To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Drill Press Clamps/Stop

zmotorsports

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,436
Location
Northern Utah
I sold my 15" Wilton drill press last week and replaced it with a 20" Jet. Both were floor models but the 15" Wilton had a small table with the four slots that were machined and went all the way through. My new Jet has a much larger table and does not have the through slots, just the "T" slots like a mill table. At first I thought to myself this is going to be a bigger negative than it actually turned out to be.

I am used to using a small drill press vise and merely locking/wedging it against the column of the drill press to keep from spinning or rotating out of my hands for safety. Well with the larger throat on the 20" drill press the vise now is further away from the column. Last night I had to drill a few holes for a small repair that I was doing and it got the better of me, I decided to address this and come up with a solution.

About six years ago I had picked up a couple of the 4" Vise Grip brand half locking clamps that have the large washer and wingnut on the bottom. These are designed to drop through the 1/2" or 5/8" slots in the drill press table and put the wingnut on from the bottom, you can then clamp your work or the vise against the table. I have used them alot and they work great. However, now with the "T" slots on the new larger table they wouldn't work. I almost let them go with the drill press when I sold it because the guy that bought my 15" Wilton was admiring them but for the price I sold the drill press there was no way I was going to give the clamps away.

I did not want to keep using the "T" nuts, blocks and clamps like I use for my mill table merely because the setup time to drill a quick hole made it too slow of a process. I wanted something that would quickly lock the workpiece down safely. My experience has been if it is quick and simple it is more likely to be used on a regular basis, if it takes too long to setup then there will be a time when it is not used and that will be the one that bites you in the ***. I came up with a quick solution and thought I would pass it along just in case someone else has a similar issue.

I machined two spacers that were the depth and width of the "T" slots plus a few thousands so they would slide through the "T" channels with relative ease. I used a piece of 3/4" cold rolled round bar and machined a step down to .580" so it would slide in the .590" wide channel. I then drilled and tapped the pieces to accomodate the 1/2-13 thread of the half clamp.

Here is one of the pieces threaded and ready to install next to the other clamp which already has the part installed.
dfy5tw.jpg


Here is the clamp slid in place in the "T" slot and ready to clamp the workpiece down.
2hxbya1.jpg


While I was at it I also machined a stop that would slide into the "T" channel merely to lock the part against or the vise, not necessarily to lock it to the table just to keep it from spinning if the bit grabs.

This piece is machined so the groove will snugly fit and you can just slide it to the position you want and then the work will lock against it.
wcbw54.jpg


Here it is in the "T" slot.
a1n7zk.jpg


Mike.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
Z

zmotorsports

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,436
Location
Northern Utah
I posted this on the "New Tool Arrival" thread yesterday but I thought I would throw it up here as well.

My son and I are a little taller than the average person whom most of the shop equipment is built to fit. I am 6'2" and my son is 6'5" so when standing at a standard height drill press we are always hunched over or feel like we should kneel down. On my last drill press I raised the column 6" after owning it for a few years and putting up with the low chuck/table.

On my new 20" Jet I didn't want to wait so I raised it immediately after getting it.

Here is the drill press set up Friday night and slid into position. This is actually a pretty nice drill press. The one thing that I have heard about these is the quality of the drill chuck. On my old 15" Wilton I replaced the drill chuck with a 1/2" Jacobs so I did the same on this one except I ordered a 5/8" capacity Jacobs ball bearing chuck at the same time as I ordered the drill press.
24ovryq.jpg


Here is a piece of 4" O.D. x 5" x.250" wall tubing that I am truing on the lathe.
5cccar.jpg


Here are two pieces 7" in diameter x .500" thick to bring the total spacer to 6" overall height. Drilled to the same bolt pattern as the drill press base to column.
bhnl2r.jpg


Everything welded together.
21cypme.jpg


I used some textured black paint so it would match the color and finish of the drill press.
oaq4rd.jpg


Completed and ready to drill holes. Originally out of the box the drill press had a drill chuck height of 57", now it sits right at 63" which is perfect.
2mydkcj.jpg


Mike.
 
OP
Z

zmotorsports

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,436
Location
Northern Utah
Why not build a base under it :)


We actually raised out one at work by fabricating a 4" riser by welding several 4" square tube pieces together but in my opinion it seemed to have taken some of the stability away. Ours at work will rock once in a while. This seemed to be the best option to keep the base in contact with the floor. I can also still bolt it through the original base if I ever want to. This thing is rock solid now so I don't see myself bolting it down.

