drill bit ID gripe

[gregtwojeeps]

Has anyone like I do, ever wondered why the tooling industry would stamp the size of the metal drill bits on the bit shank, RIGHT where the drill chuck eats it away whenever the bit hangs up and slips ?

 

[themiller]

Yes.

I don't have a better solution though...

 

[Worsedog]

Because it's pretty much the only place to put it. Too close to the flutes would make the bit weaker if it were to flex a bit. Plus they expect you to use a good chuck. I have a low end Mac air drill that I cussed all the time because the bit slipped. I like the drill a lot as it is quite compact. I bought a good chuck for it, I nearly choked that the chuck was only a few dollars less than I paid for the drill. But it hasn't slipped since.

 

[G McKay]

Mine do that too. Then I have to try and dress them with a file. Then that can screw them up from being straight and true.

 

[twertsy]

Absolutely! Luckily, I have a Fastenal in an adjacent shop. They just started selling these with the size (albeit very small) engraved on each hole. The fit is perfect so even if you have bits where you don't know the size, put it in the smallest hole it will fit in and it's always correct.

 

[Trucky]

There's a solution to this: grab a bunch that seem close and use calipers to find what's right (fractional and letter) or micrometers (number)

 

[Shadowdog500]

Use a better chuck so this does not happen.

Put the bit back into the proper place in the index so you know what size it is.

Extremely small number sized bits are rarely marked. This is where using a drill index is the best way.

Chris

 

[gregtwojeeps]

Because it's pretty much the only place to put it. Too close to the flutes would make the bit weaker if it were to flex a bit. Plus they expect you to use a good chuck. I have a low end Mac air drill that I cussed all the time because the bit slipped. I like the drill a lot as it is quite compact. I bought a good chuck for it, I nearly choked that the chuck was only a few dollars less than I paid for the drill. But it hasn't slipped since.

I am not a machinist or T&D person so spending a few hundred bucks for a drill chuck is not in my future. I can replace a lot of fractional bits for a few hundred bucks. I say stamp them close to the flutes and get the ID stamp out of the chuck jaws. How could a ID stamp weaken the bit shank any worse than the flute cuts do ?

Yes, the 1/4 in. and below in size bits I just mike them because I can mike them in less time than it takes me to find a magnifying glass to read the size ID on them. .

 

[Tinner]

Checking drill sizes with a micrometer is a great way to become proficient at using a micrometer. Someday you will find a big box of unmarked/unsorted drills for a buck or three. See where I'm going with this?

 

[the gypsy]

If my memory serves me correctly, I remember seeing some expensive drill bits that had their drill bits identified in a better manner. It was almost like a banner around the shank with the size indicated. I think they were Dormer brand. I may be mistaken because this was 25 yrs ago. Needless to say I found them to be too expensive for my pocket book.

P.S. the banner was ever so slightly depressed.

 

[big.jim]

yes dormer stil do mark drills like this and arent that expensive if you go to the right place, i find best way of id my bits is keeping them in a marked stand

 

[A_Pmech]

I usually measure the drill with digital calipers. Most drills under #50 are unmarked.

However, Starrett makes a tool for sorting drills:

http://www.starrett.com/metrology/p...Fixed-Gage-Standards/Drill-and-Wire-Gages/187

 

[spongerich]

I have some drill size guides, but for smaller drills, I bought an inexpensive digital caliper that I keep next to my drill press, along with a chart of sizes.

 

[rslaback]

The size goes there because it is the easiest place to put it. They use a rolling stamp. Ideally though it would be nice to see them stamp it into the end of the shank.

 

[endmill]

I've been looking for a nice set with the 3 flats so that doesn't happen. Never seems like you can get a hand drill chuck tight enough.

 

[PT Doc]

I've been looking for a nice set with the 3 flats so that doesn't happen. Never seems like you can get a hand drill chuck tight enough.

Norseman drill bits have 3 flats.

Check this out

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=239330

 

[Givl Reggin]

Yes. I don't have a better solution though...

I don't see why they couldn't put the size in the flute.

 

[1950mercury]

Put it on the botton of the bit

 

[rockinacummins]

Yeah. I have this problem as well.

 

[James_B]

One of my pet hates.

I ended up with a box full of mixed drill bits after a clean out at work.

The ones that were marked, were a mix of 1/64 increment fractional inch, 0.5 increment metric, 0.1 increment metric, number/letter, and some oddball metrics that didn't fit any standard metric increment sequence, and were probably left overs from the "soft metric" days during the enforced metric change-over in Australia. The drill bits in the box that were unmarked are anybody's guess.

 

[woody 73]

Over the many years this is what I found.

1) when buying used drill bits 95% will be fractional and the remaining 5% will be other; Metric, letter, Wire etc.

2)Over 75% will have the missing #'s from the bit turning in the chuck.

3) I soon realized long before the GJ that around 1995 I started seeing more and more made in China so I bought out a lot of General stock and I picked up every drill guage that I could find in all their different sizes. (see the following ex:

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/t...Dimensional-Measuring&infoParam.campaignId=WR

4) When I start with a box all I do is use the gage; now when the drill bit will not work I use the other gages until I find the right one. (using a caliper is much faster), but I still use the different gages.

5) My only rant is that sometimes the chuck will make a spur on the bit and then it takes time with a file/grinder to remove the burr.

Hope that helps you out.