bagsanthony
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2010
- Messages
- 364
I'm in need of some good drill bits for auto mechanic use (drilling out bolts etc.) What do u guys recommend High Speed, Colbalt, or something else.... and what brand?
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Drill bits for auto mechanic?
- Thread starter bagsanthony
- Start date
wafrederick
Well-known member
The colbalts tend to dull up easily.Ken Cut is another good drill bit set you pay big money for.
Last edited:
Milton Shaw
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- Feb 11, 2011
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I saw these at some trade shows and bought a set of BadDog drill bits. They are specialty bits as they will drill about anything. The harder the material the better. They will drill files, hacksaw blades, materials that other drills don't even scratch. Lifetime warranty and hex shaft to fit chucks tighter. The only difference is that these bits run the drill as fast as it will go, usually you slow down as you get to bigger drills these, run 1/2 inch at 2000 plus rpm. I have used my set to drill some hardened stock that previously had to burn holes through with torch. Not for everyday use as they are slower in wood/ steel than good HS steel bits, but for drilling out hardened taps, drills, bolts they cannot be beat. Use a high speed drill and you are set.
looked up those bits, looks like you have to buy them at a show or direct. Also seems they dont carry left hand turn bits. The point of the left hand turn is to hope the broken bolt backs out while drilling it saving you the trouble of risking breaking a screw extractor off in the new hole. Also read some people saying they walk a lot in a hand held drill which is bad news for automotive.
I went through this over the last 2 years. Started with **** drill bits, kept finding out they were ****, bought the next step better, found out those were **** for auto mechanic use, stepped up... etc. etc.
The absolute minimum I can get to last more than one use drilling out a hardened bolt are real cobalt-steel bits from a mid-level manufacturer like Irwin. I bought a boxed set of theirs that has 1/16 though 1/2 in 1/64th steps (typical 29pc set). I still have most of it 9 months later. Lately, as I've been needing bigger bits or to replace the Irwin bits, I've been buying cobalt steel bits from Chicago Latrobe. The CL bits are HUGELY better than any other consumer/prosumer/pro-non-machinist bits I've ever seen. I haven't hurt one yet.
I would strongly recommend pulling on your big girl ******* and just buying a 29 piece cobalt steel set from Chicago Latrobe to begin with. Buy once, cry once. I've spent more on junk bits at this point than I would have buying the CL set to begin with. The set I'd go with is their Series 550, 8% cobalt steel (M42), 135* split point. The part number for that is Chicago Latrobe 57850.
The absolute minimum I can get to last more than one use drilling out a hardened bolt are real cobalt-steel bits from a mid-level manufacturer like Irwin. I bought a boxed set of theirs that has 1/16 though 1/2 in 1/64th steps (typical 29pc set). I still have most of it 9 months later. Lately, as I've been needing bigger bits or to replace the Irwin bits, I've been buying cobalt steel bits from Chicago Latrobe. The CL bits are HUGELY better than any other consumer/prosumer/pro-non-machinist bits I've ever seen. I haven't hurt one yet.
I would strongly recommend pulling on your big girl ******* and just buying a 29 piece cobalt steel set from Chicago Latrobe to begin with. Buy once, cry once. I've spent more on junk bits at this point than I would have buying the CL set to begin with. The set I'd go with is their Series 550, 8% cobalt steel (M42), 135* split point. The part number for that is Chicago Latrobe 57850.
Drew_flux
Well-known member
always buy mechanic/jobers lenth drills. they are shorter and stiffer than normal. i find i can not do with our left hand drills. when a lefty drill will not go through hard stuff i reach for the cobolts.
kmkalf
Well-known member
me and several guys at our shop buy those drill bits from harbor freight they come in a slim black case and they drilled through several truck frames with no issues and i usually buy an extra 10pc pack of 1/4" bits because i use them for a starting hole. usually you can catch them on sale for about $20
Scout Driver
Well-known member
Norseman bits are worth the extra money. Tough, sharp and very long lasting.
Scott
Scott
always buy mechanic/jobers lenth drills. they are shorter and stiffer than normal. i find i can not do with our left hand drills. when a lefty drill will not go through hard stuff i reach for the cobolts.
I think you meant to say Screw Machine Drill Bits. Jobbers are usually pretty long and is what is packed in most drill indexes.
If it was me I would look into Youtube and a Grinding wheel. Would probably save thousands in the long run.
I bought Irwin cobalts because they looked like a good deal. They've done the job and I've only had a couple break which I replaced individually with snap ons. So at least for light to moderate professional use they get the job done.
TozziWelding
Well-known member
The Magnum bits Fastenal has are good, and they have the flats on the shank so they dont slip.
One key I found is sharp bits. Even cheap ones, if sharp, work well. Also every time a bit is used it's dulled.
Get a Drill Doctor and learn how to sharpen drill bits. I got the extra chucks so I can do larger bits and LH bits. Split the points for hard materials to help keep the bit from walking.
I don't want to stop, clean up and go to the store to get more bits in the middle of a project. Right now I am fighting 5 broken head bolts in a 1949 IHC Flathead 6. Those bolts are HARD after 67 years of heating/cooling. Dulls a cobalt bit in about 10 revolutions.
So the cost of the bits is only part of the problem. Losing time is a bigger problem. If I can turn it around in a few minutes and drill some more then it's worthwhile to me to learn to sharpen bits.
I have sharpened one Cobalt bit at least 6 times so far. Just can't make any progress with dull tools!
3 out of the 5 head bolts are out at this time.
I hate broken bolts!
.
.
.
Get a Drill Doctor and learn how to sharpen drill bits. I got the extra chucks so I can do larger bits and LH bits. Split the points for hard materials to help keep the bit from walking.
I don't want to stop, clean up and go to the store to get more bits in the middle of a project. Right now I am fighting 5 broken head bolts in a 1949 IHC Flathead 6. Those bolts are HARD after 67 years of heating/cooling. Dulls a cobalt bit in about 10 revolutions.
So the cost of the bits is only part of the problem. Losing time is a bigger problem. If I can turn it around in a few minutes and drill some more then it's worthwhile to me to learn to sharpen bits.
I have sharpened one Cobalt bit at least 6 times so far. Just can't make any progress with dull tools!
3 out of the 5 head bolts are out at this time.
I hate broken bolts!
.
.
.
Westozfixer
Banned
Back from the very dead.
gdocktor3
Well-known member
Does the Drill Doctor sharpen left hand bits?
Buckgnarly
Well-known member
Does the Drill Doctor sharpen left hand bits?
Yes, they have a special chuck for it.
fatfillup
Well-known member
Does the Drill Doctor sharpen left hand bits?
They make a left handed adapter.
I have had good luck with Triumph Thunder bits. I assume they make them for Snap on, just cheaper
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/29...-thunderbit-premium-grade-hss-triumph-099856/
I bought a set of relabeled irwin bits through my matco guy. He had an almost new set on sale as he had to repo them from another mechanic. All bits 1/4" and above are lifetime warranty through him! More than worth the couple extra $ spent vs buying direct from irwin.