Drill press motor

[Plumcrazy]

Greetings,
I have been looking to buy a drill press now for quite some time. I didn't want to buy a new one made with lots of plastic. I have been searching Craigslist, ebay, etc and it seemed that everything I have seen was more than I thought it should be. While coming home from running an errand last weekend I happened across a yard sale. They had a a circa 1975 Craftsman drill press. It appeares to be in great shape. It has been modified by its previous owner to reduce the quill speeds and some sort of reversing switch was added. The son in law of the deceased owner didn't know much about it other than "it needs a motor or you can spin the quill by hand" to get the machine to start. I paid $75.00 and we loaded it in the truck. I damaged the reversing switch on it's ride home as the switch was in pieces inside its housing.
I put the switch back together and plugged the machine in. When I turned the motor on it started spinning very slowly and sounded rather labored. When I hit the reversing switch, "pop" it threw the breaker. I unplugged the machine and decided it was a job for another day. That day has come.
I really don't much about AC motors so I thought I'd ask here
It is a Dayton capacitor start 110/230v 1725 RPM motor. Visually it looks like it's the same vintage as the press but I really don't know. I'm not sure what I should do next. I suspect the reversing switch was not reassembled correctly and is the cause of the breaker opening. The switch wiring is somewhat hardwired to the motor. I haven't disassembled anything yet so I really don't know. I have a healthy respect for electricity but I'm not afraid of it. I was thinking I'd open the motor up and remove the switch and test the motor by itself to eliminate a variable. Are these motors rebuildable or am I better off replacing it? Any other suggestions? Need more info?
Regards
Craig

 

[Todd.Brock]

I am not familiar with that type of switch, but I would start back @ stock. reversing is handy but eliminate the variable to determine motor condition.

 

[BUDSVTX]

I agree with Todd, pull the old switch off and wire the motor per the wiring diagram that is on the motor, then try it and see if it works. The reversing switch involves the start winding and the capicator. If it is not wired correctly, it will just hum and turn slowly. The start capicator may also be bad. If you really want it to reverse, do what I did, brought the motor and switch to a motor shop and they hooked it up for me. Cost me $10.00 and I was able to watch the fellow do it.

BUD

 

[Nowater]

Sounds like a bad capacitor to me.

 

[gungatim]

Sounds like a bad capacitor to me.

me too...either way, sounds like you got a good deal on it for $75 even if you do replace the motor. curious though about what plastic you are concerned about on new DP's? my 2 HF presses are all metal except for the handle knobs, which I replaced with turned rosewood.

 

[Plumcrazy]

Greetings again,
YAHOO!!
I removed the reversing switch and voila! The motor sprang to life. Actually scared the you know what out of me as the motor started as soon as I plugged it into the wall! The main switch apparently was internally stuck in the "ON" position. I took the switch panel off thinking the previous owner had jumped the switch seeing as how his reversing switch had a redundant OFF position. As I was fiddling with it I heard and felt something inside the switch go "click". I excersized the switch a dozen or so times and it seems to be functional now.
I had to reverse the motor leads to get the motor to spin the right direction. The spindle speed reducer is nothing more than another set of pulleys which require the motor to spin the opposite direction. I only have a handful of reverse drill bits so I don't think I'm going to bother with any reversing modifications.
Perhaps I shouldn't have said plastic new machine but IMHO new homeowner grade machines are not built with same quality of materials or construction as the older tools were. Of course older machines are just that, older machines and you really have no idea how much use and abuse they may have been subjected to. You take your chances. This DP still had a nice thin coating of lube on the spindle, the Jacobs chuck is smooth as silk and apart from some spilled white paint and light surface rust looks like it was really well taken care of. Given the choice of a good used older machine vs a new made in who knows where machine personally I'm going for the used one, every time. Just my opinion.
Thanks again folks and it looks like I have some drilling to do
Craig