Drill Dr Model 400 help

[sgrammel]

Anybody use a Drill Dr model 400 or similar? Question I have is on small/short bits. During the alignment step you have to turn the bit to the right so it engages in the narrow part of the bit. Easy to do on bigger/longer bits..on the small/short bits I can't grab the end of the bit in the chuck. I have tried needle nose pliers..which sort of works..but wondering if anybody has a better idea?

I sent a question to the DD help desk..the basically said on the model 400 you can't sharpen smaller bits..which seems dumb..

 

[Schurkey]

They would know.

Sharpen a larger bit. Is there any back-clearance? The company I worked for sent hundreds of drill bits a week out for "resharpening". At some point, they found a "less expensive" sharpening service.

The bits came back worthless. No back clearance. Bits would get hot, had to be pushed HARD to cut anything. The bit geometry was just BAD. I could sharpen them by hand, on any random 6 or 8 inch grinding wheel better than they could. So I did, and didn't share "my" bits with others.

The company's answer to this was to just discard any used bit smaller than a certain size; and we scrapped hundreds of 11/64 bits a month, plus everything up to...1/4", I think.

 

[IndyGarage]

I don't have a dd400, but I have a smaller model and I think they work the same.

The trick to the drill doctor is to get the bit exactly right in the chuck both in stickout length and rotation, and the trick to that is to grab it correctly with the two "teeth" in the setup fixture.

My method is this - clamp the bit in the chuck then stick it into the setup hole. Loosen the chuck very slightly until the bit just moves, then push it forward until it touches the back of the setup hole then slowly rotate it until the "teeth" are holding the flutes of the bit (the smallest part) then tighten up the chuck. If you learn to do this correctly, then I've gotten very good sharpenings from the drill doctor.

If you don't do it correctly the drill doctor is junk.

 

[sgrammel]

I don't have a dd400, but I have a smaller model and I think they work the same.

The trick to the drill doctor is to get the bit exactly right in the chuck both in stickout length and rotation, and the trick to that is to grab it correctly with the two "teeth" in the setup fixture.

My method is this - clamp the bit in the chuck then stick it into the setup hole. Loosen the chuck very slightly until the bit just moves, then push it forward until it touches the back of the setup hole then slowly rotate it until the "teeth" are holding the flutes of the bit (the smallest part) then tighten up the chuck. If you learn to do this correctly, then I've gotten very good sharpenings from the drill doctor.

If you don't do it correctly the drill doctor is junk.

The 'it' you refer to is the bit I assume as the chuck is locked by the tabs....I can't move the bit because it is short and a deep inside the chuck..That's the issue I am trying to resolve. It's straightforward as you describe if you can move the bit to grab the teeth...

 

[dscheidt]

The 'it' you refer to is the bit I assume as the chuck is locked by the tabs....I can't move the bit because it is short and a deep inside the chuck..That's the issue I am trying to resolve. It's straightforward as you describe if you can move the bit to grab the teeth...

Yes, the design leaves a lot to be desired. The pliers is what I've done, it's a pain, but using the thing is such a pain, it's never bothered to me.

 

[sgrammel]

So I broke down...I read the manual ...and found this.

"Short Drill Bits

Often bits smaller than 1/8" in diameter are so short they will

not stick out of the back of the Chuck. After inserting a small bit

into the Chuck and while holding the Alignment Button in, insert

the Chuck into the Alignment Hole. Then, insert a finger into the

back of the Chuck Knob and push the bit forward against the

Drill Stop. Look through the Window and make sure the Bit

Clamps grasp the bit at the narrowest point when you release

the Alignment Button."

So it sounds like you give it a little wiggle with your finger rather than turning the bit for bits that are long enough...

 

[IndyGarage]

The 'it' you refer to is the bit I assume as the chuck is locked by the tabs....I can't move the bit because it is short and a deep inside the chuck..That's the issue I am trying to resolve. It's straightforward as you describe if you can move the bit to grab the teeth...

So I broke down...I read the manual ...and found this.

"Short Drill Bits

Often bits smaller than 1/8" in diameter are so short they will

not stick out of the back of the Chuck. After inserting a small bit

into the Chuck and while holding the Alignment Button in, insert

the Chuck into the Alignment Hole. Then, insert a finger into the

back of the Chuck Knob and push the bit forward against the

Drill Stop. Look through the Window and make sure the Bit

Clamps grasp the bit at the narrowest point when you release

the Alignment Button."

So it sounds like you give it a little wiggle with your finger rather than turning the bit for bits that are long enough...

Exactly right. Once you loosen the bit in the chuck you can push it into the stop with the tip of your finger and if it is a small bit you can rotate it with the tip of your finger also. You just have to make sure it stays in the proper orientation when you tighten the chuck. If it doesn't you won't get a good sharp bit. If it does, the Drill Dr. works perfectly.

The only other thing to do is to try and grind both sides of the bit an equal number of times at an equal speed. You'll feel that both sides are grinding the same amount. i've actually ground broken off bits to a point again with the Drill Doctor and they work fine. .

