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Drill press capacities- advise me

Zengineer

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Apr 10, 2010
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British Columbia, Canada
You guys have to be joking with some of these equipment suggestions. It's 500 of these things, not 500,000.

Just get a decent floor drill press, cut it down if you absolutely must have it on a bench top, and go from there. +1 to carbide forsner bit, a sharp tool will save you a lot of headache and prevent slippage as well.
 
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James-W

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You guys have to be joking with some of these equipment suggestions. It's 500 of these things, not 500,000.

Just get a decent floor drill press, cut it down if you absolutely must have it on a bench top, and go from there. +1 to carbide forsner bit, a sharp tool will save you a lot of headache and prevent slippage as well.
That's not really true. It is 500 for the time being, but in post 16 it says that the company he is making these things for needs about 2,000 of them per year, this being the first batch. The opening poster also says that he has the contract (the company he works for does) so I guess he will be making about 2,000 of these things every year, possibly more if they sell really well.
 

BikerDad

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The OP has an interesting set of requirements, most of which aren't too difficult to satisfy. Except for one. "Benchtop". Were I him, I would ditch that right off the bat. A floor standing drill press can have a roll away cart built under it, giving the storage one has with a "benchtop" drill press (while the DP is ON the bench), as well as the storage still there the rest of the time, all in an OVERALL footprint no larger than a benchtop and the cabinet it lives in. The full size DP's tend to be more powerful as well.

That said, another option that is also pretty modest in size requirements is a small mill/drill. They have lots of torque, no belts to slip, etc. For THIS job, they'd be pretty darn good. However, they're pretty limited by their throat depth and spindle travel, so they aren't as flexible with other wood drilling as a regular drill press. Something that may be even better for this job is a hinge boring machine. IF you can get one that can handle a 2" bit. I don't know if such exist or not, but the cups of european hinges are basically what he's drilling, just 2" instead of 1 3/8". Such machines aren't cheap, but they are DESIGNED for production. One trick pony's, but my oh my they are really good at their trick. And not too large either.

Given that he's already worked out most of his jigging, I'd just say "go for the HF 3/4hp for now". If it does the trick, great. If it dies in the process, but does a decent job until it dies, then fine, use that warranty, finish the job with another. He'll have about 25 hours into drilling the holes. Not what I would call fun, but if he can make money at it and build his biz, then good.
 
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tarbellb

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Its true, I am walking a thin line right now between what I need now to get the first batch done and what I would like for the long term.

Excellent point about the bench top requirement Bikerdad, I like the idea of having it mobile so building a cart for bench top would be nice. But the mobile cart under the drill is a cool idea.

As of now, we are about 150 trays (600 pockets) into the job with the HF 3/4hp 13" model.

It does a pretty good job of getting through the material, I cant just go full bore into it, but honestly I hammer down pretty good and it does fine. We have to tighten the belts each time we fire it up...... and it smells like rubber after about 30 pockets.

I will post pics of the new drill press table I made for it, I call it the Mothership. Its huge!
 

dutchgray

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Better quality belts, I bet the standard belt is about as bad as they come.
I know my English made 1/2hp would do 2" no problem.
 
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Murphy4570

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Murphy4570..... are you f'n with me right now. Did you really just post a 20,000lb machine for me to consider on this job?

Its late, and I am enjoying the responses. Many of them helpful and similar to what I would be advising as well, but this is starting to feel like a set up.

I said it was an option. I didn't say it was a good one unless you are:

A. Going for maximum overkill
B. Want to bid on machining work in the future
C. Just love having big *** machines that make big *** holes

I just wanted you to be aware of what was out there. Hell, I didn't know a radial drill press even existed until I was hired at a machine shop! I absolutely LOVE using the things! Power feed, unlimited power! You will NOT stall these things out! They will either break the drill bit clean in half, or if you fail to clamp down the part you are drilling, you'll swing it around. 1/2" or 4 1/2" drill bit, all the same to these things.

Also keep in mind that used machine equipment generally goes for DIRT CHEAP when it is both overly LARGE and HEAVY, as well as exclusively being three phase power. Rigging and electrical requirements generally make such equipment go for pennies on the dollar at auctions or used machine tool equipment houses.
 
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tarbellb

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Hell yeah! I love A, B, and C.

Ill keep checking my resources for a quality machine.
 

speed bump

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Butte Montana
In your situation I would invest a good method of extracting cuttings. Drilling blind holes without a good way pull out cuttings is going to be hard on the tooling. Power wise a 3/4 HP drill press should be more than enough for woodworking.

Since we also are throwing out the buy ridiculous equipment options: CNC router and an indexing jig. Install every board in the jig on a centering mark (indexing off the center takes care of the required dimensional weirdness), hit go, knock out the step before or after this step for another table worth lf parts.
 

zkling

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If you are serious about this, your best bet is to build a custom machine with a stand alone geared head drill motor. Could easily be a bench top unit, electric or pneumatic, the pull of one lever does multiple operations. Align based off the end or the previous hole, clamp and then finally drill the hole. Think of a mag drill type setup. Super common in production. Most large power and air tool manufactures sell separate drill motors and spindles for such applications. Much easier and cheaper than you may think.

A standard knee mill is a poor choice for this. CNC router would be good if you could fixture multiple up at a time. Making a router sled could work, depending on how cupped they are, again the fixturing is going to be the difficult part.
 
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tarbellb

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As promised, update:

After my first production run of 500 I learned a few things.

1) HF drill presses flex and break... a lot.

2) Barrel staves are not fun to work with, dirty, awkward, and Oak is super hard.

3) Carbide tipped forstners are amazing.

Since last posting things have improved. I bought a super nice 1970's Delta/Rockwell 17" DP that hogs out material with no issues so far. Upgraded to a cheap Chinese carbide tipped forstner bit like this one -http://www.ebay.com/itm/Durable-Forstner-Auger-Drill-Bits-Woodworking-Cutter-Boring-Hole-Saw-15mm-50mm-/322557742187?hash=item4b19f08c6b

Wow, so much better then my Austrian made Freud wave edge forstner bit or any of the others I tried for that matter. The Freud may give a slightly nicer finish hole but the speed and cut quality of the cheaper carbide tipped version is best for my application.

I also made some simple jigs and fixtures to aid in the process. I thought a table jig for getting everything lined up and pocketed was going to be a major pain but really I just set the depth and make sure to layout my holes carefully. No real jig to speak of, but for the chips I had to make this table for clearing chips, so many wood chips, literally bags and bags.

One of the worst parts of the process is cleaning up the charcoal from the inside face, it requires 4.5" grinder with a wire wheel, followed by a orbital sander. Holding them in place while doing this is problematic, so I came up with another fixture to hold them. I am about to test it, but so far it seems adequate.

Finally I found a Transpower contour sanding machine. Pretty rad really, uses a pneumatic drum that can be adjust for different contours. Im going to test it out for this next run, but I can already tell it is better then my 6" belt sander.

A few pics-

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ipunfa.jpg


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