (err man cave)! Having done some work in an attached 22x27 with a couple of support posts in the middle and just about 7' to rafters, it's going to be NICE to have some breathing room. I've pulled an engine, transmission, tire changes, installed headers, and other various work in the cramped attached garage for too long now.

Next stage was a small front apron for the time being (~5' stretching across from outer door to outer door ~34'). Funds and timing didn't allow for the larger apron this year. Next year will be sloping the entrance to a gradual slope and install ~15' more feet for a proper approach/apron. As well as extending the entry door pad along side of building to front apron.





Then the cuts we're made.

 

[stngfever]

Erecting the building and cement work was hired out.

Other work was done by myself with help from Dad and son. I also opted to hang the overheads myself.

The next phase was back to me, floor sealer. While I like the looks of a good quality epoxy floor, I didn't want the expense, the wait time, nor the aggravation of running into issues putting it down. While doing some research, I found out about a Dayton Superior Product called J35 Tuf Seal.

Primarily I wanted something that would make cleanup easier, less staining, and keep down on the typical cement dust.

J35 was chosen due to all my requirements and the added benefit of being oil and gas resistant, as well as the ability to apply to "green" cement after 1 week.

This was applied using an airless garden sprayer (each sprayer was good for one coat). Second coat can be applied as soon as first coat is non sticky.

I have some cleanup work to do on the drains as the Green frog tape stained the white drains green in areas! Suggest using heavy plastic to cover drains up next time!

After applying, it was interesting to see the stages the seal went through while drying. First appeared darker wet look, then looked like spider web/cracking, then back to darker stains looking, finally to a uniform clear.

Overall, VERY satisfied with the results. Cost for the 1280Sq. Ft. with 2 coats was ~$400 (with ~1-1.5 gallons left over) sold in 5 gallon pales at cement supply house not the big box stores.

 

[stngfever]

Here is the start of the second coat:



Another advantage with this sealer, heavy traffic can commence 12 hours later.

I waited til the next day for any traffic:





Also did a water test the day after 2nd coat was pplied:



While it may look slippery, I can attest that it's not any more slippery then non sealed wet cement, in fact it's less.

 

[stngfever]

Next up was electrical.

Portion of this was hired out to an electrician friend.

Since the house had a 100amp service feeding a service panel that wouldn't be easy to upgrade, it was determined the best course of action was to upgrade to 200amp meter socket, that feeds a 200 amp outside main panel, turning the 100amp house panel into a sub as well as the 100amp pole barn panel.

 

[sunsation288]

Wow , very well done , subscribed!!! , keep the picture coming please
And welcome to GJ !

 

[stngfever]

Next up installing the 3 overhead 9x8 doors with 30" high rise kit.

Initial plan was to have windows in top panel to provide light. After installation, I wasn't sure I liked this configuration. Then came along my next issue/hurdle. After installing, encountered a clearance issue with the frames around the windows due to the high rise kit. The frames got caught up on the garage seal. As such, was forced to swap the 2 top panels. This turned out much better. The last pic was taken just prior to making the change on door number 3.











Ground breaking took place on 7/22/13, garage door installations completed on 10/23/13.

Next up, moving in the materials I gathered (err Stole) from various craigslist adds.

I was able to accumulate 2 post lift, stack of 2x4's, 12 sheets of 1/2" plywood, insulation, conduit, various electrical needs, lights, ducting, etc...





All of which we're being stored in a friends pole barn which serves as the hibernation cave for the car. With winter fast approaching, these supplies we're quickly relocated to their new home. Just in time to put the car into hibernation (hopefully spending it's last hibernation away from the home front).

Next up....Hunting season, spent November and December chasing wildlife and the holidays with family.

Getting back to the new garage starting this weekend. Stay tuned!

 

[stngfever]

Next up, Pics of inside full of materials. Craigslist has been good to me.

First up are some PICS of the Vintage Weaver AFH-88 lift.







