Drill bits I can resharpen?

[VolvoRyan]

I need to buy drill bits again. For the most part, I'm drilling steel/aluminum with cordless drills. Not really doing fabrication as much as dealing with broken fasteners or rivets.

For years, I've been stuck in the endless cycle of gimmicky drill bits from the local box store: You need something in a pinch so you hit the box store and wind up with bits that have a fancy coating or funny tip. Individual bits are so much more expensive "per bit" than just buying another set..... so another set it is. I gotta break the cycle and get some grown up drill bits.

What bits are you guys running that have some reasonable life expectancy and are also "easy" to resharpen (I'm reading the other thread right now).... and where individual bits can be replaced easy enough from the internet.

Thanks!

-Ryan

 

[Dave455]

First off, you’re generally much better off buying drill bits from either a specialist drill supplier, or an engineers supplier, than anywhere else.

You get a much better quality drill bit, and a much better price.

I’m reluctant to recommend a drill supplier as I’m in the U.K. so have different options, but there will be some. Similar as regards engineers suppliers, but I sometimes use MSC, who I know are in the U.S.

Basically, for steel, you can do worse than get good quality HSS bits. If you get the right supplier, anything they supply will be decent, and they can probably offer advice. If you have problems with heat, then cobalt is preferable, but not otherwise. Below 1/8 or 3mm I get TiN coated and treat them as disposable.

You can drill aluminium with HSS, but for better results you need a “quick helix” drill. Again, the drill supplier should be able to advise.

 

[Rinspeed]

All the bits I see in big box stores are made in China junk. I stick with Norseman because they are very high quality and hold up as well as anything I've tried.

 

[WhoWhatNow]

If you are drilling out broken bolts, you may want to get a set of left had drill bits. McMaster-Carr is a good source for quality US made bits.

 

[Rinspeed]

https://www.amazon.com/Norseman-44170-240-UB-Degree-Premium/dp/B00627C8ZU?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Nessism]

There are USA made sets on Amazon. And if you have the patience to learn all the nuisance, a Drill Doctor works okay for sharpening bits 1/4" and larger.

 

[lardy1]

I bought a small set of left hand off Amazon pretty reasonable. Drill Hog brand. Made in USA and says lifetime warranty (I'd have to see it to believe it). I've drilled out broken and rounded screws with them. Well worth the few bucks for the small set (1/16 thru 1/4) in my opinion.

EDIT:

Kinda overlooked the resharpening mentioned. I'm not sure if lefties resharpen the same or not.

 

[whateg01]

Most any drill can be resharpened the normal way, even if it comes with a "funny end" from the factory. It'll just take a little more time to get it there

 

[PCustoms]

Most any drill can be resharpened the normal way, even if it comes with a "funny end" from the factory. It'll just take a little more time to get it there

This!

If you can sharpen, start sharpening what you've already got. No reason to Start over

 

[GaryM909]

Start by buying the ones you need from an industrial supply store. You will get better quality than the big box stores and will last longer especially if you learn to sharpen them.
I just pay cash at the counter and save quite a bit of money by giving them a company name that has an account there.

 

[nadogail]

I try to always use a good cutting fluid when drilling metal, a few drops is generally enough to make a difference.
At my Drill Press I keep a shallow dish glued to a magnet with a little juice in it, a quick swipe with a small brush usually brings enough cutting fluid to where it is needed.

 

[LopezBart]

Normal HSS drill bits are completely adequate for drilling mild steel. The import ones work ok for most purposes, although some are not sharpened correctly. Being able to sharpen drill bits (either via a Drill Doctor/etc or by hand) will definitely save some $$. Keep cutting speeds reasonable; the cheaper drill bits seem to lose their temper more easily. For materials like 316 stainless that work harden, you have to maintain a steady pressure on the drill; letting up will make the material much harder to get through. The high cutting pressure needed means you need to run the drill more slowly to prevent overheating the cutting edges. This is where colbalt alloy drills are quite useful; they maintain their hardness at higher temperatures.
I've had reasonable luck with import drills from HF and Enco (back in the day).

 

[no704]

+1 for using some lube. I was working on a friend’s lawnmower with a crusty old machinist. Had to drill a hole in the deck for something. He was very impressed when I started the hole then spit on it to continue the cut.

 

[Plastikosmd]

Agree with a “good” set.

There is a lot of junk out there, especially at box stores.

Now they subdivided the metal drilling bits into “metal” and “hard metal”


(The prior “wood” vs “metal” was also a joke)

One would think the “hard metal” would mean ar500, tool steel or the equivalent.

