Drill Dr. - Does it work?

[ChristopherLutz]

I have " a ton " of old bits that I can't bring myself to toss....anyone have experience with the Drill Dr.? thumbs up/down?

Opinions appreciated.

 

[autoclassicnut]

buy one, take your time and get 'em sharp... or if you want I'll buy them from you...
i don't know how much i would pay for "a ton" though...LOL

 

[bobadame]

Yes they work quite well for a plastic tool. I've used one at work for over 10 years. It's sharpened hundreds of bits without any problems. There is a technique to using them which involves the initial gripping of the bit in the adaptor. You've got to get that right for it to work. It's easy though. The one I use is the old, tall green style. Don't know about the newer shorter model. Maybe it's even better.

 

[antinym]

I have one of the older ones. Works great on dull bits. For some reason I don't think that the resharpened bits last as long as new bits, but I just sharpen them again. Takes about a minute per bit. You can do a split point, too, but I rarely do that.

 

[akdiesel]

I've had one for over five years now and it works great.

 

[Train]

I've had mine for about 5 years now. There are several different models that accommodate different sizes of bits. Mine does from 1/8 up to 1/2 inch bits. It not only sharpens but fixes up all of the bits I've ruined by trying to hand sharpen them.

Like bobadame said you have to get it chucked right, but it's not hard at all. Mine came with an instruction booklet and a DVD showing how to use it and the different models. I've read some bad reviews and I'm sure the people just didn't take the 3 to 5 seconds to make sure it was set right.

 

[mslisaj]

I must weigh in with a positive comment also. It's an amazing machine and I do use the "split point" sharpening method often. My bits are all sharp all the time and I don't know how I managed with out it for so many years. I paid around $100 for it a few years ago and it was a fantastic investment. The fun part was going through all my bits, finding the ones that were old and out of the index and making everything like new again.

Lisa

 

[torqueman2002]

I'll jump in with a .

I've had mine for about 10 years also and I am finally able to get a sharp drill on my 'own'.

Tried by hand for years with inconsistent results.

I have been able to sharpen wood paddle/spade bits also.

Good investment that will eventually pay for it's self.

 

[Zeke]

Very good tool.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

I've got the original 750 and I'm happy with it. It's not the caliber of a Darex, but for home use it's good.

 

[P Dubya]

Had mine for over 10 years.... I wouldnt be without it now.

 

[rlitman]

I've got the original 750 and I'm happy with it. It's not the caliber of a Darex, but for home use it's good.

I've got the original 750 and a Darex too. I still need to sell the Darex, it doesn't get used any more. The DD is made by Darex anyway. Once you get past the fact that it's plastic, it is a fantastic tool.

If you watch the videos, get acquainted with how to align the bit in the chuck. That, and the smooth motion you need to do the grinding is the hardest part. If a bit is really bad, you may need to do some heavy grinding, and then realign the bit in the chuck for a finish polishing, because as you grind the cutting edge back, the angles all change on you, and there's only so much you can grind before you need to readjust.

 

[ChristopherLutz]

Wow - I'm humbled you all took the time to answer so comprehensively! I really appreciate it - I hope the holidays and year end are treating everyone well.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

I've got the original 750 and a Darex too. I still need to sell the Darex, it doesn't get used any more. The DD is made by Darex anyway. Once you get past the fact that it's plastic, it is a fantastic tool.

If you watch the videos, get acquainted with how to align the bit in the chuck. That, and the smooth motion you need to do the grinding is the hardest part. If a bit is really bad, you may need to do some heavy grinding, and then realign the bit in the chuck for a finish polishing, because as you grind the cutting edge back, the angles all change on you, and there's only so much you can grind before you need to readjust.

I get good results with my DD, but compared to the $3500 Darex XT3000 I use at work, it's no where near the same.

Just out of curiosity, what Darex model do you have?

 

[Larwyn]

I got mine about 5 years ago. It paid for itself right off the bat by sharpening a Cadweld box full of old dull and broken drill bits. I probably only drag it out 2 or 3 times a year but it has already earned it's keep.

 

[rlitman]

Just out of curiosity, what Darex model do you have?

I'll have to dig it up and check. It's way old, I can say that.
For me, with the end results being the same, the biggest difference was bench space. The DD750 is small, and doesn't require a whole bench grinder behind it.

That XT3000 looks sweet. The borazon wheels your has should way outlast the diamond used in the DD for production grinding (perhaps more than 50x as long), but for me, the diamond still lasts plenty long, and my Darex just has a grit wheel.
Mine ancient model doesn't have any of the "additional" capabilities that this newer one has (mine doesn't split points, but my DD750 does, and your XT3000 can even do countersinks), but the older cam design is a little more intuitive in the way that it moves in your hand. It looks like the XT3000 has the same motions as a DD.
I can do a wider range of tip angles in the Darex than the DD, but 135 degrees suits my needs for just about everything anyway.

 

[2manytoyz]

I have one at work, as use it periodically. It DOES work. The bits are very sharp afterwards. The downside is the edge doesn't last near as long as the original. Think the temper is shot once they're dull. No biggie, just sharpen them again.

