Drill Chuck accessory for 3/8 impact wrench

[Solemn]

So is there anyone at that makes one? I'd rather not buy a whole drill when I could just throw on an attachment and go.

I mostly and occasionally use a co workers drill for steel and iron and when I get called out on service calls it would be nice to just take my matco 3/8 impact wrench instead of asking to borrow his drill. Plus I don't want to buy an entire drill I only use one or two times a week. Searching Google all I found were attachment for impact drivers but I want one for a wrench. Any help is appreciated

 

[zkling]

A number of companies produce them.
Here are a few examples

http://www.ajaxtools.com/product-1014/

http://www.cowanchuck.com/id19.html

 

[geojag]

Does that not break drill bits? In my 1/4 bit impact driver, I have had quite a few drill bits break when they seize slightly and the driver starts impacting.

 

[Askme42]

Does that not break drill bits? In my 1/4 bit impact driver, I have had quite a few drill bits break when they seize slightly and the driver starts impacting.

Yeah I'd just buy a drill. I know it can work in a pinch but I wouldn't count on it as my drill.

The op is already borrowing coworkers drills. He should just buck up and buy a drill.

 

[Solemn]

My thought was it would be like a hammer drill but... Idk lol

 

[geojag]

My thought was it would be like a hammer drill but... Idk lol

Except you would be impacting rotationally, not vertically. Bit made for drilling steel are hard and would break, which is the experience I have had in a 1/4 inch drive impact driver using Milwaukee Shockwave drill bits. I imagine high quality steel drill bits would be even more prone to failure.

The link on Cowan chuck adapter webpage goes here: http://www.cowanchuck.com/id20.html. It seems to be made for a 1/4 inch impact, with a square drive adapter. I have no idea why you wouldn't just buy bits with the 1/4 inch hex end. I doubt it would stand up to the torque of an air impact for long.

 

[sam.coll]

IMHO if your needing a drill 2 times a week, you need to buy a drill!

 

[Ign]

The Cowan one woulda helped me a couple days ago. I don't know why they say you've gotta adapt a 1/4" hex to 1/2" sq drive -- I think they just think those are the majority of cordless impacts out there. But 1/2" sq drive is 1/2" sq drive, so it should work on a 1/2" impact or, obviously, just adapt 3/8" sq (for the OP) to 1/2" square.

I needed 1/2" SHANK capacity (which the Cowan offers) and wound up ordering a 1/4" hex to 1/2-20 chuck mount, then ordered a separate drill chuck to mount on the threaded adapter. I'm opening up holes in Al w a reduced-shank (S&D) bit and I'm hoping the impact driver will be more likely to just drill and less likely the thread it's way into the hole due to the twist bit.

 

[Strouty]

Are those are for masonry type bits? You would be crazy to drill in steel. As soon as you put any type of load on the thing wouldn't it just beat your drill bit to death? Who comes up with these crazy ideas anyways?

I want a hole saw attachment for my sawzall and maybe a drill chuck too, that way I don't need the correct tools to finish the job.

 

[dutchgray]

Impact wrench would also beat the chuck to death in fairly short order, unless it was really meant for impact use which would make it expensive. Buy a drill, drills are cheap.

 

[Strouty]

OK, this is crazy talk, am I just too old to think this could actually work?

 

[Strouty]

I actually bought the optional ice maker for my bench grinder.

Seriously though, I would never think that this would work, but I guess my thinking is outdated.

 

[jim faston]

I believe Craftsman sold them in 3/8 and 1/2.

 

[Ign]

OK, this is crazy talk, am I just too old to think this could actually work?

What do you mean? I didn't watch but the first 20 seconds of that video, but he's just talking hole saws, right?

You've seen woodstockva's review, right?
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249629

Drilling w a step bit with an impact driver is pretty sweet, at least in softer materials - I personally haven't tried steel plate but I bet sheetmetal would be awesome. Easy for you to go try: grab some HF step bits and your 1/4" hex impact driver & decide for yourself.