Mike.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

justanengineer

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 5, 2011
Messages
7,722
Location
Motor City
Great work! One suggestion tho simply bc I am rather OCD about preventing possible machinery damage - you may want to make/locate/buy a few proper T-nuts for those clamps. Admittedly, the clamping force applied by those is rather small compared to a regular strap clamp set like on a mill, but your adapters are pulling on a pretty tiny surface area inside the slot, and the inside of T-slots do get dinged and stretched regularly. IMHO there is nothing worse than fighting to push T-nuts through a slot thats all buggered up inside.
 
Last edited:
OP
Z

zmotorsports

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,436
Location
Northern Utah
Great work! One suggestion tho simply bc I am rather OCD about preventing possible machinery damage - you may want to make/locate/buy a few proper T-nuts for those clamps. Admittedly, the clamping force applied by those is rather small compared to a regular strap clamp set like on a mill, but your adapters are pulling on a pretty tiny surface area inside the slot, and the inside of T-slots do get dinged and stretched regularly. IMHO there is nothing worse than fighting to push T-nuts through a slot thats all buggered up inside.

I have to agree. Proper T-Nuts will go a long way in preserving the slots from dinging.:thumbup:


Thanks guys. I actully have an assortment of "T" nuts from my mill and will use them when the force demands. However, if you look closely at the half vise grips though, you can see the force is not linear. It does not pull straight up on the small machined part. It rather side loads or ***** in the channel more than pull on it. This is why I machined the step only a few thousands smaller than the channel, so it will lodge itself in when the clamp is compressed rather than pull up on the underside of the channel. The channel is about .440" thick where it contacts the part and then the void under the channel is about .400". My first prototype was just a straight pin with the 1/3-13 machined into it and it just stuck straight down into the channel and when the clamp was tightened it side loaded and locked the clamp. However, I felt a little extra security by having the step machined and grabbing the channel from the underside would be better.

I used the hell out of it last night doing some drilling and so far they are working great. The biggest reason I didn't just use a "T" nut is by using something round I am able to rotate the pliers 360* and still have the threaded part the same distance/tolerance from the table rather than have to slide the "T" nut in then tighten it and try to position the clamp where I need it. Speed and securing the part were the two drivers for this design vs. merely using standard "T" nuts.

Hey Nasty, looks like you have a little snow there eh?

Mike.
 

hunter1151

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
202
Location
Kansas
I always think when I see a drill press thread, why hasn't anyone come up with a foot switch that you plug your drill press into.........the safety of it alone you would think would drive someone to sell them. Not that they would be hard to build......but anyone who has had a drill press grab a piece and fling it across the shop or had a drill start slipping in the chuck and has to decide to let go of something to turn off the switch when you could lift your foot off the switch with both hands still holding the part attempting to leave the table.
 

larry_g

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,889
Location
oregon
I always think when I see a drill press thread, why hasn't anyone come up with a foot switch that you plug your drill press into.........the safety of it alone you would think would drive someone to sell them. Not that they would be hard to build......but anyone who has had a drill press grab a piece and fling it across the shop or had a drill start slipping in the chuck and has to decide to let go of something to turn off the switch when you could lift your foot off the switch with both hands still holding the part attempting to leave the table.

Try this http://www.harborfreight.com/momentary-power-foot-switch-96619.html

lg
no neat sig line
 

Hotz

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2010
Messages
135
Location
south Brazil
I posted this on the "New Tool Arrival" thread yesterday but I thought I would throw it up here as well.

My son and I are a little taller than the average person whom most of the shop equipment is built to fit. I am 6'2" and my son is 6'5" so when standing at a standard height drill press we are always hunched over or feel like we should kneel down. On my last drill press I raised the column 6" after owning it for a few years and putting up with the low chuck/table.

Mike.


I have this problem too! (6 `3 ``) lol
My work table normal 4 `00 ``
As my friend speaks Austrian **I'm out of balance ** lol...
 

V-10 Killer

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
Messages
1,011
Location
Midland, MI
I picked up 1/2"-13 T-nuts for mine just before Christmas, mainly because the underside of the groove was covered on my table. So the eye-nut that seems to come with those clamps wouldn't work. Sadly, the threads cut into the T-nuts are tapered more like an NPT than a SAE thread. Not sure how well they're going to wind up working...
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom