I've sharpened bits by hand a few times with mixed results. Used dd twice both times bits ended up razor sharp drilling through metal with ease .
No brainer for me.
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Drill doctor
- Thread starter Brian1963
- Start date
I've sharpened bits by hand a few times with mixed results. Used dd twice both times bits ended up razor sharp drilling through metal with ease .
No brainer for me.
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rustyjames
Well-known member
I have to chime in and say that I tried out my friends DD and was impressed with how well it worked.
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
I bought a 750X used from an old man that didn't need it anymore. He got a lot of good use out of it, and so have I...
There was a little learning curve at the beginning, but it's not rocket science with their setup and the few steps are really easy to follow.
Bits over 3/4" I still have to sharpen on my grinder or just stick in a vise and do by hand. But they never turn out nearly as nice, but they get the job done... If it's a high-dollar bit I will take it to a professional sharpener in town that charges like a couple bucks a bit.
I drill mostly wood and thin / mild steel. You don't realize how dull a bit is until you sharpen it up and go, "Man this cuts sooo much better".
When I have to break out the DD, I will usually touch up several other bits at the same time since it goes so quick and most of the time is just taking it out of the box and getting it setup / put away.
I've had a few bits with really messed up tips. I just grind them down on the bench grinder (carefully as to note burn the metal / ruin the temper). Grind a rough angle, then let the DD do the rest. It can a while, but better than throwing in the trash.
There was a little learning curve at the beginning, but it's not rocket science with their setup and the few steps are really easy to follow.
Bits over 3/4" I still have to sharpen on my grinder or just stick in a vise and do by hand. But they never turn out nearly as nice, but they get the job done... If it's a high-dollar bit I will take it to a professional sharpener in town that charges like a couple bucks a bit.
I drill mostly wood and thin / mild steel. You don't realize how dull a bit is until you sharpen it up and go, "Man this cuts sooo much better".
When I have to break out the DD, I will usually touch up several other bits at the same time since it goes so quick and most of the time is just taking it out of the box and getting it setup / put away.
I've had a few bits with really messed up tips. I just grind them down on the bench grinder (carefully as to note burn the metal / ruin the temper). Grind a rough angle, then let the DD do the rest. It can a while, but better than throwing in the trash.
Provincial
Well-known member
If you need to take a lot off the bit with a Drill Doctor (or any other sharpener), you need to reset the tool before you take the final cut. In other words, get the bit pretty close, then start over with the alignment process and then finish the job.
This is because the flutes spiral and as you grind off the tip, it changes the alignment of the bit to the grinding wheel. The Drill Doctor alignment process works well as long as you don't progress up the spiral very far.
I think that this detail is one reason some people have had bad experiences with sharpening drill bits. It is not obvious because the ground edge will look good even if it is not aligned properly with the flutes.
This is because the flutes spiral and as you grind off the tip, it changes the alignment of the bit to the grinding wheel. The Drill Doctor alignment process works well as long as you don't progress up the spiral very far.
I think that this detail is one reason some people have had bad experiences with sharpening drill bits. It is not obvious because the ground edge will look good even if it is not aligned properly with the flutes.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Awesome... that is in the directions I read somewhere... broken bits need to be "adjusted" prior to the final pass. Adjusted = resetting the bit in the guide.
VDubJoe
Well-known member
Use my older 750 all the time. Agree with resetting at final pass.
Joe
Joe
sberry
Banned
I have a friend that has the 500X, and I borrow it when I have a few dozen dull bits to sharpen. I find it very nice for changing the point angle for special tasks. For example, to drill acrylic plastic with no breakout chips you need a very shallow angle (I shoot for >140 degrees since I mostly use templates with drill guides). The DD can make those relatively easy and works great.
Plus it's hard to argue with a machine that will sharpen literally 100 bits in less than an hr if you sort them before you start. I'm not sure if they offer finer grit diamond wheels, but if they do that would be a worthwhile option. Excellent machines for the shop.