 

[Solemn]

Oh well if it won't work it just won't and I'll get a drill later

 

[Ign]

Impact wrench would also beat the chuck to death in fairly short order, unless it was really meant for impact use which would make it expensive. Buy a drill, drills are cheap.

I debated that too & finally ordered a Hitachi chuck meant for a hammer drill, but I really don't see how an impact (rotational) is HARDER on a chuck than a hammer drill. Besides, regular drill chucks see massive rotational shock loads every single time a bit binds or grabs (and tries to rip your arm off, which an impact driver won't do - - same as how an impact wrench can put out 1200 ft lbs and not spin you in a circle.)

 

[Strouty]

What do you mean? I didn't watch but the first 20 seconds of that video, but he's just talking hole saws, right?

You've seen woodstockva's review, right?
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249629

Drilling w a step bit with an impact driver is pretty sweet, at least in softer materials - I personally haven't tried steel plate but I bet sheetmetal would be awesome. Easy for you to go try: grab some HF step bits and your 1/4" hex impact driver & decide for yourself.

They were showing the difference and I had never seen or even heard of using an impact for a drill. I know I have destroyed bits by having a drill accidentally on hammer mode before.

 

[Solemn]

I debated that too & finally ordered a Hitachi chuck meant for a hammer drill, but I really don't see how an impact (rotational) is HARDER on a chuck than a hammer drill. Besides, regular drill chucks see massive rotational shock loads every single time a bit binds or grabs (and tries to rip your arm off, which an impact driver won't do - - same as how an impact wrench can put out 1200 ft lbs and not spin you in a circle.)

So with the cowan 1/2 to 3/8 can I actually drill anything or an I breaking every bit?
http://www.cowanchuck.com/id19.html

 

[jim1987]

I use adapters all the time from 1/4 drive ratchets to 1/2 impact sockets all the time. Haven't got an axle nut off yet, but it works.

 

[geojag]

I debated that too & finally ordered a Hitachi chuck meant for a hammer drill, but I really don't see how an impact (rotational) is HARDER on a chuck than a hammer drill. Besides, regular drill chucks see massive rotational shock loads every single time a bit binds or grabs (and tries to rip your arm off, which an impact driver won't do - - same as how an impact wrench can put out 1200 ft lbs and not spin you in a circle.)

I have a SDS plus chuck for my Bosch Bulldog, the instructions that came with it said to use it in the rotation only drill mode. I picked it up because at the time I didn't have a good 1/2 drill.
Impact with a hammer drill is perpendicular to rotation.
Even so, I would bet the chuck for a hammer drill is a lot stouter than a regular drill, can't say because I use a SDS plus hammer drill, not regular style.
Regardless, have you seen any good drill bits that are rated for impact use? Milwaukee shockwave are supposed to be but I have broken them in my beastly 12v max Dewalt impact driver.

 

[sam.coll]

A chattering drill bit is the fastest way to dull a good sharp bit when going thru steel so i cant imagine an impact would be any better


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[dutchgray]

I have a SDS plus chuck for my Bosch Bulldog, the instructions that came with it said to use it in the rotation only drill mode. I picked it up because at the time I didn't have a good 1/2 drill.
Impact with a hammer drill is perpendicular to rotation.
Even so, I would bet the chuck for a hammer drill is a lot stouter than a regular drill, can't say because I use a SDS plus hammer drill, not regular style.
Regardless, have you seen any good drill bits that are rated for impact use? Milwaukee shockwave are supposed to be but I have broken them in my beastly 12v max Dewalt impact driver.

Percussion hammer drills are very weak compared to what an SDS drill puts out, even so if you use it as a hammer drill alot the chucks tend to not last that long.
Impact drivers/ wrenches can be good for step drills or hole saws as they are nicer when it snags up, but so is a drill with a decent clutch on it. Even drilling wood my impact driver goes through hex ended drill bits pretty fast.

