Drill Press Production Table Question
- Thread starter JG Owens
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Packard V8
Well-known member
You don't.
Usually, on a production table, the workpiece is held in a jig. You see the three or so holes which are not in the Arc of Shame? Often, the jig would bolt through those holes or would have alignment dowels which would drop into those holes.
If you want to bolt down your vise, just drill a couple more holes.
Alternately, use a large vise and just slide it where you want it under the drill point. That's what I do with my Delta 17" with production table.
jack vines
dr_clyde
Well-known member
Very, very rarely do I want my vise fixed to the DP table.
Look into a Float-lock or similar vise if you want a moveable yet anchor-able vise.
I personally just use a cardinal speed vise and slide it around the table.
Look into a Float-lock or similar vise if you want a moveable yet anchor-able vise.
I personally just use a cardinal speed vise and slide it around the table.
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
I have one.. get a nice thick piece of al and bolt that to the table (drill 4 holes), and then drill and tap the plate to attach whatever you want, and it's no big deal if you drill through a bit etc.
With a good vise, you rarely need to bolt it down. I have a DP600 Delta with the production table and no holes. With a 6" Cardinal Speed-Vise I rarely have any sort of issue. In the rare occasions that I do, a c-clamp holds the vise quite well.
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
The bottoms of those tables aren't c clamp friendly in the least.
dr_clyde
Well-known member
Any steel supply house should be able to help you out. You’ll need to find which ones are in your area.
Tell them you want a “drop” or a “random” and tell them what size would be best, that way they can sell you something they have on the floor already and not cut you stock to size, which is usually a more expensive option.
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
Here's mine with a new woodworking table bolted on.
I'll remember that the next time I do it. Seems it hasn't been an issue for me the last few years I've owned it.
I cheat, I bought a drill press with a table that has T slots!
But to the OP, one thing you can do is mount the vise to a piece of flat iron so you can get a c-clamp on it to the edge of the table. You might not need too, but it is an option.
But to the OP, one thing you can do is mount the vise to a piece of flat iron so you can get a c-clamp on it to the edge of the table. You might not need too, but it is an option.
RoninB4
Well-known member
Good suggestions in previous posts. What I usually did was to swivel the vise around so that the back of the vise base was firmly set against the column, thereby preventing rotation if the drill grabbed. This type was quite common in shops (make sure the cam action DID lock the work firmly in)
If you're rather new to using a drill press there's two potential safety concerns. The first is rotation from the drill biting too hard into the workpiece. The second is lift from the workpiece/vise following the drill flutes up and lifting the workpiece and/or the vise off the table. Both can present real safety hazards to anyone nearby. Most often this is caused by an overly aggressive feed and/or breaking through the back side when drilling through the material.
A sub plate on the table for mounting the vise is also a good idea but tapped holes will seldom line up the way you need. Two more safety concerns, do NOT grab the long curls coming out of the hole with your hand. Very easy to get a nasty infected cut from these. Also do NOT leave the chuck key in the chuck. OK the third mention is always wear safety glasses. Good luck.
If you're rather new to using a drill press there's two potential safety concerns. The first is rotation from the drill biting too hard into the workpiece. The second is lift from the workpiece/vise following the drill flutes up and lifting the workpiece and/or the vise off the table. Both can present real safety hazards to anyone nearby. Most often this is caused by an overly aggressive feed and/or breaking through the back side when drilling through the material.
A sub plate on the table for mounting the vise is also a good idea but tapped holes will seldom line up the way you need. Two more safety concerns, do NOT grab the long curls coming out of the hole with your hand. Very easy to get a nasty infected cut from these. Also do NOT leave the chuck key in the chuck. OK the third mention is always wear safety glasses. Good luck.
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RoninB4
Well-known member
-Not sure what you mean, I didn't drill any holes. If you mean holes for a sub-plate then the answer is no. I try to avoid using a hand drill for holes I intend to tap because neither will be square to the plate surface. The drill press table should swing out of the way enough to use without drilling more holes into the table. You're the proud owner of a drill press now, using a hand drill should be your last choice for making holes. A drill press makes holes easier, faster, and more accurate than a hand held drill ever will.
