Drill bit angles, Drill Doctor, and bed frame question?

[taumac]

I have I Drill Doctor XPK and you can change the angle on cutting head of drill bit.

I was drilling some bed frame today and used a newly sharpen bit. I used light pressure on my drill press and slow rpm ( 500 ) but still had issues burning bits or them not cutting after going only half way through. I wondering if maybe changing the angle could help? I know bed frame is hard to work with but it's free when I find it.

 

[royesses]

Bed frames are hard metal. Try a 140 degree tip, high feed pressure and slow rpm with cutting oil.

 

[larry_g]

Size of the bit?
Material of the bit?
oil type being used?

I suspect that you have a soft bit and are not using cutting oil. Also not a place for a light pressure. If the bit stops cutting then the material being cut work hardens and your done.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[404]

Bed frame angle iron is really high carbon and is hard. The Satan's **** of cheap steel. Low RPM and a merciless feed rate with sulphur cutting oil.

 

[goodysgotacuda]

Bed frame angle iron is really high carbon and is hard. The Satan's **** of cheap steel. Low RPM and a merciless feed rate with sulphur cutting oil.

No kidding, I've tried using it for screw-around projects and it worked me over. That material sure is tough for what it is.

 

[zkling]

They are close to a spring steel to add flexure without yielding for well, uhm...

Carbide or cobalt if you have a ridgid enough setup. Otherwise, spot drill to keep it where you need to, cuttinging fluid and steady pressure.

You could always take the ghetto concrete drill bit route.

 

[taumac]

Size of the bit?
Material of the bit?
oil type being used?

I suspect that you have a soft bit and are not using cutting oil. Also not a place for a light pressure. If the bit stops cutting then the material being cut work hardens and your done.

lg
no neat sig line

Well I usually use a smaller but which seems to go through good like a 1/8 then step up to size needed. Today did 1/8 then 5/16 or 11/32 bit. I use this for cutting

Some of the bits.

The 2 sets I use.

 

[taumac]

Bed frame angle iron is really high carbon and is hard. The Satan's **** of cheap steel. Low RPM and a merciless feed rate with sulphur cutting oil.

I know but works good for my little projects as long a I don't need to drill a hole. LOL. I got good at sharping bits with this Drill Doctor. Last one was a pain the my ***.

 

[zkling]

Ah, geeze. There are cutting oils and there are lubricating oils. Get some dark pipe oil at Lowes or the like.

 

[taumac]

Ah, geeze. There are cutting oils and there are lubricating oils. Get some dark pipe oil at Lowes or the like.

Ok, is there a brand and would it be in plumping or tool section.

 

[zkling]

Ridgid dark. Or the cheap route if you have some bacon grease around.

Also, you either need a new chuck or to tighten it further. Carefully knock off the burrs on the end of those drill bits to prevent them from engaging only the high spots further exacerbating the situation.

 

[organ]

Bed frame is some of the toughest stuff I've ever messed with...

 

[taumac]

They are close to a spring steel to add flexure without yielding for well, uhm...

Carbide or cobalt if you have a ridgid enough setup. Otherwise, spot drill to keep it where you need to, cuttinging fluid and steady pressure.

You could always take the ghetto concrete drill bit route.

I've heard of that somewhere but never tried it. Is the concrete bit harder than the steel bits I have? I don't know exactly type material bits I have. I bought the Craftsmans years ago and Hanson ones I got in a toolbox that was given to me. I havnt looked at buying any cause I have a drawer full of miscellaneous bits I found over the years. I just sharpen those and have other 2 complete sets.

 

[taumac]

Ridgid dark. Or the cheap route if you have some bacon grease around.

Also, you either need a new chuck or to tighten it further. Carefully knock off the burrs on the end of those drill bits to prevent them from engaging only the high spots further exacerbating the situation.

Thanks. Probably running to Lowes tomorrow and I'll look. Yep, drill press I have is **** and I kept bending the chuck handle.

I got frustrated so I made this up today.

 

[zkling]

One tip to get the most out of your plain bearing chuck....