 

[fiveohpatrol]

am I the only one that sharpens "manually" with a typical bench grinder?

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Count me as +1 for the Drill Dr ($40 one from Lowe's). My bits are general home use. I resharpened the two sets I have here once (<1/2") and the bits work fine. For my use, this tool easily makes back its cost so I don't have to buy new bits. I've even fixed bits I've broken. It took a while but I got it back into service. For my needs the Drill Dr keeps my bits ready. (hah, that sounds funny)

I tried sharpening bits with a grinding stone but I can't get it right. It's a skill I need to put more time into learning. But the day I bought the Drill Dr, I needed to get metal drawers drilled for hardware so I couldn't take the detour.

 

[bobadame]

The process leaves a very fine grinding burr at the cutting edges of the bit. It is very important to stone this burr off. Otherwise the first time you use the bit, the burr is forced into the piece you are cutting and the bit has to work through this material which is as hard as the bit itself. This instantly dulls your new edge a bit the first time you use it. Do this with newly purchased cheap end mills as well. You can use Scotchbrite. Just wrap the Scotchbrite around the end mill and pull it through a few times.

 

[rlitman]

I tried sharpening bits with a grinding stone but I can't get it right. It's a skill I need to put more time into learning.

Even if you own a DD, it's a good skill to have. I've fixed a few broken bits, and it pays to pre-sharpen them first, so you don't kill your DD wheel.
It's much easier to do this on a belt grinder than a wheel though, and while I've used a bunch of the sharpening jigs out there, the DD (and the Darex, which really works the same way) is the only thing I've found that can do it better than eyeballing it.

I haven't really had issues with bits going dull faster after sharpening.
HSS needs to be heated to a dull red before it loses its temper. Cobalt alloys can get even hotter. That's why they're such good cutting steels.
The sharpening will not affect their temper.

Drill bits do get a differential temper, with the shank being softer, but on my cobalt set, you can see the color change, and it's just behind the flutes.
Perhaps on cheaper TiN bits, they just harden the tip. I don't really know.

 

[brownbagg]

mine is a piece of ****, there has to be a better way to sharpen drill bit

 

[Brad1234]

We have one where I work because not everyone is willing to learn to sharpen by hand. I think that i can sharpen them better & faster by hand but the Drill Doctor does do a good job. Back in the 80's my high school industrial teacher wouldn't let us use a drill bit till we could sharpen it to his satisfaction. Best teacher I ever had. I've been sharpening them by hand ever since & I'm a toolmaker so i use the every day.

 

[Andy Griffith]

I have been able to sharpen wood paddle/spade bits also.

Do you have the model that has the spade bit attachment or are you able to sharpen spade bits on the regular Drill D model?

 

[isaac338]

am I the only one that sharpens "manually" with a typical bench grinder?

I use the bench grinder to sharpen drills that are too big to fit in my drill doctor..

The thing I really like about the drill doctor is if you break a drill, you can just run it through the machine a few times and grind a new point on it. Instant screw machine length drill!

 

[paranoid56]

i love my DD. bought the extra collar for the larger bits and man, this thing has saved my **** many times. i too do not have the skill for manually sharpening bits so this was my only option. its worked every time.

 

[olytdi]

This thread reminded me that I bought a DD last year and haven't even opened it yet. Excellent!

You bastards are making my to-do list longer not shorter!! HA!

 

[Jagmandave]

mine is a piece of ****, there has to be a better way to sharpen drill bit

I wouldn't go so far as to say that, but I agree that there has to be a better way.

I've had mine for over 10 years, and watched the video time and again, studied the tiny little instruction pages, set it up carefully, and almost everytime the bit came out wrong - either the flutes were flat or going the wrong way! How is that possible? I called the MFR (who was very helpful and cooperative BTW) and they asked that I send the bit holders in to them to check. Sure enough, one of them was mismanufactured, so they sent me two new ones (one for small bits and one for up to 3/4")

Since then I can say I have moderate success, but it's sure not the easy peasy 1-2-3 done that they and most of you guys say it is.

 

[Steve_P]

I've had one for 10+ yrs and truly consider it 1-2-3 easy. I sharpened bits on a belt sander before I got the DD and could get decent results, but I was nowhere near as consistant as the drill doctor. This thread comes up a lot here and there are always several posts that say they can rival machine shapening via free-hand, but there's just no way you can do this consistantly; they're not sharpening free-hand in the drill bit factory.

 

[A**holes Garage]

I had two. Used them to sharpen up my few bits that needed it. Shelved them both.

Bits don't stay sharp and I can buy cheapie drill sets at Harbor Freights bits to replace them with less hassle and lasts longer.

 

[wayne55]

I have one of the older models that sharpen up to 3/4". I have good luck with it sometimes and sometimes I can't get the relief part of the bit right, as the heel is higher than the cutting edge. I then play with how I put the bit in the chuck to get it to grind the bit correctly. Just wanted to relate my experience. I have watched the videos and even talked to them in customer service about using it, but still sometimes using it is hit or miss for me.

