Drill bits getting stuck

[hellagrant]

I have the following drill bit set

whenever I use the small sized drill bits, the ones on the right, they keep getting stuck in the wood. I either have to re tighten the drill onto the bit to be able to reverse or use pliers to pull it out. Is it because of crappy drill bits, or maybe my drill itself(Ryobi drill)?

 

[cvairwerks]

They're made really for metal and not for wood. I only see the 4 bits in the kit that are specific for drilling wood.

 

[mlum6969]

the bottom left ones are for wood

 

[Furd50]

As you are drilling pull back on the drill every 1/2 inch or so to clear the shavings. Don't need to stop the drill or reverse it, just pull it back and then continue drilling.

 

[M_George]

Here's a guide that Lowes has posted. Help it helps.
https://www.lowes.com/projects/woodworking-and-crafts/drill-bits-buying-guide/article

 

[rlitman]

They're made really for metal and not for wood. I only see the 4 bits in the kit that are specific for drilling wood.

I see four types of bits in that set (you can't make out the fourth type in the OP's picture, but you can see them clearly here: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-31-Piece-Drill-and-Drive-Kit-A983102/205157373 )

The paddle (AKA spade) bits in the lower left are made specifically for wood.
The gold colored twist drill bits in the lower right will work fine in wood.

The silver bits in the upper right with blue in the spirals are carbide tipped masonry bits. They will absolutely get stuck in wood, because the carbide pilot will force its way into the wood, rather than cut a hole large enough for the bit to fit into.

To the right of that, the silver bits with the black in the spirals are called brad point bits. These are also made specifically for cutting wood. They are less likely to tear out the edges of a hole in soft wood than the gold colored bits.

 

[pendragon1998]

I have the following drill bit set

whenever I use the small sized drill bits, the ones on the right, they keep getting stuck in the wood. I either have to re tighten the drill onto the bit to be able to reverse or use pliers to pull it out. Is it because of crappy drill bits, or maybe my drill itself(Ryobi drill)?

Are the bits really stuck, or is the chuck spinning on the small diameter bits? Sounds like the chuck is not holding the smaller bits very well. If it was holding the bits firmly, and they were really stuck, I'd expect the torque to damage the smaller bits or just stop moving through the wood before the drill actually stopped turning for you.

 

[ttpete]

The best type of twist drill for use in wood is a brad point drill.

 

[M_George]

Hex shank drill bits might help as well if the chuck is slipping on the bit. Also, try a slower speed if your drill is variable.

 

[bcradio]

The best type of twist drill for use in wood is a brad point drill.

I didn't realize the type of drill mattered so much... only the type of bit.

 

[66cj225]

Use a bigger drill press with a better chuck!!

 

[hellagrant]

Was kind of hoping it would be a straight unanimous answer lol. Thank you all for replies. I think ultimately I am just going to upgrade my tools and bits, but perhaps I will buy bits that are specifically for wood. Ryobi served me well for basic stuff but I been doing more diy stuff(side note, I am a fan of corded tools now, when doing stuff at home finding an outlet is no problem).

I will try the pull back method that is mentioned for the time being.

 

[Cougar]

As you are drilling pull back on the drill every 1/2 inch or so to clear the shavings. Don't need to stop the drill or reverse it, just pull it back and then continue drilling.

^^^^^^^
Do this and you will have no more problem.

 

[jimgood]

All of the above and I'll add that this sounds like more of a problem with the drill and not the bits. Are you using a battery powered drill? If so, it might not be generating enough torque.

 

[hellagrant]

All of the above and I'll add that this sounds like more of a problem with the drill and not the bits. Are you using a battery powered drill? If so, it might not be generating enough torque.

Yeah battery powered Ryobi(cheap brand, probably the cheapest at Home Depot). I will be getting corded tools, I believe a home diy person should get all corded. Batteries require recharging, maintenance, cost more, etc.

Plan on getting all Dewalt quality or above corded tools within a year. Ryobi does ****, but to be fair, it does work and was cheap.

 

[gahrajmahal]

I too like corded power tools. I suggest a Milwaukee Magnum with 1/2" chuck, refurbished from CPO tools.
http://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-r...ilr0299-80,default,pd.html?cgid=drill-drivers

Mine is over 20 years old and basically the same offered currently. So much torque it will hurt your wrists if you don't have a good hold on it. I second brad point bits. Try Grizzley or Rockler.

 

[Engine]

Yeah battery powered Ryobi(cheap brand, probably the cheapest at Home Depot). I will be getting corded tools, I believe a home diy person should get all corded. Batteries require recharging, maintenance, cost more, etc.

Plan on getting all Dewalt quality or above corded tools within a year. Ryobi does ****, but to be fair, it does work and was cheap.

I have some Ryobi battery powered drills as well as corded Dewalt drills. They both work just fine in drilling wood and metal with regular twist drill bits. There are advantages to both types of drills, depending on the way you will need to use them.

The problem with the drill bits sticking in the wood seems more likely to be caused by the chuck not being tightened enough to hold the bits to prevent slipping. Sometimes the hand-tightened chucks are hard to get tight enough, whereas the ones that use a key can be cranked down tighter, but the hand-tightened are quicker to use. As Furd50 mentioned, clearing the wood shavings occasionally during drilling will help, assuming that the chuck is holding the bit securely.

 

[MikeF2316]

My old Craftsman corded drill had this problem. I ended up replacing the chuck.

 

[bareass172]

Ridgid has a known, well-documented problem with the chuck on their 12V drills.
This kind:
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/12v-2speed-drill-driver-and-impact-driver-combo
The older version of those were great, but the last few years they have a different chuck and they slip like crazy. Ryobi/Ridgid is same parent co, so maybe same crappy chuck.

Just food for thought - I wouldn't blame just the bit, even a cheap one, for the problem the OP describes.

 

[Captain Spaulding]

I didn't realize the type of drill mattered so much... only the type of bit.

Originally the drill was the thing that did the cutting and the thing that turned it was the drill motor.

 

[ovrrdrive]

Was kind of hoping it would be a straight unanimous answer lol.

Nothing on this forum is ever straight or unanimous... lol

 

[mbshop]

I have drilled a lot of holes in wood with metal bits. As mentioned already, while drilling you must pull out the bit and then go back in. All this while the bit is turning. The shaving do not flow out of the metal bits well and will actually jam the bit. So drill in a little, pull out so the shaving fall out and back in for more cutting and repeat. Easy peasy.

 

[DavidAPT]

First try here...41" craftsman tool chest on top. Jonesboro sidebox, blueprint bottoming (24x36 drawers)

I had to take my 52" bottom chest to my new job.

 

[DavidAPT]

....oops

 

[wolf_from_wv]

My Ryobi 1/2" chuck cordless drill will not hold a 1/16" bit. I bought a cheap 3/8" chuck drill for that. I'm not sure if the next size or two would spin or not, they seem to work ok.

I usually use the regular twist drills.