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Drill Grinding Attachment
- Thread starter Guffster
- Start date
That style has been around for decades, Outlaw sent me one from the 60's made for Craftsman. I can't say I've tried it yet but one day when I get some time, I plan to sit down with my drawer full of bits to sharpen and separate them into my index boxes. Post up your results when you try it out!
jakemac
Well-known member
Same here.
TomB19
Well-known member
I have one of those. It looks like it would work great but does not work for intended use.
I can do way better freehand. I've actually gotten decent at freehand grinding but stopped practicing when I picked up a Drill Doctor.
I can do way better freehand. I've actually gotten decent at freehand grinding but stopped practicing when I picked up a Drill Doctor.
Packard V8
Well-known member
That attachment has been around for more than fifty years. I see them at garage sales for $5.
I've used one for many years and it does a good job. Like any other machine tool, the operator is half the success of the operation.
Yes, the Drill Doctor 750 sharpens better, if one knows how to use it. But then, my Sanders industrial drill sharpening machine does a better job than a DD on any drills larger than 1/4". A Cincinnati tool grinder does the best sharpening job, but it weighs 5,000# and needs a 4'x4' footprint.
jack vines
I've used one for many years and it does a good job. Like any other machine tool, the operator is half the success of the operation.
Yes, the Drill Doctor 750 sharpens better, if one knows how to use it. But then, my Sanders industrial drill sharpening machine does a better job than a DD on any drills larger than 1/4". A Cincinnati tool grinder does the best sharpening job, but it weighs 5,000# and needs a 4'x4' footprint.
jack vines
Like any other machine tool, the operator is half the success of the operation.
jack vines
Lets repeat the above, half the success is the operator. If you do not understand the geometry of a drill bit and can tell a good one from a improperly sharpened one then your going to come back and tell us it is a piece of junk. Do not expect to affix that to your grinding station and go into business. It will take a few hours of work to get all the settings correct and then you can sharpen bits.
Good luck
lg
no neat sig line
TomB19
Well-known member
Yes, the Drill Doctor 750 sharpens better, if one knows how to use it.
The DD 750X makes drill sharpening effortless and it does a great job. I think the instructional video is less than 5 minutes. For cheap bits, they end up far sharper than new. For good quality bits, they end up as sharp as new.
The down side to the DD is it does not remove material as quickly as a bench grinder. As bits get close to 1/2", it takes a long time to remove much material. If the bit is chipped or damaged, you're going to be there a while. In that case, I hand sharpen at the grinder.
DD recommends a 100x stone for larger bits. I wouldn't bother swapping and I like the finish from the 180x stone so I just run 180x wheels. You could have a second DD set up with a 100x stone but that would run quite a bit of money. It would probably be worth it for some shops.
That jig holds the bit at a single angle. The chisel angle and primary bevel require two different angles. That means the jig will have to be re-set to do different operations. Factory sharpened bits have geometry that is more complex than two angles. The DD approximates a factory sharpening without re-setting.
I'd rather free hand sharpen, than use one of those jigs. I'm sure I could do a reasonably good job sharping a bit with that jig but a bit only costs so much and, therefore, only justifies so much time.
I think it's great that everyone has their own way of doing things but to suggest that jig is better than a DD suggests you should learn twist drill geometry.
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