Nope, basically metal stud vs mild steel

So, “wood” and “metal” = joke

“Hard metal” = likely your typical HSS bits of old

If no local McMaster store, I have found good sets at my local welding stores

 

[jayemm]

I've had decent luck with these black oxide Dewalt bits. Even Project Farm gave them a good review when testing drill bits. Available at Big Box stores and made in China. I've had a few sets and they've been good for the price.
As for "easy to sharpen", for me that's non- split point (standard 118*). I don't see how a person could split a point when sharpening by hand on a grinder. And "thinning the web" hasn't worked too well for me either. My lousy technique must be the reason for crude results.
*** Drilling Stainless Steel***
For the little I've done (comparatively) , so far the best results for hand drilling have been from "peck drilling".
1) sharp bit (obviously)
2) Moderate down pressure so the bit gets a good bite.
3) DRY -- no cutting fluid/lube
4) slow speed maybe 200-300 rpm
5) 2-3 SECONDS MAX then let up for 5-10 seconds
Lube not needed so bit gets a good bite and 2-3 seconds doesn't produce enough heat to harm bit or work harden the stainless. Slow was faster.

 

[plinker]

Norseman HSS is a good bit for general use. They resharpen nice with a drill doctor.

Home depot had a set of Dewalt HSS bits for about 6$ at black friday season, they have been pretty good bits in general according to those that I gave them to. I think these are them, https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Black-and-Gold-Twist-Drill-Bit-Set-10-Piece-DWA1180/315390993

 

[Steve_P]

Another Norseman and Drill Doctor fan.

 

[Jswain]

This!

If you can sharpen, start sharpening what you've already got. No reason to Start over

X2. Sharpen what you have and use them for the dirty work

Keep a decent set for the drillpress if you have one.

 

[VolvoRyan]

Thanks, gang!

I went with Norseman. Yes, I could have resharpened my existing bits, but I really needed a full, fresh set for the front line.... and with a better index so I can keep track of what needs sharpened/replaced.

-Ryan

 

[PCustoms]

Spammer reported

 

[PFSard]

Ryan : How are you making out with the Norseman selection? I've had good luck with them.

Just my two cents to complement the other great suggestions :

* I recently bought individual bits of the smaller sizes from Harry J Epstein. Seemed to be good quality.
* I bought a ten pack of Cobalt 1/8" drill bits for starting holes in stubborn materials. Upping to the appropriate larger hole with HSS.
* I sharpen the larger sizes. Sometimes free hand. Sometimes using a Drill Doctor.
* I store my fractional bits in a metal folding case. Ones that are starting to dull are marked on the the end using nail polish, and stored upside down.
* I keep fresh bits in a Huot master index (which I bought used many moons ago). But any plastic case will do.
* Used bits that need sharpening are placed in box marked "Needs Sharpening".

 

[craftsman creep]

 

[Schurkey]

I own a Norseman round plastic drill index and their fractional bits. They're nice, they're not "fabulous". Overall, I prefer the HSS bits I got as "military surplus" decades ago. Some of them have been resharpened down to stubs, or just plain lost. The only problem with the Mil-Surp is that the size markings on the end have gotten mutilated over time--worn-out drill chucks are to blame there. When new, the size markings were perfectly adequate when I had younger eyes; even the bits that aren't damaged are illegible now.

I despise split-points. I can re-sharpen them, but it's a pain in the asp, takes three times as long and that's if I don't screw-up. Best if I true-up the grinding wheel before sharpening bits. OTOH, the thicker web makes for a stronger bit...but I don't break a lot of bits even with the thinner webs. The thick webs does mean that I can't get away without drilling a pilot hole, though. So making a proper hole takes longer, more effort, and harder to resharpen when the bit eventually gets dull or chipped.

 

[RoninB4]

I suppose the split point grind makes a difference if you're using a hand drill or the material is of a tough-to-cut nature. I seldom use a hand drill because I have machinery that will do a better job. With the leverage advantage of a machine, a split-point is a minor advantage not really worth the trouble of grinding in. I will grind a split point in once in a while just for practice but prefer the quicker/easier chisel point grind.

The chisel point doesn't really need a full pilot hole, it only needs enough chamfer-like of a divot to stay centered in location. A center-drill, a fluteless starter drill, or anything that makes a conical cut larger than the chisel point of the intended twist drill will suffice. If you need better location control then a hand drill is a poor choice, you should be using a drill guide/bushing, or a mill to locate the hole.

I would encourage learning to sharpen drills by hand at a bench grinder, not a big fan of the Drill Doctor. Getting the drill point centered is not an easy thing even with a drill sharpening gauge. If hole size is important for what I'm doing then I drill undersize and then go in with the intended size drill. Doing it this way does require a change of drill bits (big deal...) but using this method means there's no chance of drilling an oversize hole because of an incorrectly sharpened drill bit.

Making a hole that needs to be either to a given size, location, or both requires methods that aren't that much extra trouble and do ensure predictable results. If size/location isn't that important then use what works for you. If size/location is important then do what the professionals do. It's your project and your choice.

I prefer using HSS drills from a reputable company, the no-name drills get used for things that aren't important. I keep sets of cobalt drills but I only use them when I have to. Any carbide drills I have are only used when HSS isn't going to cut it.

 

[Nick Rivers]

He has a follow up video and compares the Vevor MR-13 sharpening machine to a Drill Doctor:

 

[stillnostrebor]

You guys beat me to the Watch Wes Work vids. He did a great job of walking through sharpening bits in those two videos.

