Drill press ID, chuck removal

[slotard]

A few years ago I picked up a drill press on CL for $50, then had to move and gave it to a friend. Well, I just moved back and he's moving so he gave it back to me.

It seems to be a fairly well made drill press, but the bearings are shot. I'm trying to figure out how to take it apart, because there's no slot to drive the chuck out through. It doesn't have any branding etc anywhere on it, but I took pictures of the two labels it does have.

In addition, the chuck says HD YAMA 3-16mm on it. Any ideas on where to get a key for it? It came without one, and I'd prefer spending less money (key) to more (new chuck).

I can't figure out how to get the chuck off - it appears that most drill presses have a slot in the shaft above, but there's no slot here, nor is there any sort of fastener up inside the chuck.


I'm reasonably mechanically inclined, do plenty of work on motorcycles, but have never worked on a drill press or similar before. Looking for any advise on replacing the bearings. I also plan on getting rid of the rust on it, and probably painting it.

Thanks for any help.

 

[koditten]

If you open the lid, is the shaft hollow, allowing you to drive the chuck down and out with a long punch?

 

[balane]

You may want to look up inside the drill chuck with the fingers fully expanded. Is there a screw up in there? I had an older Delta Taiwan drill press which looked kind of like yours that had this type of retention. The screw on mine was left handed threads btw. What I can't remember is if, after I got the screw out, if I just had to knock the drill chuck free or if I had to tighten a 3/8" hex wrench in the chuck and strike it with a hammer because it was threaded on.

 

[slotard]

The shaft isn't hollow from the top and the chuck doesn't have a screw in it like that.

 

[lilredex]

That type of chuck usually bumps off with wedges, look at the chuck, it probably says something like "JT-33", or similar.

See illustration "B" in the first post here...

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57817

 

[slotard]

Well, I managed to remove the quill, followed by a snapring and the outer part of it, so now I've got the shaft that goes up to the pulley, with the lower bearing still on it.

Upper bearing is a 6201 (32x12x10), lower a 7202 (35x15x11). Any suggestions for where to order them? Actually, lower may be a 6202 but I think it makes way more sense to use something designed for axial load there. Would also like to know what grade I need.

Not sure what the best way of getting the bearing off the shaft is.

edit: I don't know if my sizes were done properly there - OD, ID, thickness is the order I stated them in.

 

[slotard]

Anyone on where to get bearings, or what kind of bearings to get?

Also, any suggestions on cleaning up grungy metal? The post it's on isn't too pretty but I think i should look pretty decent with a little work, I'm just not sure as to what the right way is.

 

[WhoWhatNow]

There are a few vendors on amazon that sell bearings. You may get them cheaper at a local industrial supply house, but shipped to your door is always nice.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BBCNEC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[OccupantRJ]

Bearings in general are available at Car Quest. I buy quite often from them for non critical applications. They stock a couple of price points.

 

[PT Doc]

Vxb bearings online could have what you need.

 

[bungy42]

I usually get my bearings from Mcmaster.com.

 

[slotard]

Well, I ordered some bearings, realized there's a local supply house. Still need to clean up the metal.

Any suggestions on what kind of grease to put on things that need grease? I've got wheel bearing grease sitting around so that's easiest, but if there's something else that I can get for a reasonable price I'd like to.

Also, what kind/color paint do people like to use? I know it's nothing special, but I'd prefer it not chip too much. Also anything to keep the steel that's raw from rusting would be appreciated.

 

[jtbinvalrico]

Looking at your original photos.....Starting at the top, the pulley guard and motor case are sheet metal. If the paint is good, keep them as is, or use that as the base for a new color. The column and table look rusty; you want to remove rust from these surfaces without removing so much metal that you affect fit and tolerances. Start by hosing the column and table down with WD40 and hit it with a Scotchbrite pad to see how it comes out.....or how much more aggressive you'll have to get for good results. Other bits, such as the chuck, can be cleaned up with a wire wheel on a bench grinder. For the cast body, wipe it down with some spirits and spray it your favorite Krylon.