Dricore and Doors

[ksmith17]

Maybe someone here has had the issue before. I’m constructing a 22 x 28 woodworking shop and I am considering using Dricore over my concrete slab as my finished floor. My question is how do I handle my exterior doors. I plan to install a 6’ double in swing door and a 3.0 exterior in swing door. I live in upstate NY so snow is an issue.

Do I install the Dricore first and install the doors on top of the Dricore?

What would be the best way to protect the exposed Dricore edge from the elements?

Do I install the door on the concrete and then create a well around the door to handle the in swing?

Thanks in advance for any help and suggestions.

Kevin

 

[b-boy]

I'm not sure I'd use Dricore. Dricore is designed to have something on top of it. I'd be worried about moisture, oil, and grease causing issues with the OSB. I wouldn't want to build on top of it either, since it's designed to be a floating subfloor.

 

[johnnyradiant]

Dricore would go in 'last'. Door heights would be adjusted accordingly and you would need to modify the threshold or create one to 'seal' the door and protect the dri-core edge. That would be how I would handle it at this point in time, when I went to do it I could very well modify my plan of attack. I also would not stop at Dricore. As b-boy states it is a sub floor product. I do like it's performance for what it is designed for and finished floor is not it. Even something that won't directly effect it but is a strong reason not to go there - get a little sawdust on it and you have an artificial ice rink, no freezing required. Of course I've had a decent hate on for OSB since the early 70's and won't use it if I don't have to. For a concrete slab woodworking shop Dricore and something on top of it will be a huge improvement over just concrete.

 

[The Cobbler]

I agree about dricore not being the ideal material, however, if it were me, and the pad wasn't poured yet, I would form in sills that are slightly hiher than the thickenss of the dricor & set the doors on then.
or, if it is poured, shim up and install the doors. install dri core after the doors are installed.

 

[Angelfire]

My building was already up with doors etc... I considered Dricore (and similar products) with the idea of adding wood flooring on top. I opted to make my own style of dricore using Delta-MS under OSB. I can just squeeze the flooring on without having to address the exterior door (might have to trim slightly....haven't started the wood flooring yet). So on the exterior door, I should have said I just ran the Delta/OSB combination right up to the threshold. If I need clearance, I can adjust the height of the threshold where it contacts the door if necessary. On my interior 6070 double doors, I ran it into the doorway and will set the doors right on top of it. These doors lead to my "automotive" side of the workshop so are not exterior doors.
Cheers.

 

[bullnerd]

I am going with the dimpled membrane and t&g plywood on my concrete floor in my wood shop.

Paint, stain or clear the plywood.

I dont like OSB either.

I only have one o-door. I planned on making a wedge/ramp thing out of wood. But I might look into one of those rubber threshold seals cut in half (or similar) and glued to the floor and edge of plywood to seal the gap.

Cant help with the man door.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I am going with the dimpled membrane and t&g plywood on my concrete floor in my wood shop.

I like this idea, but how "vapor proof" is the dimpled membrane ? Will it really prevent any moisture from coming up from the concrete (like in the seams) and causing the plywood to rot ?

Depending on the number of sheet of plywood that you are dealing with and how much time you have, you can do your own waterproofing. Mix 3 part mineral spirits, 2 parts boiled linseed oil and 1 part oil based marine spar varnish. Apply liberally, especially to the edges. This will dry very quickly and you should apply about 3 coats.

Next mix is 2-2-2 and apply 2 coats. Last 1-2-3 and apply 2 coats. These last two will take longer to dry, possibly over night.

 

[mrramsey]

Way late to the party on this post but I would have to ask why, if you are building a new building as a dedicated wood working shop, would you even do a concrete floor.

I have yet to build my dream wood shop but when I do it will be a conventional crawl space foundation with a wood framed floor. 12”o.c. Joists and 2 layers of plywood for the floor. I want access for wiring, plumbing etc.

If the building exists already do 2x sleepers on top of a vid queen vapor barrier with rigid foam insulation between the sleepers. Then add your plywood floor. You can stop the flooring short of the doors with a ramp edge if needed.

But again if it’s a brand new structure as a dedicated wood shop I would not do concrete.


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[bullnerd]

"If the building exists already do 2x sleepers on top of a vid queen vapor barrier with rigid foam insulation between the sleepers. Then add your plywood floor. You can stop the flooring short of the doors with a ramp edge if needed."

I agree, and this is a very popular way to do it. The plastic dimple stuff is a vapor barrier, and I don't need to run anything under the floor. Plus, I will have less of a step to deal with at doors/transition. Don't have to buy 2 bys.....etc.

In my case, I wanted the flexibility of having concrete though out the whole shop. Mine is a pole building, only part of it is wood shop,the rest is machine/auto/fab ****. If I was building a dedicated wood shop, absolutely it would have wood floors.

 

[mrramsey]

"If the building exists already do 2x sleepers on top of a vid queen vapor barrier with rigid foam insulation between the sleepers. Then add your plywood floor. You can stop the flooring short of the doors with a ramp edge if needed."

I agree, and this is a very popular way to do it. The plastic dimple stuff is a vapor barrier, and I don't need to run anything under the floor. Plus, I will have less of a step to deal with at doors/transition. Don't have to buy 2 bys.....etc.

In my case, I wanted the flexibility of having concrete though out the whole shop. Mine is a pole building, only part of it is wood shop,the rest is machine/auto/fab ****. If I was building a dedicated wood shop, absolutely it would have wood floors.

Yep totally makes sense in a multi use building. I do woodworking in my garage. I installed pvc tiles. Gives me pretty decent comfort under foot. I store my boat and wife’s car in there so no wood floor for me here. Someday though! Lol


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