Plus it's hard to argue with a machine that will sharpen literally 100 bits in less than an hr if you sort them before you start. I'm not sure if they offer finer grit diamond wheels, but if they do that would be a worthwhile option. Excellent machines for the shop.
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
Yes, they do sell different grit diamond wheels...
ffast65
Well-known member
have two 750s with different grit wheels. As a non machinist, these have helped me reuse 3 different drill bit sizes, literally to drill 1000s of spot welds on my mustang. I takes me longer to find them, than to drill them usually
The time saved alone was worth the cost, though I bought both used.
The time saved alone was worth the cost, though I bought both used.
pepi
Well-known member
Here is one, will the DD handle cobalt bits or just waste the diamond wheel ?
Greg
Greg
Once you get thru any coating on the bits, the base metal of cobalt drills is not appreciably harder than HSS bits. Diamond is still an order of magnitude harder, and will have no issues sharpening cobalt.
sberry
Banned
I will have to remember about the finger depth if the relief isn't right, good tip.
NORTON'S SHOP
Well-known member
Every time the topic of drill bits comes up, a couple of you freehand sharpening jokers have to come along.
If it's so frickin' easy, then find a way to communicate your foolproof system to the rest of us.
I've read instructions and watched videos 'till my eyes bleed, and permenently ruined lots of bits in the process, but I've never been able to do a damn bit of good hand sharpening drill bits. I suspect I'm not alone.
Practice, practice, practice. Back in the late 70's when I went to trade school, that's the first thing we had to learn. Couldn't move on the the next project until you could prove to the instructor that you could do it. He would take a new drill bit, hold it to the grinding wheel until it was almost flat. He'd hand it to you and say "you've got five minutes." After you had it sharpened, he'd chuck it up in a Bridgeport and if it made chips to his liking, you'd pass.
Quit crying about it...it's not that hard.
But really, whats the point? (no pun intended).
Most people probably just want to drill a hole, not become a master bit sharpener. I could sharpen bits 40 years ago as well, but I had different eyesight and a lot more free time, then.
Some can probably cut down a tree with an axe, but using a chainsaw just seems to make more sense.
ttpete
Well-known member
If the two cutting edges aren't of equal length, the point is off center and the hole it cuts will be oversize. This might not matter in rough work but will make a difference where size is important, such as drilling a hole that is to be tapped. I've seen this many times with freehand "sharpening".
No argument from me on that. I'm a DD fan for the very reason you have stated.
When I worked in metal shops 25 years ago, all bits were resharpened by machines.
I always believed bits were sharpened by hand, because there were no other options available. The bit sharpener had not been invented yet.
If people believe they get more accurate bit edges sharpening by hand, so be it.
ttpete
Well-known member
No argument from me on that. I'm a DD fan for the very reason you have stated.
When I worked in metal shops 25 years ago, all bits were resharpened by machines.
I always believed bits were sharpened by hand, because there were no other options available. The bit sharpener had not been invented yet.
If people believe they get more accurate bit edges sharpening by hand, so be it.
Where I worked, I just walked down to the tool crib and exchanged for a new drill. They only sent the bigger ones over to cutter grind for sharpening.
NORTON'S SHOP
Well-known member
There is no point trying to be made (no pun intended).
It's just something we had to learn. And I'm glad that I did. We also had to learn how to properly use a file. The only files being used in trade schools now are the files stored in their computers.
We also had to learn how to use a hack saw, even though there was a powered band saw and cut off saw in the shop.
The point being made in the last two paragraphs is that your powered drill sharpener or band saw may not be available to use when working outside the shop.
Have to say I have had good reports on them provided you take the time to read the instructions and be patient. Even if you don't get them 100% if it keeps you drilling it has to be a good thing as drill bits can be expensive.
In my experience many don't take care of them in the first place :
Drill slow
Ease off on the pressure
Use plenty of lube
Stop drilling if bit is struggling and allow it to cool down before continuing.
In my experience many don't take care of them in the first place :
Drill slow
Ease off on the pressure
Use plenty of lube
Stop drilling if bit is struggling and allow it to cool down before continuing.