 

[Jagmandave]

Wayne, that's the exact experience I was having, sometimes I could rotate the bit in the chuck and I'd get a good result, other times, it was just flat wrong. Very frustrating.

You're supposed to rotate the bit in the chuck till the flats hit the ends of the little spring device - when I sent my chucks back to the mfr they said the were made wrong and replaced them, as I no longer had the originals to compare I din't know how to tell you what to look for, but the new ones worked better, but still not 100%

I will say this, when I managed to get one sharpened correctly, it was a joy to use!

 

[E.Marquez]

I had two. Used them to sharpen up my few bits that needed it. Shelved them both.

Bits don't stay sharp and I can buy cheapie drill sets at Harbor Freights bits to replace them with less hassle and lasts longer.

1: I never met a clearance priced drill bit I didn't like But I use um for drill bits, hardened pins, alignment pins, and may other things.

2: True they do not stay as sharp as a tin coated drill, but just as long as a cheap black oxide bit.

3: Time = Money and hassle, plus gas to drive to a HB and get cheap bits that last no longer then a properly sharpened one by a DD. IMHO

4: At 2300 when all stores have been closed for hours, being able to walk over to my DD and sharpen a bit, so I can drill those last few holes in a project...Priceless

Had a DD going on 6 years now, have used it successfully to sharpen hundreds of bits. The spring metal clamps to properly position the bit in the chuck for are starting to get a bit sprung.. But after 6 years... I'll pony up for a new DD and feel just fine about my investment.

 

[shopnut]

Does the Drill Doctor work? – I would have to answer Yes and No.

I was taught how to sharpen a drill bit in high school shop class manually on a bench grinder and had been doing it that way for the last 30 years with good results. We have an old DareX sharpener at work and I was really impressed with way it ground the correct profile onto the bits. Then I watched the video from DD and saw it looked like the same type of motion to grind the bits so I decided to pop for a DD 750X when a good deal came around ($125 delivered)

After living with it for a while, I have to say it does a decent job on the larger drill bits (1/4” and bigger). It gets them real sharp, but I have noticed the relief angle is very minimal compared to what I was taught to grind it (approx 12 degrees). I guess I can live with it since they seem to drill in metal just fine. I’m really not happy with the results on the smaller bits, however, mainly because I’ve seen zero or negative relief angles. It is really finicky how the bit is chucked up and the smaller the bit, the tougher it is.

So here’s my compromise…
I decided the best solution for me is to buy the small bits in bulk and just chuck them when they get dull. The expensive big bits will be sharpened repeatedly on the DD. Lowes had a 50% off deal on a pack of small Skil bits for the holidays – a pack of 100 for $12 (Skil #45102) so I bought a pack for each of my shops. In a pinch, I still can sharpen the smaller bits on the DD.

 

[lsrx101]

I've known guys that could sharpen even very small bits on a bench grinder in just a few seconds. I really hate those guys.
I was taught how to manually sharpen a bit many years ago in school but could never really develop a "feel" for it. (Same with my welding skills.).

I ran into the same issue with the Drill Doctor. I practiced a bit on a DD belonging to a friend with dismal results. He could sharpen bits quite nicely with it. He was a body man/painter and not much of a "mechanic", so it sure wasn't the fault of the tool. I really wish I could blame it on the tool, though.

I'd like to buy a DD and learn how to use it correctly. By most accounts that I've heard and experienced, it's a good investment. I think it's very likely that many "bad" reviews for the DD are based on user error or misunderstanding of how to use it.

I would "really" like to be able to walk a drill bit up to a bench grinder and sharpen it, but...

 

[Cars&Classic]

I see a lot of different models, I am thinking of buying as well. any thoughts on the good or bad of the different models?

 

[Falcon67]

This is probably the first DD thread I've read that was mostly pro for the device. The reviews on the home machinist sites is generally poor. And not just because the old timers can do it by hand. It apparently does OK if the chuck is set just right, but in some cases the plastic isn't as precise as it may need to be. I wanted one for my old uncoated steel bits, did a lot of research on them and still can't make myself buy one. As noted, I can get a full set of coated bits at HF for $20 on sale. My experience with the HF bits is that with proper speed, feed and lubrication they last a long time in a home shop. Replacements are cheap enough that a dull or broken bit just hits the trash.

 

[eddyyy302]

I have a drill doctor that I use frequently, I am also proficient in hand sharpening bits, but I find the drill doctor is fool proof and works very well, so much so that I bought some as christmas gifts this year!

I sent an offer to the OP, but if anyone in this thread is looking to buy a drill DR. I have a couple of extra XP2's that I purchased as christmas gifts but had too many. I will sell them for $55 plus shipping, they are brand new, in box. PM me, I can send pics etc.

Dan

 

[A_Pmech]

 

[darkzero]

I've been wanting to get a 750X. Since they have a diamond wheel, do these work well with solid carbide drills, say at 135deg?