 

[Ign]

So with the cowan 1/2 to 3/8 can I actually drill anything or an I breaking every bit?
http://www.cowanchuck.com/id19.html

I'd say it depends.....on what you're drilling and quality of your bits and size of bits. Smaller than, say, 5/16", you'll probably be snapping bits, at least in steel. I wouldn't use über-cheap bits, and I wouldn't use top dollar either.

A chattering drill bit is the fastest way to dull a good sharp bit when going thru steel so i cant imagine an impact would be any better


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Agreed but chatter is in the Z axis, like a hammer drill. A rotational stop/go isn't really chatter, and if the bit is sharp and cutting properly it'll just resume cutting that chip with each impact. Similar to a chisel taking off a shaving of wood w each blow of the hammer (not a perfect example, keyword = similar).

I'm not saying drilling w an impact is the way we all should go, but for the OP's needs from post #1 it's not outlandish to think it could meet his needs.

 

[MatBirch]

I use one daily. It's a heck of a lot more comvienent to carry one tool and a few peices than carry two tools. Up and down ladders, etc. I do tons of riveting and monobolt/magbulb installs. Often it's just predrilling for installing a sheetmetal screw. In 6years or so, I don't think I've ever broken a bit because of the impacting, and we just use regular old twist drill bits. I also have a set of the Dewalt thin-wall impactor hole saws. Greatest thing ever. When roughing in electrical, they run circles around the old school carbide ko cutters.

 

[Solemn]

I'd say it depends.....on what you're drilling and quality of your bits and size of bits. Smaller than, say, 5/16", you'll probably be snapping bits, at least in steel. I wouldn't use über-cheap bits, and I wouldn't use top dollar either.



Agreed but chatter is in the Z axis, like a hammer drill. A rotational stop/go isn't really chatter, and if the bit is sharp and cutting properly it'll just resume cutting that chip with each impact. Similar to a chisel taking off a shaving of wood w each blow of the hammer (not a perfect example, keyword = similar).

I'm not saying drilling w an impact is the way we all should go, but for the OP's needs from post #1 it's not outlandish to think it could meet his needs.

So then it would be viable? I drill steel and iron and aluminum pretty much exclusively and my holes are no smaller than 7/16

 

[Ign]

So then it would be viable? I drill steel and iron and aluminum pretty much exclusively and my holes are no smaller than 7/16

I've only used step bits with my 1/4" cordless impact driver but my 1/2-20 mount and 1/2" chuck are due to arrive today and I definitely plan to update this thread. I was only going to open up some holes in Al but now I want to try drilling some steel plate/flat bar too.

Let's not forget one of the Euro brands (Metabo?) has the "hole starter" option on their drills, which essentially stops/starts repeatedly to theoretically keep a bit from walking. Granted, it only does it at the beginning before a bit is really imbedded into a cut. I saw a video Monte posted once, the concept looked solid to me; I do this manually all the time when starting a hole, ie pulse the trigger.

 

[Ign]

Ok so busy day & didn't manage to try any steel today, but I did receive my 1/4" hex adapter & 1/2" chuck. I immediately loaded it into my M18 2650 impact driver & did what I had ordered it for: opening up holes in 1/8" Al from 3/4" to 25/32". Way better than using my drills which were just threading in a twist bit.

 

[Solemn]

Ok so busy day & didn't manage to try any steel today, but I did receive my 1/4" hex adapter & 1/2" chuck. I immediately loaded it into my M18 2650 impact driver & did what I had ordered it for: opening up holes in 1/8" Al from 3/4" to 25/32". Way better than using my drills which were just threading in a twist bit.

So drilling is possible, nice. I wanted to test it on my matco box but the adapter hasn't come yet, excited however.

 

[Ign]

Still haven't tried drilling much else but after opening up my Al pieces to 25/32" I can tell you I should have ordered a keyed chuck. The keyless Hitachi I got (despite being plastic-sleeved---it's a Hitachi 324205, available on Amazon w an incorrect picture of a Rohm but correct pic can be found at ereplacementparts.com: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/drill-chuck-13vlrdn-chuck-wrench-p-185202.html) takes self-tightening to heart and the impacting action helps it crank down. I had to put it in my vise & use a strap wrench to get my bit out. My bit is quality (either Triumph or PTD, don't remember) and the shank was left w three tiny indents from the crushing force of the jaws, NOT smear marks from slipping mind you.