 

[mikegt4]

I don't have a dd400, but I have a smaller model and I think they work the same.

The trick to the drill doctor is to get the bit exactly right in the chuck both in stickout length and rotation, and the trick to that is to grab it correctly with the two "teeth" in the setup fixture.

My method is this - clamp the bit in the chuck then stick it into the setup hole. Loosen the chuck very slightly until the bit just moves, then push it forward until it touches the back of the setup hole then slowly rotate it until the "teeth" are holding the flutes of the bit (the smallest part) then tighten up the chuck. If you learn to do this correctly, then I've gotten very good sharpenings from the drill doctor.

If you don't do it correctly the drill doctor is junk.

That is how I set up "small" bits (actually all bits) in my DD750X. I also agree on following DD's sharpening instructions to the letter or it won't work properly. I'll be the first to admit that I have to re-read the instructions from time to time and usually find that I failed to do some seemingly small step when I had a problem with the results. Overall I have been very happy with the results from my DD which I have owned for probably 20 years.

 

[dnschmidt]

My view on the drill doctor are well known. SCRAP IT!

 

[zendriver]

Seems to be one of those tools either hated it or you use it successively

not much in between

I’ve used mine four times in about six or seven years with results being sharp drill bits

I don’t even know what I was doing, right

 

[Renegade1LI]

I coulld never get good results with DD, I picked up this one from vevor & it is so much easier to use.

VEVOR MR-13B Drill Bits Sharpener, 3-13mm Drill Bits Grinder Sharpener, Lip Relief Angle & 95°-135° Point Angle Adjustable Drill Bit Re-Sharpener, Portable Sharpening Machine with 11 Collets, CBN & SDC Wheel | VEVOR US

VEVOR Drill Bits Sharpener offers high-precision sharpening with adjustable angles, powerful DC motor, and versatile grinding wheels for various materials.

www.vevor.com

 

[IndyGarage]

My view on the drill doctor are well known. SCRAP IT!

If you owned one and couldn't get it to work well, I can pretty much assure you it was user error.

Seems to be one of those tools either hated it or you use it successively

not much in between

I’ve used mine four times in about six or seven years with results being sharp drill bits

I don’t even know what I was doing, right

I've felt both sides of that. When I first got my DD, I couldn't get a good bit out of it at all. I almost gave up.

Then I watched a couple videos and read the instructions, and learned the trick of the device, which I describe above. Once you know and figure out to set up the bit in the chuck correctly, the DD is almost magic. I usually save up my bits and once a year or so sharpen all of them at once. And they all work very well afterward.

I can't think of any other tool which produces great results when used correctly and terrible results if not.

 

[Oregon Dave]

Have had a Drill Doctor for 25+ years; have spoken by phone to the company - rate their customer service 10 out of 10; borderline leb’m.

Have sharpened hundreds of twist drill bits for ferrous metals for myself, neighbors, friends and relatives; always use a cutting/tap fluid properly when drilling.

My and all other users opinions are that Drill Doctor sharpened bits cut better than new bits.

So I totally agree with IndyGarage’s comments:
1. If you owned one and couldn't get it to work well, I can pretty much assure you it was user error.
2. I can't think of any other tool which produces great results when used correctly and terrible results if not.

A few tips that some users may find helpful.

The bit holder grips/registers on the flute of the drill bit (this can and should be observed with the bit holder out of the machine) and is meant to position the tip of the bit against the machines back-stop and securely tightened. The bit projection will therefore be a function of helix angle and bit diameter.

The machine works great for standard helix angles ~30°; works less great to horrible, as expected, as the helix angle is varied.

Proper bit registry is crucial; try tightening the chuck in two steps. First tighten to a ‘slip-fit’, ensuring the flutes are in the grip properly, next hold the tip against the back-stop and final tighten.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Not to derail your thread, but I sure wish someone would come up with an adapter that allows sharpening hex shank bits!

 

[Oregon Dave]

Not to derail your thread, but I sure wish someone would come up with an adapter that allows sharpening hex shank bits!

The tool's chuck grips the flute; hex shank is not a factor. This is a very good tool; at least my 25+ year old machine, does require some measure of mechanical aptitude - am on 3rd replacement diamond stone.

If they have 'cheapened' the newer models; older ones, hardly used, are pretty available from owners yet to figure out how to use them properly.

 

[Nutria]

I like my DD well enough, but not for drills 3/16" or smaller. I'm impressed with folks who use it successfully with smaller drills.

 

[Oregon Dave]

I like my DD well enough, but not for drills 3/16" or smaller. I'm impressed with folks who use it successf

 

[Jeff Ivers]

The tool's chuck grips the flute; hex shank is not a factor. This is a very good tool; at least my 25+ year old machine, does require some measure of mechanical aptitude - am on 3rd replacement diamond stone.

What you say is true on larger bits. The most common bit that I would like to sharpen is a 1/8" hex shank and the shortness of the bit results in the hex part being engaged by the grips and preventing the bit from being sharpened. Not knocking the tool - I love my model 700, but would like to be able to resharpen the 1/8 inch hex shank.