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drill bit advise

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Stuey

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I don't even have to look at the links. Go with the Norseman. GJ members seem to be fond of Norseman bits. That, and I'm stilled upset that Irwin shifted Vicegrip production entirely overseas. They won't be receiving any of my cash or recommendations anytime soon for just that reason.
 

ozzy214

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I usually just buy a bag of drill bits from any flea market, yard sale, etc. Then I use my trusty drill doctor to sharpen and turn it into a split point. The only thing I regret is not buying the model for 135 degree point. Thats mostly used for metal cutting.

But for me works fine and cheaper. Only time I dig out the drill/drill bits is for pesky studs broken off in exhaust manifolds or maybe to rig a tie down for a fan. Stuff like that. And trust me there is no difference between wood/metal bits when sharpened. At least I dont notice any. Google for drill doctor. Great product. Just remebr if your cutting metal to step the bits going from smaler to larger, makes the job easier.

Just my 2 cents to save you a few bucks.
 

theWORLDSaNAIL

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Stay away from Irwin they making junk now I just used some new production bits about a month ago and it broke mid way through soft steel. There using to may global source scrap metal materials these days.
 
OP
J

JayL

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I was with the idea that the Hanson Irwin drill bits might still be made stateside. If these are imports then its a no contest. At almost the same price I would take the Norseman magnums anytime of the day.

How about Norseman cobalts?


"Unless you need to drill deep holes consider a SM set." - alex71

Actually drilling stainless steel bolts is one of the application I need the bits for.
 
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alex71

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SM=Screw Machine length. The drills are shorter and flex way less than jobber length. Not good for access though.
 

autoace

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If you are drilling metal, only cobalt bits will do IMHO. I like Vermont American. I have never used either brand you posted so I cannot recommend either. I would choose the Irwin cobalt bits, but expect aisan imports for 82 bucks, but that don't mean they are junk. I had some HF cobalt bits that were good, the VA are much better, but I bet the Irwin bits will be fine. 82 bucks is a good price, good luck.:thumbup:
 
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alex71

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Nothing wrong with quality, sharp HSS bits for metal. The important thing is proper feed and speed, and a little bit of lubricant... Even for SS like the OP is looking to drill.
 

-B-

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Speeds and feeds are difficult to do with hand drills if this is going to be how the bits are to be used buy the best you can and remember the bigger the bit the slower you need to be.

In a Dp you can get away with quite a lot for a bit as you have far more control over the seep and feed.
 

fordracing200

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Stay away from Irwin they making junk now I just used some new production bits about a month ago and it broke mid way through soft steel. There using to may global source scrap metal materials these days.

x2 irwin bits are garbage, dont waste your money on them like I did :mad:
 

Defender Chassis

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The important thing is proper feed and speed, and a little bit of lubricant.

I would agree except to change lubricant to coolant. I was brought up and taught to use oil when drilling but have since found a product that I add to tap water that performs better. The literature stated that the important part was to keep the bit cool. I am sure those out there with more of a machining background (OCG) can elaborate.

PS I have even heard of using rubbing alcohol while drilling/machining aluminum.
 

alex71

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You are correct, of course... I use a mixture of water and tapping oil (about 90/10). Just have to shake the spray bottle vigorously, otherwise you only get water.
 

A_Pmech

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Lubricant and coolant have two different purposes. Neither are particularly necessary for everyday drilling of mild steel as it can be machined "dry" with good results.

A couple lubricants can help with chip welding issues and provide superior surface finishes. For aluminum, the absolute best thing out there is WD-40 or bacon drippings. "Kool-Mist" misters and dish soap come at second place. Either one is cheap and prevents chips from welding to the drill lands, causing tearing. The Kool-Mist helps keep thermal expansion in check.

For steel, I like high-sulphur thread cutting oil, the same stuff used for threading pipe. A little bit in a squirt can goes a long way. I usually put a little down before a finish pass. I also use the same stuff for tapping, drilling, reaming, etc. Get the lightweight stuff.

Coolant is used mainly to keep the part and tool at a common temperature during high-speed machining. While it also provides anti-weld and other lubricating properties which are important to a good surface finish, keeping the part at a constant temperature is vitally important in CNC and heavy manual machining due to thermal expansion. Coolant also keeps the tooling cool, which prevents dimensional changes there, or the loss of temper in the case of HSS tooling. Again, for everyday drilling of mild steel and aluminum in a small drill press or by hand, coolant is not necessary.

In my manual machines, I avoid coolant if possible as my work is not production-oriented. Using coolant requires far more machine maintenance and tends to get rank after a couple of weeks. I usually machine dry until the final pass. Then, I'll use one of the methods outlined above. With carbide tooling and high speeds and feeds, the heat should be carried away in the chip, keeping the workpiece cool.

:beer:
 

chad s

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If you are drilling metal, only cobalt bits will do IMHO.

Cobalt is more brittle, and will cheap easier. For hand drilling, HSS is much better. With a more rigid setup cobalt has a better life span, but is still unnecessary. I still metal (mild steel, aluminum, SS, brass, cast iron) all week long, and use 2 sets of HSS Norseman drills.
 
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