Insert bit, twist the bit slightly while tightening the chuck to get it best seated.
Then use the key in all 3 chuck holes,sounds goofy, but it prevents the sleeve from camming and will give you the best grip possible.

The mason bits work because they have carbide brazed to the end of them. You need to sharpen the points a bit, but they do work well for holes in thinner stock. They aren't great for deeper holes as they lack proper flutes for chip clearance.

 

[Bobby Cole]

Plasma cutter for holes in bedframes. Useless to try to drill that ****.

 

[zkling]

Plasma cutter for holes in bedframes. Useless to try to drill that ****.

At that point, even better, use an ironworker. Kinda doubt he has one though.

 

[gearhead1]

I had one bed frame that I couldn't drill, I used the little bit I cut out for my project then scrapped the rest. I found out I couldn't drill after I welded it up. I used the torch to poke a couple holes in it.

The rest of the bed frames I've found have been easy to drill.

My uncle told me when I was a kid that bed frames were hard to deal with. I never understood until I ran into the one I couldn't drill.

 

[BillK]

I used light pressure

That's problem #1 .... you have to use enough pressure for the bit to be cutting, not dragging.

slow rpm ( 500 )

Problem #2 .... I think the highest speed on my gear driven drill press at the shop is around 600 rpm, I would probably be using 150 rpm or so on something like you are drilling.

This is what I use for lube, I get it at Fastenal but it is probably available other places. Like others have said there is a big difference between lubricating oil and cutting oil.

http://www.eastwood.com/crc-cutting...e=&network=g&gclid=CM-81rPa18kCFYEYHwodiPQFrQ

That being said ..... I have a drill Doctor at the shop but have found that it never makes a drill as good as the original grind. Seems like they cut ok for a little while but get dull real quick.

 

[BFBOB]

Ditto using a masonry bit if your regular ones don't cut it. Start with a standard (NOT "percussion" type) and with a SiC (Silicon Carbide) wheel in your grinder, put a good sharp edge on it, with little relief. And, whether carbide or a regular twist drill, use cutting fluid (Mitee dark is my poison) slow speed and heavy pressure.

 

[taumac]

One tip to get the most out of your plain bearing chuck....

Insert bit, twist the bit slightly while tightening the chuck to get it best seated.
Then use the key in all 3 chuck holes,sounds goofy, but it prevents the sleeve from camming and will give you the best grip possible.

The mason bits work because they have carbide brazed to the end of them. You need to sharpen the points a bit, but they do work well for holes in thinner stock. They aren't great for deeper holes as they lack proper flutes for chip clearance.

Good tip. Never knew that. I'll give the masonry bits a try. I also got bunch of those so wouldn't mind burning those up.

 

[taumac]

At that point, even better, use an ironworker. Kinda doubt he has one though.

****, if had one of those I wouldn't be having this discussion. Ironworker looks awesome. I borrowed a friends plasma and cut holes before. It worked ok

I had one bed frame that I couldn't drill, I used the little bit I cut out for my project then scrapped the rest. I found out I couldn't drill after I welded it up. I used the torch to poke a couple holes in it.

The rest of the bed frames I've found have been easy to drill.

My uncle told me when I was a kid that bed frames were hard to deal with. I never understood until I ran into the one I couldn't drill.

Sometimes I've had a piece where it drill through fine and moved 1in over on same piece and couldn't drill ****.

That's problem #1 .... you have to use enough pressure for the bit to be cutting, not dragging.







Problem #2 .... I think the highest speed on my gear driven drill press at the shop is around 600 rpm, I would probably be using 150 rpm or so on something like you are drilling.



This is what I use for lube, I get it at Fastenal but it is probably available other places. Like others have said there is a big difference between lubricating oil and cutting oil.



http://www.eastwood.com/crc-cutting...e=&network=g&gclid=CM-81rPa18kCFYEYHwodiPQFrQ



That being said ..... I have a drill Doctor at the shop but have found that it never makes a drill as good as the original grind. Seems like they cut ok for a little while but get dull real quick.

Well, I should rephrase... I used enough pressure from bit to work without forcing it. If push harder but starts getting hot and smoke. This new DD works much better than my other one I had.