So, any questions about impacting causing bits to slip or chucks to loosen can be put to rest - if anything it's the opposite.

edit: the 1/4" hex to 1/2-20 chuck mount I ordered from Amazon was an Isomax Eazypower 30206, presently $8.01

 

[Solemn]

That's great now I might splurge to get the cowan chuck

 

[uart]

Still haven't tried drilling much else but after opening up my Al pieces to 25/32"

I've got a question for Ign (or anyone else using these adaptors). Does the chuck wobble at all on the impact anvil?

I only have an impact driver (1/4" hex) and I occasionally use hex shanked drill bits in that. But it's definitely a lot more wobbly than having a bit firmly chucked in a real drill. It's fine for simple pilot holes and the like, but I wouldn't be too keen on drilling anything serious in steel like that.

Just wondering if the chuck adaptors are better than this or if they're much the same.

 

[MJD1]

I think the biggest issue which I haven't seen mentioned is the much higher RPM of an impact. I have used 1/4" hex drive bits in my 20 volt dewalt impact driver without issue, but a 3/8" impact is going to have pretty high rpm.

 

[Voi]

So with the cowan 1/2 to 3/8 can I actually drill anything or an I breaking every bit?
http://www.cowanchuck.com/id19.html

I have a corded Bosch drill, a cordless Hitachi drill (and the matching impact driver) and a cordless Bosch pocket driver.

Even with those choices I still try to carry a 1/4" chuck for my impact driver and wouldn't want to be without it. If I add an impact wrench to my arsenal I'd absolutely pick up the chuck in the above link and have it around just in case I needed it. If it was $50 maybe not but for $20 I think it's worth having.

Granted it would likely be my second to last choice for drilling 7/16"+ holes in steel but I wouldn't be surprised at all if I used it for other drilling needs.

Test it out and see how it works. I'm all for carrying one less tool when venturing away from my shop.

 

[Ign]

I've got a question for Ign (or anyone else using these adaptors). Does the chuck wobble at all on the impact anvil?

I only have an impact driver (1/4" hex) and I occasionally use hex shanked drill bits in that. But it's definitely a lot more wobbly than having a bit firmly chucked in a real drill. It's fine for simple pilot holes and the like, but I wouldn't be too keen on drilling anything serious in steel like that.

Just wondering if the chuck adaptors are better than this or if they're much the same.

Yes, my setup is/was very wobbly as a result of the fit of the 1/4 hex. But it's exaggerated from my adapter which is stupid long, it puts the back of the drill chuck like 1.25" (guessing) from the nose of the tool. Add a heavy 1/2" chuck and a reduced shank drill and that thing can be like a wrecking ball (gross exaggeration) once it starts slopping around.

I think the biggest issue which I haven't seen mentioned is the much higher RPM of an impact. I have used 1/4" hex drive bits in my 20 volt dewalt impact driver without issue, but a 3/8" impact is going to have pretty high rpm.

Not necessarily. A drill pretty much wants to hold a given rpm no matter what. But impacts are rated "free speed" for a reason, and they have a clutch. In fact it's not ridiculous to argue that an impact is easier on a drill because the greater the load per tooth (er flute) the slower it is going to spin. But there are a zillion variables, most obviously material being drilled and feed, ie how hard the user is leaning on the tool.

In the end there are too many variables really, but the point is that rpm of the bit is, well, variable since an impact allows "slip."

 

[MJD1]

Torque with a drill is from gear reduction , with an impact torque is gained through the impact mechanism. While a drill may tighten a fastener it does so in a different way than an impact does. For light gauge , soft metal the impact may work, but get into thicker steel or any stainless steel and you will be tearing up drill bits.