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
Maybe yours is different. Mine has a deep round rim all the way around and wedge shaped webbing running from the edges to the center back. A deep odd shaped c clamp can fit in a couple places if your work happens to be there.
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
Only the holes into the table to mount the plate. Did the plate on the dp or mill.. can't remember. all the clamp studs from the mill fit the dp table.
Holes not being where you want/need is true but not really moot with clamps and the ability to twist the table. I dont bolt the vise down if I need too.. I clamp it.
Or you can just thread in some bolts for dogs, whatever to prevent spinning. Bolt or clamp in a straightedge, etc.
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Mine is the same way....the only thing I need a clamp to do is hold the vise down....not hard at all to find a spot for that to work.
Rarely does anything need to be clamped, and I use it a LOT. The Cardinal vise is heavy enough to deal with most lifting issues, and the handle is long enough to hold on to, countering the majority of rotational drama.
If you want to drill and tap holes towards the sides/edges of your production table use a mag drill to drill the hole and start the tap without moving from each location until final threading. If you are shy about putting tap into drill chuck (and you should be without a lot of experience) use a dead center in the drill chuck to locate the tap directly over each hole just after you drill the tap size through. IF you are going to risk powering a tap in (without a tapping attachment) make sure you have the correct tap drill size, then use a NEW and thus very sharp as in decent quality taper tap to run into a through hole. DO NOT try this with a blind hole, you WILL break the tap. Also be sure to flood with correct cutting oil/gel (for cast iron I prefer Hangsturfers).
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
The tables are thin and have lots of webbing... I wouldn't drill and tap the table.
Terra Nova
Well-known member
Looks like Alro Steel has a facility in Philadelphia. The one near me has a whole store front full of drops and cutoffs; steel, stainless, aluminum, etc. They will sell you any quantity of new material you want as well.
Alro Steel - Jackson, Michigan
Alro Steel - Jackson, Michigan, offers stainless steel, tool steel, carbon steel, alloys, aluminum, brass, bronze, copper, cast iron, and much more. Alro's processing capabilities are unmatched in the industry.
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
Dont have strong feelings either way. I'd be more concerned about condition and then size. If you used coolant, the prod table is set up to handle it.
RTM
Well-known member
Oh, I like that idea, thanks. I rarely bolt my vise down, but have the bolts under the table, so an easy grab.
Work holding options for a drill press
I'm looking down the road to when my Craftsman 100 drill press is done. What is a good all-around work holding option for it? Should I be looking at vintage drill press vises (what's good?) or X-Y tables or ...? I don't want more than about $75-125 in it, but I don't want Chinese **** either.
www.garagejournal.com
vintage drill press hold down clamp STA-PUT | #151475583
tools STA-PUT mfg by Sunset Machinery Service Hayward Calif.fits on a 2-3/4 od post ships to United States only charges are per calculator , I do not charge handling nor for shipping materials 101t
www.worthpoint.com
sherlocktk
Well-known member
I bought a 6 inch Chinese milling vise off of ebay for about $100 shipped. It weights like 45 lbs. this has worked well for all sorts of drilling. All the fancy drill press vises were either a lot of $$ or had no mass. with 45 lbs it never moves unless I move it myself.
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
That looks like a beefier dp... that vise would sag the table on many dp's.
sherlocktk
Well-known member
I was joking with a co worker that my vise weighs more than his drill press. Yes this one is beefy. Its an old buffalo 18. Book states 380 lbs.
380 pounds, wimpy, try 600!
I do like the T-slots in the table and I have a screw clamp, kind of like half a c-clamp the bolts into a T-slot and then screw clamp down the vise if I like. Often I just leave the clamp screwed down in the T-slot and use it for a stop so the vise will not spin.