 

[RoninB4]

No experience with the Vevor so I have no opinion other than the reputation of the video author. Have used the Darex, Oliver, and Black Diamond drill sharpeners in machine shops with good results. Have two industrial cutter grinders in home shop but still mostly grind by hand unless it's a critical hole. When that applies I use different methods.

The Vevor sounds like a much better option but at twice the price of a Drill Doctor it's a bit expensive. I'd much prefer spending the money on a decent bench grinder but that's just me. As he stated there have been NO Drill Doctors in any shop he's worked at. There was one at a large MFG. facility I worked at in 2005 and I used/reviewed it as being a POS not worth using. Several people agreed and it was tossed a few weeks later. JME/JMO

 

[dscheidt]

No experience with the Vevor so I have no opinion other than the reputation of the video author. Have used the Darex, Oliver, and Black Diamond drill sharpeners in machine shops with good results. Have two industrial cutter grinders in home shop but still mostly grind by hand unless it's a critical hole. When that applies I use different methods.

The Vevor sounds like a much better option but at twice the price of a Drill Doctor it's a bit expensive. I'd much prefer spending the money on a decent bench grinder but that's just me. As he stated there have been NO Drill Doctors in any shop he's worked at. There was one at a large MFG. facility I worked at in 2005 and I used/reviewed it as being a POS not worth using. Several people agreed and it was tossed a few weeks later. JME/JMO

I can sharpen bits by hand, and I have a drill doctor. The drill doctor works, and I can get a sharp, accurately cut bit on it, but it's pretty well ****. It requires a very very light touch when setting the bit and grinding it, otherwise something is deformed and it doesn't grind accurately. There are many choices for what's going to deform, as it's all plastic and only slight more rigid than a plate of spaghetti. if you're trying to put a point on a broken bit, forget it.

I haven't used one of the darex clones, but they're probably reasonably good.

 

[ricleh]

I have a drill doctor and it has worked well for me. I wondered if there was something better so I got a Darex XT3000 Auto sharpener. I have sharpened a few thousand drill bits with the XT3000 and it is a pleasure to use. The bits come out as good or better than brand new. The drill doctor does an acceptable job if used correctly. If you sharpen a lot of drill bits then get an industrial sharpener. I can make a mangled bit better than new with or without a split point in a minute or two. The XT3000 can also sharpen left hand drill bits, countersinks and brad point bits.

 

[nadogail]

People won’t learn how to resharpen an expensive drill bit, but they they will resharpen a cheap pencil.
Go figure out why.
A simple Accessory mounted to your grinder quickly pays for it self.

 

[WhoWhatNow]

I have a drill doctor and it has worked well for me. I wondered if there was something better so I got a Darex XT3000 Auto sharpener. I have sharpened a few thousand drill bits with the XT3000 and it is a pleasure to use. The bits come out as good or better than brand new. The drill doctor does an acceptable job if used correctly. If you sharpen a lot of drill bits then get an industrial sharpener. I can make a mangled bit better than new with or without a split point in a minute or two. The XT3000 can also sharpen left hand drill bits, countersinks and brad point bits.

Any idea how different the XT3000 and the V-390 are? Is the XT just more robust or is the basic mechanism different as well?

 

[ricleh]

Any idea how different the XT3000 and the V-390 are? Is the XT just more robust or is the basic mechanism different as well?

The XT3000 and the V-390 are very different. The XT3000 is heavy duty versus the V-390 being medium duty. The XT3000 also has many different attachments available to enable a wide range of sharpening options which are not available for the V-390. The auto feature of the XT3000 is really nice. You align the bit in the chuck and put it into the sharpening port and hit the start button. The machine rotates the chuck and sharpens the bit and then shuts off - all automatically. I've sharpened 300 drill bits at a time with the XT3000. To resharpen dull bits it takes about a minute per bit. I'm sure the V-390 is fine if you are resharpening standard drill bits from 1/8" to 1/2", but I also do 90 degree bits, countersinks, left hand drill bits, large bits up to 1", brad point bits and some solid carbide drill bits. Go to Darex.com and watch the videos.

 

[RoninB4]

I have a drill doctor and it has worked well for me. I wondered if there was something better so I got a Darex XT3000 Auto sharpener. I have sharpened a few thousand drill bits with the XT3000 and it is a pleasure to use. The bits come out as good or better than brand new. The drill doctor does an acceptable job if used correctly. If you sharpen a lot of drill bits then get an industrial sharpener. I can make a mangled bit better than new with or without a split point in a minute or two. The XT3000 can also sharpen left hand drill bits, countersinks and brad point bits.

Real nice looking piece of equipment you have there, never used the auto models with any sharpener system. It would probably be a real pleasure to use but the ROI would have to mean I'd need to be in a different tax bracket or have a different type of shop clientele. Thanks for posting.

 

[Plombob]

I've had about five different drill sharpeners. I was lucky to find a Drill Doctor at an estate sale, and picked it up for $12. It's better than all of the others. It only takes a few minutes to learn. I'm sure the Durex is a better machine, but for $4,300, it should be.