Next is the pile of 2x4's to be used for framing between posts and wall framing for the room:



Lights, and insulation:

 

[stngfever]

Progress on Room

And now some interior build pics. Started framing the air compressor/storage room last weekend.

6' 6" wide by 13' 4" deep with 2x8's used for loft joist's.

 

[stngfever]

Loft Progress

Upon completion of the wall framing, it was time to move onto decking for the loft. Since I had a pile of various sized 3/4" plywood stashed, it was time to piece together a puzzle:





Then it was time to place the ductwork and furnace. Both are merely in place at the moment. HVAC friend will be out next week to take measurements for the plenum as well as the return air. Planning to duct the return from floor below furnace location via the wall cavity.

 

[sq_creations]

Very nice progress. I'm building a similar size pole building too. Its great to see other layout ideas. Your a little further along than I am at this point.

 

[robn69]

I am looking in to building the same size building soon. Keep up the good work! And keep posting progress pics!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk

 

[stngfever]

Thanks for the compliments!

Made some progress this weekend on the furnace ducting.

A friend came over to show me how to work with tin. Brought along with him the appropriate tools necessary to do the job. We cut the supply and return plenums down to size. That was accomplished yesterday with friends help.

Today it was time to cut into the supply plenum for the 2 trunks. Test fit a few times in the process. Also cut a 6" round for a supply to room below furnace. Attached return to furnace. That's it for this weekend. Doesn't seem like a lot, however, for a novice like myself, took awhile to accomplish. Very happy with the results so far. This next week I'll be attaching insulation to the inside of the supply plenum (as half will be above the conditioned space). Trunks already have insulation, however, planning to wrap them with the foil insulation for good measure.

 

[1/2 Cup]

Great build, looking forward to your progress

 

[theoldwizard1]

...

Since the house had a 100amp service feeding a service panel that wouldn't be easy to upgrade, it was determined the best course of action was to upgrade to 200amp meter socket, that feeds a 200 amp outside main panel, turning the 100amp house panel into a sub as well as the 100amp pole barn panel.

Good plan. Too bad you couldn't find a 200A, outdoor load center that wasn't so HUGE ! Or maybe use a meter socket that had double lugs.

 

[stngfever]

Good plan. Too bad you couldn't find a 200A, outdoor load center that wasn't so HUGE ! Or maybe use a meter socket that had double lugs.

My first choice was a smaller load center, however, couldn't find one at a better cost then the Square D. After researching this for months, this one was chosen due cost as well as interchangeable breakers with the Square D units in the house and the pole barn panel. Since it's on the side of the house that is hardly seen, size isn't an issue

 

[stngfever]

More progress over the past week or so.

Ductwork finished up.

First of 3 vents for workbench area. 2 others will be 6" round vents when ceiling gets finished.



One of the 3 bay vents fed with 8" insulated round duct. (Lighting is temporary)



Gas line to furnace complete.



Vent Flue in place (still need to caulk around vent opening)





Temporary conduit rack to get some stuff off the floor



South wall framing complete

 

[stngfever]

More framing done over the weekend. North wall is now complete.







Also completed a set of stairs for the loft.

 

[stngfever]

While I've been collecting some "Garage Art" for some time now (banners, posters, metal signs, etc....).

I recently found the centerpiece for the new stable.

Was in the sellers BIL family for 30+years. Located 5 hours away, however, a friend of mine lives close to the seller and has picked it up for me until I can make the trek to retrieve.

Dual sided. It's made of glass and porcelain. ~56" wide x 18" tall x 7" deep



First project awaiting the completion of this build:

This past summer I picked up a flood salvage to turn into dedicated track car.

 

[bld movs]

Cool sign stngfever. I have a 2007 Shelby GT as well. CSN07SGT0651

 

[stngfever]

bld movs,

we may have to start a stang stable topic section as their appears to be a good number of Mustangs here, LOL

07SGT2875 (Black) Bought new from dealer lot in 8/08.
07SGT5529 (White) followed up this past summer. Flood salvage from Hurricane Sandy. Plan is to put in roll cage, racing seats, remove all unnecessary items, etc... for a "Dedicated" track car.

