Drill Press Advice Needed

[likes68Cs]

I have a 17-600 Rockwell Delta Drill Press built in 1970 that I bought from a Joint Vocational School several years ago. The drill press has been abused. It is equipped with a Jacobs 1/2" chuck with the male Jacobs taper on the spindle. The chuck is held on by the captive threaded locknut. The male Jacobs taper on the spindle is galled (see photo), but the chuck taper is OK. It cannot drill a straight line very well. I purchased bearings for the quill thinking that may help the runout problem, but have yet to put them in.
I use the drill press very infrequently for my old car hobby, but would like to use it more. I recently bought a counterboring set of tools but these require a Morse taper setup in the quill. I thought I could just get an adapter between the Morse taper and the chuck but was advised against that idea.
I discussed this recently with a person who sells tools and tooling that I could switch out the Jacobs chuck setup for a Morse taper setup for about $200. He also said I could get a used Jacobs setup with a better male Jacobs taper for about the same cost. He also said the value of my drill press is about $200. (I think I paid over $300 for it about 15 years ago).
I could use some advice on how to approach this problem. Would a Morse taper setup be more expensive in the long run (tooling cost)? Is this worth repairing the Jacobs chuck setup? Or should I just sell the whole works and make room in my shop. Besides this drill press I only have a small Atlas lathe which also has a problem turning an accurate diameter (babbit main bearings). Thanks in advance for useful input.

 

[RoninB4]

I have a 17-600 Rockwell Delta Drill Press built in 1970 that I bought from a Joint Vocational School several years ago. The drill press has been abused.

-Yeah that taper has been chewed a bit and looks like it has some raised metal on it. I'm an advocate of repairing what you have because it usually (not always) costs less for repair than replacement. Couple of questions:

1) How comfortable are you with using a small hand stone like a medium India? Do you have one?
2) Have you evaluated the surface condition of the taper itself? Has the taper been altered with a well meaning, but poorly chosen, file?
3) Do you want to keep the DP if this can be repaired or do you just want a replacement DP? Is it in good working order?
4) Are you familiar with lapping something in?
5) Describe what you will do and what tooling you'll use in this DP? What are your expectations for it?

-My supposition is that if the taper can be brought to a more original condition it might just drill a straighter hole. There's several other reasons your holes may be off but let's start with one thing at a time.

 

[308guru]

Yes, the male taper is pretty rough. That's not always a show stopper though.

Did you measure runout yet or how did you determine you needed bearings? Start there and see what you get.

You might think your chuck is "good" or appears in good shape, but could (also) be contributing to excessive runout at the bit. Some people think they can really side load and/or mill with drill chucks and that ruins them pretty quick.

Start be determining where the problem is and then figure out options.

 

[likes68Cs]

Thanks for your replies. I do have a few hand stones. I have a rectangular one for chisels and sharpening knives. I also have a hand stone which is circular and has a coarse side and a fine side--it is brand new, never used. I have not examined the taper closely--I am not even sure if it is part of the spindle or is a replaceable Jacobs taper within the spindle. The rest of the drill press is in fair working order. It does need a new ball crank handle for the table elevation. I am somewhat familiar with lapping something, but I don't have any lapping compound. I bought a counterboring outfit that is set up for Morse tapers, but I may sell it if I can't adapt it to the Jacobs chuck setup or if the Morse taper arrangement is too costly long term.

 

[matt_i]

I feel like all you need to do is remove any raised burrs from the male taper to make it "lock" again. You can probably find those with your fingertips.

A gentle pry bar against something solidly clamped to the table should show you what's wrong. It could be the tapers shifting if it's not seated on full contact or could be the spindle bearings.

One way to check contact is to color the male taper with a sharpie marker, then give the chuck a light twist and scrub under hand pressure. You should be able to visualize contact after that. Rubbing alcohol will remove the sharpie and prepare the tapers for seating if you are ready.

I like to back the chuck jaws inside the body and give it a solid thump from your biggest deadblow hammer. Make sure to put the extraction ring on first....

 

[woody 73]

Ouch I hear your pain big time, I paid a king's ransom big time for a new Powermatic DP, mind you never abused and I think I must have replaced every part you can imagine. It's like flipping a coin and taking your chances for finding replacement parts. To top it off the darn thing was built in America before they all went too China. I don't know what to tell you, it's kind of like throwing all your money down a deep rabbit hole and hoping it will get fixed again.

Keep your eyes opened for another used one, with any luck you might be able to see it running before you buy it. Good luck if you choose to repair your model.