 

[Goosman]

I'm in west Michigan south of gr, Also who did your work. I'm in the planning process and am trying to decide if pole or stick is the way to go I like the footings you used. I just have seen a lot of poles in are crummy climate look like **** fast so I'm scared to go pole. Im looking to go 40x32x12. With 40 foot span trusses just don't know if it will look goofy but are hoa say gable has to face road and match house . also why im leaning towards stick. But 40x32 footings 4feet down and the slab is like 36 yrds of concrete. Looks like an awesome barn so far. cant wait to watch progress. If ya don't mind me asking how bad was the price on the floor.

 

[Glider_6969]

I know these questions are a bit late in your post, but how long were the main posts and how deep did you have to go as I see they were different height out of the ground? I seen your footings but hard to tell, are they just footing pads at the bottom of the tubes? Reason I am asking I think we are around the same frost line zones.
That's a cool, looking build you have going, hoping to do the same size and your pics are great too.

 

[rixtrix1]

Re: Progress on Room

Oops! pushed wrong button on my new phone. However, build is looking good. Noticed you didn't put insulation under your slab. I would think that was almost a prerequisite for your neck of the woods. How about some info on the flood car? Was it relatively inexpensive, or being a Shelby in straight body condition,the same price as getting a V6 car and starting from scratch. Are you close to Gingerman?

Sent from my SCH-I435 using Tapatalk

 

[stngfever]

Delay in responding as I was on vacation for the past couple weeks (2500 smiles on the Shelby for mountain cruising and Mustang 50th Celebration in Charlotte, NC)

Goosman,
Butterworth Builders out of Greenville did my build (Excellent work), I chose pole over stick for many reasons - Cost, ease of build, able to get final inspection done prior to slab, less bureaucracy, etc... My slab is 4" except the lift area of 6' x 15' having 6", entry door pad, ~4'x34' apron, 4 drains, pored, finished, and cut for ~$4k
Let me know if your going to be in the neighborhood and I'll gladly give you a tour!

Glider,
I'll have to look at my bill of materials when I get home to see what size posts we're used. The posts are typically ordered much longer then necessary such that the builder doesn't have to mess around with trying to get them at exact heights (the tops are cut down once the start framing etc...) Depth of posts are to frost line which around here is 42". The footings are pored concrete within the sonet tubes. Sonet tubes are taller the needed for footings, however required due to the holes collapsing on builder when they tried to auger them (Very dry sandy soil).

rixtrix1,
I debated insulation under the slab, however, after talking with many folks here in Michigan, determined it to be unnecessary for the way I'll be heating my building and my needs (hoping I don't regret this decision in the long run). The flood salvage car was a bit cheaper then finding an 05 - 07 high mileage GT. I live within 10 minutes of Grattan and about 2 hours from Gingerman (been to both many times).

 

[D-man313]

Looks great. We just finished up a 32x40x12 barn. Its good size but they fill up fast!!

 

[stngfever]

Long over due update!
A lot has been accomplished since the February updates.
Closing in areas above doors.





Outlet placements have been complete. Electrical overview:
Compressor/storage room: 4-110, 1-220 outlets
North Wall: 5-110 (@ 4 foot), 5-110 (@ 8 foot), 1-220 outlets
South Wall: 4-110 (@ 4 foot), 5-110 (@ 8 foot), 1-220 outlets
West Wall: 12-110 (@ 4 foot), 4-110 (@ 8 foot), 1-220 outlets
East Wall: 2-110 (@ 4 foot), 4-110 (@ 11 foot) outlets
Ceiling: 4-110, 1-220 outlets
Lighting:Each bay to have (5) 3-tube T-8 fixtures, Bench area (3) 3-tube T-8 fixtures, room (2) 3-tube T-8 fixtures.